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Servicing for cold climate


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A group of us are heading to Nordkapp in Febuary next year, whilst I think I am well prepared or at least I will be I thought I would ask the question.

In addition to a complete fluid change, is there anything else I should consider? My alternator and starter are in good condition and I will be taking spares so covered there. I have never had issues with cold starting but its never been that cold! I will have my Eberspacher engine heater fitted so the engine will get a Pre-warm but should I change my glow plugs?

Jason

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I'll be honest, I don't know much about preperations for cold climates.

I most certainly would change the glowplugs, and for good quality ones too. Its an easy job to do normally, doesn't take long to do, and the last thing you want is for them to die just as you start your trip. It will make life easier on the starter I would have thought, which will save you also having to work in the cold to change the starter when it goes!

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  • 3 months later...

- Fluid change

- Fully synthetic motor oils only

- Take fuel filters with you and change one before you go

- Radiator muff ( Best and cheapest way is to buy thin camping mat and cut your radiator muff from that. Measure the width of your radiotor and cut it like a cross shape and it will stay on top of chassis beams. No tools needed to install it as you can push it between the radiator and intercooler from below, This kind of muff is good because it won´t block the intercooler, it won´t ruin the looks of your car and it is cheap) Radiator muff is needed, even though some people say you won´t need it if thermostat is working, but it can be really cold and windy there

- Eberspacher is great, but stresses your battery, so make sure your battery is in good condition ( or install another one for support) and do not run your Eberspacher too long to make sure there is enough power for starter. The problem with Webasto and Eberspacher is that fuel lines in those are really thin and when it gets really cold, like -30 Celsius, even winter quality diesel is not flowing in those fuel lines.

- Front Vent Seals. Make sure they are the rubber ones (MUC4299) not the foam ones like in the newer vehicles.

- Tires. I assume you don´t have studded tires. M+S tires will do but BFG Mud Terrain is very slippery tyre due to hard rubber.

- When it is really cold here in northern Finland. I usually start the car, put the gearbox into second, and transfer box to neutral and release the clutch. Then I go out for a while to clean windows from snow and ice. This operation will warm up the transfer box oils and allow smoother start.

Have a nice trip

D90 Td5

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Fuel filter heater, both coolant and electric wrap in case things gel up because you've got the wrong fuel for the climate at the time, it also allows your coolant heater to pre-heat the fuel making for better running.

If it is going to be really cold add silicone heater pads to the oil pans and the fuel tank so you can keep those from getting too cold or warm them up if things fail to start as expected.

I am currently running B100 down to -20C which is why I've been dealing with these issues.

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Get proper low temp screenwash in the tank before you go too! You'll be able to buy the really hardcore stuff once you're there, but between here and Barley-Jock-Land is a lot of cold, salty, motorway miles!

As you're ex-forces Jason, I'm going to assume you already own the MOD-spec thermal underwear... :ph34r:

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Fuel filter heater, both coolant and electric wrap in case things gel up because you've got the wrong fuel for the climate at the time, it also allows your coolant heater to pre-heat the fuel making for better running.

If it is going to be really cold add silicone heater pads to the oil pans and the fuel tank so you can keep those from getting too cold or warm them up if things fail to start as expected.

I am currently running B100 down to -20C which is why I've been dealing with these issues.

I haven't thought about the Diesel heater, my plan was fill up with Diesel once we had go to Norway keeping just enough on board for the run across Denmark for the ferry to Oslo so I was hoping that as we would use Nordic fuel we shouldn't have too many issues.

Thanks, Jason.

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- Fluid change

- Fully synthetic motor oils only

- Take fuel filters with you and change one before you go

- Radiator muff ( Best and cheapest way is to buy thin camping mat and cut your radiator muff from that. Measure the width of your radiotor and cut it like a cross shape and it will stay on top of chassis beams. No tools needed to install it as you can push it between the radiator and intercooler from below, This kind of muff is good because it won´t block the intercooler, it won´t ruin the looks of your car and it is cheap) Radiator muff is needed, even though some people say you won´t need it if thermostat is working, but it can be really cold and windy there

- Eberspacher is great, but stresses your battery, so make sure your battery is in good condition ( or install another one for support) and do not run your Eberspacher too long to make sure there is enough power for starter. The problem with Webasto and Eberspacher is that fuel lines in those are really thin and when it gets really cold, like -30 Celsius, even winter quality diesel is not flowing in those fuel lines.

- Front Vent Seals. Make sure they are the rubber ones (MUC4299) not the foam ones like in the newer vehicles.

- Tires. I assume you don´t have studded tires. M+S tires will do but BFG Mud Terrain is very slippery tyre due to hard rubber.

- When it is really cold here in northern Finland. I usually start the car, put the gearbox into second, and transfer box to neutral and release the clutch. Then I go out for a while to clean windows from snow and ice. This operation will warm up the transfer box oils and allow smoother start.

Have a nice trip

D90 Td5

Thanks, I think we have most things on that list covered I have three new batteries, nice tip about the getting the gearbox warm.

Jason.

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I was going to say that battery is extremely important. But arcticrover beat me to it.

Make sure you charge it when you have the chance.

Btw I think I saw that you have a dual system so you're quite safe if condition of both batteries is good.

M

Yes I have three batteries two under the seat and a third Aux battery in the rear storage unit, I have also installed a 240 volt system with twin chargers to will be able to top up the batteries when we can.

Jason.

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Can't really add much.

Screenwash, just buy concentrate and mix it no more than 50/50. There is no magic formula in the stuff here.

Make sure your fuel tank is as empty as possible when filling in Oslo, but currently the price of diseasel is around

14Nok/ L :ph34r:

And the £> Nok rate is much better for me going to the UK than you coming to Norway. :i-m_so_happy:

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Screenwash, just buy concentrate and mix it no more than 50/50. There is no magic formula in the stuff here.

I know, but for some reason most of the stuff we buy here in the UK is gnat's pee, which will freeze if you even threaten with a cold morning....

We plan to buy cold climate screen wash when we arrive in Oslo, I also have a hot shot to warm it, clothing is also sorted thanks Barry.

But as Jason's got a 'hot shot' that should cover it!

Matt...Though I could be Barry.

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i have a small torch/cigaret lighter hanging on my key ring

http://www.pro-iroda.com/MJSeries.htm

It helps to get in to the car and to get the fuel gap open. Door locks are just a pain in the ass, when it´s getting really cold, but this helps. Push button type door handles are not designed for cold and snow.

Also cars with hydraulic power steering don´t like in cold conditions, if wheels are turned i to extreme right or left. This can result a power steering failure, as seals let thick oil out easilly if stressed like that.

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Might be a good idea to check the glow plugs. UK temps normally don't test these glow plugs enough to be sure that all four are working ok, however, get to lower temps and you'll soon know if 1 or 2 are not working.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks Steve,

I have recently changed my engine and as part of the engine change and in preparation for this trip I fitted new glow plugs.

Jason.

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What I do every winter before it gets really cold, I lubricate the door locks and the door seals.

For the door locks there is a spray you can buy. Use a lot of it on all door locks.

In a Defender water tends to get trapped in the door seals and this causes the door to get stuck. "Brute force"(as you say in your signature Jason) could damage the seals or one could experience problems closing the doors.

When you "land" in Norway for ex when you stop to purchase screen wash, you could ask personal on gas station what to buy for the door seals.

I find that spray works best. There is also a bottle with a pad on top but its not that easy to make the lubricant enter the holes in the seals. Use a lot of this too.

Turtle Wax has a lot of good products for winter preparation.

You should also buy a plastic scrape to remove the is in the morning.

Really warm gloves and a good brush with a long handle will also help you remove the snow from the truck.

Example:

For door locks: L%C3%A5sspray.jpg

For door seals: Silikonspray.jpg

For ice on windows: isskrapa1.jpg

For ice on windows PLEASE DO NOT buy one like this they are USELESS:619404-jpg.jpg

And for snow on truck this will work very well(but maybe not pink :hysterical: ) : 948-590.jpg

I also allways carry one each of those in my truck: vinteroverall-rejl-vinterfodrad-just-nu-kanonpris!_4cb452307da88.jpg141020-Snow-Light-Car-Spade_product_main.jpg

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How well do the HotShot things work? I was wishing I had one this morning! -8C when I left for work!

If you find your screenwash freezing, add some anti-freeze to it. Dare say the stuff in Norway is better - but it fixes the rubbish we seem to get! This morning, Halfords Concentrate mixed to a concentration it said was good for -40C was freezing before it hit the windscreen!

Si

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Thanks,

One of the guys on the trip is friends with someone who works for the Norwegian equivalent of Halfords (can't remember the name) he is going to meet us in Oslo with our screen wash and other bits.

Jason.

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How well do the HotShot things work? I was wishing I had one this morning! -8C when I left for work!

If you find your screenwash freezing, add some anti-freeze to it. Dare say the stuff in Norway is better - but it fixes the rubbish we seem to get! This morning, Halfords Concentrate mixed to a concentration it said was good for -40C was freezing before it hit the windscreen!

Si

The hotshot is installed inline into the washer pipe, I plan to fit mine onto the heater box.

wp000252n.jpg

Blurb from their web site as to how it works:

When the engine turns on and the voltage rises above 12.9 volts. Five (5) seconds after the vehicle voltage reaches 12.9 volts the unit turns on. The 12.9 volts indicates the engine is running (battery voltage with engine off is usually between 12.4-12.8 volts). The unit then checks the temperature of the washer fluid via an internal sensor in the heating chamber. If the washer fluid is cold, the unit turns on all three heaters for the quickest heating, consuming approximately 50 amps for 30-45 seconds (depending on weather conditions/ambient temperature). The fluid inside the heating chamber will be heated to 134-140 o F (57-60oC). In order to

maintain the washer fluid in this temperature range, the unit will periodically turn on one heater consuming approximately 17 amps. Therefore, there will always be the hot fluid available during driving.

Each time the driver activates the factory installed washer system, heated washer fluid is supplied to the windscreen. The recommended duration of a spray is 3-4 seconds. Three seconds of spray delivers 50-60ml of the washer fluid to the windscreen, which is considered sufficient for one spray. The next portion of the washer fluid will be heated in 15-20 seconds (depending on weather conditions). The best results are achieved if the intervals between sprays are about 20 seconds. The unit continuously monitors the vehicle voltage level. If the voltage drops below 12.7 volts the unit turns off, assuming that the engine was switched off

I got mine from ebay and paid less than £90 although they seem to retail at anything up to £170.

Jason.

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No experience with a hot shot but just wondering if hot water on glass at -30 is a good idea.

And remmber that the temp guide for screenwash isn't teh temperature it works to, but the

temperature down to whic it won't freeze in your screenwash bottle. Once it hits a cold windscreen

that is subjected to considerable windchill as well, most stuff freezes or leaves a film.

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I'll be honest, I don't know much about preperations for cold climates.

I most certainly would change the glowplugs, and for good quality ones too. Its an easy job to do normally, doesn't take long to do, and the last thing you want is for them to die just as you start your trip. It will make life easier on the starter I would have thought, which will save you also having to work in the cold to change the starter when it goes!

Would you consider BERU or DELPHI to be the quality Glow plugs - I have been looking around since this post and there is a wide price range for ETC8847. (I have a Disco 200tdi in my 90)

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