Mudmonkey Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Dim-dip is unlikely to be fitted to a ROW-spec loom as it was a UK oddity. Then again anything is possible, it was ruled non-compliant by the EU in the nineties sometime I think but LR continued to fit it well into the Td5 era! Td5 era? My puma came with dim-dip! Would love to know land rover's reason for keeping it. As for the 10as immobilisation, some discovery 1s did away with the spider for immobilisation and all was done via the 10as unit. I know my auto disco is wired this way. May be worth looking up the immob pages for the disco on rave and cross referencing to your loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudmonkey Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Just had a quick look at the disco diagram. On a spider equipped 300tdi. Pin 15 of the 10as is unused. Pin 14 goes to the spider unit. On an EDC 300tdi without spider. Pin 15 of the 10as goes to the ECU. Pin 14 is unused. You should be able to work it all out from tracing pin 14 and 15 on the 10as plug? My thinking is you'll have to use a spider as the EDC 300tdi and TD5s ECU must have the immob code matched with the 10as? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Cheers, will take a look next time the loon is out of its box fighting the TD5 loom at the moment, all untaped/unwrapped and as it was a bit hacked about I've removed most of the cut wires from the entire loom and identified everything that I need to remove - quite how I do that and then get everything through the bulkhead grommets etc on the new loom I'm less sure of now though after looking at it.... Will continue with it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I've got full td5 XS looms in my 200tdi 90. The 10as does the immobiliser via ignition pick-up coil and fob transponder, albeit it only inhibits the starter on the 200 (limited electronics). I've adapted the td5 engine loom to run the engine adding the relevant feeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Ben, does your open loom have surplus air con wiring you need rid of? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Cheers Scotts90 good to know. Mo - Yes it will do, I'm basically pulling out anything I don't need (wiring of various colour codes always comes in handy as well) so that I can get to the bits I do need more easily, I'm at the stage now though that I need to remove wires from plugs (that have been identified etc) but I've spent a couple of hours tonight searching everywhere for my precision/jewellers screwdrivers with no luck so I'll need to go and buy some more before I can do much more - anyway one of the plugs I had started messing with (secondary lock removed ready but then lack of screwdrivers stopped me) and got a bit stuck was the air con plug, no idea where the feed etc for that are yet as I hadn't planned on keeping it but I can have a go at tracing and removing nicely if needed - basically anything to this plug?: Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Morning Ben, I can take a look at rave tonight and see where it goes. As I have no air con wiring, anything you can salvage, especially plugs, is welcome Happy to contribute, naturally. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Hi Mo, Cheers, 2 of the wires go to the ECU plug on the TD5 loom- they are pulled out and coiled with the plug already (not sure where they would go on a TDI though but I could compare the aircon plug on my ROW loom if needed) the pin numbers are the same for TDI, colour code is different though for those 2. then it just looks as if theres one earth and one fed from the passenger fusebox and another wire (WG) which disappears with all of the other WG wires ignition/switched feed I guess? will have to trace some more, anyway once I get some more screwdrivers or find mine I will pull the wiring out complete with terminals as far as I can at least then you can just clip the terminals into your fusebox and splice the earth in etc. Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 ordered a set of screwdrivers and a pair of the Durite terminal release tools so hopefully I can continue once they arrive in a couple of days all being well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 You're a diamond, Ben. Let me know when you're ready. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Ben, a couple of pics to illustrate the wiring connectors on my air con fascia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Hi Mo, I have the brown plug, don't have the 3 way one though, I don't remember seeing it on the ROW loom either, will trace the brown plug back anyway and remove as much as I can Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 ok traced the brown plug wires WG - to a blue header splice behind the centre console (with all the other WG wires fed from it seems F15 (5A fuse feeding various relays and switches) B - to an earth header splice in the engine bay (only perhaps 10" in so must bolt to the bulkhead) NP - goes to the 30A fuse in the main fusebox the others, YS and PB went to the ECU under the seat theres then another fuse marked for A/C (20A) which goes to the plug which connects to the engine harness Those two fuses are marked F28 and F29 and seem to be for the blower motor and cooling fan relays according to rave. I guess the wiring and relays for the compressor clutch are all on the engine harness (I will take a look at the TD5 engine harness I have in the basement later and see if I have those) Hopefully your fusebox already has the feed from the underseat fusebox onto those 2 A/C fuses as it seems to be shared with the interior lighting and the hazards I've tagged everything and once I can remove the terminals rfom teh various splices/fusebox I'll take a quick photo of where the wires go before pulling it all out. edit: just checked and no A/C on my engine harness sorry. Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Thanks for looking Ben I'll see if i can track down an air con engine harness on ebay perhaps. I have a post 2002 bulkhead and dash so the the wiring should be compatible. Hopefully air con is a step closer Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Hi Mo new screwdrivers and tools arrived today, I'm having trouble getting one of the fuse terminals out at the mo and I'm totally stuck on how to remove the terminals from both the male and female version of this plug: I've clipped the secondary lock over and still really can't see what is needed: Once I can figure that out I can get your A/C bits removed. Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Ben, let me ask a man who will know. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Hi Mo,Here are the photos showing where each connection to the brown plug goes, the connection to the engine harness plug goes straight to the fusebox and isn't connected to the brown plug at all but is A/C related (guess it provides power to the conmpressor clutch etc) I've removed the brown plug and all wires intact and labelled. I had already cut the ECU plug off before you asked about the A/C plug though, but these will obviously route somewhere else on a TDi anyway, they were cut to within about 2" of the ECU plug so theres plenty of length to get anywhere needed So its just that connection to the engine plug I'm having trouble with - let me know what you find out Earth header inside engine bay: Fuse box as marked by the snowflake / A/C symbol: Blue header behind centre console: Plug to Engine harness which is directly connected to the 20A fuse, I guess worst case if I can't get this out I can cut it if you can get the correct terminals (last resort though) And the removed plug with terminals tagged: CheersBen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Sterling work Ben, Paulmc will be along presently with some photos of how to remove the terminals from the engine harness plug. Pm me what I owe you and I'll get it sorted. Cheers Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 To release the terminals from the BMW sealed 4-way connector between the main harness and engine harness - The connector housing has a sliding lock plate on it's front, once this is slid open, the terminals can be pushed out from the front to the rear (they can be quite resistant to moving) – don’t pull on the cable, as it will probably pull it out of the terminal.Locked (lock-plate slid over to the left) – Opened (lock-plate slid over to the right) – If you do damage any of the terminals or wire seals on these connectors - then, I do have some replacements. TD5/Puma fuse box terminal blocks These pictures show the secondary terminal locks, which just push through the terminal block (it makes it easier, if you unclip the terminal block from the fuse board first) - Secondary terminal lock removed - This picture shows the holes on the front of the terminal block that you should push a couple of jeweller's screwdrivers, or the 2-pronged terminal release tool into to release the terminals (they can be quite tricky to release) - This picture of a removed terminal, shows the tangs that must be depressed to release the terminal - If you need to add or replace terminals in this type of fuse box - then, I have compatible terminals. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Cheers Paul Simple enough, thought there must have been some tabs or whatever but easier than expected. Mo All removed ready then will send you a PM in a mo Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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