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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Well it’s taken me a while but finally started putting it back together. No. 4 had a cracking bend in it so I’ve taken the chance to change them all as well as pretty much everything I can well I have access to it. Taking ages, but learning allot and enjoying the process. Thanks for all the help.
  2. 4 points
    So winter viruses have gone ! And at the start of the week I made a list of what I thought was left to do.... What I missed was the washer bottle and door buffers.... The LED inserts have gone in and work brilliantly - I tried to take a picture with them lit up, but it didn’t work... here’s the insides though. The top half flashes red for indicators, the bottom half does the rear lights, both increase brightness for brake lights (if I’ve remembered it right) and a downward facing set light the number plate and rear badge. The heater is going to be tight under the passenger seat - but fits and makes the pipe work for it pretty simple. The seats are in 😊 The heated seat switches will go on the outside corner of the seat box, they should be easy to operate and small enough that they won’t be getting bashed and switched by accident. I’d forgotten that my 80” came without the standard tank guard. So a galv one of those came an Sunday was painted and fitted ... The oil blanking plate I’d fitted on the filter housing was leaking, so that’s been fixed - and the tappers have been done with new collets fitted. The wipers and indicator switch are fitted and wired up. And if anyone remembers, we’d altered the gearbox tunnel shape on the bulkhead to make a bit more space for the engine and starter motor. Here the front face has been cut and lifted to retain the original fold. And so this is sort of how we are looking.... more to follow shortly hopefully. getting there !
  3. 3 points
    Best Defender engine. That is funny. Let's be realistic. They are all carp. All much too small That is why Land Rover lost the market. The inability to put proper engines in their vehicles.
  4. 3 points
  5. 2 points
    Got some more figures today , outside temperature was 5.8 c moving, 6.6c stationary in a shed but an open one no doors . So accelerating hard to 60mph , in was 88c and out was 8.3c . Town style driving 36.8 in and2.6 out that was doing 40mph .
  6. 2 points
    New WB turned up today. It’s LSU 4.9 and is a direct replacement for the innovate supplied LC2 Bosch sensor. Here is the dud one. I don’t suppose there is any chance of revival. Managed to calibrate and then fit. Took it for a drive and let TunerStudio make some adjustments. No more bogging under load. Very impressed at the auto tune facility and how you can actually feel the differences..... So issues that need sorting. When engine is warm and restarts. The revs fluctuate all over the place by 2/300 rpm until the temp raises again. The cost of Unleaded..... Stumble off idle need to look at the enrichment settings. So what should I do next, and should I fix the above with the PWM removed?? oh and how does it drive... It's possibly the quietest and smoothest 90 I’ve been in. At 30mph it whispers along with only the tyre roar and a slightly more diff noise from the HD Crown wheel and Pinion than you normally get. The LSD’s make it straighten up quick out of a corner. There are no squeaks or bangs or worrying noises. If you boot it it drops down some gears and then roars off. The hood makes hood noises. The suspension is firm and typically 90, choppy... I think I will do a little vid and try and capture the V8 auto experience. It’s such a relaxed drive I’m chuffed..
  7. 2 points
    Quick update. Following a slightly more spirited drive to work this morning involving a few more hills the oil cooler does appear to be working as it should ( sigh of relief! ) Thank you everybody for the helpfull suggestions.
  8. 2 points
    I think I would be in the runnng for the most 'Stupid' questions asked, so you have plenty leeway, - but I seem to be tolerated - and these might be the finest bunch of people we know!
  9. 2 points
    If you're still alive when you read this then you'll probably be okay. If you do start to feel unwell, go and see the vet, you don't need to make an appointment and unlike the NHS the vet will will not keep you waiting for 4 or more hours. If he does give you something for your symptoms you may get a craving for Markies and gravy bones and possibly for the odd tin of Pedigree Chum but this should soon wear off. Only other thing is, don't bite anyone! 😛
  10. 2 points
    Today I sat and added up the receipts for insurance purposes. Xcess 4x4 namely Nigel appears as one of my main beneficiaries..... I always feel guilty going there. I take up his valuable time and leave financially broke.
  11. 2 points
    oh thats a bit bendy, glad your enjoying the strip/rebuild, its the best way to learn & total satisfaction when its done & running. don't be afraid to ask even if you think its a 'stupid' question, we won't bite your head off, we all had to start somewhere.
  12. 2 points
    Hey Wheely, I find that gauges are great and important but there some habits that are just as important..... check your oil and water levels each morning, this quickly gives you an indication of any potential problems. check under your vehicle every morning, look for new leaks, loose things, bolts with shiny spots around the head (shows you bolt is loose and vibrating), don't be shy to put a hand onto things and give them a wiggle any time you stop check your wheel bearing temps by hand, if you driving hard on the open road at 100+kmh you should still be able to touch your wheel hub without it burning you, and if you find left side hotter than right side you have an early warning. have spare oils, brake fluid etc with you, but don't let some drips under the gearbox or transfer case make you try and fill your gearbox each day, it takes a lot of "drips" to make it worth it to open the box and top up..... only to find that less than 50ml goes in... and above all, enjoy, if you break down you won't be the first, or the last, so enjoy the african hospitality, smiling faces and helpful people and when you get back on the road you will have a story to tell....
  13. 2 points
    I have done a number of expeditions in and across Africa including summer Algerian Sahara crossings. Standard equipment and gauges are fine. Just keep an eye on them. A well maintained vehicle is much more important. You can always find something to spend money on! Good luck. Regards, Diff.
  14. 2 points
    My new Mudstuff panel arrived today, had a test fit of the panel only just to see what I need to relocat, think I can get away with leaving the amatuer radio in its current place, phone cradle can be moved to the side of the new centre panel, the new cd/radio may go in the very top slot or upper part of the lower recess.
  15. 2 points
    To round this off, I got my fittings from Automec. Less than half the price from a LR specialist. Fantastic. For anyone [like me] who might be having a hard time figuring out what size the fitting is, it's M10 x 1mm and the Automec product code is HU106, and the locking nut is LNB2.
  16. 2 points
    Some pics from yesterday. Mike
  17. 2 points
    If you are a complete novice then I recommend a couple of hours spent picking through the relevent Classic Car SOUP videos from Shackleton/George on utube, at the end of the day it will depend on how well equipped you are and how much time you can spend on it. The car will be off the road for a little while probably, so a second vehicle would help. Bear in mind that the visible problem is generally only a part of what really needs doing. But we love to see people having a go and can usually help with advice, perhaps start by getting a quote for the work and then judge whether or not you could save a bit doing it for yourself.
  18. 2 points
    I made a number plate bracket out of a piece of aluminium. It’s bolted to the rear of the Husky and should still allow flow to the rad. Lots of little jobs left to do. Still waiting for my V5 back before I can MOT and and tax. Plus the O2 sensor for the LC2 is showing a fault. I do intend to just use the LC2 to get it tuned and then swap it for a NB.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Finally, tap off the sprue with the punch. Job done. A good solid repair. Torque to spec and forget. This can be done in less than 10 minutes. I ended up doing all six, as I was unhappy with the level of engagement when I tightened the rest up. Took 40 minutes, I think.
  21. 1 point
    Oh yes - please keep it coming !
  22. 1 point
    On the Autosparks loom question, I have their main/dash & 200tdi engine looms in my 110, also have a 110 chassis loom that I must get around to fitting this summer, they are a perfect match to the factory LR looms, & I would buy again.
  23. 1 point
    As Escape says, it's not an unusual failure, but I think it's seen more often now that AGM batteries are more common (as your UPS batteries will be). I think it's not that the AGM batteries are less reliable, but rather they work so well that the gradual degradation isn't noticed until the battery completely fails to deliver on it's job. A while back the Ibex failed to start on first crank one evening. Cranked as normal, but didn't catch on the first few compressions as it usually does. On the second turn of the key it failed to turn over at all. After a bit of investigation I built a proper automated battery test rig, and was surprised to find the Optima battery could only deliver 14Ah, against the spec of 55Ah. Not surprising, it was a few years old, but I had no idea the battery was degraded at all - in normal use the tdi cranked over perfectly well and started in all weathers right up to the day it couldn't. Being an AGM battery with very low internal resistance, it could still easily deliver the required cranking power for a short burst, it just couldn't sustain the effort. My impression is that wet plate batteries often failed with rising internal resistance as one of the symptoms, so slow cranking and marginal starting were more obvious symptoms as the battery aged. I tried a few of the recovery regimes that are out there, desulphation etc. as a lot of smart chargers implement. Over the course of a few weeks, I got the battery back to about 34Ah, then I threw it away. A new replacement Optima was close, but didn't quite meet it's advertised spec. Interestingly the 7 year old orignal battery in my D3 when I bought it was still delivering well over 90% of it's advertised capacity. My UPS runs a load test cycle regularly, and flags up if the batteries are failing to deliver a useable runtime. It also seems to flag the batteries as failed automatically after a couple of years, regardless of condition. I change them when their time is up and I reckon the failure rate in batteries I've taken out is around 50%, though I only remember once having to change them because the UPS failed the load test run.
  24. 1 point
    The pumps give maximum fueling during starting. When they get over around 500 rpm, fly weights are meant to move the spool to the idle location. When they sit, the spool gets stuck and it just sits there at maximum fueling output. Fill the pump directly with diesel fuel conditioner and let it sit. It usually fixes the problem after a few flushes.
  25. 1 point
    The seat base foam and cover from a passenger seat fits the drivers side and couldnt be easier to fit...


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