IanT90 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 In the last 2 days I have started to get a problem with the oil warning light flickering on and off. Sometimes its a faint flicker sometimes gets bright then diminishes. I can get spells when driving and see nothing then other periods its constantly flickering. First time I saw it I checked the oil. Although I did change the oil filter etc in December so know I had plenty in I also did a recent cylinder head at the start of this year checked it then and went to Scotland in February checked it then. I was 99% certain I had enough oil in so not overly concerned. So yesterday when it first happened I took off the oil sensor plug cleaned it and re-fitted, in the mean time I ordered a replacement and glad I did as the flickering was back again today. Being a relative newcomer to the 300TDI engine I am just following my instinct here : Check oil, then pressure switch. If its not the switch what's my next ? besides checking wiring for a possible fault. Anyone have any ideas is it a common fault or isolated? Is it something minor or the start of something big and expensive? Maybe on a separate matter or could be related, I have noticed the engine sounds noisy when I start up, like tappets then when I have been driving for about 10 minutes it seems to disappear checked the tappets they are okay and in tolerance. Thought it might be just cold start effect until oil circulates around engine, although there seemed plenty of oil about (ie not dry) in the rocker when I checked the tappets. Any advice or suggestions much appreciated. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrr47 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Sounds like the pressure switch, they do wear out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Hope so but reading that oil pump gears eventually need replacing bigger job so may replace cam belt and pulley's plus water pump at same time. I usually attempt most jobs myself being an armature DIY mechanic, but don't fancy this job. Heard few tales on the forum of timing being out after doing the job and struggling to get vehicle started again. I can get all the parts for £140 just how much I would get charged labour. Was planning to do the swivel replacement on near side including seals and bearings etc but might have to postpone that job again. Hope your right and it is just a faulty switch. Regards Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Could also be the wire to the sensor-switch has been rubbing against some part of the engine and the insulation has worn through so the copper inner core is exposed and is intermittently touching against something earthed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Checked the wire already it doesn't seem worn or earthing at any point in the engine ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostumpy Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 put a new switch in, there cheap enough. Mine did this when I first got it, with 90k on the clock. Swapped the switch, and no more illuminations, now on 155k. (mines a 300tdi as well) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I had the same a few years ago. It was the pressure switch. Change it and go from there, I wouldn't start worrying untill you know its not that or the wiring though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 If you run it till its hot and at above tick over then let it sit at tick over. If its low pressure it will show up then and the light would stay on as the oil is hot. The hotter the oil the thinner it is and the lower the pressure will be achived. If the light stays out at tick over your oil pressure should be good and just a dodgie switch. If switch flickers when hot or cold I would say its the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Changed the oil pressure switch problem still there :-( If anything it appears to be getting worse now light gets brighter when accelerating diminishes when I idle ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Just took it for a run about a mile or so oil should be warmish as I was out earlier this morning after and during the problem still there. The light is faint (can hardly see it) at tick over and gets gets brighter when I accelerate (not steady it flickers but does not stay on. That's with a new switch I just fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 The light is normally on or off, ok it can flicker, and you'd expect it to be at its worst at warm tickover as Frax says. If you have a meter, remove the lead from the switch & try checking resistance to ground of the switch tag rather than relying on the instrument light - the lead could well be shorting somewhere. Assuming the new switch is OK( it didn't come in a blue box?) if you have signs of the switch closing at tickover it has to be time to remove the sump & look at bearings, relief valve and the strainer etc (there is I think an O ring in the mount). Or get a pressure gauge and see what that says. If the switch opens and stays open at tickover you are looking for a wiring fault. Clatteriness isn't good though. Another tack if you suspect internal problems is to remove the oil filter and empty it into filter paper, and look for glittery particles. I'd track it sooner rather than later and don't drive it meanwhile because if the light is lying you wouldn't know if you did get a problem, and if it isn't you do have a problem and it is likely to end in a bang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks that's really cheered me up, since October last year replaced cylinder head and gaskets and the rocker assembly. Done a full service replaced oil feeder pipes to inter-cooler, cyclone and oil breather pipe. When I changed the oil back in December the old oil looked okay and while sump was off visually the bearings looked okay too. Don't have a meter unfortunately so that out the question. Engine noise sounds more like tappets and comes from the head than the block. Could it be a problem with the oil pressure relief switch ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Hi Ian Get hold of a pressure gauge - I had a Dico years ago and this happen to it, phoned Land Rover and they said it would be the switch as the oil pumps did not go wrong as they sit in the sump. Changed the switch and the light still flickered. Got a pressure gauge and when cold was at 30 psi but when hot and just ticking over it was down to 7 psi. Saying that I think it sound more like a wiring fault but you need to be sure. If you dont have a meter or a gauge a garage should be able to check the switch in about 5 min so should not cost a lot. Checking the switch how ever does not tell you what oil pressure you have. I fited a gauge to my Defender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 This is getting beyond the scope of my abilities think I need to get some professional help before as my learned friend said "it goes bang". Can anyone recommend a reputable mechanic specialising in defenders in my area. Live in North West in between Wigan Warrington and St Helens ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 remove the wire from the switch and make sure it can't touch to earth . Start it and if the light comes on its def wiring related .If not , Get a cheapo pressure gauge together and plumb in for a true reading . You could use one off a foot pump for example , they are usually BSP thread and a length of pipe and a few fittings should hook it up as a temp test gauge . My 200Tdi rattles from the top end - tappets - when started from cold even though the oil light goes out and I have 50psi within 2 sec on the oil press gauge hth Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Landranger at Atherton have been ok for me, they have some other branches so there may be one nearer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Hope so but reading that oil pump gears eventually need replacing bigger job so may replace cam belt and pulley's plus water pump at same time. I usually attempt most jobs myself being an armature DIY mechanic, but don't fancy this job. Heard few tales on the forum of timing being out after doing the job and struggling to get vehicle started again. Changing the timing belt isn't very hard, but you need some special tools (such as a beam-type torque wrench, crank locking tool to allow you to take the crank damper bolt off and put it back on, timing pins for the injectin pump pulley and the flywheel). Difflock.com has a really good write-up on how to change the belt out - you should at least read it before deciding to take the car to a garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 Thanks for advice I will check out Land ranger at Atherton. I had to run my son to school this morning about a 4 mile round trip, funny enough it wasn't as bad today faint flicker occasionally but at low revs this time. The majority of the Journey it was okay and stayed off ! even at high revs. That was with the oil warmed up too ? I have read up and watched videos for replacing the timing belt and at push would consider attempting that job, but taking front crank cover off and replacing the oil pump gears too don't fancy it (wimping out a bit). May as well get timing belt, oil pump gears and water pump done at same time and take it to someone who knows what they are doing. After market parts not dear costed them at around £140 don't know what I would get charged for labour ? Only concern is it's not the oil pump gears that's worn ? and loosing oil pressure somewhere else on the engine ? Will remove the lead today and dive around to see if light comes on as suggested, kicking myself for not thinking of that obvious one myself. Thanks again for all the advice keep you posted on any developments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 Great news well for me anyway disconnected the lead as suggested by Steve B and took it for a drive. Guess what the light flickered so its looking like a wiring fault what a relief. That's something I can sort out thanks guy's for all the advice and support. Now I can get on with my next big job replacing the swivels, seals, bearings etc that are driving my wife mad (oil leaks on the drive ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Good to see its only the light and you can now relax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 :i-m_so_happy:good to hear . I'd check the wiring under the airfilter mount , a common spot for chafing problems and a lot cheaper than an oil pump eh cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEJ Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 Had the exact same oil pressure light flicker symptoms on my Isuzu Rodeo 3.0. Changed oil, filters, pressure switch and was about to go to the big end bearings before finding this thread on google. Unplugged the pressure switch and it continued to behave in the same way which was a massive relief and time saver. Just wanted to post this as a huge thank you to everyone that commented around this issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.