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  1. 5 points
    Although I'm not doing a full rebuild thread I can't resist putting this photo up. I've just come back from picking up a total of 52 bits from the galvanizer. All for a total of US$408, or just over GBP300. A lot less than I expected. So, now to re-tapping threads, T-wash and painting, before I start re-assembly. Mike
  2. 4 points
  3. 3 points
    Well as title states, I met the local mitsubishi moron tonight!......... I went out earlier this afternoon with my x2 dogs to do a bit of duck/geese shooting on some permission I have, anyway it's about 17:10 and dark so I decide home I the best place to be. So dogs, gun and duck in the Defender (90 30Tdi) and off home I sets. As I am coming through the last gate onto the main track out of the fields, I notice a Mitsubishi on the track, no lights on facing the same way I am going, but there is another motor (head lights on) pulled up to it!?! Now this is a single dead end track down near the river, so wasn't sure what was going off, but knew it was unusual, as I pulled round the Mitsubishi I could see the bonnet was up and a guy in his late thirty's leaning in. I wound the window down and inquired "Is it knackered?". with the expectation of "Not sure mate?.........Just stopped......Got no idea!" then me offering some help if I could? But NO!....The response I got was "NO MATE IT'S A MITSUBISHI NOT A LAND ROVER!"..............Well with that me and my dogs left in our knackered none Mitsubishi Land Rover! Now I fully know there were a thousand and one responses I could have given, some humorous, some not so! but to be honest answering the muppet that's holding a spanner whilst under the bonnet of a none starter and proclaiming my running defender is the knackered of the two, obviously has no grasp of irony and would be highly doubtful if he would have the intelligence to grasp anything other than his todger!?! Might be a while before I decide to play the Samaritan again
  4. 3 points
    As Daam says big forums (like here) use lots of bandwidth and are not cheap to run and maintain. LEO see the forum as s drain on profits so bye. hard and simple commercial desicion we are non profit making and with support from membership via the supporters scheme and donations are relatively financially safe...report to no one in terms of profits costs drains etc. all A&M team do all work for free and it's pretty self funding . shame LRO are doing this....but with dwindling distribution erg hardly a surprise to cut what is not a core business cost. lr4x4.com is it's core business big difference Again a huge thankyou to all forum financial supporters Nige
  5. 3 points
    😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
  6. 3 points
    What a lot of toss - the original Defender was based on the Range Rover of the time so what's wrong with them doing the same again? All its rivals (vans & pickups) are light-years ahead of what they were in the 1970's so if LR do the same I don't see it as "selling out" rather a long-overdue catching-up. Face it, even if you think the Defender should be more like a tractor - those are air-conditioned palaces of technology these days too!
  7. 3 points
    Yawn, who even cares about the new Defender or its potential rivals? As far as the replacements go, genuine or pattern : It might have a heater that works. It might have doors that seal. It might even be able to keep up on the Autobahn. It won't have a soul. It'll just be another piece of life-limited tat like the rest of their range or an expensive pretender to the throne. IF the new Defender does exist, IF, the best thing I can suggest is for McGovern to stick it straight back up his creative bumhole. I can say this, safe in the knowledge that no matter how good or gorgeous it is I won't be able to afford to buy one, so I'll be able to maintain my principles. 😉 Mo
  8. 2 points
    Ralph, I watched a little video about the Universe last night and realised that you could have driven to the moon in your truck with all them miles.... Obviously you would need the infrastructure put in place to do it for real.... No attempts beforehand please....
  9. 2 points
    Run both of my 200 tdi's without them - one for the last 18 years -no problems
  10. 2 points
    Ralph, have you watched "Close Encounters of the Third Kind"?
  11. 2 points
    It seems the Russians make exactly the sort of tall skinny tyres asked for here:
  12. 2 points
    I suggest you inform the Police about all this - and other LR owners. Perhaps more vehicles have had this happen and the more info the better. Here, the Gendarmerie likes to hear this sort of thing.. BTW, snow in Scotland ? Was there last week... ...and then on to Wales & Somerset....
  13. 2 points
    ha yeah I can se how the Cortina would be fun with even the 2.0 or 2.3L engines they were available with here. But honestly the 1.6 is fine for a runabout. It's still just about able for modern traffic. Been a while, the production has taken nearly all of my waking hours, I've been trying to chase up LR leads for stories and features and there should be stuff coming. Hopefully. Anyway the rear cross member has just gone into the Vogue so that a big step for me. Thanks for the backup gents!
  14. 2 points
    If he's got the bonnet up in the dark in the middle of nowhere he's likely not having the best of days... and he bought a Mitsubishi. TBH it was probably 50/50 he would've offered to sell yer a dag.
  15. 2 points
    He must mean this Chris ..... Made in Portugal by Deltrain using a Defender, but not a Defender...
  16. 2 points
    In the interest of using old threads occasionally so they don't seize up, I thought I'd post this here, for the interest mainly of the geeks... A few weeks ago, miketomcat donated a td5 speedo to my new Ibex build. I remembered the mileage could be reset/changed, but for the Ibex I will need to change the speedo calibration to match the tyre size before it goes to IVA. I didn't have anything off the shelf so first job was to write an eprom reader/programmer. BTW for those who tried previously, the Bus Pirate is a great device, but the microwire library is broken for the eeprom in the speedo, as it uses 6bit addressing, which isn't supported in the BP library. Mileage reset to 1, I started to look at the calibration. CwazyWabbit and MrKev previously tied down the checksum to a range of 8 possible values for any given calibration. I took a long read through the thread, but I didn't come up with any useful insights. So... can I bruteforce the problem? Program eeprom automatically? yep. Switch 12V on and off to the speedo? yep Drive the sender input at variable speed? yep Check if the speedo operates as programmed? Hmm, bit more tricky, but many ways to skin a cat. I could have the speedo needle hit a microswitch (Wabbits suggestion, and probably the most sensible one). I could have the speedo needle break a beam sensor, or reflect an IR beam (white needle reflects well, black background doesnt). But in the end I decided the sledgehammer approach to nutcracking was the way to go. Soooo... I have a machine vision camera with microcontroller I've never used for anything. After a few hours of fiddling, I have some functional scripts. For each calibration value, I try each of the possible checksums values, and the camera measures the speedo needle angle to decide if it is indicating 40mph or 0mph Total time to program, power up, drive the speedo up to speed, measure the needle angle and shut down again is about 15 seconds. Trying all possible values would take about 3 months, much longer than my attention span. But finding a checksum for values between 1/4 to 4 times standard, in ~ 1% steps, only takes a few hours it seems Camera output with wrong checksum (the text is written onto the saved image by the analysis software.) Camera output with good checksum The only problem now is I can't finish programming the speedo and put it back together, until I decide what size tyres I'm going to use
  17. 2 points
    What function do the disabled toilet handrails form?
  18. 2 points
    Thanks for bumping this thread up - I keep meaning to and forgetting! Hey George, I had a Cortina once . . . but it was an Aussie-spec model, so instead of that little British lawn mower motor, it had a straight-six 4.1 litre donk in it. "That's not an engine - this is an engine!"
  19. 1 point
    Does he? Maybe he thinks this is how a finished project looks like? 😜
  20. 1 point
    "FFS nigel...can you leave those bloody 300m shafts alone . ..and pay sone attention other than them please. Christ amazed you don't take the bloody things to bed" eh ? what's that love... .just coming dear"...
  21. 1 point
    I know they are pretty, but try to keep in mind that the pictures above and in the article are all guesses as to what LR actually have in mind - though some may be more accurate than others! Landrover has an opportunity to produce a vehicle to compete with all the Japanese pick-ups that farmers, utilities etc. are now using. They are comfortable and refined in a way no Defender has ever been, but that doesn't mean that Defender should be different. It has to be better than the competition in order to be saleable, but what does better mean? More durable? More comfortable? Better at load carrying? Better off-road? Lower running costs? Landrover has demonstrated that an enthusiast market alone cannot justify the cost of production, so they must be aware that they NEED the fleet buyer to make Defender a success, unless they hope to dilute sales of their other models - and BL went there in the 70s and surely wouldn't make the same mistake again!? Even if Defender does move closer to Discovery at the top end of the range, is that a bad thing? Many former Discovery owners adopted Defender in it's later years - and many found it wanting! If I were Landrover, what would I seek to sell? Well, a Japanese pick-up! OK, not exactly, but essentially that is the gap in Landrover's line-up left by Defender. It needs to be comfortable and offer modern conveniences as standard - AC, electric windows, sound deadening and a decent stereo. It will have to be able to tow 3.5 tonnes (that is expected of a Defender!) and carry a good load - *1000kg minimum in the 110 double-cab, perhaps more in a single cab variant. I am sure there is lots of technology Landrover can throw at Defender to make it good off-road! We should consider though, that new Defender is unlikely to be aimed at the winch challenger, the mud plugger, the play-day driver or the green-laner, nor even the owner of 'One Life Live It' stickers. We have already established that the enthusiast market will not support production. It will be aimed at attracting the commercial vehicle user who's job takes him down muddy tracks, onto building sites, farmers fields and so on. It still has to be easy to get in and out of (H+S, convenience etc!) so cannot be too high. I am pretty sure the L200 and Amarok designers have spent some considerable time and money researching and compromising on this point. I expect there will be a 2.0l turbo diesel and probably petrol options as well as larger, higher performance models aimed at those who tow or for models higher up the range. There can still be a basic model with the farmer or fleet buyer in mind, just as there is with Japanese/German/Chinese options. There is also an option to sell a higher spec model or models, just as they did with Defender. Why not have Discovery levels of comfort with the practicality of a utility vehicle? Even the Defender XS never got close! Any vehicle is going to be technically advanced and complicated, that is how the world is now. We want more driver aids and comforts, engines have to be cleaner and it all comes at the cost of complexity. But we will adapt to being able to diagnose and repair, just as we have with electric starters, electronic ignition, fuel injection and so on. Modern electronic systems CAN (pun intended) be made reliable. I would expect to see hybrid technology. One thing that could be most attractive to commercial/fleet buyers, it Landrover get the vehicle right, is residual value. That is, IMHO, one BIG reason why farmers kept buying Defenders as opposed to L200s. The L200 was cheap and comfy, you could fit a load of farm stuff and animals in the back and it was OK on fuel, but once it was three years old and a bit battered it was worthless. Defenders on the other hand... So economy of ownership is attractive, and if Landrover can make the new Defender desirable to the second hand/enthusiast market too, that could be their USP once more. We can only wait and see what comes, but Landrover are not known (these days) for launching vehicles and hoping for the best. They know inside and out who will buy them and why. I hope they see the world the same way as I do. I am greatly looking forward to seeing the new Defender, I hope it is a worthy replacement. * to meet VAT reclamation/company car tax rules as a commercial Chris
  22. 1 point
    Yes I mean if you needed two, then you’d have to make twice as many stainless ones which you’d then have to sell! 😀
  23. 1 point
    Started on a rebuild of my 24 year old 200Tdi engine, didn't find any major issues during the strip down, all the big end bearings were down to the bronze, Main bearings had some white metal facings remaining, crank some slight scores on No 1 main, all the others ok, on closer inspection of the original std size pistons 1,2,3 were found with a semi circular crack on the right side face [camshaft side] just below the oil control rings [will add a photo later] this is the first time the crank/pistons/rods have be disturbed since the engine was built by LR [it was a 200tdi repower kit, I bought brand new in 1994 to replace the dead TD engine] bought a lot of new parts from https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/200-tdi-c102x3005710?PGFLngID=1 10 thou undersize main & big ends,small ends,20thou oversize pistons, new cam & bearings, new followers, valves & springs, rocker shaft & rockers, head bolt set, oil pump overhaul kit, top & bottom gasket kits, timing belt & tensioner. had a local engine machine place http://www.westcornwallengineservices.co.uk/ do the machining work, for a lot less than I expected, the work consisted of head skim, valve seats recut, valve guides had no wear, rebore/hone out to 20 thou oversize, crank regrind to 10 thou undersize all mains/big ends, small end bearings replaced. so far on the build up, new valves lapped in & fully fitted, rockers & shaft built up waiting fitting,piston/rods 1,2,3 are in, found a busted oil control ring on 4th new piston when unpacking it, have been in message mode with Turners, a new set of rings due here tomorrow [Tues 31/10], not long finished repainting the block nice gold colour VHT spray paint from https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/ via their ebay shop, next stage is PAS/Alternator bracket painted, all bolts,engine mount brackets cleaned, just need the new piston ring set tomorrow, then fit No4 piston/conrod,ladder frame,oil pump, sump & close up the crankcase, fit the cam followers,cover plates, vacuum pump,engine mount brackets, timing case rear housing, remove engine from the stand & fit flywheel housing & flywheel/clutch. also ordered one of Nige's magnetic sump plugs, waiting on delivery. & get block back into my 110. some photo's below, I'll add updates as I progress.
  24. 1 point
    Just purchased a new (old) TD5 Bonnet which looks in good nick an the guy had a windscreen frame from TD5 which he said had no corrosion so I've got that arriving too. Thanks Ralph. I'll be purchasing a new heated screen and I figured the electronics shouldn't be too hard.
  25. 1 point
    If you've bought it from a Trade seller, I'd be wanting them to cover the costs :). As for the camping gear get some proper ratchet straps bungees are horrible things. As mentioned above by Maverik make sure shes secured. X-Eng do a great range of visible and easy to use deterrents like the pedal lock (saved a mates 110 on a couple of occasions) and also the gearstick lock. Both of which take seconds to put on.
  26. 1 point
    when I've ever had that issue of "NEEDING" a land rover my local LR garage is actually pretty helpful, just take a few out for test drives usually scratches that itch... Now don't fall into the trap of buying in a rush... I did... and its only about ooooo 5 years on I've managed to pull my little old truck into something like the condition I wanted really from the beginning... and I've forked out quite easily 4x what I initially paid... interesting journey mind but...
  27. 1 point
    So in essence we can conclude that with the KAM setup you pay Premium for something not much stronger than stock BUT with one easy to get to fuse, that's also quite expensive to replace? Still seems silly to me when Ashcroft etc just holds up or if you are on a budget, stock is almost as good as the KAM you just have to be prepared to do a bit more work when it breaks.. Anyways we are not really answering Nige's question are we?
  28. 1 point
    forums facebook and e bay I find the mags to be on the pricey side theres a 2008 tdci for £9995 113,700 miles white 90 on e bay
  29. 1 point
    I would hope they are square but I probably cut them with a Stanley blade. As soon as I get chance I'll check but at the mo it's tooo cold! Using it for the daily drive and it's dark too. Thanks for the advice (and the thread hijack Western).
  30. 1 point
    A paint job that covers the door hinge bolts and rear cross member flanges, and forgets to paint the tub cross member below the rear door is unlikely to have been done with much care in preparation. I bet it'll start peeling or blistering within a year. It does all rather smack of being tarted up for inflated sale while covering a lot of sins.
  31. 1 point
    by 2003 they moved on from the 10-14p engines to the 15p its basically the same engine with the revised head without the extra fuel return drilling that commonly cracked also had different injectors and fuel regulator not sure about the bottom end the very early td5 were a bit unresponsive the power was there but they felt like they needed winding up to get going not sure when this got sorted by land rover having driven a standard 2004 15p its a totally different machine tune wise to the early one from the late 90's the later ones are a joy to drive
  32. 1 point
    Good luck on finding a Defender WITHOUT an oil leak, mind you it might be that one parked next to the Unicorn over there? 🤣🤣🤣
  33. 1 point
    Finally we had some snow in Denmark as well. Just in time for the Christmas-Lane. Here's how the 88" Looked this morning: And meeting up before the trip with our mates:
  34. 1 point
    I spent the afternoon towing BMWs who followed their sat navs
  35. 1 point
    I was in a similar position to you about a year ago with a similar budget but was looking for a county 110. I can only echo what everyone else has said about looking at and driving as many examples as you can and preferably taking someone with you that has some experience. I would say that unfortunately 90% of the people/dealers I met told at least one bare faced lie and tried to pull the wool over my eyes in one way or another. Not sure where you are but I'm in SW Scotland if you look at one anywhere around here let me know and I'll come and view one with you. I can recomend an honest and knowledgable dealer near rossendale if you're near there as well, he would charge but it's peace of mind and if you don't end up taking the one you go to see you will have learned enough to look at more on your own. I looked at nearly 20 defenders over about 6 months before I settled on one and even then I've ended up with work to do that I hadn't caught during a couple of inspections. Do all the usual vin checks before parting with any cash, check it's MOT history online to see what kind of life it's had and the RAC check to make sure it's legit, don't buy from anywhere other than the address on the v5 if it's a private sale. I'm not sure I can really summarise what to look for but for £9k you should be getting a good example and I'd want a service history of some kind for that amount of money. The centre rails of the chasis are the most visible but are less likely to be bad, have a good crawl around in the dirt with a magnet and check over the rear crossmember, outriggers and bulkhead. Look into waxoiling, a good job isn't as simple as spraying some waxoyl around but that will hide a multitude of sins so don't assume it's fine because its been waxoyled. A lot of buyers would prefer to see it in it's untreated state to assess it properly so ask yourself why they've done it recently? Out of the goodness of their hearts or to hide something. I'm happy with my 300tdi, it's got enough oomph for me, easy to work on and the parts are cheaper. The TD5's are great engines though, more fun to drive and still workable on at home. Most engine issues on the 300 are easy enough to fix, check for any sign of head gasket failure and if there's any sign it's been overheated in the past walk away. They're pretty bomb proof but with your budget you shouldn't really be getting one with black smoke pouring out the back, knocks/bangs, serious oil leaks etc. It should run nicely. Anyway good look, it's a nice looking landy but if you don't end up with that one then there will definitely be another just around the corner which you'll want just as much!
  36. 1 point
    If the wheels are able to cope with the weight.... You will need to either align the bolt heads so they don't catch on the wheel, as others have said, or get some alternative bolts of a suitable strength... The picture of the inside of the alloy posted above does show a max weight.. 650 or 850 kg??
  37. 1 point
    Have a look on the back of the wheel, the rating is probably on there somewhere.
  38. 1 point
    Many thanks for the links, western. I'm now having a conversation with TurboRebuild, and will update with the final conclusions. Mike
  39. 1 point
    Thanks for that. I was hoping someone would come along and explain it.
  40. 1 point
    Scotland... according to the BBC weather map that's a small place in the north of England. :-p
  41. 1 point
    UNF not UNS... S stands for special and its not special, just not common.
  42. 1 point
    Not that long ago I had a idiot nearly t bone me in the 90. Mr chav didn't see not hear me...even with the noise from the v8. hmm. nothing much more I can do 're seeing me....hearing....thats a thought. The 90s horn is like a mouse be trodden on...so I had a plan. meet my additional horn upgrade 180psi and erm around 187Db 🤣🤣 triple trumpet own high-speed high power compressor and 2 Gallon air tank. pictures and video to come. unboxed today and the 12 year old in me was propa appy n chuffed
  43. 1 point
    That's been great viewing and super photo captions. Thanks! Looks like a super trip.
  44. 1 point
    I joined up with some Jeeps, a couple of Suzukis, a Dodge Hemi and a Chevy Surburban for some off road trail exploration. The meeting place was a couple of hours of highway driving away so I had some time to contemplate life whilst driving a 2.5 N/A diesel (1.67 transfer case) as people passed me. In no particular order, these questions arose: 1. When the four way flashers are turned on (for going up hills if your speed is less than 70 km/h so other cars going 110 km/h don't rear end you) - Why doesn't the flasher on the binnacle match the flasher on the switch? 2. Why does the speedometer in a Defender go to 200 km/h? Is this to encourage sunny optimism in the owner? Should it be remade to max out at ... say... 100 km/h? 3. Why is it that no matter how loud you turn up the radio, it will not drown out the frequency of the squeak behind the binnacle? 4. Speaking of noises... Why is it that the truck makes squeaks, groans and rattles on pavement that disappear when on dirt or trails? Is it that the truck is happier? 5. For cars that drive behind you on the highway with their high beams on: Is it better to turn on your rear fog lights (or work lights to really scare them) or is it better to accelerate and make a big cloud of diesel smoke and make them think that they are in a fog bank? What musings have any of you had?
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    For me the muse is..... Why were Defenders sold "Ready Made"!?! When a Kit form would have been SO much better!!!! Or sold in bits with a monthly magazine, and just buy the issues that you need Lets face it if you are not repairing/fixing it, you are going round it doing all the "Up Grades" it requires to make it useable!
  47. 1 point
    OH MY GOD !!!!!. Oh dear, ..... well guys....i suppose i could just sit here and give you all a right pile of garbage as to the problem and say that the answer was,, this and that, blah blah blah. When the reality is completely different. However it would appear that the problem MAY have been my own doing. If it is...then i hold my hands up,.. and admit it, and at the end of the day, these forums are about learning from your own mistakes and from others. It's the way we learn. Steve b and Bowie 69....following your suspicions, and after trying to adjust the timing and checking every hose and working in the cold for what seemed an eternity, i decided....well, time for the rocker cover to come off and re check the tappets, even though i was pretty certain AND CONVINCED ,that i had crossed every T and dotted every I. So..off came the rocker cover and the re check began,...NO 8 fully opened /down and adjusted NO 1 ok there, lovely, it was at this point that my eyes glanced at the THIRD rocker along,....oh my god,...the nut had fallen off and was lying at the side of the push rod..eeek. I carefully removed this and was just about to replace it, when..i then noticed the hardened rocker valve cap was ALSO MISSING. This too was lying further on by number 6 pushrod. So...the rocker shaft came off .. YET AGAIN, and i decided to fully inspect every pushrod, pushrod brass seat, every rocker, every nut to make sure no damage had been caused elsewhere. As you can imagine, this took some time. As it happens....NO DAMAGE. Thank god !!!!. I feel very, very lucky to say the least that my engine didn't go bang. How i got away with that one,..i have no idea but the nut and valve cap was pretty much stuck down with the 20/50 engine oil. This nut MIGHT, have come loose of it's own accord, Maybe it was my fault...i don't know. So... i methodically re checked/set the tappets and made damn sure the lock nuts were tight. Re fitted the rocker cover, and after a sharp intake of breath, tentatively started her back up ................NO MORE BLACK SMOKE !!!!!. Thank god for that ( i thought). Took her for a spin round the block and she pulls like a train. Timing pump just requires a little adjustment but that's all. The main thing is everything's ok ,....for now,.. ( TOUCHWOOD)!!!. So......THANK YOU, for pointing me in the right direction guys about the tappets, otherwise i would still be trying to sort it out. All the best, cheers, Dave.
  48. 1 point
    I did this on my Puma with a clear stop/tail base and white LED bulbs. I still have the loom somewhere so could post it to you for the price of the postage if its any use to you. It picks power up from a plug on the passenger side near the bulkhead and the dim/dip in the drivers side wing IIRC.
  49. 1 point
    I have standard mud flaps and have made them detachable! Check out my build thread in my signature for more pictures! Steve
  50. 1 point
    Thanks for response, will get one ordered, assume this is part PRC 8230 ? Don't understand why this would cause the fuel gauge to show full when the tank is almost empty ?


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