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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Just to help a liitle i have marked ALL the water ingress points in BLACK for you and anyone else who is interested!?! There, i think that about covers it!?!
  2. 3 points
    Local gamekeeper dropped this off the other day, was his Grandfarther's - a blacksmith somwhere down south. been sat in a barn for heaven knows how long, bit of a fettle with a wire brush and she's come up grand.
  3. 3 points
    I've grown quite accustomed to the rear off centre plate, hopefully the new defender will have the same design cue and that'll be another nail in its hypothetical coffin
  4. 3 points
    Don't forget there will be loads of aftermarket stuff, like the number plate fix for the d5 https://houseofurban.co.uk/shop/discovery5/discovery-5-rear-number-plate-centralisation-kit/
  5. 3 points
    Me too and like any sensible mortal will reserve judgement whether or not to buy if and when they eventually start rolling off the production line. Of course a big deciding factor will be whether fellow owners will wave at each other like the old days ...no really
  6. 3 points
    Traction control only goes so far. There are many situations where it can be beaten and mechanical locking and/or more even ground pressures are needed. It is very common to get the modern Land Rovers stuck or unable to proceed due to the reliance on TC where even unlocked traditional vehicle that have better wheel travel can get through.
  7. 3 points
    Ah, I see two completely standard defenders in that picture... And yes, each vehicle has its weak points but then an FL or D2 or P38 has a lot of strong points over a 90, this isn't about cherry-picking examples where X is better/worse than Y, my POINT is the massive negative conjecture about a vehicle we know almost nothing about, and nay-saying of things like independent suspension with no good reason. I mean, someone in this thread actually cited the PCD of the wheels as proof it would be totally rubbish, what the hell are people in here smoking? You can argue with the styling and the complexity of some of LR's stuff certainly but you really can't sensibly argue with how capable it is compared to almost anything else on the market .
  8. 2 points
    My recomendation would be,don't go July or August,it will be mad busy,the ferrys double their prices & temperatures reguarly are in the 40's. Both times I've been i've sailed from Toulon, to Bastia,then back from Ajaccio to Toulon.Ferr sails overnight so you get a good kip,resteraunts on board are very expensive,so if you want take food on board with you. crossin cost me 330€ return for extra high Defender 90,cabin for 2 adults.Not bad,me thinks.😎 Marc
  9. 2 points
    Because pictures and sarcasm tell a better story: https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/search?q=filter&restrict_sr=1
  10. 2 points
    Crikey, a decent quality tdi filter kit can be had for around £15. Why wouldnt you change them?! Its preventative maintenance, i doubt anyone sees an improvement they can truthfully measure!
  11. 2 points
    I don't know your experience/qualification in this area of vehicle dynamics and do not wish to offend you, but from my experience (off road motorsport engineer) I would wholeheartedly disagree with this statement. Vehicle dynamics is an extremely complex subject, Roll stiffness V.S. ride frequency are not directly linked to suspension type. Geometry, yes, but this does not mean that generalising independent suspension to be worse than live axle in this instance. Our bulldogs have very similar wheel travel to a standard defender. similar articulation, but better on and off road handling by miles. Roll stiffness and articulation are, in effect the same thing. whether this is tuned through suspension geometry, roll axis height V.S. CoG, or the addition and sizing of anti roll bars, is almost irrelevant. You could make a beam axled car with a super low ride frequency and super high roll stiffness if you wanted to, Inversely you could also design a fully independent car with super high ride frequency and super low roll stiffness. It just depends on what the criteria for the design is. The smaller PCD stands up absolutely fine in extremely harsh competition environments, It's not the wheel studs that take the loads (or at least shouldn't be by design), its the centre spigot. We go through hundreds of wheels on races, every failure is rim deformation. barring one, which was of a defender wheel where the centre ripped out. up to press smaller PCD wheels have stood up to that. That was purely spoke design and the cause of impact being 50+MPH into a tree with said wheel though.. the entire chassis was shunted on the left hand side by 25mm. please let me know your thoughts for this. Healthy discussion of course. And what makes this trickier on independent setups. The discovery 3/4 reigned as tow car of the year for how many years running? I would also argue that our 17 plate ford ranger is noticably less stable, and less grunty than our predecessing D4. For a pickup however, It is lovely and I really like it!
  12. 2 points
    I fitted the aluminium with plastic ends. It is all that cars are made with today. And today's cars are a lot more reliable than cars coming from the copper rad era. It is technically possible that they fail, but how often do you change rads on modern cars? Did you not just answer your own question? Daan
  13. 2 points
    Most of them use leaf-springs too, not like these unnecessarily complicated Defenders...
  14. 2 points
    Regarding Td5 speedo run up. After I got Cwazy Rabbit to sort out a Td5 speedo for me I then promptly waited 60k to fit it so had to do some catch up without sending it back to him... I just plugged it into a battery and used a blob of bluetac to center the speedo sender to the center of a 12v computer fan, I think I worked out the speedo tops out at something like 250mph, after some trial and error measuring I worked out how many hours it needed to run for and then just let it do it - I had it set up running for a week or so and voila... pretty clunky and certainly lacks finesse but it got the job done.
  15. 2 points
    How do you know that's not exactly what they're doing? All I can see on this thread is a load of rose-tinted b*ll*cks about how great the Defender was, ignoring the many, many shortcomings / compromises and ALSO ignoring the fact that most stuff they've built since the Defender can run rings around a standard Defender and is far better at everything else to boot. Even the original Freelander can keep with a stock Defender off-road and everyone pooh-poohed that as being "not a proper Land Rover" - likewise the FL2 / Evoque / Disco Sport I'll bet can at least match a stock Defender for 99% of what actual buyers do with it. As far as I can tell people are just assuming that modern things like independent suspension is junk, despite so much stuff having it these days and it being absolutely fine on things like the current RR and Disco (I mean, have you SEEN the travel on them?) and lots of assumptions about everything else being awful because, um, that makes sense for them to spend millions designing a vehicle that's awful? I'm sure the purists bitched about coil springs and full-time 4x4 when they moved from Series to Defender but I don't see the moaners here driving TRUE leaf-sprung Land Rovers, just namby-pamby coilers with carpets and stereos
  16. 1 point
    Hopefully pics as promised should show rough cut discs machined discs and mounted disc
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Will you be ditching the alrc rules and competition altogether? If so, would you not be better off starting from scratch with a tube frame and transfer all the bits over to it? I've been cursing working round a chassis after recently starting work on an off roader based on a Volvo C304. I said to myself I'd never build another buggy again with a chassis when I built my last one, this was meant to be a quick scrapheap challenge type build that's now grown legs and I'm regretting it already. Every time I look at it and think of the time I've wasted and compromises I've made instead of just sitting everything on sand bags where I want it and join the dots with tube. That said, I haven't owned it for long, that thing of yours is almost like a pet the time you've had it, would be a bit like shooting your dog if you broke it.
  19. 1 point
    Be interesting to see the tyre wear after 20K miles
  20. 1 point
    We may well strip our current caravan but we have limited space and will probably need the current one while building. A caravan chassis is not in my opinion robust enough and are quite limited in carrying capacity. Quite often things like cookers, sinks and fridges are available from work. I restore classic power boats for a living so the interior fittings are often replaced with shiney new ones. Mike
  21. 1 point
    Standard Defender steel and HD/Wolf are all nut-centric. There is a gap around the hub spigot.
  22. 1 point
    Casting will be the same, minor details may differ but as you're on Megasquirt it'll be nothing that can't be made to work I'd hope.
  23. 1 point
    Fitted just got to re-position the power steering pipes on the back of the crossmember. Mike
  24. 1 point
    The irony being that it wouldn't happen in a Defender - the various panel gaps would ensure adequate ventilation!
  25. 1 point
    You'll need to remove the screen to do it properly. This isn't a straight forward or easy repair...first you'll need to drill out all the spot welds that hold the original pressing to the inner bulkhead strengtheners. There are spot welds all around the vent seal aperture (you'll have to delicately remove the mesh), and a few dotted about around the usual rot spots in the top corners (if they haven't rotted away). The spots welds on the top of the panel where the windscreen sits don't need to be drilled as I've found these repair panels are shorter on the top fold although this then requires a seam weld all along the top. You'll also need to remove the drip channel too. Best to tackle one side at a time to retain some shape, the wiper spindle holes can act as a datum for alignment as can the windscreen mount holes (if they haven't rusted away!) Its time consuming for sure.... Spots drilled... Youll also need to refit the bonnet hinges which are spot plug welded on, the vent flap hinges were slightly out on the ones I fitted so these had to be removed and welded back on.


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