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Showing most liked content since 07/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Ross still hasn't finished his 90....
  2. 3 points
    If you consider the abomination they've managed to turn the discovery into, I'd hate to think what they'll do to the defender. (Plus I do wish these damn articles would stop making out that the defender has been in production since 1948!)
  3. 3 points
    The admins need to change your label to Chief Snitch!
  4. 3 points
    Well, paypal initially declined the request - they said I was outside of the 30 day limit and I should contact the vendor. I pointed out the irony of this given that the reason it was so late was because the vendor had not bothered to reply. I also pointed out that it was in fact 29 days and not 30. They then refunded me my postage. I do think that this does not then get taken from Island4x4 unfortunately. I then sent Island4x4 an email. Copied below for your amusement. I doubt they will read it. Dear Sam/Island 4x4, I have lost count of the number of times I have emailed and tried to ring you about the refund for my postage for the item above. I have now asked paypal to pursue this for me. I am assuming, because of the complete lack of response, that you were not going to bother refunding the postage, but simply didn’t have the courtesy to tell me. You have had the returned item for what must be 5+ weeks now. I am shocked that any company can behave in this way towards its customers. If you look back at my sales history with you, you will see that I have spent a reasonable amount with Island4x4 this year - that trade will now be going elsewhere. I have a number of friends in the land rover world and when the topic of where to buy parts from comes up I will make them aware of the difficulties in resolving problems with your company due to your inability to respond to simple queries. I would suggest that for future customers you resolve this issue because whilst your prices are competitive, your after sales service is appalling. Richard
  5. 3 points
    Well, all went well and the disco is back home ready for me to take a proper look at. After a very brief look, there is a slight kink in the chassis leg on the nearside - this is where the tow eye may have taken some of the impact. I dont think it is anything serious though - at most will mean the replacement bumper will need a little fettling to refit straight and square. I think a hammer may sort it tbh!
  6. 2 points
    hahaha oh dear... you know I thought that was connected to here but I kinda missed the obvious... its been one of those weeks I'm afraid... even more worrying its still only Tuesday...
  7. 2 points
    Went up to have a look - got cam belt done , new lights all round , full service and few other bits - will have years of service after this !
  8. 2 points
    The bfg muds I've just put on the 110 are 255/85x16 I know there not at's but I can strongly recommend them. There a great all round tyre. Mike
  9. 2 points
    You made my Mrs laugh anyway Doug I told her no way am I fitting spacers now and showed her the pic to which I was told short sharp thrift "There is probably nothing wrong with them what do you expect with a name like DANGEROUS DOUG"
  10. 2 points
    Being used every 6 weeks it should be fine unless the battery's dodgy. Our ambulance stays parked for months in between uses and starts fine every time so far. I'd be more worried about an unattended charger catching fire than the battery going flat but I'm a bit paranoid about unattended electricals.
  11. 2 points
    Finally got time to get these fitted today, all went together very well. the new hoses are well clear of the exhaust, made a bracket for the bleed screw end, it's just a temp one for now, probably make another to drop the bleed screw end down a bit lower, but as it is now, doesn't touch when bonnet is shut., so quite happy with the result. 1st pic hoses at slave cylinder end, bleed hose is upper. 2nd pic homemade bleed point bracket, hose come up under the air intake trunking & behind the washer tank. 3rd pic pipe from master cylinder through adaptor to slave cylinder, viewed from under vehicle, exhaust downpipe on left 4th pic view of hoses from above, heater box on right.
  12. 2 points
    Ok so after testing everything and removing the starter for test Iv realised I had took a proper dumb moment. I orgot I'd ran the earth from the starter to the second earth post on the battery. DOH!! Starts nae probs now it's attached ?
  13. 2 points
    Welcome back I haven't finished the ibex yet either but I'm a lot closer than Ross. Mike
  14. 2 points
    Not just yet Ross, not just yet....
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    Anyone who has ridden a fixed gear bicycle with no brakes gets a real good appreciation for how much work the brakes do! For emergencies I guess you could short the coil to stop quicker than standard regenerative braking but essentially you are just trying to convert a huge amount of kinetic energy into something else. If you short the coils you are going to change it to heat in the motor requiring the motor to be designed to take that heat and so less efficient in normal usage. Using discs to convert the kinetic to heat is just an easy way to do it. With regenerative braking you are trying to convert that energy from kinetic, to electrical, and into chemical energy with unwanted heat being generated at each point. In a similar way to not being able to get the energy into the battery quick enough when charging (granted some of those problems are on the supply side) you have a similar problem when trying to use regenerative braking for hard stops. I like the idea of the brakes being a completely different system, but as super capacitors and battery technologies advance I have little doubt that eventually it may get to the point where the hydraulic braking systems we use now are shown to be statistically less reliable than just using the power train to brake. Like others have hinted at the finances have a hell of a weight in these kind of moves and the though of being able to get shot of a complete system would be beneficial for costs. Wouldn't want to pay the indemnity insurance for the people who make that call though. Essentially they will have a figure of an acceptable number of accidents due to system failure rather than saying it will only be used if it is impossible to fail! With regards to the four motor system I was looking at something very similar before my truck arrived for a radio controlled car. Have the bits still in the loft somewhere. Basically just a robot project but had four wheel steering and I was looking to replace the diffs with a double belt drive to achieve independent wheel control. No real reason why, just because!
  17. 2 points
    Thanks! Going a metallic jaguar grey for the panelwork, early type grille and headlamp surrounds in Matt black, fabricating ends for the later steel bumpers to get rid of the plastic corner bits and then they will go Matt black too. Losing the side rubbing strips. Will be fitting Matt black 8" x 18" boost type alloys
  18. 2 points
    I bought a rear axle A frame to clean up and prepare for a chassis up rebuild. However I was struggling to get the old ball joint out of its housing, even with a press, heat, BFH, plus gas etc. I have also been using an electrolytic bath to derust things (washing soda solution in a plastic crate and an old brake disc as anode, battery charger power) so in desperation I put the balljoint and housing in for a couple of days. Result, a couple of whacks with a 1lb hammer and out it popped, no problem. Whether it was just the soaking or the electrolysis I don't know, but it was very effective.
  19. 2 points
    Below is a picture of my set up during the development stage. The red thing poking through the bulkhead is a Ford bellhousing. My 88" runs a 2,6 L V6 from a Capri. The aluminium plate was made to adapt the Ford housing to the front of the "Stumpy" LT77 5 speed. All levers are Series looking and functioning. The LT230 is converted to part time 4WD and a 1:1.003 ratio. Standard 4.7 diffs are retained. This combination gives good cruise performance and a very low range. 2500 RPM in top gear is 65 MPH.1000 RPM in 1st gear low gives you about 2 MPH.
  20. 2 points
    Yes after a rocky start. There was an earth fault on the starter relay which took some finding but got there in the end. Mike
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    One of my dashes but modified to fit round the wiper system. Not mounted yet that's tomorrow's job. Today I've been wiring the back lights, tank sender and towing socket. Plus sorting the tank breather and fitting the rear floor. Finally a picture sporting the mirrors. Mike
  23. 2 points
    Reminds me of the electric car the trio made on top gear...
  24. 2 points
    From this. To this. Not sure if it looks much better but it's all where it's supposed to be now. Working: Head and side lights. Cooling fan. Heater. Wipers and washer. Not working: Horn. Indicators. Rear light (not wired yet). Gauges. I've fitted the mirrors but decided to leave them manual for now. The dash needed some repairs and alterations. I'm using the disco binnical so had to cut this section of the dash to make it removable. I also did the centre console while I was at it. It's been in and out a few times to get it to fit but I'm happy now so have started painting it. Mike
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
    I'd suggest you go back and get them to fit the tow electrics you'd ordered.
  27. 2 points
    You can get a speed sensor for a fraction of Devon 4x4s prices from RS Components IIRC. (I think there was a thread on the lro forum some years ago with the part numbers). There's also an overdrive spares place in Sheffield that sells parts for these a LOT cheaper than D44. (Amazes me that d44 have any custom when you look at how much they charge for things!!)
  28. 2 points
    Okay, hopefully the last word and advice to others who may follow in my sorry path. The crankshaft bolt MUST NEVER be applied with any form of locktite, ONLY copper based grease and it MUST be done up to the specifications which are 80 Nm AND then a further 90* degrees to stretch the bolt. The bolt and its washer apply pressure to the harmonic pulley which in turn presses on the crankshaft timing gear cog which in turn presses on, and holds in place the oil pump inner gear up against the step on the crankshaft. It is this pressure that holds it in place and prevents is from turning on the crankshaft, the four tiny lugs which locate it on the crankshaft flats are to locate it only, not hold it in position. By applying copper grease if you use the correct LR tool to retain the crankshaft pulley (easily fabricated by the way) removal/undoing of the bolt is relativity easy. Its also possible by cuttning away a small part of the fan cowl bottom to tightener the bolt in situe on the road if you feel its coming loose. According to LR the crank shaft bolt, like the cylinder head bolts should be replaced every 5 times its stretched.
  29. 2 points
    Don't forget to update with a few pics of the progress
  30. 2 points
    Thanks to assistance from oneandtwo & paulMC, I now have a second hand loom minus the 10 way immobiliser plug, and the correct plug and fittings to make it suit my needs. Many thanks to everyone who has offered help and advice here. Hippo.
  31. 2 points
    I've sent you a PM.
  32. 2 points
    If you had titled it as 'my Defender 90' I wonder how long it would take for others to realise it is just a RC model. looks great.
  33. 2 points
    I have had a rummage and I have found it. Can you pm me your email address and I'll send you some photos.
  34. 2 points
    I may have that loom, I'll check later this afternoon - I scrapped two 1998 300tdi defenders last year and still have a box of looms
  35. 2 points
    Shortly after picking up my nice shiny, and turns out rather special, diff from Nige a revolutionary new form of diff guard was fitted on the short drive home. Cracked him up so I thought I'd share.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    You'll have to de-tune the pump IIRC the pins are meant to be used with a "standard" pump
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    The TDV8 should not need a tune. Make sure the thing is running as it should before even considering tuning...
  40. 1 point
    Yes, I would try to avoid sitting the engine on it's sump. Maybe try and support it on each of it's engine mounts. The gearbox and transfer box are all solid, but as the transfer box drops down diagonally, it may need chocking with wood as the whole unit (engine ans boxes) may topple over! Steve
  41. 1 point
    It is 18 years since I did the swap so I admit I may have forgotten a few of the details
  42. 1 point
    Electric vehicles get to bend plenty of safety regulations on account of being politically correct. Just look at the death trap that was the G-Whiz. I wouldn't be the slightest surprised to see them allowed. Besides, the safety regs that supposedly stopped EU and US sales of Defenders don't stop the Jeep Wrangler, which has near identical construction and safety, and the emissions that stopped Defender production don't affect the Ford Transit. It's pure politics and money, not legitimate safety that determines a vehicle's sale.
  43. 1 point
    Just jack on front wheel and turn until the diff flange lines up... Pop on the front prop... Then do the same for the rear.. One wheel is ll it needs per axle.
  44. 1 point
    I haven't looked into it but I'd imagine the torque curve will be different? Ie the 1.8 has its torque much higher in the rev range so not much use for low speed crawling/towing etc? As above id look at just slotting a tdi in or if you're determined to be different and have an interesting project then I'd look towards a merc om606/5. More expensive but much better power and torque. Or on the other hand, it's your money, your Landrover and your time, I'd be interested to see how it goes just to see if it can be done and what obstacles and you overcome them. All the best jamie
  45. 1 point
    Another few hours done. Finished blocking roof. Etch and high build then 320grit dry and 800grit wet, few bits to nitpick but close now. Also repaired the alloy rot on both rear 1/4 panels and tig brazed up the pinholes in one of the rear steel corner sections. New lower tailgate has had its debt pulled and now looks like a brand new one. I've never seen one with NO rust before!!! Must get a pic of that lol!!
  46. 1 point
    Mine has been like that for years too, no problems
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Shouldn't that be a TD5 with a viscous fan? Aircon fans should only activate with elevated engine temperatures, so it's not normal for them to run on. Most electric fans will run with the ignition off as they are usually wired straight to the battery.
  49. 1 point
    The cap is sealing the T piece and has never leaked a drop in the umm 5 years it has been on there. yes that is the windscreen washer hose wrapped around the heater pipes. Keeps it from freezing in winter and seems to help the screen wash cut through the grease/sap better during summer.. Some of those kits on the bay of flea as well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=Prestone+Antifreeze+Flush+and+Fill+Kit&_sacat=0
  50. 1 point
    I'll be there on Saturday. Never been before but it looks quite good, more my sort of thing than the endless "extreme" and "challenge" tat cluttering up the other shows.