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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Just like to wish forum members near and far a very happy Christmas, have only been a member for a short while, although linked by an affinity for Landrovers in their many guises I find the assistance and advice given to what is essentially a faceless stranger for most members, exceptional .I personally should have joined years ago thank you.Whatever your projects or repairs are in 2019 I wish you success and fun in doing them Stephen
  2. 4 points
    Some time ago as something of an extravagant eBay impulse purchase I bought a small Proxxon MF70 with CNC conversion as the "missing link" in my tool collection, figuring with a mill & a lathe you can make anything. Life got in the way but I've finally dug it out and set it up - as you can see it's small enough to have on your desk which is part of the attraction for learning: I downloaded LinuxCNC and am currently running it inside a virtual machine (which is a terrible idea and should not be attempted by anyone) on my indoor PC just to get the hang of it, lo and behold I actually got it to do a thing: I'm not about to actually mill stuff in the house as it will throw carp everywhere, but I can at least work out the toolchain before moving to a dedicated PC and moving it all to the shed where mess can be made. I'm hoping to get a bit of tinkering time over the festive period so will post updates.
  3. 4 points
    No good to me, he's using Alu-min-um, not the Aluminium that we weld over here 😁
  4. 4 points
    Problem Solved! Had a test drive today and the brakes/servo work as they should again. and on top of that the turboboost has come back again aswell. here comes a short summery of the problems what i have checked, what turned out to be faulty and how it was fixed so that if anyone who has the same problem and cant be botherd Reading the whole tread or searchinng for specific info still can take help from this post. Problem: Car didnt have any brakes/brakes failed to slow down the car more then 10 kph untill the braking Power stopt increasing whereby the car kept "Rolling" to a stop. also car was kind of sluggish no boost from turbo. Checked (inkl my result): stuck calipers - not stuck but pistons where rusty tried first to grease up the pistons which didnt work later chanced the calipers but didnt do any differance. bleed brake at multipule occasions to makes sure there was no air in the system When stepping on the brakepedal, pedal was hard and didnt sink when starting the car. When taking hose of the servo unit no hissing/blowing sound that pressure wass released checked suction on the vacuumline no suction at all checked return valve in the servo should only blow air from the servoside - worked fine Compared suction between two vehicles Compared with two different Vacuumhoses Replaced: Changed Vaccumpump (second hand genuine) the car gor a Little more suction but not halv of what a propper had. Still no pressure in servo. Checked and changed vacuumline due to ruling out Connection to aftermarket Cruise Control. changed to a single line from pump to servo. pedal sinks/ pressure back in servo. During testdrive the brakes work and car is not sluggish anymore and turbo seem to have pressure back. Thanks to all helping/comming up with ideas and telling me what to check.
  5. 4 points
    Hi, Just found this in another forum. Could it be what's hiding in mule's clothing? http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/steam-powered-land-rover-photos-videos-70639?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=12-20-18#post123450 Mike
  6. 4 points
    apologies if this has been seen before, sent to me just now it made me smile.
  7. 4 points
    I try to stay away from Britpart but that looks quite good
  8. 4 points
    No it isn't. It's complicated, f**k ugly stuff for rich people
  9. 3 points
    A long time ago, in a galaxy swamp far way, this was my daily driver. A manual V8 converted to a 4.6, with Ashcroft lockers and a Milemarker hydraulic winch, named Piper. She did very well, both on and off the road. Unfortunately, it got destroyed when our workshop burned down in 2015. At that time I was registered to take her back to Ladoga, but obviously never made it. I drove another, standard, P38 for the last couple of years, but always wanted to rebuild a similar car. Now that our Workshop has been rebuilt and is operational again, the time as come to stop dreaming and start getting greasy. After lots of thought, I decided to start from another P38 I've had for some time, named Prue. Prue is/was a 4.6 automatic, and as soon as I found a manual one (Piper) I preferred driving that. She 'only' had a 4.0, so the 4.6 was transferred from Prue and Piper evolved into the above car. That left Prue as a 4.0 automatic, mainly driven by my girlfriend at the time. Eventually put aside with a water leak at the valley but I never got 'round to sorting her. Couldn't bring myself to sell or strip either, as she was my first V8. So now the time has come to bring her back to life. It wont be the easiest way though, as I want to convert to manual. She will be aptly renamed Phoenix. I've got a 5.0 engine block with all the goodies, a Megasquirt to power it (thanks to @FridgeFreezer) and managed to salvage the gearbox and flywheel/clutch from the burned Rangie. The Milemarker looks like it can be rebuilt as well. By chance I also came across a manual diesel P38. In a poor shape, but a perfect donor for the interior parts for a conversion to manual. First task is to get the MS running in a P38 with direct coil drive and reusing as much of the standard fuses, relays and wiring. Including the original CKP (hence the choice for direct coil drive). Test case will be a GEMS, but I've also got a later P38 with Bosch/Thor engine, and plan to use the intake manifold for the 5.0 to maximize torque. Next would be to install the manual box. I'm thinking a body off will probably be the easiest way to swap engine and gearbox. That will make it easy to redo the brakelines and stuff as well. And it's not that hard on a P38, as I've found out stripping the manual diesel. Arnott GenIII airsprings and longer Terrafirma dampers will also be installed. A new set of pegged Ashcroft lockers is on order, brakes will no doubt need refurbishing and bushes replaced. Most work will be the interior I fear. The dash has to be removed to get access to the pedalbox and install one with a clutch pedal... Still convinced I want a manual and the conversion is worth it! Once that's done, I'll get to building up the 5.0. So it wont sit around for too long before being fired up. Then there will be loads of smaller tasks. Like enlarging the wheel arches for the Mickey Thompson Baja Claws. Those were almost impossible to get, I had to resort to importing directly from the US, with an expensive surprise to get it out of the port and through customs. A custom bumper, based on the above design will be made. It's basically a hidden winch mount, with the standard inner bumper welded to it and the original plastic cover. A snorkel will need to be fitted, which requires a different airbox. Ideally she should be finished by April. To be pressed into service as a daily driver. The new LEZ in Brussels means I will no longer be allowed to drive my Esprit to work, as it predates the Euro emissions standards. So for the environment's sake I will have to trade in the 2.2 4-pot for a 5.0 V8. 🙂 LPG should keep things affordable. In May I need a good Rangie as a tow vehicle, to do tech support on a classic car run. Hoping we wont actually need the trailer, but she should be there and make an impression. And then there's Ladoga, as mentioned in another thread. And what got me to start this topic. I'll try to update regularly and add some pictures. Being the dinosaur I am, I don't have a fancy phone that outsmarts me, and getting my greasy paws on the good camera is frowned upon. So don't expect too much, unless @elbekko remembers to take some pics while helping me. Greetz, Filip
  10. 3 points
    Just found this piccy. Thankfully for my neighbours My house no longer looks like this. My Stage 1 V8 sold with only 40k on it from new. Again idiot selling it. Defender G4 Event Vehicle, Yep really stupid letting that go, Disco, Don't remind me about that And Billy
  11. 3 points
    All the time and effort (not to say Money) i`ve put in to the landy it would be a shame to give up. finding Another one for a good price is hard here in sweden Although this one was pretty annoying and frustrating at times. On top of that i Always find it rather annoying when you are searching on the forums for a solution t problem and you find something very simular but without a solution or instruction what has been done or resolved the problem. So decided to write a summery to help and make it easier for other enthusiast. Glad you guys like it
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    A new tail gate made by my friendly fabricator... He said he surprised himself - I’m delighted ! The only bit re-used is the tilt hooks. Tub has gone to paint and I’ve made up the final list of parts I need to buy for it. Getting closer.
  14. 3 points
    Hi Folks, Finally got round to giving it another go. This time, the seal seemed to fit better around the windscreen glass by leaving a little more of the excess at the four corners. Fitted a rope into the groove and lubed up with some silicon spray (the stuff used for fitting plastic drain pipes). With the help of my better half, we positioned the screen and started fitting. It was all pretty straight forward except for one corner which as a complete *itch. That said, once all pulled round and tapped in place, it's fitted really well. Not had time to test it for leaks yet. Thanks for all the tips. Some images attached. Simon...
  15. 3 points
    Turn it the other way around and it has Nige's middle name -"ow"!
  16. 2 points
    JLR consistently appear in the bottom of the reliability rankings. After the TDI 200 the JLR products experienced a lot of significant design failures. It's a fair thing to say that the new model will have a significant weakness, based on history.
  17. 2 points
    A good friend of mine and Robs passed his driving test and Billy was loaned to him as his first car. Thats how it ended up in a ditch and when patched up crabbed down the road
  18. 2 points
    Prior to me taking Billy off the road. Boris the Mayor decided smelly diesels were not allowed near London. Billy got a 2.5 petrol engine off eBay for £200 and I stopped getting letters from the Mayors office threatening me with fines. The Diesel engine was sold on eBay and ended up going abroad.
  19. 2 points
    I have been on here for years and your findings are true. I have met many through this forum that I consider friends some of those I've never actually met face to face. Long may it continue and seasons greetings to all. Mike
  20. 2 points
    a 5.0 p38 is a very cool concept and i want one. especially in manual form... but i think if you dont supercharge it, youll be missing a trick
  21. 2 points
    A few illustrative pictures; Road to camp - log bridge: This is what happens when Kai gathers a little firewood - team support trailer: Tapio's support C306's are well stocked: In camp, typical sorts of scenarios: Yours truly being stopped by the DPC (police): A bit of Tourist class: The class system is good and works well, but you have to be wary of who's coming up behind you - if you do TR3 you become cannon fodder for the Proto/TR4 class who will hunt you down and then destroy everything in their wake, so that you get stuck & become a road-block to the other protos, and then you're in a world of pain.
  22. 2 points
    Watching with interest. If I can help in any way please shout. Mike
  23. 2 points
    Personally if it were mine and the discs are not completely trashed, I'd top up the swivel oil, put some new pads in to tide you over, wait for the warmer weather and do it yourself. Mo
  24. 2 points
    Hey! That's mine, it's even got my name on it ! 😂 Mo
  25. 2 points
    Regarding wattage, you’re on shaky ground legally by increasing that. Many do it I am sure but 60/55 is the standard. Any H4 bulb will die if it’s dunked I’m afraid. Biggest single improvement can be had by fitting a relay loom to take the feed direct from the alternator to the bulbs. Ensures they get full voltage and also takes the load of the switch. Not expensive to make yourself, or buy a ready-made one. I have a Landreizger one which is very good. After that, decent quality bulbs and clean headlamp units does the rest. High-output bulbs like the Nightbreakers give impressive light levels but the bulb life is reduced significantly. I got through three sets in one winter! I do a lot of miles in the dark (c. 15,000 p.a.) on properly dark roads, and I’ve found that a set of decent branded standard 55/60 bulbs fitted into clean standard Wipac headlamp units and powered through a relay loom gives me more than enough light.


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