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Showing most liked content since 04/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    I nearly wet myself, this is so bang on the mark: https://sniffpetrol.com/2018/04/24/boom-times-for-companies-that-completely-ruin-land-rover-defenders/
  2. 5 points
    Spent my sunday morning get this kit fitted, in all a easy job, hardest part was drilling/tapping the 4 holes to M3 for the control box screws. I found the loom plenty long enough for a RHD 90/110, the slider as shown in the kit pictures has the 2 terminals at the bottom, so I fitted mine like that, when all done & switched on the fan was running with the slider fully up in what was the orignal off position, moving the slider down to full actually switched it off, so the instrument panel was extracted & slider turned round so the 2 terminals are at the top, now when switched on, with the slider fully up at the icon O position, fan was off, moved the slider down to 2 position & fan speeded up as expected, so all done, here's some photo's of the fitting with notes. the control box needs thermal paste on its bottom face [sachet supplied in the kit] to give it a good chance I removed the paint from heater box where the control box was going to be fitted. the kit instruction don't say what to do with the 3 disconnected wires from the original slider, so these were taped up & tucked out of harms way, the control cable is pushed fully in to its outer sleeve & also taped in place. retain the hand grip & screw to fit to the new slider & don't loose the green cable clip, I put mine back on the old removed slider. most of the photo's are self explanatory. 1. the starting point, 4 screws to remove to extract instrumment pack. 2. instrument pack moved & 2 screws removed to extract original slider, disconnect the 3 wires & the green cable clip & ring of control cable from mechanism, push cable fully in. 3. original slider removed, green cable clip put back in it's slots, so it doesn't get lost, these green clips are used on the outside of heater box too. also remove the hand grip & screw for fit to new slider switch. 4. disconnected wires & control cable taped up to prevent any problems & then the wires were tucked out of the way. 5. the new loom threaded through as per instructions from engine bay side, the wire end are pre terminated to fit in the new plug, match the wires to the socket wires on new slider. 6. instructions do not say which way to fit the slider part, I found a fit guide on defender2 forum which said the 2 wires to the bottom, this is shown in one photo on instruction but not in text, so I follwed the info, but found it wrong for my 110, had to remove it again 7 refit with the 2 at the top, then it works correct for my 110. also had to trim the handgrip brass strip a bit & the recess in handgrip to get it to sit in place correctly, the grip & screw is the original. 7. looks very good fitted in place & instrument pack refitted, could almost be a original factory fit item. 8. clearance check at off position, site clear of my Kenwood TM-D700 ham radio control head, so very happy. 9. loom routed acrossback of engine bay, ty-wrapped to the heater control cables, the loom is plenty long enough for a RHD 90/110. 10, removed the paint from location control box is going to fit, this needs thermal paste applied [sachet included in the kit] to heater box & control box lower face before final fit. 11. control box finally wired & ready to fit in place. 4 2.5mm holes to drill & tap to M3 thread for it's 4 screws. 12. control box earth wire connected. 13. control box final fit, on top of the heater unit, it does sit clear of the bonnet frame. so all good. 14, back in the cab for a functional test, works very well, fan run as soon as slide is moved from off & speed increases as slide is moved to full 2 position. job finished, tools away & time for a brew
  3. 4 points
    Good news. Thanks to your replies, I hammered on a snug fitting 24mm Halfords Advanced socket. All went well and with a little more penetration fluid and some pushing and pulling on the breaker bar, it came off. Wondering if I would need another socket, I forced a bolt into the nut, clamped it tight in a vice and hammered it free. Socket looks servcable! Result! Thanks for all the replies and so glad I didn’t need to get to welding near the alloy wheel. Neil
  4. 4 points
    Good satire is rooted in truth... Enjoyed the article, will continue to chuckle at what's it's poking fun at.
  5. 3 points
    They spec the parts though, and test them before accepting them. As TSD discovered doing an autopsy, even a genuine Bosch starter motor that fits a TDi does not have the same level of sealing as a genuine Land Rover starter motor made by Bosch. Likewise almost any part fitted by any manufacturer Vs the OEM replacement. As for blue boxes, I reckon their stuff is specced by sending a blurry camera-phone photo of the part to China and taking the lowest bid on something that looks like it might just fit if you squint and stand a long way away.
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    Well, its been a long wait, but we put this in on Tuesday in one of the barns. I am very happy! (Thanks also to Jon White on here who put me on to the person selling it)
  8. 3 points
    After viewing the last three, I think we are going to need a bigger bucket.
  9. 3 points
    I've double checked and yes I can drive to both an mot and an IVA provided it's prebooked and the vehicle is insured on it's chassis number. So mot booked for 8th may to set and check light aim, brakes and emissions plus a good look over to see if I've missed anything. Mike
  10. 3 points
    Not sure he knows, but I really enjoyed talking LR with Richard. I think LR would do well to have him as some sort of spokesperson for local or online media. Cheers Stephen! Funny I was trying to not sound like I was worried about popularity but I'm always trying to keep the episodes interesting so there might have been a subconscious fish for feedback in that. I supposed what I meant was that if it's not your cup of tea it's all good, it's fairly niche, but don't miss the episodes over the simple click of a setting.
  11. 2 points
    What I've heard (and it makes sense) is that aggressive muds are a poor idea as they will break the surface & dig holes, whereas milder AT or even road tyres will sit on top.
  12. 2 points
    OK if there's enough meat for a self-tapper to grip. Another one I removed I made a tool similar to this: Drill a hole in plug, slide the slot into the hole and pivot on the heel.
  13. 2 points
    We've all done it the wrong way, out of necessity or ignorance. We forget when it works but remember the disasters, and so when we see someone going down the same route we offer our experiences. Try it, if you get away with it, great!, nothing ventured and all that. And, those old cast iron engines are robust, a good gasket can solve a lot of problems. Have fun. And well done for bringing another one back from the grave.
  14. 2 points
    Haha. A run of bad luck lately Mo! Writing off the BMW was pretty unlucky....! I guess surviving the crash was more lucky though :-) In terms of the mirror, I picked up RTC4341 - I dont really like the convex mirror and preferred the old flat ones. Fitting was easy enough with a small snag.... I boiled the kettle and then emptied it over the rubber surround. This was then really flexible and came off pretty easily. The glass was easy to remove. The new glass was about 3mm taller than the mirror body. I poured hot water over the mirror body and then used a couple of clamps to squeeze the sides. Quickly dried the body and added a couple of small spots of sikaflex to hold the mirror in place (probably unnecessary). The clamps and the more flexible body enabled me to carefully squeeze the new glass in. The rubber was still flexible enough to get back around the mirror (if it isnt, then have another kettle full of hot water handy). Cleaned up with a rag and job done. I do prefer the flat mirror though rather than the distortion the convex glass gives but i couldnt find one of these replacements quickly.
  15. 2 points
    Finally got the bolts back in, I had two drill two holes in the rear foot well upright and still hit the bolts in with a hammer. After bolting the strut top bracket to the cross member I had to remove both the shock and anti roll bar to jack the body high enough to get the bottom cup into the a frame. all back together so move onto the next problem.
  16. 2 points
    By way of comparison, this is one of my axles prepped for a spot of welding: A long time spent with the grinder, first using a wire wheel to get all the military underseal off, then the paint, then flap wheel down to SHINY metal for a good area all around where the weld is going to go. There was no rust, but if there was you need to get it ALL off, not just back to "smooth" but back to BRIGHT SHINY metal. Here's similar work going on on my chassis: And yes, I did wire-brush an ENTIRE 109 chassis back to bright metal - took days and about 10 wire wheels plus 3 dead angle grinders.
  17. 2 points
    This has happened out of necessity, I've actively started cutting out large parts of the processes - some thing when some piece of work has to be repeated more than once for instance. It's a fine balance I'm always trying to strike. The other piece of the picture is the time part of the time lapse. Watching someone doing DIY is frustrating if their hand or a tool is partially in the way, but it's also a let down when someone says "now I'm going to..." and then there's a cut and it's done. You get no sense of what it took to do it. If it helps mate I'll do a lapse of some shirts being ironed When I was nine to fiving I used to do my weeks shirts in a half hour on a Sat morn or Sunday. Have to say I'm happy with a fortnightly instalments, no it's not easy but to shoot for more regular instalments would totally change the format, and it'd still make it more pressured. I've thought of splitting the interviews into their own stand alone videos but that's a completely different series and not what I intended. I think the DIY work pulls people into listening to people they wouldn't normally get to hear, or bother to listen to, and the interviews do the same [probably to a lesser extent] for the DIY. Have to say gent's it's a really interesting and insightful conversation. There's a depth of understanding here for the processes I go through. I've made a fairly big commitment in the last few weeks by bringing the two cars home to work in the open. No unit and no roof over my head but a small saving in both time and money. It was causing me some anxiousness but after the last few days I've a growing excitement for the newfound energy it's given me.
  18. 2 points
    A lot of products which are oil or fuel resistant will NOT survive if permanently immersed - ask me how I know! I'd want something that can stand double the temperature and is rated for immersion in gear oil. Loctite's technical helpline are very helpful for this.
  19. 2 points
    Enjoy Rattler, get a window seat on the plane. I never tire of looking out the window down on the world.
  20. 2 points
    Ok. Thanks. Brake cleaner it is. The datasheet for silcoset says its good to 300C and oil resistant so I think I’m going to go with that.
  21. 2 points
    I love the stop motion stuff ! And it is a USP ...
  22. 2 points
    In the simplest sense it's from 'souped up'. But it's a catch all - fuel, oil, water.... booze . Later if I thought it was a natural progression I'd like to bring sailing into it. The self sufficiency that blue water sailing requires is very like the attitude a lot of LR guys have. You need to self sufficient - a navigator, a pilot, an engineer, a dare devil, a carpenter, composites expert, metal worker and cool under pressure all at once. The cool thing is that the internet says the earliest record of the expression is early 20th century and it was used in horse racing - soup was the concoction of drugs they'd give horses to make them run faster. They were souped up. I'm making the stretch that it got carried over to cars with horsepower when they replaced horses.
  23. 2 points
    Ross is still going strong. His should be the best Land Rover ever rebuilt in about 70 years 😂
  24. 2 points
    I don't have FB but I just might do it for the sake of joining the RRC restoration group.
  25. 2 points
    Cough IVA booked 31st may....... Mike
  26. 2 points
    I heard a rumour that it’s not the new Defender they are unveiling; to ark the anniversary of HUE, they’ve finally found the centre steer prototype in a barn and they’re unveiling that. Well, I didn’t technically “hear” a rumour. More like just started it.
  27. 2 points
    Came over this thread via Google and managed to dig the photos out from the Wayback Machine (it stores old websites). Here's the link: https://web.archive.org/web/20170109043226/https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/55697-replacing-defender-body-cappings/ Images with original text: You will need some replacement body cappings obviously. You will also need some basic tools: Drill & 6mm drill bit, hammer, rivet gun, assorted screwdrivers, pliers, 10mm & 13mm spanners, and a 10mm socket / ratchet. WD40 or similar is useful if some of the fixings are rusty. You will also need plenty of new rivets, I think 60 is enough. To begin with, you will need to remove the headlining, so sun visors and mirror needs to come off. Then remove the 6 10mm bolts which hold the front of the roof to the screen surround. I then removed the rear door hinge from the rear body (13mm). I then removed the 4 13mm nuts which hold the body to the tub. I then removed the 10mm nut and bolt on either side of the tub. Next, I pulled the door seals away from the body. Now, because I was on my own, there was no easy way of lifting off the roof completely. Therefore, I kinda had to bodge it, i.e. supporting the roof with blocks of wood, while i got the cappings off. I don’t have any pictures of the first side, as I was trying to work out how to do it myself : ). Here you can see the old capping removed. You can see clearly why they needed replacing. Here, the new capping is in place, ready to be riveted on. This is how the roof was supported. Now, onto the other side. This one was even worse. Make sure all the bolts are undone, and lift the body clear of the tub. Then undo the angled bracket which supports the rear body. You then need to drill out all the rivets which hold the capping in place. There are about 25 for each capping. Once you have removed all the rivets, it is a case of levering the old capping off; this is easier said than done. I used a flat head screwdriver, chisel and hammer to remove it. Eventually, it will let go, and the capping will come loose. The next job is to remove the remains of the rivets; I used a drill in some cases, and a screwdriver / hammer in others. When you have removed all of the rivets and cleaned up the body, you can slide on the new capping. One useful thing to do, is to put all the rivets into the holes, before you start to ‘pop’ them; this means if the capping distorts slightly when you ‘pop’ the rivets, you won’t have difficulty trying to put the rivets into the holes. Once it is secured, it’s simply a case of putting the body back on. It’s not hard, but will take a bit of jiggling to get everything lined up. Make sure you put on the angled brackets by the rear door first. Once the body is sitting correctly, tighten the corner bolts, and add the bolts for the side supports. Then bolt the rear door hinge back onto the body. Put the door seals back in place, and make sure all the doors shut ok. Below you can see the finished result.(I ran out of rivets right at the end, so there are a couple missing :(. I will fix this tomorrow.) I started at 9, and had all the tools packed away by 5. Now I know what to do, I’m sure I could knock a few hours off next time. Not that I’m planning on doing this again for a while...
  28. 2 points
  29. 1 point
    wecome to ramp ownership. it will pay for itself in no time! best value for money piece of kit about! i wouldn't be without mine!
  30. 1 point
    I was only trying to keep it in direct context of the original question, taking a 200tdi 90 on a road trip, it's too big a general subject & definitely one for the pub Tdi Defenders don't have much grunt in reserve in sand, and extra drag is really felt - different matter on a 4.6 'cruiser. Just to go back to the original post also, two weeks isn't much for Morocco, the nicest sand other than the tourist trap at Merzouga, is south of M' Hamid, towards the Algerian border. You need closer to 18 days (if driving from UK) or you won't get to enjoy the rest of the country, which is spectacular. Much of the country has tar nowadays, and most tracks are hard & stoney. A great all round tyre for this stuff is actually the General Grabber TR that LR used to fit, great on sand, gravel and rocks and don't howl on the road. Used to be able to pick them up for peanuts as they don't look fashionable.
  31. 1 point
    There can be a difference in turbo pressure; I bought mine as a crated re-power version, and years later I measured turbo pressure. This turned out to be the highest pressure known to have left the factory (15PSI), which is discovery automatic. So that could well be the case with a wolf. I think that the reason to have more or less power is emissions related, perhaps the army did not have to comply to the same rules? Daan
  32. 1 point
    Yes to the crank seal. This is what I would get for the job: Dayco belt OEM tensioner OEM/genuine Crank dust seal for timing cover OEM/genuine front crank seal Waterpump gasket If the cam seal shows no sign of leaking leaking then I'd leave it. Just incase you've missed it, there is an excellent how-to-guide on here in the tecnical archive:
  33. 1 point
    Eeeeh it does my heart good to see another big chunk of pig-iron being cut out of this truck! How thick was that steel???
  34. 1 point
    Mo had that when he was using Neils old OD. We changed the clutch but it still did it. Since then the springs were changed and it seemed to make a big difference. Looking at the clutch material should give you the answer though i think.
  35. 1 point
    Mine is on the front, my wiring runs along the inside of the dash above the heater plenum and then out the near side grommet...
  36. 1 point
    4x2s are so rare - yes it would be sacrilige to change the engine - I would have thought it would have had a 2.0 spreadbore engine rather than the much earlier 1600 but you need to check. Really giving the current engine a good refurb would provide as much oomph as something like a Jimny and no conversion needed. I would stay with what you have and do a mechanical refurb. Garry
  37. 1 point
    Yes, great piece of kit. A bit short on the loom for RHD models as it was designed for the LHD blower unit. It's plug and play on td5 looms, I'll be getting another unit for project 2.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    David Sparkes Hi again, Dave.....you little gem. I found the part you suggested. Took out all the flooring and gearbox tunnel to give me better access. An old engineer who lives down the road supplied me with the cross pins. What i found, quite shocked me,.. (1) The first pin closest to the clutch slave cylinder, ( Vertical pin ) had actually broken in two. ( 2 ) The ( Horizontal pin ) ...Next to the gearbox,.... Once removed,...was bent AND fractured. Fitting the VERTICAL pin, was made so much easier by using a telescopic magnet. I had been struggling to fit this pin, what with everything in the way, but the magnet proved to be brilliant.. So anyway Dave, thanks very much for the heads up on that one.. She drives fantastic now. Cheers mate Dave N,
  40. 1 point
    I'll sell my mach5's when you sell your portals. Mike
  41. 1 point
    Thanks. The sensor is splashed from below rather than immersed in this but I take your point. Current issue is the bank holiday weekend and half my gear 300 miles away (including a spare speed sensor!). It’s all up and working now. The sensor is easy to pull so I’ll check it next weekend and see how it’s faring. I took lots lots of pics of the disassembly. I’ll post them up at some point as I know others need to take these apart at some point and they may help.
  42. 1 point
    I'm going to pretend you didn't call the thing I put a huge effort into a gimmick In it's defence the reason I chose to do time lapse [knowing it would add considerably to my workload] was because it's the best way to show full detail with no obstructions or distractions. Because I'm coming at everything as a novice I could see how someone who already knows all the work depicted would find it a gimmick or tedious, but many others don't and many consider it my USP. Anyway that's a tangent - I meant to say that I was thinking of putting links in the description of the episodes that take you directly to each section. If I'm a realist not everyone watches all the way through and it may/may not be harm to have those links present. the brain cell engagement thing makes me very happy mate, if only I were smarter I could force you to engage more of them I'd pull it off and do that mate, thanks a million. Ordinary high temp grease, or moly or copper what's best? [I only have those three]
  43. 1 point
    Another good episode. I would however point out you should grease both sides of a gasket before fitting as it helps it stick and seal better. Mikr
  44. 1 point
    I'm glad to hear you say that, George. I think Daan is right in his observation of the younger generation's attention span typically being shorter, but I disagree with you changing the format to suit them - like you said, they can jump about the episodes with the drag bar if they can't focus for more than a few minutes; why should those of us with a bit more discipline, patience and interest have to have everything dumbed down for their benefit? Just look at the mess that was Land Rover's special broadcast to see how badly that turns out! Hold firm, George - you're on the right track with a good format. The only difference of opinion I'd offer, which would save time and only create a small visual style change without changing tone or content is to end the motion-capture or stop-motion (or whatever the correct term is) filming, which was a nice gimmick when you started, but not necessary anymore to those who are following you as you have firmly established a show style and format which no longer needs a time consuming gimmick to be identifiable.
  45. 1 point
    Finally road tested the car and it' running the best it has ever done. It appears it was probably pipes to the fuel filter housing fitted the wrong way round. Thanks for the replies. Cheers Neil
  46. 1 point
    Well, I watched it through and I much prefer 'SOUP'. I wonder what the budget was. ........
  47. 1 point
    Fixed! Someone (not me) put the wire into the wrong connector on another junction box. All fixed now. Many thanks for the help, particularly the wiring diagram.
  48. 1 point
    Can't say I agree with this. There are plenty of perfectly fine usable used engines. In fact almost all used cars have used engines in them. And you don't have to rebuild a used car to make it usable. Yes you may take a chance and might need some luck. But the reality is, not everyone is out to get you or trying to flog a dud. We've bought 3 used 200Tdi's and a couple of RV8's. So far all have been perfectly fine and not required rebuilding at all.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    So binned the landrover cast hub idea and made some out of steel all 4 made and welded on now looking to make some discs Have also cut centres out of unimog rims and looking to weld landrover rim centres in however will need to make a jig to get everything square slow but steady progress


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