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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Without pictures it didn't happen so...... Mike
  2. 3 points
    @Peaklander I drew a picture to help visualise how it works: The batteries are two buckets of electrons which are joined by the split charge. The alternator pours current in to the system, it just tries to maintain it's target voltage (level in the pipe) and doesn't know anything about the battery/batteries connected etc. When the split charge joins the two you have two different levels, this is hopefully fairly obviously going to result in some charge flowing out of the starter battery into the leisure battery to try to equalise the level, while the alternator just sees the overall level change and pumps what it can into the system. The starter battery can source a large current but a true leisure battery may not be able to receive it (hence the skinny pipe, representing internal resistance and the loss in the split-charge system), and as the voltage rises the flow will drop (less potential difference equals fewer amps into the load) which is why you'll rarely see much more than 10A flowing into a battery after the first couple of minutes (I even measured it once), so a 100A alternator is largely pointless unless you need 100A to run things while the car is on the move - which modern vehicles do (electric windows, seats, HVAC, PTC heaters, etc.) or if you're winching. Also, because there's only so much charge (current) a battery can take it should make sense that there's only so fast you can pour water into the pipe before it overflows, even if the levels in the batteries aren't to the top. As the voltage comes up, the current drops, this is why modern "smart" alternators and "smart" chargers can ramp the voltage up to 16 or 18v to push more charge in quickly - but obviously you need to KNOW the battery can take it (modern cars use a lot of AGM batteries designed for this) and that the thing doing the charging is suited to the battery type and not just trying to start a fire. Because of this drop of current as the battery reaches full charge, voltage drop in wiring etc. it can take a long time to get that final 10% into the battery - on short journeys you may never get there. My measurements, minimal as they were, showed it took at least 30 mins for the charging current to drop off. If you badly discharge your battery (beyond its rated capacity) you damage it and decrease its capacity and its ability to accept charge - like pinching the pipe on the "split charge". A smart charger can try to recover this by de-sulphation (sp?f?) to literally knock deposits off the battery plates with jolts of power, I've seen it work but it's never 100%. We bought the odd battery from Enersys - and yes, if these went below their rated safe limit they would ALL be scrapped & replaced, no question;
  3. 2 points
    Plates 187x111 6mm plate center hole is 58mm diameter 56mm to center from one edge . hole centres for mounting to flange are 61mm and 51 mm center to center , as below thought it might be easier to draw it hahaha minds not working right this morning. the bar is 40x10 flat , I bolted them together so it’s a bit more versatile, hope this helps .
  4. 2 points
    Having waded through hundreds of web pages I came across a sensible site that said you need an intelligent dc to dc battery charger, and having done some more surfing found this! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ring-RSCDC30-DC-To-DC-Smart-Battery-Charger-30amp/153013066455?epid=28017010179&hash=item23a04a1ad7:g:Rp8AAOSwqaJaYNLx A wee bit cheaper than the Ctec unit, you can charge all battery types from the cars alternator / battery and it has a solar panel inlet too!! And if you're thinking it might not be as good as the Ctec.. buy 2 and have a spare, it's still cheaper that the Ctec!!
  5. 2 points
    As soon as the battery people told me that my aux wasn’t getting fully charged on my split charge connection, I bought a Ctek charger. I got the extra little socket with rings on the end and wired it permanently to the aux with the socket poking out under the passenger seat. Whenever I could I connected the charger, using a mains hookup at campsites but otherwise at home. The battery responded well. Then I added a 100W panel and used the Ctek controller and never looked back. The move from coolbox to fridge, CFX35W was an enormous step (in £ too) but last year in Ireland with 4/5 of the trip in rain and cloud we never hooked up to the mains at all and the batteries have been fully charged and hold up well.
  6. 2 points
    Hi all , this is a sub post of my other thread Ian's 90 300tdi Rebuild and is about my custom dash , the idea is to turn this pile of 1.2mm steel which cost the massive amount of £12.14p from work , and this which I had bent up for the top of the dash into something like this This is a rough sketch and as you can see there is a glove box .I'm fitting an auto box to the project so I'll need to make a custom center bit which will be made once everything's fitted and I can see better where everything goes , I know Ashcroft do one but I like a challenge and would rather save £250 . I'm also going to try and upgrade the wiper system using a disco 1/2 one . 1st test fit for the camera Steve200tdi I think has done this to his racer ( and project binky inspired ) so should be possible with a bit of tweaking , as the disco fitting is wider than the Defender hole spacing and need to incorporate the longer spindles from the wheel boxes . Also I'm going to try to modify the heater system , either with a new unit but as the standard Defender unit is okay was thinking maybe upgrade the blower to a 3 speed jobbie , but either way it will be altered so that the hot air comes into the cabin through 1 pipe which will then split and go to the windscreen and side window vents . And finally I'm thinking of upgrading the electrics and using a disco TD5 fuse box if possible , don't know whether it's possible with the difference of an ecu but I only want the fuse box so I would imagine it could be made to work . Why a disco TD5 one ? because it cost me £10 off ebay ,so nothing lost and all the fuses and relays are wired together in the fuse box by a printed circuit board so cutting down on the amount of wires . Why do all this some may ask ? I like a challenge and I'm a bit mad some times but what ever you think of what I'll be trying to do pop back for a read every now and then , even if it's to see me make a complete a##e of myself and fall flat on my face trying I promise it will be fun . cheers Ian
  7. 2 points
    At risk of invoking the forum bogeyman...would switching to a coiler chassis not immediately mean you've got to get it through an IVA? Unless you can find one that was provable already converted before SVA/IVA came in.
  8. 2 points
    Some (egg-on-face) feed back We wanted to replace the vacuum pump on the system on Saturday. Whilst looking around the engine bay, my son asked : "What does this pipe do ?" It was the vacuum pipe from the vacuum pump going to the booster. The pipe was pulled off, and sat right in front of the booster inlet, about 5mm from it Connected the pipe, and the brakes were 100% 😎 We used the old method, pump brake pedal, hold, open bleed nipple to allow air/brake fluid to escape, close bleed nipple
  9. 2 points
    The load carrying weight of the wheel should be stamped / cast on the inside face of the rim - i.e. visible if you lie down and crawl under rather than take the tyre off. I had similar looking rims on my 110 station wagon when I bought it, and they are rated to 650kg each, which was well below the maximum permitted axle weights. I am not near my 110 just now, but remember the max permitted axle weight being 1850kg. The wheels I have now ( Boost alloy I believe ) are rated to 950kg per wheel. The axle weights are stamped on the plate with the VIN number, but that was on a 300tdi. Don't know if yours will be the same.
  10. 2 points
    Yesterday I was able to fix the two issues—challenge shifting into 3rd and 4th and odd behaviour of hi/lo—with help from Dave at Ashcroft. The 3rd/4th gear issue was a matter of adjusting the bias spring as per the FAQ on Ashcroft's website. The odd behaviour of the transfer box was not so odd actually: just needed to adjust the spline (see photo Dave sent to me). I must have put it back together incorrectly even though I was careful to mark the spline position on the connector before removing. Anyway, all is back together and the Defender is back to running smoothly.
  11. 2 points
    Standard land rover/rrc/disco/p38 bottle jack will be better.
  12. 2 points
    So......what’s wrong with the standard Land Rover bottle jack that has a top that looks like that anyway?
  13. 2 points
    IMHO the 4.0 V8 Thor engine is the best RV8 out there, as long as it's in good condition it'll make a good option for a 110. To run it you will need an ECU, either the one on the Disco or it's very well suited to a MegaSquirt setup as it has a crank sensor, coil packs and idle control valve that can be used directly with a Megasquirt ECU without needing additional trigger wheels etc... I've been considering getting one for the garage myself for a future conversion.
  14. 2 points
    Well I got to work. The fan was wired the wrong way round, well that or I put it on the wrong side. The clutch started slipping on The way in but I think it's due to the pedal not returning properly. So I've liberally lubed and we'll see what home time brings. Mike
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I did this on my last 90, dieseljim made me a little flasher circuit which flashed the led when the ignition was off. This time I was going to use it for for winch live power on but I had forgotten with all the other jobs. Thanks for the reminder Ralph 👍 Mo
  17. 1 point
    I cut the matting on mine. It does weaken it though. I cut a square out and left a thin strip in in front of the hump to try and give it a little strength.
  18. 1 point
    Chaps, Having done some reading to try and get my head around electrickery and charging and aux charging and split charging et al last evening, I really can't see why people have shot down miggit's suggestion of a second alternator. It really does seem to be a simple solution to me ! I don't have expensive fancy batteries nor fancy alternators. And I've never found alternators to be particularly unreliable, but they are really easy and cheap to repair if they do break. Seems to be a use for those little old 45 amp alternators that people replaced. It just seems to me that if the aux battery has its own supply from an alternator then all the weaknesses of split charging are removed, the aux alternator is sensing the state of charge of the aux battery and providing the appropriate charge to fully charge the battery - no middle men ! It strikes me that while it does seem overkill, it's simple, direct and if you make your own alternator mount and use a common belt, cheap. Have I really misunderstood your arguments against ? Mo
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Yeah it's Morris K48 which is a moly grease, great for propshafts but not good for wheel bearings;but then again if you use the tubes for the grease gun, a pot of ordinary nlgi 2 grease would be easier for wheel bearings.
  21. 1 point
    The tyres on there came with the wheels. They are km1's loads of tread but quite old so I would be looking to swap them for 33's or sell them and buy some 33's. I don't like the gearing at present I'm always between gears and rarely use 5th. I knew this would be the case when I bought them but love the look so went with it. Also I suspect I will have some rubbing when the suspension is flexed, don't get me wrong I'm happy to trim for clearance. Transfer box would be a good solution but they seem to be expensive these days. Axle ratio is always going to be a pain because the rear is a Salisbury. I guess it comes down to what becomes available at the right price. They looks pretty good on 33's as well so I'm not worried for looks. Mike
  22. 1 point
    No.30 out now in case anyone elses notifications have fallen in a heap again
  23. 1 point
    Yes the vacuum test on finger was done and seemed ok. Thanks guys for the replies, my signature has my truck details on it but I know some can’t view it depending on device used to view the forum. Thanks again Ralph 👍
  24. 1 point
    Clutch seems to be sorted. The fan switch is coming on to early. Will have a good check over when I get home. Mike
  25. 1 point
    The brake boosters can get tiny stress cracks around the master cylinder mounting studs - it might be that all the pedal pumping to bleed the brakes has opened one up. I've had success using good rtv sealer around the studs.


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