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  1. 7 likes
    Unreliable viscous couplings are a PITA - had to change mine earlier this year; it wasn't even 24 years old..
  2. 7 likes
    Ok, So there is a thread on U/J quality in the international forum were people are mentioning short lives of their U/J, and questioning their quality. Of course, a genuine U/J generally lives longer than a cheap replacement. But In my experience, there is more to it. Mainly maintenance; how often do you grease your U/Js? And the next question is than how is it done. Before you all think I teaching you to suck eggs I will expand on this a bit more: Problem I found is that one grease nipple is serving 4 bearings. In reality, this means that the grease tend to find the route with the least resistance. This usually means you are effectively greasing 1 or 2 bearings only. And what about the others? They are dry as a bone and fall apart. To combat this, I thought about it, and came up with a method that I will show you here. It is rather involved, but I have not changed a U/J in 10 years. Here we go: First off, grease as you would normally. You can see which bearing gets grease, as it pours past the seal: The ones that dont get any grease need feeding as well. You can do this by pressing the bearing which has already been greased against the crosspiece like so: This now should stop the flow of grease to the already greased bearing, and find the next passage with the lowest resistance. If you still have other bearings that have no grease coming out, you can add a G-clamp with a nut, to press 2 opposed bearing cups against the cross piece. keep repeating this process until all bearing cups have grease coming out. This process is rather fiddly, but as mentioned, since I started doing it this way, I have had no failures. I have done this with the props on the car and using 2 opposed G-clamps. Also, the blue grease is better in my experience, as it does not go solid like the yellow stuff (which I am using here, unfortunately). Hope that helps, and have fun greasing these things! Daan
  3. 4 likes
    Ok, A friend made me aware of my appearance on the shortlist of the LRO calendar - twice! So I you have a moment spare please vote for me... And maybe have my landy as a pin up of the month! Daan
  4. 4 likes
    Had a look just now, I've placed six orders with Island 4x4 in total, the first one going back to 2011. All shipped to Ireland and all arrived without issue. I like Island 4x4. Dear Island 4x4. It's great that you came on to respond. You haven't addressed the actual problem though so it reads more like you came just to say "sod off". Not good for business. If the OP had gotten some communication from you he might not have posted in the first place. A simple "we're sorry we didn't get back to you in good time and we're making every effort to make sure our sales support is top notch", shows professionalism and that you care about each and every one of your customers - even if you hate the OP's guts and you're not doing squat to up your communication game. That little bit of acknowledgement would give you the chance of having his custom again, and that of anyone else who sympathises with him. Judging by their website, the OP is a member of a very active and motivated club. It doesn't matter how many parts you send around the world if your prospective customers feel as though there's no guarantee they'll hear from you again once the order is placed. I've had no reason to doubt your service in the past, but when it comes to placing another order, of course I'll have question whether your the right supplier. Before you tell me to sod off, I've written this because I'd like to know you're there when I need stuff, not because I want to have a go. George
  5. 4 likes
    Just to close this one out - I swapped the gearbox at the weekend (ably assisted by a very helpful forum member) and all has returned to normal. Old box sounded quite rough when turned by hand once removed from the vehicle, it may have lasted for another 100,000 miles or might have failed tomorrow, who knows. Interestingly more filings had accumulated on the drain plug magnet since I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago than had done so in the previous few years, so it seems something was breaking up inside. Thanks to all for the help.
  6. 4 likes
    Is this the 5 minute argument or the full half-hour?
  7. 3 likes
    You don't want bar grips. I drove the 109 to Russia and back on (sort of) bar grips - actually 9.00x16 Petlas: Dirtydiesel was ahead of me in the convoy in a 300TDi RRC with no interior/soundproofing, he said he spent hours on the road trying to find the odd noise his truck was making - dipping the clutch, turning things on & off, etc. etc... eventually we pulled into a petrol station, and as I rolled to a halt behind him he realised it was my tyres he could hear!
  8. 3 likes
  9. 3 likes
    You need to move with the times bushwhacker, no one off-roads land rovers any more. You need lowered springs, expensive alloys and LED headlights. Lots of those about 😂 Mo
  10. 3 likes
    To be fair, I've never needed an intercooler at low speeds On a technical point, didn't Daan instrument his 200TDi a while back with a collection of thermal sensors and post his results up? Much as I hate to introduce science to a good internet argument
  11. 2 likes
    I think there's some confusion. To the best of my knowledge the military only had the bolt in GEARBOX cross member, that's certainly what my mil/1-ton chassis has. The Stage 1 V8 had a bolt in FLYWHEEL cross member., but no GEARBOX cross member. The Stage 1 gearbox appears to be mounted the same as boingys.
  12. 2 likes
    Well at the end of the day if they didn't make money they wouldn't be there, they're not a government service. They base it on risk and statistics, if they price themselves out the market they wouldn't earn any money either so it's kind of self regulating even if its annoying. What annoys me if when the courts stick their nose in and make rulings like they can't make a womans insurance cheaper based on gender. If the statistics show that they pay out less to women then men then it costs them less so they should charge less.
  13. 2 likes
    Oh well. I thought in for a penny in for a pound. It's just done 80 miles to my parents. It's kind of local compared to most of my current journeys!
  14. 2 likes
    Err the wall behind the truck.....OK I'm going now. Mike
  15. 2 likes
    Thanks for the info. Must admit am tempted, but will pass in favour of the spending 5 times as much on the R-tech inverter MIG which can do stick too... As we've mentioned Bridgwater, Toolstation have their 'outlet' shop there, always worth a peruse if you're in the area. Weston Five-0; hmmmm not sure that TV series would get commissioned somehow. .... Damn now I have a mental image of the theme song to drunks fighting underneath the pier....
  16. 2 likes
    Thread revival I've finally looked at this again and bought a used VW 99 relay, plugged it in and it works! So I'm happy although I still wonder why the first two new relays didn't. Then I saw this thread in the Tech archive (how do you guys do those fancy links to other threads) and I moved my AMR2341 relay to the rear wiper. I followed the instructions in there from @nickwilliams and made the little loom to a suitable relay base. I replaced the resistor and got a 16s intermittent delay which is great. Thanks Nick for a great write-up. Finally, I replaced the wiper motor drive cable and the two wheel boxes and got a new pair of blades and all's good. I realised that the wheel boxes don't need to be replaced as long as you mark the spindle before pulling out the cable drive, as only a few teeth are in contact and they just need turning through 180. In fact I'm sure i've read about that too somewhere on here.
  17. 2 likes
    All cleaned out with fresh diesel in it, running nicely..... 👍
  18. 2 likes
    I remove the tensioner, slip the belt on, then refit the tensioner leaving the bolt loose, once it's back in place & correctly seated then the adjustment & tension of the timing belt & torque up of the tensioner bolt can be done
  19. 2 likes
    That 'helpful forum member' is a good chap James. He took a Sunday afternoon and a Monday evening out of his time to help me out this last week. Thanks Neil!
  20. 2 likes
    you cant beat a good pup picture to successfully punctuate a LR thread :-)
  21. 2 likes
    Ghastly looking thing, I've put a pitchfork in the back of the 90 in case one comes near. Mo
  22. 2 likes
    This is probably where your friend got the idea from: http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm I'm in total agreement with Snagger's statement of not throwing in a second hand engine on blind faith.There is a further rebuild option: If you have the room, get a second hand 12J engine to rebuild (you can still get a perfectly good 12J really quite cheap as people rip them out for a Tdi) so that you still have your land rover running while you take your time and rebuild the second engine - it takes the pressure off a bit and will stop you rushing the job and also allows you to spread the cost out if funds are tight. I think the head gasket is certainly worth doing first. It's dead easy to do on a 12J, it will also allow you to get a good look at the condition of the head, piston crowns and cylinder bores while you are there.
  23. 2 likes
    Fitted the lower dash in today inc the metal panel that has the air vent lever's screwed to it and sorting some of the wiring out, here are a few pic's I took just before I fitted the metal panel
  24. 2 likes
    And they are underway.
  25. 2 likes
    EDIS probably won't worry too much about spark gap...
  26. 2 likes
    Is there a term for that sort of slightly-trashy-but-trying-to-be-suave-but-overall-too-glossy-until-it-finally-misses-the-point style of automotive design usually favoured by Asian car companies trying to move upmarket but unable to understand terms such as "style" and "restraint"? (So that a 30-year-old Jaguar still looks classy and refined in comparison.) If not, then a word should be coined to describe this move by JLR into further suburban mediocrity.
  27. 2 likes
    Thanks for all the honest feedback gents. I think it would help to explain what i am trying to achieve with all these upgrades before going any further. Here in Lebanon, its impossible to own a new Defender (even while they were still being produced) due to the ban on diesel vehicles. Only the Lebanese army, UN, and/or diplomatically immune embassies of other nations were allowed to bring in and register such vehicles. That leaves us commoners with slim pickings. A defender is about as exclusive as it gets in a land where every other soccer mom is driving around in a 2017 G63 AMG...which cost $350k USD here including taxes and registration. The only choice we have is to try and find a relatively good shape defender from the days before the diesel ban and work on restoring the vehicle. If i could...i would go buy the most up to date Defender diesel motor, transmission, ECU and dash to make it a true factory spec vehicle. Since that isn't an option, I'm starting to play with all types of ideas. One of which is the LS3 motor mated to the auto transmission. At least my wife would be able to drive the car (she loves it by the way ). If i go ahead and modify the motor and transmission, i'll most likely upgrade the ECU and pop in the new dash with modern dials and electronics. My goal is not to make the car go crazy fast or handle in the twisties. I just wanna make the car modern and reliable. I would likely go for the more practical detuned motor option if available.
  28. 2 likes
    I personally find Engine Masters very entertaining. And of course even more Roadkill from which it has spawned. I like how they go against all the naysayers, and all the misconceptions and prejudice that is everywhere, both on the WWW and IRL. Just take the one where they completely destroy some headers and it did nothing bad to the performance of the engine, that will have put a lot of smart-arses in there place I like how finally someone does those tests that we have all been wondering about ever since we fixed our first moped But súre it isn't any exact science, but you shouldn't expect that from the show, another thing they did wrong was claiming that as the Alternator spins anyways it won't draw any extra HP, which of course it does with the higher load.
  29. 2 likes
    Every cooling fan thread ever...
  30. 2 likes
  31. 2 likes
    You're not kidding. Every time I go for a warrant of fitness, I have to endure the "it's a Land Rover, something must be wrong" mentality. This time it was "brakes pull to left" - except I can take my hands of the wheel, apply the brakes firmly and the steering wheel stays pointed straight ahead. That will be hard to improve. And he wanted me to fit things it never had from new - so I told him to check what the law says. He will but what a hassle. (Sorry about the off-topic rant but this page was what I opened my computer up to!)
  32. 2 likes
    When you've got all your leaks sorted can you come and do mine? You do realise you are slowly turning off the anti-corrosion system.
  33. 2 likes
    Yes, crammed in to the point of it being difficult to move A tip I picked up from ingenious woodworker and engineer Matthias Wandel (find him on Youtube) is to have as much equipment as possible on wheels. that way it can be nested away when not in use, while the items you want to use can be moved into a usable position. Obviously this won't work for everything; like my lathe, mill and #1 bench are far to big and heavy. My supplementary benches are currently Workmates with large boards clamped to them. They can be dragged about, but this often leads to the contents rolling or rattling off in the process. My longer term plan is to make a couple of mid-sized mobile benches, maybe with fold down extensions too. I shall try to make these matching heights so they can be pushed together for bigger projects.
  34. 2 likes
    I do think it helps for anyone doing this if you can do the 90 deg in one movement - or failing this do a bit, then restart, but aim to complete in the second movement. I think the further you are on, the harder it is to restart. So if you have a limited movement, do say 30 deg, then reset and finish in one, rather than have to stop and do the the last 10 deg. I use a torque multiplier and it still makes me wonder whether the breaker bar will break.
  35. 2 likes
    Thought my current project might generate a bit of interest here... Everything begins with a rusty bulkhead from a IIB Forward Control. It could have been repaired, but to my mind by the time I'd done so it would have been 90% new metal by the time it was done properly. A bit more thinking left me with the notion that it wasn't going to be much more difficult to build a new one from scratch. So, tape measure out, lots of measuring done, drawings made, and I ended up with a stack of sheet metal in various interesting shapes. Some work with a large press and other sheet metal forming devices started to make them look more like Land Rover bits. And with a bit more fettling they started to look even more like Land Rover bits. Then after drilling some holes and adding some weld it got closer still. Until something resembling a complete new unit had come into existence. Said unit has proved some of the drawings were spot on, others not so, and has also contributed some to getting the assembly sequence sorted. A few mistakes and other updates required mean that this unit will be cut up shortly, and rebuilt again (more completely) using updated components. However -and you are reading this right- complete Series II/IIA bulkheads will be available at a reasonable price quite soon.
  36. 2 likes
    So, we're nearly there with it, so here's a quick update with a few photos I've yet to post here. At the end of the last post I was ready to attach the footwells, here we see the Drivers side welded in to the door pillar, foot and stiffeners further up. Spot the important extra. Very few photos taken whilst I was glueing the passenger footwell in, but here we see it welded in, along with the centre section, and the rear panel for the dashboard also welded in. Then I added the transmission tunnel flange... Looking at the other side of the structure we have the stiffener which goes between the footwells. Starting with a flat piece of steel cut to shape I formed it up using a 2lb hammer, the bench vice and the edge of the steel bench. My metal forming skills are improving. Seen installed between the footwells. And starting to assemble the dashboard. By this stage my phone had run out of battery, so there's no photos of the nearly finished product. As it sits the wiper spindle/washer jets holes need drilling out to the correct size, along with adding bonnet and vent flaps hinges, the drip rail and the tabs for the heater vents. More holes will need to be added for some of the fittings and fixtures when it's dressed up for use on a vehicle, but we're very nearly there. As it's coming with me to the 'Brass Monkeys at the Station' event at the Northern part of the NRM the last job of the day was to give it a blast over with a coat of Buzzweld primer to prettify it some before it goes on display. Expect some photos of it tomorrow.
  37. 2 likes
    So, since I last posted there's been quite a bit going on in the workshop. First off, I can now do SWB truck cab filler plates, having gotten my hands on a genuine parts one to copy. A lot of reworking, testing and altering has gone on, learning lessons from the original build. Most parts have had some sort of alteration, but it's pretty much there now. Then lots of clamping, welding, measuring, adjusting, measuring and tickling with hammers. Then it was fitted into the jig to get built up fully. And with the inner panel sat in to test the fit. The footwells look like they'll fit rather well also. As an added bonus I've sold a few full width top section repair panels. The blanked off vent holes will be a production option should you wish it. For more regular updates you can find my page on Facebooks if you search for Westlakes All Wheel Drive.
  38. 2 likes
  39. 2 likes
    iiiits Turbotime! Finally could no longer resist slapping the Turbo from the old 1,6TD engine on, have been wanting to try my hands at turboing a carburetted petrol for many years now. And what better car to try it on, than my very own Lab-Rat? Firstly I found the best location for the Turbo and made some exhaust tube to connect it all, and a support from the intake to avoid breaking the exhaust manifold from all the extra weight: To my happy surprise the cast iron down pipe was easy enough to weld: Kept everything as much inboard as possible: And got both the water and oil lines for the Turbo hooked up: And finally a little video of the nice Turbo whine: This was obviously the easy part, now comes fitting a wastegate (none on the Turbo anymore, i lobbed it off ) making the pressure side and fitting a dumpvalve. And then somehow making that Britpart Carb run properly with boost going through it! If this fails though, I always have the option of fitting a carb in front of the turbo instead. Would actually negate the need for a dumpvalve as well but might affect throttle response, low RPMs and startup. So we'll see how it all ends up.
  40. 1 like
    Oh please.....! If you want a technical instruction manual a copy of the Haynes manual is a good start.
  41. 1 like
    those are just factory standard front seats as fitted to the 300tdi/td5 vehicles. only the material change for different model year updates. early vehicles had a hard shell to the rear of backrests, some have a map pocket across the back, mine 1989 are soft backed with no map pocket, so yes there are variations.
  42. 1 like
    But don't all number plate makers have to put their details on them by law now? So could just have gone to them for a set of plates and bingo it looks like it was built by a proffessional!
  43. 1 like
    If I were you, get a Stage 1 V8 cross member for under the flywheel. It's a touch further back - inline with the bulkhead outriggers - and is also bolt in. I've just ordered one for my 88" chassis
  44. 1 like
    http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/our-models/defender/defender-90/defender-90-pre-2000/front-seating.html
  45. 1 like
    That sounds pretty normal to me, at least the bit about the oil cap. Without understanding the aerodynamics of the cyclone breather and the passage of air around it it would be hard to make comments on it. Any engine will have some blow by, it is the nature of the beast, and 4 pistons going up and down at a high rate of knots is going to create a load of turbulence. I suspect you may be looking at something and worrying unnecessarily.
  46. 1 like
    Going to be examined by an insurance engineer then on to a garage of my choice..
  47. 1 like
  48. 1 like
    I even got a mention on page 2: Then there's this...Bobbing back and forth, the slot for his Mother’s 10p sits in the driver’s door. Ok, he probably means this is a toy. But, yes, they are banded by 2" which gives you a cheaper and wider end result than standard deep dish rims (they are 5.5" td5 rims, widened to 7.5"). This gives you a 8mm offset, like a weller 8 spoke or a modular wheel. I have to say, the writer could not have chosen his name better. Daan
  49. 1 like
    Given that JATE is the acronym for Joint Air Transport Establishment. I would imagine that this is what they were designed for If the bolts are 12.9 type and thus possess a tensile strength of 12,000mPa and if the shear is approx 0.63 of tensile then the shear strength of each retaining bolt is 7,440 mPa or 7.44KN per mm2
  50. 1 like
    I cut a pipe long enough to just clear the ceiling and only just managed to not break the 1/2" bar. As i said, I think that the pipe acted in part, down near the joint and so prevented some of the twist. Still it was a fingers out of the way moment as I pulled it down towards the nearside wing.