Jiminy Cricket Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Does anyone have any advice on how best to remidie a realy annoyingly rattly rear slide window on a 110 defender. I am up for easy fix and also complete refit of window - not sure what is required though to solve. I assume the soft "felt" window guides have gone hard and wide - hence the rattle. Can these be bought and easily replaced? Any experiance or advice with this would be appreciated. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Proper solution: Replace felt runners, problem will go away for some years before returning. Bodge solution: Wedge card or something in the runners to stop them rattling. Mega-bodge solution: Silicone them shut. My solution: Replace entire window with 4mm glass cut to shape of hole and single rubber seal like the rear side windows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 I replaced the felt in mine using new track from woolies http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-290-single-track.aspx There was a guide somewhere, you can replace it without removing the windows .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jiminy Cricket Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 I like bodges - however i have already used that one up about a year ago and its returned with avengance - also need windows as use for dog ventalation when parked on occasion. Where can I get the felt from - paddocks etc? Proper solution: Replace felt runners, problem will go away for some years before returning. Bodge solution: Wedge card or something in the runners to stop them rattling. Mega-bodge solution: Silicone them shut. My solution: Replace entire window with 4mm glass cut to shape of hole and single rubber seal like the rear side windows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 I like bodges - however i have already used that one up about a year ago and its returned with avengance - also need windows as use for dog ventalation when parked on occasion. Where can I get the felt from - paddocks etc? click the 'woolies' link in the reply above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 This is the exact runner I used http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1649-window-channel.aspx and instructions I followed were post #27 on here http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/186680-Rear-Sliding-Window-Rattle/page2 Which basically just says.... 1. Remove the window lock so that you can slide back and forth without hangups. 2. Using a flat head driver scrape out old felt from top and side channels - Note make sure you gently pull the felt out from under the part of the channel that is never exposed, you don't want to leave that in the way for later step. 3. Using flat head and pliers remove bits of plastic from bottom channel (not necessary if your bottom plastic runners are still in good shape) - Note make sure you gently pull the hard plastic out from under the window, don't break it off until it is clear. 4. leave your new felt/rubber channel in one long role, start at the top by slowly feeding it from the open side to the fixed side as you move the window back and forth push it along above the window until you can grab the tag end with pliers and pull to the rubber window stop. (do not glue in place). 5. then work it around in one long piece until you get to the bottom side of the sliding window 6. measure and cut the remaining length for what you will need to complete the job. 7. again work it under the slider until you can pull and run to stop. 8. I then pulled both corners out a bit and trimmed the sides where the bend forced it to bunch up so that the glass can seat properly. 9. Glue in place if you wish. I will leave unglued for a while to make sure all is well. my only concern is the lower channel where it should be able to drain rain water away. will see. Like I said it was very easy and appears to work great so far. You should be able to do it with 5 meters and with shipping you should be looking at about 20 pounds for the investment. I ordered 6 just to be safe and before I could measure the scrap my friend ran off with it to fix his rattles (by just replacing the top). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jiminy Cricket Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 Bingo bango! You guys rock - thanks very much....now to work out what sizes I need etc. After that on with the door repairs as per the early post today....hope mine aren't to far gone, but susoect otherwise Cheers, Brooksy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 A rubber (eraser) between the panes makes a good temporary bodge when you are being driven bonkers by them, while you are waiting for the felt to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Where the runner goes around the bend at the corner of the window it might look like it won't stay in, I found that after a few days with the window closed it took the shape and was fine without gluing it. Anyhow I did mine last September and have had no problems since Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 It seems prices have gone up in the last 10 years - this trim is now £7.50/metre! Can anyone confirm how much is needed for a truck cab? It looks like the part the window slides in is 1.9m, as I'm assuming the rubber end part isn't touched at all? Therefore 4m should do both channels? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Maybe it's just me or maybe Truck cab windows are different, but I'm having a nightmare doing this on mine. There seems to be a plastic/metal track that the windows run in and that's too narrow for the Woolies replacement to fit in. I've managed to remove it from the top half after a few hours battling with it, and I'm not looking forward to doing the lower half. Once this has been removed the Woolies trim does seem to slide in reasonably neatly once the window has been split in two - I'm not sure if it will just drop in as that may be easier than trying to get it round the corners. Photos attached of before, partway through, then once I'd figured out it's easier to get a screwdriver down both sides to make it thinner then use another screwdriver to push it from one end and then it pops out eventually. And the state the thing is in now - need to try and smooth it off a bit and give it a coat of paint before I stick it back together again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Can anyone confirm what size the screws are that hold the frame together? Have mangled mine getting them out so would like to replace the ones that have come out. Seem to be 8mm long, thought I may have seen someone mention they were M3 countersunk but I can't seem to find that post again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 And to anyone considering doing this themselves, at this stage my advice is don't do it! It may be possible to bend the plastic/metal track in slightly at the top and bottom just enough to stop it rattling? I wish I'd tried that first before I pulled it all apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 I used the Garrison outfitters kit to reseal/stop my 110's side windows rattling, I thought it mentioned these screws, but all it says is remove & refit, doesn't say what size they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 This might be the thread you thought of, I enlarged the photo of the short screws he used at the frame joints from https://www.modelfixings.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 Thanks Ralph, it looks like they're No. 6 * 1/4" countersunk machine screws but that thread also shows them being run through with a tap and the countersinking not quite going far enough, so I'm not sure if it's the original size? Might get hold of some anyway on the off chance... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 I am pretty sure I fitted my truck cab with the woolies channel without dismantling it. I definitely didn’t dismantle my Puma CSW rear windows to fit the channel as they are factory bonded to the side panels, I just used silicon spray to slide it all in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy_SP Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 The screws are #8-32 UNC - just replaced them on mine! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 Thanks Paddy, I've ended up re-using my old ones having spent ages trying to find replacements that fitted. A local LR specialist sold me two which were the right thread but too long and he told me they were 3BA. Having bought some more 3BA screws I can confirm they are different to what he sold me and don't fit! Worth noting that the piece that holds it together has two screws in the top half and two in the bottom - so to get it apart you only need to unscrew the top or bottom two on each side. Could have saved some time had I known you don't need to try and undo all of them. My window is now back in again with the Woolies trim pieces in there and seems to allow them to slide nicely but not rattle - although I haven't taken it out for a drive yet. 4m of trim was enough with a little left over, and it wasn't too bad to slide in there with plenty of silicone spray. Horrible, horrible job to get the plastic parts out (which in my case I definitely needed to do - there's no way it would fit with it in there) but I'm glad it's done now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.