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  1. 7 likes
    Ok, So there is a thread on U/J quality in the international forum were people are mentioning short lives of their U/J, and questioning their quality. Of course, a genuine U/J generally lives longer than a cheap replacement. But In my experience, there is more to it. Mainly maintenance; how often do you grease your U/Js? And the next question is than how is it done. Before you all think I teaching you to suck eggs I will expand on this a bit more: Problem I found is that one grease nipple is serving 4 bearings. In reality, this means that the grease tend to find the route with the least resistance. This usually means you are effectively greasing 1 or 2 bearings only. And what about the others? They are dry as a bone and fall apart. To combat this, I thought about it, and came up with a method that I will show you here. It is rather involved, but I have not changed a U/J in 10 years. Here we go: First off, grease as you would normally. You can see which bearing gets grease, as it pours past the seal: The ones that dont get any grease need feeding as well. You can do this by pressing the bearing which has already been greased against the crosspiece like so: This now should stop the flow of grease to the already greased bearing, and find the next passage with the lowest resistance. If you still have other bearings that have no grease coming out, you can add a G-clamp with a nut, to press 2 opposed bearing cups against the cross piece. keep repeating this process until all bearing cups have grease coming out. This process is rather fiddly, but as mentioned, since I started doing it this way, I have had no failures. I have done this with the props on the car and using 2 opposed G-clamps. Also, the blue grease is better in my experience, as it does not go solid like the yellow stuff (which I am using here, unfortunately). Hope that helps, and have fun greasing these things! Daan
  2. 5 likes
    Had a look just now, I've placed six orders with Island 4x4 in total, the first one going back to 2011. All shipped to Ireland and all arrived without issue. I like Island 4x4. Dear Island 4x4. It's great that you came on to respond. You haven't addressed the actual problem though so it reads more like you came just to say "sod off". Not good for business. If the OP had gotten some communication from you he might not have posted in the first place. A simple "we're sorry we didn't get back to you in good time and we're making every effort to make sure our sales support is top notch", shows professionalism and that you care about each and every one of your customers - even if you hate the OP's guts and you're not doing squat to up your communication game. That little bit of acknowledgement would give you the chance of having his custom again, and that of anyone else who sympathises with him. Judging by their website, the OP is a member of a very active and motivated club. It doesn't matter how many parts you send around the world if your prospective customers feel as though there's no guarantee they'll hear from you again once the order is placed. I've had no reason to doubt your service in the past, but when it comes to placing another order, of course I'll have question whether your the right supplier. Before you tell me to sod off, I've written this because I'd like to know you're there when I need stuff, not because I want to have a go. George
  3. 4 likes
    Ok, A friend made me aware of my appearance on the shortlist of the LRO calendar - twice! So I you have a moment spare please vote for me... And maybe have my landy as a pin up of the month! Daan
  4. 4 likes
    You don't want bar grips. I drove the 109 to Russia and back on (sort of) bar grips - actually 9.00x16 Petlas: Dirtydiesel was ahead of me in the convoy in a 300TDi RRC with no interior/soundproofing, he said he spent hours on the road trying to find the odd noise his truck was making - dipping the clutch, turning things on & off, etc. etc... eventually we pulled into a petrol station, and as I rolled to a halt behind him he realised it was my tyres he could hear!
  5. 3 likes
    Personally I stay away for the boost pin idea. It's an Audi 2.5 profile. Dumping a shed load of fuel into a diesel will produce power and black smoke (not really power but feels like it). But its not good for the engine longevity and the power spread is messed up. With careful tweaking it's easy to get the same power gains but still have longevity - but that takes time and effort
  6. 3 likes
    I had the head off to do the gasket on mine so gave it a clean up of the ports, reckon ive got as much as - oh 69 to 70 hp now.
  7. 3 likes
    Fitted the SP front doors yesterday whilst son was on a job then when he came back he painted them but still need another coat yet and I forgot all about posting the pic's of the rear door fitted and painted so here are a few pic's
  8. 3 likes
    To me, it's like Marsians talking.... But looks interesting !
  9. 3 likes
    Ghastly looking thing, I've put a pitchfork in the back of the 90 in case one comes near. Mo
  10. 3 likes
    Is there a term for that sort of slightly-trashy-but-trying-to-be-suave-but-overall-too-glossy-until-it-finally-misses-the-point style of automotive design usually favoured by Asian car companies trying to move upmarket but unable to understand terms such as "style" and "restraint"? (So that a 30-year-old Jaguar still looks classy and refined in comparison.) If not, then a word should be coined to describe this move by JLR into further suburban mediocrity.
  11. 2 likes
    Crikey Gary. That's three years to notice that post!
  12. 2 likes
    Ive just noticed the comments , I'm still here to help with any issues. cheers Gary
  13. 2 likes
    The first picture is the tightening sequence. The second is the loosening sequence. They are the same in reverse. You can reuse them, but I wouldn't unless you don't have time to buy new ones.
  14. 2 likes
    Any sports or free flow filter will be junk for your requirements, it needs to be paper I'm afraid, the original airbox was very good, if you can find one I would go with it.
  15. 2 likes
    My fu tells me resized to 1024px as largest dimension. This will bring most jpgs under 300kb, so with a 10MB limit per post it is easily achievable. Geoff posted a while ago, that there is now an image proxy running, so only smaller images get served, so we may also be seeing that in action. That or the DC_ did a great job resizing before upload, like a good boy
  16. 2 likes
    This has been going on for years, but this is a bit much. I was just reading about this: http://robisonservice.blogspot.com.au/2017/05/the-future-of-collectible-land-rovers.html and thought the prices were pretty funny. Stupid Americanos will spend anything to get a Defender and various companies have been taking advantage of this. Any American could just take a buying holiday in Europe and import their own car, but from what I've come across over the years the outside world is too scary and so they'd rather pay stupid amounts for something available domestically. When I lived in Canada for a bit, I was very close to starting a Land Rover business shamelessly exploiting catering for this lucrative market. I've always wondered just how many British stolen cars and parts have wound up over there.
  17. 2 likes
    Ah, self-flagellation at JLR; what could be better? It's not just the sheer shopping centre banality of what they make that gets me, it's the way I can't tell what is a Land Rover, or which one is which. Perhaps there is a market for a WWII-style recognition charts?
  18. 2 likes
    Yes - its the yokes that will not align by roughly 5 degrees, the nose of the diff does angle very slightly upwards due to the King set up, but no more that the tray back used to and that was fine with a normal rear prop in, looks like I picked up a old dog one TBH, the one from Gwyn was ordered late Friday and it arrived by 11am this morning cant ask for better than that
  19. 2 likes
    yes, this is possible. I am a farmer myself and this is why and how I know that it is possible: I reclassified a 1998 landrover defender 90 , 300 tdi (2.5 litre) from a commercial vehicle to a agricultural tractor. I did this because I took on a 16 year old employee and this would be his method of transport to and from work. I do have to pay some tax on the vehicle per year and this vehicle is not allowed to travel more than 10 miles away from my farm, luckily my apprentice lives 8.5 miles ish away. I run this on white diesel because he lives in a town next to a police station! it is limited to 60kmh ( jcb fastrac speed) it cost me about 286£ to reclassify the vehicle and my 16 year old apprentice can drive it on a tractor license, but apart from a good reason like this, it is not worth the hassle to change it. I hope this was helpful!
  20. 2 likes
    I am retiring in a few weeks. I am looking forward to having time to get my 110 Defender back on the road and using it to explore the back roads and trails of Nova Scotia. I was completely gobsmacked when my wife came out with this cake! It took about 7 hours to make and is about 18" long and 10" high. The canoe mirrors a cedar strip that I built that will look great on the truck's roof. The details are amazing. Nice bow wave!! The cake was tasty too!! Cheers, C
  21. 2 likes
    All I had to do on mine was rotate the gear stick slightly on the splines. Pull the rubber gator up and you'll see the nut which secures the gearstick to the selector.
  22. 2 likes
    http://www.icengineworks.com/
  23. 2 likes
    That is clearly your opinion John, which I do not agree with. I had the original series transmission behind the 300 for approx 5 years only to get rid of it because I was fed up with the constant leaking which was destroying my paved driveway. It is the driver who will determine the fate of the transmission.
  24. 2 likes
    iiiits Turbotime! Finally could no longer resist slapping the Turbo from the old 1,6TD engine on, have been wanting to try my hands at turboing a carburetted petrol for many years now. And what better car to try it on, than my very own Lab-Rat? Firstly I found the best location for the Turbo and made some exhaust tube to connect it all, and a support from the intake to avoid breaking the exhaust manifold from all the extra weight: To my happy surprise the cast iron down pipe was easy enough to weld: Kept everything as much inboard as possible: And got both the water and oil lines for the Turbo hooked up: And finally a little video of the nice Turbo whine: This was obviously the easy part, now comes fitting a wastegate (none on the Turbo anymore, i lobbed it off ) making the pressure side and fitting a dumpvalve. And then somehow making that Britpart Carb run properly with boost going through it! If this fails though, I always have the option of fitting a carb in front of the turbo instead. Would actually negate the need for a dumpvalve as well but might affect throttle response, low RPMs and startup. So we'll see how it all ends up.
  25. 1 like
    The small hose out of the top of the "lower" inlet manifold (by the temp sender) is supposed to be plumbed to a small heating block under the plenum throttle butterfly, and then out to the top of the rad.
  26. 1 like
    More likely the servo is leaking of the inlet filter is plugged. You need to test with a vacuum pump and gauge both items and not just randomly replace things.
  27. 1 like
  28. 1 like
    I was doing the exact same job on Sunday afternoon I've had some bearing noise for a week or so, but couldn't find any play or excess heat in any wheel. On Sunday morning the light noise became an ominous noise and a lot of heat in the osf wheel. Drove carefully the 50 miles or so home and I reckon I only just made it. There was loads of play and I could feel the wheel move in the corners! The inner bearing cage fell apart when I removed the hub, and the inner race is welded to the stub axle. There was plenty of grease in there and the outer bearing was clean and intact, so there was probably either some contamination got in there or it just died of old age. It's probably 10 years and well over 100k since I last changed the bearings. It was too hot and I had to work outside in the farmyard, so for speed I robbed a stub axle from the 'other' Ibex (in slow build, so it doesn't really need them at the moment!). I'd be a bit wary of bending the brake pipe like that unless I was changing it anyway - too easy to kink or fracture it. Every time I've ever worked in there I've intended to slot the mounting bracket at the same time to save messing about with the swivel pin in the future. Somehow after 15 years I still haven't done it though
  29. 1 like
    To illustrate differences... Pre-2002 version (note tube runs at top of wheelboxes): Post-2002 version (just visible is the wheelbox 'upside down' and big bulge in the dash where the motor hides):
  30. 1 like
    Your issue is, with a D3, that it weighs slightly more than the Titanic, so to legally tow the max (or have the potential to) you can't actually carry anything heavier than a down filled pillow and a small Jack Russell
  31. 1 like
    Can we establish that the 4.2 came from a running vehicle & that you or your father saw it running with no issues and that the hotwire system came from a similar source?
  32. 1 like
    Sadly these will be the last pic's of the 90 finished ready for being taken out to have its adverting pic's done ready for selling
  33. 1 like
    Hi Guys, I've just joined the forum on the back of this thread as I found it very useful... So thanks to all the guys on here, especially cipx2 for the picture. Using the information you provided it took me only 20 minutes to replace the tensioner & belt... bobbling tensioner and associated squeak problem solved. Thanks again!
  34. 1 like
    Hi Simone, if you do want to use a paint similar to Galvafroid there is a supplier of zinc-rich paint in Ghana, we've used it for painting external steel beams on buildings and also for covering welding repairs to machinery, the finish looks like galvanising once dried. I'll ask at work where they bought it from if that helps?
  35. 1 like
    Having never bled an auto gearbox before I didn't know if I was missing a trick in how to bleed the system,turns out it was just I missed the slot on the valve block body to align the selector...you live and learn I guess
  36. 1 like
    Thanks. I was just using that link for reference so I knew what you were talking about lol
  37. 1 like
    Loos like the linkage under the valve block wasn't aligned properly locking it into first gear..I'll finish it tomorrow and hopefully update with good news
  38. 1 like
    OK, I'll stick my neck out... I think you are probably over-thinking all this. It sounds like you are quite wedded to a compound setup, but have you thought about just running a single VNT? A compound setup gets awfully complex and loads of huge pipework in a small engine bay, yet you are going quite conservative on the power front? Another option to consider may be a twin scroll turbo? They have better pickup at low revs. Modern turbo's are much better that what was available back in the 90s so I am sure you can improve things from stock very easily. Just thinking out loud
  39. 1 like
    sorry its defender 110 sw 1991
  40. 1 like
    Surely with no/low boost until 1500rpm you're not getting the V8 drivability? I'm with Mr Sparkes on this, exhaust is not super critical compared to other factors. Also, Mercedes have more time & money than you and they designed the original manifold like that...
  41. 1 like
  42. 1 like
    That's fitted to a sprinter single mass aftermarket flywheel and sprinter pressure plate, which the tdi driven plate conveniently fits nicely
  43. 1 like
    There are some some of the lithium power banks you see for phones now offering 12V jump start capabilities or https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Cell-Phone-Portable-Power-Bank-Chargers/XTPower-XT-16000QC2-Power-Bank-connection/B01JZA76B6/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1496066762&sr=8-15&keywords=12v+lithium+battery and found https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chafon-Cf-UPS008-Uninterruptible-Activities-Long-Function-Yellow/dp/B00U5YWKOK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1496066762&sr=8-6&keywords=12v+lithium+battery Which can be charged off 12v or solar panels.
  44. 1 like
    I'm using '98 suffix L r380 which is now in bits on my bench. It's getting bigger 5th/reverse end bearings plus all usual rebuild parts, lt230 is getting sleeved casing and Ashcroft lsd centre diff. The spline engagement is indeed much longer than those failed ones.
  45. 1 like
    lol thanks Davo! Starting to get itchy for a drive of something un-modern at this stage!
  46. 1 like
    I wouldn't do that - any significant movement of the transmission on its mounts would likely knock the transfer box out of gear. I think you'd be much better off doing it how you did before, or using a bracket from the belhousing.
  47. 1 like
    I use Gojacks every day and they are superb. For hobby use I would buy or make skates. A fraction of the price.
  48. 1 like
    Here's a guy done a P38 conversion without welding on a galvy chassis. The post you want is about halfway down the page. http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/148109/mercedes-land-rover-over-years?page=3 The P38 box does seemto be the best way to do it on a Series motor.
  49. 1 like
    I have finished my PAS installation on my 109. It uses P38 box, pump and lower column and Defender upper column, switches and steering wheel. For those interested in how it was done and what it looks like, you can see the work here: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/category/steering/ (the posts go over two index pages in reverse chronological order, so use the next/previous tags to see all the posts). The axles were previously transplanted, so the front axle is a Discovery unit converted for leaf springs, and the engine is a Discovery 200Tdi with Defender manifolds and turbo. There is a Kelowe Hotstart sitting above the timing case (aircon pump mounts), which is behind the PAS pump and is the reason for the slightly unconventional pump bracket.
  50. 1 like
    This has to be one of the dirtiest, oiliest, jobs you can do on any Land Rover - re-building the front hub. Vehicle is a V8 Disco, not that it matters, as this is the same throughout the range - from a Series one downwards In this case, the swivel pins had worn, and as a result - a kind of chain reaction starts - excessive play caused by the pins wearing then causes the oil/swivel grease, to leak out of the housing - generally onto the inside tyre wall, and then around the wheel arch. As the level drops inside the housing - the top swivel bearing becomes starved of lubricant, and starts to break-up/ accellerate wear. The gap between the seal and swivel housing that lets oil out, now lets water in, and corrosion starts on expensive things such as CV joint and swivel housing. Symptoms of worn swivel pin bearings will be a clunk whenever you change direction. If you jack the wheel off the ground and try to rock it by grasping the wheel in the 12 and 6 o-clock position. If the wheel 'knocks' when you do this, then swivel pins are the culprit. Having identified the problem, it's time to get down and dirty First pic is what you might think is just one more oil leak, but in fact you are looking at around a hundred quid. You're gonna wish you did something about this sooner! Jack up the vehicle and remove the road wheel, turn the steering hard left, and remove the 19mm nut and then washer that retains the steering drag link in the hub assembly. Use a ball joint removal tool, or strike the arm close to where the track rod end is with a hammer. After a few blows the joint will seperate. On closer inspection you might see that the swivel housing is pitted/rusty. Trying to cut corners and still use the old one is a waste of time as the abrasive nature will quickly ruin the new seal, and far better to rebuild the hub assembly properly and know that it'll be ok for a few years to come. You will need to methodically strip the entire hub right down to the end of the axle tube - so brake caliper, brake pipes, brake disc, driveshaft assembly, swivel housing, and 'chrome ball' will have to come off. Caliper off first - held in place by two 12-point 13mm bolts. These will be very tight, so make sure the socket you use is a good fit. The upper bolt head in particular sits in a recess that can't be got at by usual methods. Tap the socket onto the bolt before attemting to undo it. There are two short steel brake pipes that go from the top of the swivel housing to the bottom of the caliper. They will have to be removed as they restrict access to the two upper swivel pin bolts. On this vehicle they were very rusty and one broke. Remove the caliper and put it to one side. The two bolts are very similar to the 7 that hold the hub assembly to the axle, so keep them seperate. The top swivel pin, and the bracket where the brake hoses are secured and connect to two steel pipes. Drive flange next - prise off the rubber hub cap and the end of the driveshaft can be seen with a circlip and a few shims keeping it in position on the shaft. External circlip pliers and the clip and shims will come off. Udo the 6x17mm bolts and the flange will come off. Unforunately my camera is playing up, so I've lost about 3-pictures, but once the drive flange is removed you will be able to see the two nuts that keep the brake disc on the stub axle. Bend back the tab washer and remove the outer nut, then remove the tab washer and remove the second nut. DON't use a chisel/blunt screwdriver/Pair of long-nosed Mole grips to undo these nuts, considering the cost of the parts to do this job, the £7 cost of the correct box spanner is quite small. Anyway, with the disc now off, you are left with the stub axle. Next is the flimsy back plate. At the top it is hooked over a tab that is part of the brake pipe bracket, and then the steering lock stop nut, and by an M6 nut/bolt at the very bottom. There's a drain plug (centre of picture) 11mm spanner will undo it to drain the remaining lubricant out of the swivel housing. With the backplate out of the way, the drain plug can be removed. Nothing is left to drain out - not surprising really. Remove these 6x17mm bolts in order to remove the stub axle. Once undone, the stub axle and then the driveshaft unit can be removed. Now to the rear of the swivel housing, and the seal, which is held in by a plate that has 6 x m8 bolts that have to be removed. Camera failure again! The bottom swivel pin is retained by two Torx bolts that also holds some odd kind of counterweight thing. The bolts are tight, so be careful when trying to undo them. The top pin is held by two 17mm bolts, and once both pins have been removed, the housing assembly will come off. The two pin bearings are badly worn, the one on the right is the upper one, but the lack of grease and presence of water has caused damage to the lower one as well. If by any chance your chrome ball is still ok, then you now need to remove the bearing tracks. Having the ball still bolted to the axle makes this a lot easier. A suitable drift and a hammer will get them out. Finally down to the ball itself. This is held to the axle tube by 7 x 14mm 12-point bolts, and they are mental tight - in fact most people don't have enough veins in their forehead or knowledge of Anglo Saxon (well, except Bathtub ) No room for sockets here, so make sure the spanner is a very snug fit, and either use the method here to increase leverage, or some other way. Using the two-spanner method is ok, but they must be kept in line - they can slip very easily otherwise. Finally all is stripped down, and the end of the axle tube is all you should be able to see. All the parts needed to do the job. Chrome ball is now a Teflon coated ball, it's seal that prevets swivel Lube from mixing with axle oil, swivel to axle gasket, Ball oil seal, swivel pins, shims, and pin bearings, plus tube of One Shot grease. About £120 from aftermarket supplier. First thing - press or carefully drift the pin bearing tracks into the ball. Then press the oil seal into the inboard end of the ball, making sure you put it in the right way round. Stick a new gasket to the axle tube with grease, put the swivel seal on the ball - also making sure it's the right way round, then the seal retainer. The ball fixing holes are in a singular pattern, so it'll only go on the one way. Use threadlock on the bolts and do them up really tight - they are all that's holding the entire front wheel assembly on the vehicle. Take some time to clean all the bits that you are going to use again - there'll be plenty of grit around that could end-up where it's not wanted. The swivel housing can now go on. Grease the previoulsy fitted bearing tracks, and place the upper bearing in place. The bottom one has to be placed where it'll eventually be held by the lower pin. Then 'hook' the lower bearing into it's seat and slide the top forward over the upper bearing. Place the top swivel pin in place and it'll stop it all from falling apart as soon as you let go. The swivel pre-load has now to be set, which makes quite a difference to the steering feel of the vehicle if not done properly. A good rule of thumb is to use the same shims that I took off, and go from there. Out of the 6-that were on it originally, I ended-up removing 4. The driveshaft assembly can be re-fitted, new gasket, and then stub axle. The 6 x 17mm bolts need to be threadlocked as well. Put a layer of grease on the new ball, then place the new seal in the housing - followed by the retainer and it's 8mm bolts. Note that the retainer will only go in one position. It's also worth mentioning that in severe cases, the main seal housing is badly corroded, which can let oil or grease out. If the corrosion is bad, then a thin bead of RTV sealant can be used. Slide the disc assembly back on the stub axle, re-fit the two nuts using a new tab washer When replacing the drive flange you might notice that the end of the drive shaft is inside the flange. Do up 4 bolts and use the fifth to pull the driveshaft out in order for the shims and then circlip to be re-fitted. The thread of the bolt is different from the thread in the hole, but you can 'hook' the thread to do this job, by pressing the bolt downwards as well as outwards. Once the circlip is on, fit the sixth bolt, apply some grease to the end of the shaft, and pop the hub cap back on. Replace the caliper and make sure that the two retaining bolts are very tight. Finally - the two brake pipes that I broke are replaced by cupro-nickel ones and 4 x M10 fine male fittings. Bleed the system using an assistant or an eezi-bleed system Reconnect the steering drag link, and replace the road wheel. Les.