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  1. 4 points
    Is this what you mean by “eventually I will add to it”... 😉😉😉😉
  2. 3 points
    Make a bracket to fit the front bumper and mount it horizontally like some of the Belgian Minervas and our pinkies did. (I would be looking for a spare bonnet to put the wheel on, sticking it on the back with the 80"s narrow springs will make it wallow a bit. The phot shows the spare on the back of an 80 on a trip to Romania but the springs were beefed up. The bracket doesnt fold and the back seat passengers had to climb in over the front. Peter
  3. 3 points
    That is the problem. The state of modern vehicle styling is horrid.
  4. 3 points
    Despite having my own I'm still getting shed envy here... maybe I need more sheds?
  5. 2 points
    Check the little spindle adaptors are well fitting and screwed on tight. I would suggest some kind of thread sealer on the grub screw threads to stop them loosening and also to stop the screws rusting in place.
  6. 2 points
    Credit to Dicky or Jon Yorkshire Dales
  7. 2 points
    If it's something that you want fixed permanently in the same position, then no bolt on solution is ever going to match welding on a nicely fabricated purpose made bracket (a la binky), but if it's a removable something then I'd be looking at truss clamps. Normally used for holding lights to some scaffold over a stage, they come in a good range of roll-cage sizes, have a good load rating, are easily removed, and don't look horrendous. I used them for my quick on-off roof bars.
  8. 2 points
    It may not be that stupid. It's VERY clear that LR have changed the target market for the Defender and, if you think about it, that market is (to a large extent) people who used to buy Discoverys before the bland new one put them off. It's apparently a far bigger market than the former Defender one for an expensive working truck, so the approach should actually do the company more good than harm. That's because it will bring back a proportion of buyers who moved elsewhere, more than taking away buyers from Disco 5. I'd go further and say that the new Defender is really without peer in the modern market, for those well-heeled types who want a modern, roomy, gadget-laden vehicle which makes a statement of being rugged and go-anywhere and which genuinely won't falter at the first few hurdles. Unless you can afford a G wagon. If the 85 E.C.U.s don't fail too often and the air suspension doesn't continually misbehave, those people will probably love their Defenders and sales will be good. (Just to be clear, I am a loooooooong way from that target market and wouldn't swap my 1987 110 for a new Defender without a massive bribe. That doesn't mean I don't understand why they have done what they have done, even if I don't like it.) I'll bet they are flat out trying to re-design the D(isaster) 5 right now...
  9. 2 points
    Finish some Land Rover projects > sell them. Don't ever buy another Land Rover, live happily ever after
  10. 2 points
    Large offset wheels or spacers ? No way is ANY fabbed arm going to be anywhere near as strong as the forged original. IMO the majority of "upgrades" are like the Kings new clothes ………...
  11. 2 points
    The two pistons that showed cracks showed them right to the edge. No cracks seen in the other two -- just surface damage on the face. Turner engineering had them for a decent price, so I'll just replace all four.
  12. 2 points
    That sounds about the right sequence of events, yes.
  13. 2 points
    Not that I'm picking on Ross but I wonder whether James can build a workshop and finish his 110 before Ross finishes his...
  14. 1 point
    Standard series rad, series 3. Looks like. 4 cyl. https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/577609h-radiator-4-cylinder-new-1968-84-4-row-heavy-duty.html One option.
  15. 1 point
    I’m not surprised to hear that 😃 Presumably they need properly bedding in with new surface preparation?
  16. 1 point
    If only you knew where there was a defender 200tdi that would go straight in.....hat.....coat....out of here.
  17. 1 point
    Found this post on piston heads https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=91&t=887324 exactly the same symptoms as me turns out it was a crack in the expansion tank , worth a check!
  18. 1 point
    I’m going to a “launch event” in Sheffield next week. I don’t suppose there will be any sand or mud but I’ve received an invitation and have the time to enjoy the drinks and nibbles that will undoubtedly be provided.
  19. 1 point
    Cheers both , it’s a 200tdi Nick , a blockage is doubtful but possible as the silicone hoses were all new at rebuild and the head and block were cleaned at that time as well , I also ran it on waterless coolant up to 8 months ago . So I’ve ordered a new water pump bypass hose , as that was where I could hear a hissing from originally just in case it’s split and sucking air in under pressure , so will drain her fit that and a new thermostat as they’re cheap and see how she goes but I will check the hoses just in case . cheers Ian
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    that is, to put it bluntly, a load of nonsense. the farmer i get the derv from is running multiple nearly new tractors all running common rail diesel engines. if it was this low quality 'gas oil' (which is btw just another name for diesel!) he would be blowing up 100k tractors every day. red diesel is just diesel with no duty paid. that's it.
  22. 1 point
    Oh so already been re-bored? Took injectors out first as was chasing the white smoke. It was just when I was about to refit the shiny new ones that I saw the oil. Edit: The people at AET Turbos had one look at the turbo this morning and said without a doubt that it's perfect. For there to be any issue with the seals there would be play on the impeller and there is none. So the oil is coming from somewhere else.
  23. 1 point
    See linky about 10 minutes in as @Peaklander says. I don't see much spinning being likely, the input isn't very tangential. There is a valve in his.
  24. 1 point
    Absolutely my view too. I was under the impression spacers were banned in oz anyways.....?
  25. 1 point
    td5's run at 4 bar of fuel pressure, i would assume that a rover v8 would be similar, i know my LS runs at just under 4 bar, @FridgeFreezer will probably know more about the rover v8 fueling requirements
  26. 1 point
    The bellhousing is easy (apart from finding one - V8 R380s are not common), the bolt pattern on the box is common as you suggest. In fact it's even the same as the LT77 bolt pattern however you can not use an LT77 V8 bellhousing as it's a different length. The input shaft splines are the same I believe, but I'm not sure about the length or the diameter of the spigot bush. Changing the input shaft requires the gearbox to be partially dismantled. The easiest way will be to send your Td5 box to a rebuild place and ask them to put a V8 input shaft onto it, or if you're capable then dismantle yourself and build it back up. You'll need to change the engine mounts as already mentioned, but everything else should be able to stay in the correct position. You can retain your Td5 wiring looms and dash/instruments, with minor modifications.
  27. 1 point
    you want two different ones a press brake for thicker stuff and a box and pan bender for sheet (a straight bender will frustrate you) I'm with Stellaghost, I'd suggest you build a press with a brake fitting.... its what I did years ago, I happened to end up with a 60 ton hydraulic jack left over from a job so I designed a press to use as much offcuts as I could, and minimal stock from the rack lol I'll get a pic of it, she is a little rough but it works. Hardest job its done so far is a 550mm piece of 10mm Bis80 bent to 45 degrees on an 80mm wide anvil and from the way everything was protesting including the jack.... I broke the pivot pin on the jack handle fitting! I think its safe to say, thats its limit lol The box and pan bender I'd suggest you buy and this is the one I'd suggest https://www.machine.co.nz/product/folder-sheetmetal-4-ft-box-pan-benchmount-1-5mm-capacity-new/ And no not from these guys lol, its a chinese made unit that gets re-badged by a number of companys...... I have got one, got it through our version of ebay brand new from the importer for less than $800 delivered (think your exchange rate would make it half that) for that price its just not worth building one..... The biggest issue with it is you won't bend 4' of 1.5mm steel cleanly lol not even close..... if you crank the center tension bolts up past where you think you'd need to it will bend 4' off 1.1mm steel nice and sharp. but given most car panels are made from alot thinner steel I don't see this as a problem, I've bent a bit of alloy in it and even had it crack the alloy due to makeing the bend too sharp I have considered strengthening it (there are a few Utube and I think possibly a thread on pirate) where people have strengthend them I just haven't seen the need yet..... I have a couple of times considered modifying it to reduce the depth of the clamp, so it can fold short "U" shapes That said I've added a stand for it thats on wheels with a drop down step so when you bending long stuff you can put your foot on this to bend against without tipping it over, I've extended the lower levers and added a vertical weighted lever at one end and a tool rack on the stand for all the teeth I don't have fitted
  28. 1 point
    The roof is obviously not built for a Landy, it was built for a Bedford van, so it's too long, too wide and an odd shape for the roof of the landy. To get it to open and close correctly means adjusting everything more than once. Firstly i took the measurements of the original spring arm which allows the roof to raise and lower from the bedford and transferred that to the landy. This was a starting point from which i could begin to move things around to get everything to open and close correctly. Fitting the material allows me to work out how high the spring arms need to be and also how far along the brace they are to be positioned. The roof slopes backwards to the rear of the landy which means the 2 arms are different heights when open and this means they are at different angles too. Fitting the material shows the height at which the arms can be at their maximum, hence fitting it at this stage so i could work this out. I fitted it temporarily inside with wooden fillets screwed through the material and into the timber brace around the wood. In place it looks like this; On the sides, you can see the chalk lines which represent where the original pvc covers were attached to the bedford roof. Now to get the exact height of the arms, i need to fit the base of the material to the roof and here is where it gets a little more complicated, but this time it's because my brain is working at new ideas and isn't content with the norm Before i get to the that part, let's keep on track. The material was held down with aluminium strips, a little rudimentary to say the least, but it worked with the pvc covers originally fitted. Digging out the old strips ( i kept them ) they were a little on the, shall we say, bent side? So they needed a little persuasion to get straight again. a straight piece of wood to screw to, a hammer and another piece as a buffer so as not to damage the alumium too much and away i went. I screwed it onto the stright edge and persuaded it with the hammer to straightened them out and thus ended up with a straight piece; All good there. These are supposed to be fitted like this to the material ( ignore the lower one, that's being stored in the guttering for a minute ) Back in the 70's, this was considered a good idea and with pvc i can see the attraction to the manufacturer of said roof, but in this day and age, it's not going to cut it. So i need to come up with a better idea and to start with, i'm going to create a drip edge by attaching a piece of phenolic ply to the roof and then fix the aluminuim strips to the inside of the bellows thus removing all traces of a join or an area where the material is sandwiched and can gather water on the outside i didn't take a picture of this, but will do in the future when i begin to do it. The bunk also had to be temporarily fitted so i have an idea if the bellows, spring arm or anything else will foul it or it will foul them It doesn't at this stage, however i may fit it on the other side...depends where i put the cooker/sink eventually. If you're still here, then you may remember me mentioning my brain going off on one, and here is the idea. I like the dormobile design, it's alot bigger inside than any other pop up design as it gives full head height from behind the front seats to the rear door with no obstruction. This is great fro manouvering inside and sleeping arrangments are easier too. However.... I like the idea of this; Ignoring the clamp! That's just to highlight the idea. I want to be able to lift up the bellows so we can provide a view out of the side on nice sunny days. When i was looking at the way to fit the material to the roof it came to me that after it was secured to the roof with my drip edge technique, then if i were to fit a strong waterproof zip at this point (finger pointing in direction ) all the way around, i could technically, on a nice sunny day, unzip it and lift the material out of the way, thus creating a convertable, pop up roof! How rock n roll is that! Now to google tent zips.............
  29. 1 point
    Good on ya, its pretty simple and easy to do...... Nice work Just a couple of pionts (I don't know if you know any of this.... but it may help someone else if you do know) Using steel bucks can cause a problem when forming over an outside corner (the far end of your picture) when you hit steel on steel (steel hammer, steel buck) you stretch / thin the sheet metal, this is only after you've bent it around.... on an outside corner you are shrinking so you don't want it to fold over and then stretch.... the trick is to listen to the note of the hammer, it'll ring when its finished shrinking and starts to stretch. Another option is a soft face mallet (wood or plastic).... personally I prefer to use a good steel panel hammer as I'm better able to force any ridges (either side of a tuck) down and I use a sweeping (sort of sideways strike) this planishes (smooths) at the same time Now as for tucks, ripples, folds etc I know there are alot of videos on the net saying they are good and they are they will speed up things alot, but if you want to fold a big lip, a sharp corner or a complex shape they will slow you down and possibly stuff you up.... I like to do lots of subtle pass's around the corners avoiding any ripples (on some stuff I've gone so far as to dolly ripples that have started to form) if you do it this way you can manipulate a larger lip and do it smoothly.... Now Lo-Fi how'd your end corners go? I bet you got a little bump above your fold, because its an outside corner your shrinking so the metal has to move somewhere, because your top buck (the Box section) doesn't match the curve of the bottom buck your allowing the metal to push up into the top surface as it shrinks. Its why I use MDF alot its quick and easy to cut to shape, cut your first pattern shape it and when your happy clamp it on another piece of MDF and use the jigsaw to trace another one for the top Then over winter the offcuts burn in the shop fire place lol
  30. 1 point
    The oil light came on the the Green one and wreaked the engine after oil starvation so the one that I am buying tomorrow is a right off to donate a very low milage engine. The one I bought yesterday is purely a money making excersise as it has a very valuable private registration. My black one is still going strong and now has 202k on it.
  31. 1 point
    Too many projects or too many jobs can get to you, or stuff just being a slog - either do something else for a bit (tidy the shed, tinker with the lathe, polish your spanners, whatever) or break stuff down into small easily done pieces so you feel like you're making progress. Just pausing and looking at everything and making a big list of all the stuff can help clear your head, I love my workshop whiteboard. Failing that, watching youtube videos like Project Binky makes me feel like I want to get back out to the shed & bash some metal around.
  32. 1 point
    It is supercharged. 😥
  33. 1 point
    "60 Defenders have officially arrived in the USA for demonstration purposes. These will be at the 4xfar festival presented by @landroverusa in California. It’s been nearly 3 decades since the D110 made its debut in the North American market. It’s good to see the name return officially to US showrooms."
  34. 1 point
    How dare you! My Volvo looks a hell of a lot better than that. And is more reliable. The Swedes are quite symmetrical.
  35. 1 point
    I picked up on this comment - I installed some Rocky Mountain Parabolics a few years ago. Supplied as part of a set, to include Pro Comp 3000 Series Shock’s, they may have been 9000 series shock. Whilst I could tell the difference within a metre of driving it, I went on to have exactly the same thoughts. After having been in my mates truck cab, ex-mil 109" with coil-spring smooth ride (which is what convinced me to buy them in the first place) I was mildly disappointed in the outcome of my venture. Now, when I spoke to my mate about it - he said that is what he thought about his springs when he put them on. He put it down to the shocks - and swapped them out for standard range rover shocks - albeit by modifying the shock mounts. Solved the problem for him. I have not done mine as my LR has been laid up for various reasons. I did not get chance to try to put some miles on either. Incidentally, the price of the complete set of springs, shocks etc from Rocky Mountain has more than doubled in the time that I've had them. Also, I loaded my 109" Station Wagon up with about 330kg of sandbags prior to tightening the bolts. To set the bushes about half way between laden and unladen. Not sure looking back if that was the right thing to do...
  36. 1 point
    OK to use the existing ones if the valve/rocker clearance was OK.
  37. 1 point
    Not too cold no, about 3 degrees when we camped and about 6 just now. it’s an ARB 2.5m x 2.5m awning and honestly worth it’s weight in gold. Brilliant bit of kit 😊👍
  38. 1 point
    Get to the bottom of the starting problem on the 100" (only thing left is the injectors) and get it used and find out what needs changing on it! It needs two new props as they don't extend very easily, extra sound proofing in the cab, stereo system, wiring in the heated screen, seats and other creature comforts etc etc. Then possibly build a type of removable camper in the back and do some travelling. I also have a fibreglass mini minus shell to build at some point...
  39. 1 point
    In theory, like everything, it could be arranged - but at a cost. Not only the cost of engineering it, but - more importantly - the cost of having it tested-and-certified by a Government-approved emissions-test lab-facility and getting them to issue the appropriate city/state-recognised paperwork. This second part is - for a single vehicle - likely to cost more than the value of the vehicle. Better to sell your existing Defender and buy one of the Puma-engined ones with a DPF - and supporting-paperwork/certification - as standard. [This is why I'm selliing-on my 90TD5 and replacing it with a Euro-6-compliant Toyota Landcruiser]
  40. 1 point
    Series 3 Workshop Manual.
  41. 1 point
    Ovality, got you! I should be able to check the cam shaft bearings with these, shouldn't I?
  42. 1 point
    You can bet your life on that Ralph 😂
  43. 1 point
    Found on tinternet... He was warned... And went anyway... can you guess what comes next? Reddit are following developments but there's mention of a Faceache group for those that way inclined.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Optimil make a demountable steering wheel boss and a dome unit which fits in place so you can't attach mole grips to steer it. I bought one for mine not cheap but people waste more on bling.
  46. 1 point
    All true !! In fact the only non negotiable thing is having the lettering on the inside 😂
  47. 1 point
    ... and 25 years on its still style crime 😉😊 Mo
  48. 1 point
    ^^^^White outside is OK on that open top 90, but not on a station wagon or hardtop working vehicle.
  49. 1 point
    Be careful using a cigarette lighter plug and socket, the connections between the parts is not the best, they can get hot and must not be used for more than 10n amps. The Germans produce a plug and socket with a far more positive connection but personally I would use Anderson connectors Peter
  50. 0 points
    Was driving along a few weeks ago after along run and my engine started to make an intermittent loud knocking noise and smelt hot and of burning oil. I got it home by driving very very gently. First thing I looked at was the intake system. No oil pre turbo. The turbo had loads of play in it. So I took the head off to see what had gone on inside. Had a shock to see all of the pistons showing signs of burning away on the ceown, number 4 was particularly bad. Fortunately the head is in order and I have a spare turbo with a new CHRA fitted. So new pistons for me then


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