BLACK CAB Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Dose anybody know if it is possible to remove the Wiper motor cable and turn the Crank Gears though 180 deg, to an unworn section of the mechanism and then refit the cable. Not normally this tight but have spent all my cash on sorting other problems, so need to last a bit longer. Thanks Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Yes, first remove the wiper blades & arms from the driveshafts [aka wheelboxes], mark these at the 12 o'clock position so you know where the started from, the remove the left end of dash to gain access to the motor, unplug the electrical connector & earth wire, remove the retainer strap & screw, then unscrew the tube nut & lower the motor & pull it out of the vehicle the drive cable for the wipers will come with it, as you do this the driveshafts will rotate as the cable passes under their gears & put it on a dry/clean surface, ready for refit, check the driveshafts to see where your marks are, & re-orintate ready for refit of the motor/drive cable, when you've put the motor back in check again to see where your marks are, hopefully at the 6o'clock position, if not try again until they are where you want them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACK CAB Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 Thanks Western This has proved very successful , with most of the free play gone & some of the noise. I rotated the shafts 180 deg's but also removed the backplate from the motor, adjusted up the backlash in the motor wormgear before turning the cable block over. So the cable is now also running on the unworn side. Well worth doing if your wipers seem to have a mind of their own. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Good thread for the tech archve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Thanks WesternThis has proved very successful , with most of the free play gone & some of the noise. I rotated the shafts 180 deg's but also removed the backplate from the motor, adjusted up the backlash in the motor wormgear before turning the cable block over. So the cable is now also running on the unworn side. Well worth doing if your wipers seem to have a mind of their own. Rod How do you adjust the backlash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACK CAB Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 The backlash on the motors worm-gear is adjusted by lock nut and slotted screw. This is in line with the worm-gear and at 90 degs to the cable. The easiest way to understand this is with the motors back plate removed. Don’t over do things as you will lock it up tight , there needs to be a small working clearance. Sorry I didn’t take any pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Seconding Trev - for the tech archive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Yes, Tech archive please... Something I have to do real soon to get rid of my severe clicking noise and different swing lengths.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 I'll leave a copy here so others can add to it, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 I've been through this today and taken a few pics to build on the thread for anyone else who may need to do this. Sloppy wipers positioning, clicking and irregular swing a problem for you... Remove Wiper blades and arms. Note the current position of the splines... You are going to need to remove the Land Rover badge and remove the screw, and any other screw you find in the general area !!! (Under LR badge, two on top of lower dash and door hinge cover and two below dash) When you have removed all the coverd area you should see something like this.. Remove the connecting wires, slide the black rubber cover up to reveal a locking nut and unscrew the two larger screws that secure the motor to the bulkhead... When free, loosen the large nut at the top of the motor and the motor should separate from the drive cable tub Lay motor and cable on a flat surface. Go to the splines and rotate them through 180 degrees. (Half way round) You can just re-inster the cable and re-fit at this point if you like... Or, open up the motor unit, ease off the circular clip and remove the drive shaft and cable from the motor.. (I was a bit naughty and used the bonnet.. Not nearly clean enough but nearby !) Motor with cable removed.. I turned the cable over on the drive shaft and re-inserted the cable and shaft into the motor housing.. It was then a case of sliding the cable back into the tube, affix the motor by tightening the nut again and checking that the splines were in a different place to when I started !! (Luckily enough they were...) At this point I believe the manuals say "Re-fitting is the reverse of removal" (Don't forget to re-connect the earth on one of the motor/bulkhead screws) I'd advise a quick test of the mechanism before you secure the dash in place again. If you have any questions, please feel free to respond here or send me a PM.. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACK CAB Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 Neil this is great, just what I should have done, I will try to take photos in future . Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopperman Posted May 17, 2008 Share Posted May 17, 2008 I'll leave a copy here so others can add to it, I did all this work, it took me 18 mins which included taking off and refitting wiper adapter and trim as i`d forgotten to replace speaker cable Does anybody know what the 20/60/60/30 amp fuses run to under the bonnet nearside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Great info guys,this works! Unfortunately for me when i was undoing the nut where the shaft goes into the motor,I found it really stiff,I applied some bicep power of which i have a fair amount (much to my detriment) i crimped the driveshaft tube aaaaarrrrhhhh!!!! learning curve..be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suffolk Defender Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 so my replacement gear turned up today, followed the above instructions.... When testing the wipers, i found they were now stopping in the up position and not down at the base of the wind screen. I recall now looking at the 2 gears when i had it all apart that they were identical except for a plastic lump on the underside of the gear. From memory i also noticed a push switch in the section where the gear inserts. The 2 gears have this plastic lump in different positions. Well i thought what could that be..... So i reassembled ensuring the gear matched the position the old one was in. Before getting covered in grease again i thought i would share my experience. Does the gear need rotating? it seems that the position of that lump under the gear is what needs to match as i imagine now(with hindsight) that the lump hits a switch that cuts the motor and reverses the motion. My brain hurts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 When I do this I attach a zip tie to the spindles, cut the ties leaving a flag maybe an inch long. I find tHis is an easier reference for when you stick it all together later HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 so my replacement gear turned up today, followed the above instructions.... When testing the wipers, i found they were now stopping in the up position and not down at the base of the wind screen. I recall now looking at the 2 gears when i had it all apart that they were identical except for a plastic lump on the underside of the gear. From memory i also noticed a push switch in the section where the gear inserts. The 2 gears have this plastic lump in different positions. Well i thought what could that be..... So i reassembled ensuring the gear matched the position the old one was in. Before getting covered in grease again i thought i would share my experience. Does the gear need rotating? it seems that the position of that lump under the gear is what needs to match as i imagine now(with hindsight) that the lump hits a switch that cuts the motor and reverses the motion. My brain hurts... the 'bump' can be prised off the gear & repostioned to the other set of holes to set the park position. the 'push in switch' is the park switch that pin rides up the bump to tell motor to switch off & park the arms/blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suffolk Defender Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 the 'bump' can be prised off the gear & repostioned to the other set of holes to set the park position. the 'push in switch' is the park switch that pin rides up the bump to tell motor to switch off & park the arms/blades. So i just found out when attempting again! You beat me to replying. I left the casing off and tightened the earth up to the bulk head so i could see how the gear worked, for some reason i had it in my head that the gear rotated forwards and backwards I realised that the bump on the back of the gear was in the wrong place for it work how it was then saw it could be removed and re-positioned on the opposite side of the gear. Well that was what i call a learning curve! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 glad you got it sorted. always a good day when something new is learnt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 I think it is a bit easier to adjust the end float when the wipers are running, I tend to do it too tight when they are stopped. To do it running, I run the wipers and tighten the screw till they slow, then back it out a touch beyond where they pick up to full speed. If you go too far out it sounds noisier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ras807 Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 What a brilliant post made it so simple for me this morning and all works well now What a great forum with so much info on Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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