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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Now we all know and love Nige's misadventures, but I got an e-mail from a mate today which proves it's not just Nige... Basically he sent 3 pictures of his bathroom looking like something from Texas Chainsaw Massacre, including a bath half-full of blood-coloured water and blood all over the sink/walls Guess who bought a home piercing kit? His quote was: "The cartoid artery extends quite far down the face. Whodathunkit? Lost about a pint/pint and a half of blood and had to get the paramedic out. He had a good laugh " So, yeah, not just Nige, and not just Land Rovers!
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    Thank you for this extremely useful post! One of the difficulties for new users of MS, is understanding what people write on forums, let alone remembering what all the acronyms stand for and then sometimes, tables are produced without a label on the axes, or sometimes without a title on the table. This can make it a bit of a trial for someone such as myself, who is trying to understand what goes where, etc. I must say, however, that this thread with the helpful and well-wriiten responses, has been one of the most useful threads I have read and I have saved the address in my MS installation notes. Thank you everyone! Cheers Charlie
  4. 1 point
    I've just about finished the 200 Tdi into Series and awaiting the time to do the handbrake. As the Hybrid is just that - an Hybrid, I don't care about originallity etc.. Stage one front, full power pack, powersteering, parabolics, Koni's, roll cage, everything metal gavanized. 2.5 is also a very nice engine in a SWB - but cold start is less good. Steve Parker does a good 300 Tdi into Series conversion kit.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    The best way, IMO... Disconnect the drag link from the box. Then adjust. It lets you feel when it starts it tighten up.
  7. 1 point
    I’m having some new proper shovel back seats made up for it - and I’ve picked up a Waeco heated set kit to go in them. The pad for the base has to go in the back and visa-versa, but with that they seem a good fit. I tested them out tonight with my 12v transformer and all is well, so I’ll send them over to the seat maker 😊
  8. 1 point
    Internal diameter of mine at the tail pipr (200Tdi) is 50 mm. External 54 mm Engine external is 57 mm do 2 mm thick would be around 53 ish
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Really liking this! Fitting the bulkhead is a big step, panels will go on in no time its a simple vehicle after all
  11. 1 point
    The bulkhead is back from paint 😊. I wanted it not too shiny .. so the painter has toned it down a bit, just hope he can match it with the rest of the bodywork! 😂 I love it - and have spent what seems like hours just staring at it. loads can happen now: The autosparks loom I bought nearly 10 years ago has been dug out and will go on. The steering can be looked at, cleaned, painted and fitted. I’m fitting a 200tdi air filter where the air con unit would fit. I was planning to use the standard Land Rover diesel air hose, but it’s a no go - so the plan is stainless pipe painted black and run around the back with rubber elbows, mounted on the rear lifting eye bolts. Going to have a go at using 300tdi defender exhaust sections to make up a system for it. I plan to still use the old Lucas RB106 Regulator box - but with a 50amp inline fuse inside instead of the coils and points. The brakes have bled, but a clamp on the front drivers side brake line gave a much firmer pedal. It seems the adjuster cam is spinning too - so it needs to come to bits and see what’s what. It almost feels like it’s nearly there - but I know there is a lot of work left in the bodywork. One other thing I’m pleased with is that all the little galv parts had been covered in really thick silver paint, which is coming off really nicely to reveal lots of really nice original finishes. I’m only really painting it because it has been repainted so badly - so I’m delighted to be uncovering some of its original finish - even if it’s only small amounts 😊
  12. 1 point
    I read somewhere that the ECU for the LS engines use more code just to stabilise engine speed when the air-con is switched on than the entire codebase of MS1...
  13. 1 point
    That would go through IVA with no problem. Design/crumple zones are not considered provided the exterior projections meet the regs and the structure/seat belt mounts are up to the job. Mike
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Just finished tinkering with mine and tested it out, a few minor niggles with the 'handbook' and some poor connectors in the loom; but very pleased with it overall, looking forward to making use of it .
  16. 1 point
    buzzer & 2 diodes fitted, here's the result. WP_20180616_14_22_52_Pro.mp4
  17. 1 point
    There that’s more like it.
  18. 1 point
    Yep, make a record as you go noting where the wire start, where it goes to & the colour, then you should be able to fix any future problems.
  19. 1 point
    Yes - that's the blighter - at last I can be sure what it is; many thanks for taking the time to post the photo!
  20. 1 point
    Yep, dim dip resistor looks like the upper item, lower pink relay is the dim dip relay
  21. 1 point
    in no particular order --- the 5 tabs on rear crossmember [2 bolts/nuts at each outer end & 2 bolts into each of 3 nut plates on the central 3 tabs. nut plates are actually rivetted to the body lip. 2 mounts just outboard of rear [2nd row] seat belt floor brackets bolt/nut each side] 2 brackets from cross member to rear of front seatbox panel 4 bolts/nuts 4 body brackets from rear outriggers to body panel below front edge of 2nd row rear seats. 4 bolts/nuts through the rear seat underfloor beam 2 bolts/nuts to brackets just in front of front seat box lower front lip 2 bolts/nuts each side bulkhead to chassis brackets 2 bolts each side front wing to chassis brackets & the bulkhead/door pillar bolts/nuts 1 each side to front outriggers arrows in blue are where these bolts/nuts fit Attached Thumbnails
  22. 1 point
    Someone told me once they were a UNC thread, what I do know is that no bolt I've ever had has fitted! Have usually managed to wedge something in there enough to pull the CV home into the stub axle though.
  23. 1 point
    Just for clarity: Never never never never never never never never never never never never never replace a fuse with a bigger fuse to solve a problem, unless the problem is that you car isn't on fire enough.
  24. 1 point
    What about the bulkhead support brackets?
  25. 1 point
    i did my 110 in 2 months and 2 weeks outside with no ramp ect.... that included overhaulling both axles inside and out, new brake lines, nuts bolts ect.... i think if you did the hours you plan you could do it a bit quicker. just to give you an idea of what you can do....


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