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Td5 Dash switch for spotlights


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I have a spare socket on my TD5 center console i would like to put the spotlight switch in, so im thinking i really need to buy a current switch for the console and adapt it. So i basically need and on off switch are there any out of these that will function like this that i could use?

Heated Front screen

Heated rear screen

Rear washer

Rear wiper

i have the the rest but dont see how they could work in an on off mode

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ah right i thought that one was a newer version of the rear one i have got. So i can plumb that in as an on off switch?

by the way western thanks to you and all the guys, i know ive asked allot. ill post pics of the cab once its finished and also going to post in the technical archives of work i carried out.

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that switch is a push on/push off like the rear fog light switch, IIRC it uses the same type of multiplug.

happy to help, you can't post in the Tech Archive, just start a thread in 'members vehicles' to post up your build photo's/write up.

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.

The Defender Front Auxiliary Light Switch, YUG000540LNF, uses the Black connector shell (available from Dingocroft)

YUG000540LNF is a latching on/off switch, but it switches the earth path of a relay, not the live, like a conventional on/off switch.

You have to use the switch as designed if you want the Green back illumination and Orange tell-tale LEDs to work.

It's no great hardship to use it to switch the earth path, it just means that you have to take a wire from the accessory output side of your relay (terminal 87) back to terminal 5 on the switch to light the tell-tale Orange LED.

  • Pin 1 - From the earth side of the Relay (Pin 85)
  • Pin 2 - To Dash Illumination Header (or an adjacent switch)
  • Pin 3 - Not Used (but connected internally to Pin 4)
  • Pin 4 - To Dash Earth Header (or an adjacent switch)
  • Pin 5 - Live from Accessory side of Relay (Pin 87), for 'tell-tale' orange LED

Here's my diagram of how YUG000540LNF should be wired for auxiliary lamps -

YUG000540LNFCircuit.jpg

It's quite easy to modify the switch internally to be a traditional live-switching on/off switch, I can post details/pictures if you're interested.

The above info. was previously posted here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56046

.

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when you talk about switching relays, are these already in place int the fuse boxes or do i have to get after market ones and fit?

After Market I'm afraid. Vehicle wiring products used to sell a relay with an integrated fuse which I thought was a neat idea for things just like this!

Si

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After Market I'm afraid. Vehicle wiring products used to sell a relay with an integrated fuse which I thought was a neat idea for things just like this!

Si

They still do, but they're quite expensive - 30 Amp Fused Relay R30AF - £7.25 + VAT

relay-diag2.gif

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/relays/relays.php

r30af.jpg

Polevolt are a lot cheaper -

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Standard_Mini_Relays.html

Ref: 20015A - 12 volt, 30A relay with integral 15A Fuse. N/O Contacts - £5.40 Inc. VAT

20015A-400.jpg

Ref: 20030A - 12 volt, 30A relay with integral 30A Fuse. N/O Contacts - £5.40 Inc. VAT

20030A-400.jpg

I don't know about the VWP Relays, but I've used the ones from Polevolt and they're 'Ripaults' branded.

.

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are there bays for these ready in the fuse box?

No, there's no provision in the existing Fuse/Relay Boxes, all of the Genuine Accessory Driving Lamp and Auxiliary Wiring Kits use an accessory relay mounted in the battery box.

Instructions for -

STC53208 - Auxiliary Wiring Kit

VUB500890 - Driving Lamp Kit

LR006815 - Driving Lamp Kit

.

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had a check today, and my front fog lights (4 in a bar) are indeed wired up with a relay. but i noticed there are actually two relays, one controls the outer two and the other controls the inner two. is this over kill or the correct procedure

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that's a good way to connect them, each bulb is 55watts so around 8 to 10amp per pair of lights, most vehicle rocker switches will handle 10amps without any problems. as yours are operating relays the dash switches are having a easy life.

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  • 3 years later...

Hi guys,

Complete newbie here and expecting my first LR in couple of weeks.

Have bought some LED roof lights but everywhere I look for a switch (YUG000540LNF?) it costs over £50. This seems like a lot to me...especially when some other LR switches are about a tenner?

Can anyone direct me to a more affordable way (ideally using the same look and feel, rather than Carling style switches)

Any help gratefully received.

Cheers

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Hi guys,

Complete newbie here and expecting my first LR in couple of weeks.

Have bought some LED roof lights but everywhere I look for a switch (YUG000540LNF?) it costs over £50. This seems like a lot to me...especially when some other LR switches are about a tenner?

Can anyone direct me to a more affordable way (ideally using the same look and feel, rather than Carling style switches)

Any help gratefully received.

Cheers

Unfortunately, YUG000540LNF is now ridiculously expensive.

A cheaper alternative is to use the Puma Defender heated seat switch - YUF500150LNF

This costs just over £5 - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YUF500150LNF

YUF500150LNF.jpg

Unlike YUG000540LNF, it's a live-switching switch, so the circuit diagram in my previous post isn't correct for this switch.

It's wired, as follows -

Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply

Pin 2 - Dash illumination

Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth)

Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory (relay)

Pin 5 - Earth

It uses the Black 5-way switch connector, which is available from a couple of sources, including me :)

The switch's 'heated seat' front can be un-clipped and replaced with a modified blank front -

IMG_2307.jpg

Or, the front from another switch, such as the rear fog lamps switch, which is just over £10 -

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YUG000530LNF

YUG000530LNF.jpg

You can't just use another rear fog lamps switch, as this switch doesn't latch, and switches to earth.

.

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I was just coming back to post - but I was only going to re-count what Paul had told me and tell you Paul is the one to speak to.

:)

Also to add - that I'm not sure Paul can provide the heated switch but where he can provide you things (terminals, blocks, etc) I would definitely recommend you get them from him.

No relation or anything - just a happy customer.

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Thanks fellas.

I'd been trawling the archives and thought that I'd seen something about it in the past. Sorry to go over it all again but just want to be sure.

I'm really impressed with all the info and knowledge on here and the willingness to help.

Think I'm gonna love being part of Planet Land Rover!

Cheers

Doug

Ps - any of you guys up here near Crieff??

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys, thanks for the advice.

I've bought the switch and connector, but wonder whether you can advise me on whether I need a particular rating of wire or relay?

My spots are 36 watt each LED and I'll be wiring 2 at the front off one switch linked to headlights.

Thanks again

Doug

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  • 2 months later...

hi, does anyone know if these switches are black or ash grey??

YUF500150LNF

&

YUG000530LNF

Thanks mick

Both of those switches are Ash Grey.

The suffix 'LNF' denotes Ash Grey.

Black switches have the suffix 'PUY' or 'PMA'

The difference between Ash Grey and Black is minimal - but, noticeable when they are side-by-side.

In this picture of my D2's binnacle switches, the top three are Ash Grey, the fuel flap switch at the bottom is Black -

Fuel-Flap-Loom-032S.jpg

.

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  • 5 years later...

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