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Rear Winches


BoatBuoy

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After seeing Robs rear winch in action, I'd like to fit one to my truck just for fun. I'm thinking that I don't want it to occupy too much of the load space, since I use that for the tescos run and such like. So what are the options open?

I'm only looking at fitting a cheapo winch or something fifth-hand husky'esk. I'm not in the market for an 8274 or such. So it can either be mounted just by the mid bulkhead, (I'm also thinking hard top one day, so if it is load bed mounted, it needs to get through the rear door) or more likely somewhere in the depths of the chassis. Fabrication is not my strong point, but I know a good welder, and the rear cross member is a tad ropey so might be an ideal time to get two things done at the same time.

If anyone wants to post pictures and instructions, feel free! This is more just a drawing board then a reality at the moment, so no need for too much effort! Anyway, gotta sort the engine out at some point too!

Cheers muchly,

Keef.

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Although mine is a (PTO driven) rear Milemarker, its dimensionally similar to mainly electrics, both I and Jon W (M8000) have done a rear winch so that

1) the rear crossmember stays intact useful for towbars etc

2) does not encroach into load area - its under front mounted

3) Rope just clears between top of crossmember and bottom of floor

Nige

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Nigel's looks like it would require a lot less fabrication - not to mention welding - than mine!

Someone (Tony?) used a TD5 rear tank protector (I think) which just bolts in place and looks very similar to Nigels.

On mine, the middle of the crossmember was rotten as a carrot and so I combined replacing that bit with making a winch tray.

I'll see if I can find the photos!

Si

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as Mark said i have one fitted to my truck cab. its prob worth searching on the old LRE forum, def site for rear winch setups there a wealth of info there from various topics and replies i had when i was contemplating the setup for mine about a year ago.

don't go cheap winch

go Husky - so unfashionable now that they are cheaper.

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Cheers for the info. Well I think the way forward is the Southdown guard and a bit of welding (A la Will Warne Style!). I like the way Nige's comes over the top of the rear x-member. That'd not be possible with a husky as you mounted the MM on its side I think.

I want to run string on the back rather than wire, so I'm guessing Husky rather than cheapo, or are there any other winches such as that that you can let out on with out them getting hot, that are a sensible price s/h?

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Husky is a sure good bet, and all I did with the MM was to rotate the motor,

However the winch is mounted back to front, the cable still comes in the same drum rotation, but feeds in the top not the bottom.

Ok, prob your going eh ?

A winch on front on LR. Power in means cable comes in and collects under the drum as it rotates.

Now, take Cable and pull it through to an imaginary point through the back end of thevechile, enage drive, cable still comes onto drim and powers in the same roateion, except the cable appears to be now on the TOP on the drum...

This means you can sink the drum lower.... under the floor

Similarly done on the M8000 Jon W has fitted - its a matter now for the tape measure as to if you can or not !

Nige

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Keef, the jobs not too bad. I did most of mine in 2 days using a big workshop; having use of a plasma cutter makes life a lot easier for this sort of theng. If you're not 100% happy with your welding, don't do it. I used 5mm plate for the mount which is also braced with some 3mm wall thickness box section. Get the Southdown gaurd, its expensive but worth it. If you want any photos, let me know.

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Stupid question time..... :ph34r:

Is there any why the winch cant sit direct onto the guard Ie...at a slight angle...other than oil levels etc

it seems a lot of hassle to lift mine around 11/2 at the most at the back, when I stick it back underneath to allow the spare to fit in the rear tub ???

waits for sounds of laughter....... :P:lol:

someone had to ask :ph34r::blink::rolleyes:

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Will,

I have no rear cross member as such..its a 10mm thick U section steel, so where the plama passes through is only 10mm ( No Nige did'nt do it ! :P )

as for the angle onto the fairlead its "nearly" always going to be pulling on the bottom is'nt it ? dependant on angle of pull of course ?? :unsure:

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Cheers much will. Don't worry, I know my limitations, and I won't be welding it. Got a welder and plasma cutter round at Mid Cornwall4x4 so I'll probably get it done there when the time comes. I bet there is some weight in that setup though!

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These all look fantastic for the 90's has anyone seen a tidy install for a crew cab 110 with the fuel tank still in the rear? I would rather not use a bulkhead or pick up mount so was thinking of going slightly further forward underfloor, but this would put the winch a long way forward or possibly a similar location to the ibex and positioning it under the rear seats.

I theory I guess it would be possible to mount it under the rear seats bellow the floor and run the plamsa over the rear tank?

What are anyones thoughts?

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Not that difficult, Have done one for a customer.

Remove the center part of the cross member make a skeleton frame and mount the winch in this.

Whole thing only protrudes 100mm further than standard and only the center part.

This means that only a extended tow hitch need be used and the fuel tank stays in place.

Hope that helps.

Just looking at all the rear winch Builds featured here, and yes they are very nice,

But with three massive problems....

A: You can not see the winch drum, so bunching becomes an issue.

B: You can not clean winch properly without removing it from the car

C: You have cut a hole in what was reasonably water tight vehicle.

All that seems a little strange to me, But then i never was normal ;):P

My advice to anyone fitting a rear winch keep it visable and keep it simple.

Would post photo's, but am completely useless at this computor thing :blink:

Hope you can make some use of that

Jim :)

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