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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 4 points
    Ok, I'l bite.. I finished the mockup of the adapter plate: I am trying to marry a VW 1.9 TDI engine to the Mahindra gearbox. It takes some doing before they say 'i do'. To make it as easy as possible, I started with a longitudinal mounted version of this engine, from a Passat, as this has the starter motor on the engine side, as well as more favourable engine mounts, a vacuum pump at the side of the engine, rather than at the back, and an engine mounted viscous Fan. At the heart of this is a Valeo solid flywheel conversion kit for a 130 HP TDI. The 130 HP engine has a larger diameter clutch, and this clamps the Jeep friction plate perfectly: I don'e have much in the way of machining equipment, but I do have CAD. I also found a factory drawing with mounting pattern dimensions for the VW TDI, as well as a Factory drawing for the mounting pattern of the Peugeot Indenor engine that normally lives in the Mahindra. This gave me the bolt pattern for the gearbox. On CAD, marying this up ended up looking like this: The good thing is that this will be acurate by design, and Via a waterjet cutter, I can get the adaptor plate cut from CAD. But first the plywood adapter To this can the Mahindra bell house now be fitted: So this is where I am now. next is dropping this lot in the chassis and see what obstacles we find next. It takes a while though.. Thanks for looking! Daan
  3. 4 points
    Retroanaconda, yesterday.
  4. 3 points
    Naks, for all the faults of the old (real) Defenders, chassis stiffness was not one. Given how your past garage stuffed your rear diff and appeared to have bent an axle (if I understood other comments correctly you had a bent axle that you attributed to LR, but I doubt they sent it out like that), do you not think that any chassis sag or buckling your vehicle may have had in their care was not because of a design issue but because they dropped it off a lift, likely buckling that axle at the same time?
  5. 3 points
    This mornings endeavors taking shape regards Stephen
  6. 3 points
    My Son has just bought his first Land Rover, being a humble apprentice with very little money you can imagine the rest it has a long list of issues, so I have been roped in to help. Heres Bob, Rivet counters look away now, he is a 1964 Series 2A fitted with a Mercedes OM617 5 cylinder diesel, he also has series 3 front. Once he is working correctly and we have some spare cash he will be returned back to a 2 front
  7. 2 points
    It does look like it unlocks with a key, so the faff probably wasn't worth it? It's a poor design: Clearly awkward to use; it would block even more of your rearward visibility, on a car that is already challenged in that respect; and I bet you'd hate the wind noise/drag while revelling in the alleged 129 m.p.h. your 400 h.p. engine and 22" rims would allegedly allow on certain European roads!
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    You and I bought the same kit. Glad your drop arm came off easier than mine. I will swap my track rod in a week or so and get the tracking checked at the MOT which I'm just about to book. I know it shouldn't change as the new rod will be set to the same length but better to be sure.
  10. 2 points
    Quick update. The timing has been done, new cam pulley and all. The noise has gone. Hopefully that will be that for another decade or so.
  11. 2 points
    Problem solved. A wire that had been repaired from the Main fuse box to Fuse 3 (Fuel shut-off) was not repaired properly resulting in a large voltage drop across the connection. Repaired the wiring and she fires up like a champ every time now. Always good to get one in the win column. Cheers!
  12. 2 points
    If you’ve got an idea of why you’d like for it, why not post it on here for a bit first? I know I’d much rather sell something here than Ebay!
  13. 2 points
    I’d pull the diff to check all the bearings. People are scared of the Salisbury, but it’s easier to do this job than on a Rover in most respects - it just takes a bit of physical effort. Drain it, remove the prop and mark the pinion nut and pinion before undoing the nut. Having someone stand on the brake pedal may help, but the best way to stop the pinion rotating is to fit two old bolts through the flange and use a sturdy bar across them to the ground. Then pull the half shafts.p and diff bearing caps (mark them for side and orientation first). Ideally, you’d use a spreader tool to make diff removal easier, but you can get by without it - you just need two bars to pry the diff back evenly and square. Be careful - it’s heavy and may jump as it clears the last of the binding in the bearings. Good to have something soft under the axle for it to fall on, just in case, and I don’t mean your face or chest! Once it’s out, you can check the bearings. You’ll be able to check the rear pinion bearing (nearest the gear), but to check the smaller front bearing, you’ll need to remove the pinion seal. As long as you replace the bearings with decent quality new ones of the same bearing number, then you don’t need to worry about setting things up when you reassemble it. Just reuse the original shims exactly as they were and it’ll be perfect. They won’t drop out and get mixed up - the pinion shims are trapped between the rear bearing outer race and diff housing, while the centre’s shims are between the centre and its inner races on each side. You'll need a bearing puller to remove the inner races from the centre and rear of the pinion. You may find after all of that the bearings are ok, but at least you’ll know. In that case, the only part you’ll need is a new pinion seal (and pan gasket, unless you prefer RTV sealant). It will also give you the chance to check the ring and pinion gears themselves to chips or odd wear patterns. Checking the planet and side gears is a bit more involved, but probably easy enough. The other plausible source is the shaft splines, but I assume you’ve already checked them.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Did you mange to revive the BeCM?
  16. 1 point
    If it came in a blue box there's a fairly high chance its poor component quality.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Oh and the exhaust https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173830804171
  19. 1 point
    I never understand why you guys in the USA want a diesel Land Rover. The only reason we run diesels over here is down to our very very expensive fuel costs and the fact the diesel is a fair bit more frugal. But that is pretty much the only reason to want to run a Land Rover diesel. They are slower, a lot less refined, a lot more noisy and less powerful than a good rover V8. And generally with a worse weight distribution too. I'm not knocking the diesels, in their own right they are good engines (I run a diesel Land Rover and have had multiple examples). But a Rover V8 Defender is far superior at almost everything. The only real negative for the V8 is they tend to like water less than a diesel if you are doing a lot of wading.
  20. 1 point
    Hi guys, I’m new here but not to Landy’s, not sure how active this forum is but thought I’d give it a go, June 2020 (yes, after Brexit, possibly) I will be driving to Romania and back for my holidays. Going via France, Italy, Croatia, Slovenia because I’ve done the direct route back in 2010. The reason for my post is that I am asking for knowledge of small campsites en-route and was hoping that people local to these areas may be able to help. Most stops will be for only one night. Many thanks in advance
  21. 1 point
    I'm with Bowie, that's a very poor interpretation... It annoys me giving into pedants, particularly when they're wrong, but it doesn't always make life easy. Swap out the supply into or bypass the inhibit relay should sort you out without much hassle.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Defender 200Tdi should be 0.85bar, I upped mine to be 15psi on the boost gauge when the new core was fitted back in May
  24. 1 point
    Try Britpart? Nah, kidding, a decent bearing place should sort you, if they're not busy.
  25. 1 point
    3 days work at £50 an hour. Depending on the extent of the work that can easily disappear if you need to remove the pedal boxes, wing, suspension turret... bla bla bla... Thats why I invested in my own welder. Welding repairs on old vehicles is a hugely time consuming job.
  26. 1 point
    The bloody wire to the stop solenoid fell off so I’ve bent it up now so won’t come off again plus new spade connector, guess I loosened it when trying to sort thu wires 🙄
  27. 1 point
    These engines are generally understressed, unlike the turbo version that followed them (never adopted by the military for that reason), but they can still crack their pistons if they get hot. My 12J would frequently get close to, but not into, the red on long hill climbs in summer, and descending the other side of the hill didn’t really bring the temperatures down, but dropping a gear to raise the revs rapidly dropped the temperature. That problem went away with a replacement exhaust (correct 2” diameter instead of the old petrol exhaust - this was on a 109). So, even without technically overheating the engine, you could have cracked the pistons. You should see that if you remove the head and clean the pistons of soot with soft wire wool (brass rather than steel) or a Scotchbrite. They generally crack across the piston left to right, not front to rear, and tend to be close to centreline. Hopefully the bores are ok - they tend to last very well on these and Tdis. Look for the honing pattern on the bores. They’re likely to be a little worn, but if you can still see honing, they don’t need reboring unless you have a vertical score from some dirt or damaged pistons or rings. A rehone can be done in situ with the ball/bog-brush type honing brushes common in the US. Reboring is a professional shop job that needs a full engine strip, so fingers crossed it doesn’t need that. The heads on these engines are pretty tough, but nothing is indestructible, so have a good look for cracks from around the valve seats and hot spots. The hot spots are prone to cracking from their square corners (really, square corners are not a new engineering faux pas and they should have known better!), so if the cracks are significant or you have the common looseness of the hotspots in the head, it’s time for new. Timing belts are good for 72,000 miles or seven years, whichever comes first, if I remember correctly. I use 60,000 and five years, because they’re not that expensive but their failure is! Don’t even think about rebuilding an engine and using an old belt! For engine parts, I really wouldn’t go anywhere but Turner. They’re good on prices without ever compromising standards. It’s never worth getting the cheapest parts on engines or transmissions. I’d also recommend opening the oil pump and checking for wear of the gears, idler shaft and pressure relief parts. Renewing the spring and, if scored, the piston would be wise.
  28. 1 point
    Sumitomo HM090 6-way I can supply both the male and female connectors with terminals. PM me.
  29. 1 point
    I have 2 vehicles caged with what I call "use once and replace" and that is what this is what I'd call the one you're working on They'll do the job most of the time, will increase the chance of survival and then need replacing. Competition cages need to do their job over and over again so their design and construction is different, as it their intended use.. Very interesting post this
  30. 1 point
    I used to do alot of driveways and footpaths in a previous part of my job and where we were doing it we used to get heavy rain often, some of these might help Get accelerator or hardener (depends on where you are as to what they call it) it accelerates the curing process.... this will help cure it before the rain, but you have to be certain your up to the job if you do this Over fill the slab slightly, lol this is the worst issue we had, the amount of panels that would be 5+mm lower than they should have been When your finished fill a couple of wheel barrows so you have some extra to grab off to fill hollows, spay them with water and throw a tarp over and every 5 min's turn it over with a shovel when you've finished tamping it down, get a plank and "bounce" the plank on it to bring up a good amount of slurry the more you bring up the better, this was the next issue we used to have, not enough slurry ontop before the bull float so the float hooks the aggregate and have to waste time on the float, if its good I'll go over it 3 times with the float.... start in my finishing direction (side that has the best reach), I then go at 90 degrees (fill in any hollows, hope you looked after the concrete in the wheel barrows lol, if you have brought up enough slurry you can float the extra over these patch pieces so it levels nicely), have a breather or a drink and then float it again in the finish direction with a light hand drawing only 20min - half an hr come back and edge, if you see something wrong at this stage don't try and fix it you'll make a bigger mess, your better to polish it out in a couple of days time with a grinder I like Arjans suggestion for the recovery eye, I'll add that too mine when I get to it lol Water is good as Arjan has said problem is when its at the stage where its sort of warm,( the chemical process is happening) the water drops will separate the cement from the aggregate, I had access to Hydro excavators with high pressure pulsing lances so I used to use these to mist on water if we got strong sun and it was drying the top too fast I used the hardener, because we were doing patch panels (some of them up too 10 x 8m) they were part of a drive or footpaths so the rain would flow down them and we had appearance conditions we had to meet (like for like) so rain splatter marks like smallfry's or worse washout marks from flowing water were a fail and often ment rework, if its warm and there is no risk of rain you can get a retarder put in that will slow down the curing and give you more time to work the concrete Good luck
  31. 1 point
    The 3rd, 4th,5th part numbers are all for V8 engined vehicles, the casting number has no bearing on the part numbet
  32. 1 point
    Cheer's guys, I've put its first 100 miles on it now and had a couple of issues with the 2a whilst driving it the main issue was what Snagger said a short while ago and that the gearing mite be too high due to me having an HRTC fitted to the gearbox and Disco 3.54-1 diffs fitted which it was a hell of a lot, and with all this fitted before Snagger mentioned it I just wanted to see for myself first before I removed everything then later wondered what if, anyway I have now replaced the rear diff for a 4.7-1 diff in the rear which is one of the original diff that was fitted to the 2a when I bought it and that seems to have sorted it and will refit the front later and the other issue is the new speedo cable has snapped so I will have to get another one now ☹️
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    From the serial number I can see manufacture date and where originally installed if it's not a grey import so if you can read it just post it up
  35. 1 point
    How long is the bellhousing from face to face? The LT77 and R380 V8 bellhousings are almost identical except that the R380 version is 1” shorter.
  36. 1 point
    Disco 2's are very good vehicles. But very much a traditional 4x4 with live axles and ladder chassis. This makes them pretty robust and durable for mixed use. They won't ride the best nor give a car like driving experience. But they are fully capable on the road. ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement) is truly impressive on them. They should feel like a step up from a Defender, but with a similar feel about them. They do have some electronics, but by and large all fairly simply and few things to truly stop you getting anywhere. Some have rear air suspension, which can be a bonus, but isn't a must have. Do watch for some chassis rot and leaking ACE pipes. As well as leaky sunroofs. Td5's are nice engines, although a bit of slug when coupled to an auto. The V8 is more juicy, but smoother, faster and more refined. However manual V8's are rare. The D3 is a superb bit of kit. But a totally different ballgame. It is a very different type of vehicle, much bigger and heavier and far more car like to drive. The Independent suspension make them ride quite differently and feel very different in the corners. They lack ACE however and can feel a bit rolly compared to a sorted D2. But they are vastly more complex in terms of electronics with a lot more that could potentially go wrong. The only manual in the D3 is with the 2.7 TDV6, however most are utter base spec models. Which is a shame as they don't have air suspension (they have independent coil) and you don't get the full Terrain Response system. Although on road you may not notice either of these things.
  37. 1 point
    Writing as an interested observer, some confustion is being generated here, by the apparently conjoined mentions of two different devices. One, the frequency converter, is intended to change single phase to three phase. The other, a Variable Frequency Device, is shown via the link to enable control of the speed of a three phase motor. As such it requires a 3 phase input. I do not know, but have no certainty that a Frequency Converter would supply the correct input to a VFD, IF that was what is being suggested. Writing just in case anyone else is having the same confusion. Regards
  38. 1 point
    Great stuff Ralph, thank you very much indeed.
  39. 1 point
    It stretches the diff casing slightly so the diff can be pulled out more easily. Without it you are into lever bars to remove, and large fubber mallet to reinstall, but perfectly doable.
  40. 1 point
    Oh dear, the defender is now an alternative to the x-trail.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    What that does not cover though is the fact you cannot sell a 'chassis cab' if it is a unibody design. Now I know people are going to say that Land Rover are not aiming for the commercial market but ...... Fitting cherry pickers/Workshop bodies (thinking Quadtek)/Tipping bodies/Dropsides is going to be impossible so that market is gone. UKPN and a lot of the other utilities companies had big fleets of Defenders. I don't think you will see them buying any new ones
  43. 1 point
    Check that the tube in the chassis hasn't been eaten away by tinworm. Also check for cracks around the tube as it's not unheard of in that area. The only good option for a satisfactory repair (assuming the tube is at fault and it's not a badly made bush) is to have a new tube welded in, or if it's sound but simply worn slightly over-size, you may get away with fitting poly bushes as they don't rely on a tight tolerance interference fit. You won't get a shim in that'll last and won't do more harm, and welding the outer can of the bush in is a bodge of heroic proportions!
  44. 1 point
    Well, @Escape does like saving weight. But this might be pushing it a bit We've set a deadline, so let's hope this one doesn't whoosh by.
  45. 1 point
    As a point of reference, this was still (miraculously) driving fine despite the front pinion bearing having totally collapsed: https://youtu.be/8RyXD-9V9nU If you look carefully, you'll see bits of smashed up roller in the stinking, oily mud It's a Rover type, but you get the idea. It was from a bodged five speed into 88" install where the rear prop ended up about 6" long, and had been heavily off-roaded with seemingly zero maintenance. I expect your clonk may be some accumulated wear in something, meaning the mesh isn't right and the gears are suffering. Quick job to pop the cover off on a salisbury and take a peek. A healthy one has about a degree or two of play between the tooth mesh back and forth on the pinion.
  46. 1 point
    So i had the truck on a job near Inveraray last week which involved some soaking wet grass, gravel tracks and a bit of heavy mud. The tyres handled it no bother and it's such a nice feeling to be able to confidently enter into a dodgy area knowing there's a good chance i'm going to come back out again. Also had it in a wet field over the weekend and again no issues. It wasn't the toughest of off-roading but certainly challenging enough. I drove about 350 miles on the road to get to Inveraray as well and everything is a lot more refined than the old 265s. Chuffed with my purchase so far. The only problem i had was a knackered UJ after sitting at 60mph for a couple of hours but that's replaced now.
  47. 1 point
    Slowly making progress with the fridge drop slide, got a cold from the kids, back to work and the boss working night shifts, only a hour here and there the past few days but it's nearly done. One mistake I made was the securing pin, I was securing two moving parts together.....LOL Now that I see what I did wrong I will weld 2 tabs tomorrow that will secure the fridge tray to the platform in the landy. This short video I made myself, one hand with the cell phone and the other running the drop slide through it's paces which was secure and easy enough to do with just one hand. Later in the week I'll tear it all down again (must be the 20th time so far) to give it a final coat of paint. In a nutshell, that's it, my DIY fridge drop slide is done. Todd.
  48. 1 point
    ^^^^ yeah the Detroit rear/Truetrac front is a common fitment The main benefit being fit and forget and automatic action The main gripe with Detroit is it is an Unlocker technically, so is always locked, which could in the worst case scenario provide undesirable rear axle characteristics, ie muddy side slope it will promote more wheel slip and hence sideways axle slip, the benefit of being unlocked is you are allowing the wheels to seek out maximum traction and not promoting them to break it, like any locked diff does. Helical type/Torsen diffs really are the best all rounder, and from then each diff type can be accurately placed along a scale, trading between not forcing wheels to break traction at the open diff end and not allowing wheels to give away/waste any available drive at the welded/locked/spool diff end...
  49. 0 points
    Now I know why 😂 thanks 👍 I did bridge the wires at the ecu plug and gauge did go to hot when I earthed it out, as I have no ecu tried wiring it in via think was green yellow today at the gauge earth out went to hot so put on temp sender took for a drive to get up to temp but broke down spent the next two hours waiting for the AA🙄
  50. 0 points
    No time hombre got a tight deadline to keep, I've let the supplier know, just spent the last 2 hrs straightening it out, paint is just drying. - harder than it looks to get that thing back perpendicular.

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