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Showing most liked content since 09/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Who’s middle aged and knackard then me my new service tool is the nastiest farm bike I could find that moved under it own power! Then I fitted a cheap eBay crane to it and the most ridiculously cheap eBay winch I could find. I started by looking at ancient lawn mowers when this diseased brute crossed my path. Anyhoo, the concept is good enough for anyone: build a cheap mobile garden crane that can load a trailer that it can tow. It doesn’t need to carry the load, just the crane, because dragging an engine hoist across grass was a job for a much younger me !
  2. 3 points
    No no no no its just too long ! The best place for anything that long is in a canal. 😆 Mo
  3. 3 points
    They use 2.5m steel for the legs same as Richards and 4mm for rear x member, bolt in gear box x member as standard. They don't remove any excess galv from bolt holes but the chassis they had on display didn't look bad TBH. Guess I'll see when it arrives in 3 weeks! I'll be sure to put up a rebuild thread and let you all know what it is like.
  4. 2 points
    I finally got around to making this adjustment today, and it has stopped the gear lever from rattling. It only took me ten years to get around to it!! And a change of Land Rover, l now have a 110 TD5, the 90 was sold in 2014. I found this old post of mine while searching for instructions on how to adjust the gear lever.
  5. 2 points
    To get back at them a bit I regulary buy rather expensive parts from them on Ebay. TDV8 complete interior for 1500 etc.. I make an appointment for collection in a few days. Mark the item as paid afterwards and ofcourse never show up :-) . I hope the will have to pay the ebay charges each time. After I while I will leave some negative feedback, telling the parts where damaged and they wouldn't refund :-)
  6. 2 points
    Daaaaamn that's clean. That's cleaner and straighter than anything left the flippin' factory. The only thing keeping me from a fit of jealous rage is it's the wrong wheelbase No matter how much I spend on the 109 it will never be clean or straight I guess that's the penalty for using it off-road. So many parts I've cleaned and fitted with great care and then one outing later they have a permanent matt brown patina that shall never be removed no matter how much you clean it
  7. 2 points
    They’ve gone back to the old tactic of ignoring my calls, sms and email since I sent them the my bank info for refund! probably a stalling tactic as my bank and the police fraud, trading standards are on the case already. I won’t let go until full refund is done, would explore all the options available even ones I can’t mention here. They got to be stopped. Times are hard and unacceptable for some conman to sit and keep scamming people from their hard earned cash. Having a broken vehicle engine that costs 3.5k alone makes ones finances meddled, and on top of that a conman thieving another £1,500. Very Shameful
  8. 2 points
    It actually has the same clearance under the diff on these tiny tyres as the 80" does on the 7.50's 😁 There isn't much grip though, perhaps I should enter a trackday with the 80" on these wheels? 😅
  9. 2 points
    Every single "New Defender" thread... No-one knows anything about it at all but everyone is absolutely certain it's all terrible and there's some big conspiracy
  10. 2 points
    The funny thing is, tonight the missus got home (in her 2003 SW) and said she'd been told one of her brake lights was not working. l took the lamp out and it was 1/3 full of water. The bulb had blown and the bulb contacts were rusted. l fitted a spare lamp unit but it makes a bit of a mockery of my previous comments about having no trouble with water in the lamps.
  11. 2 points
    So, it appears it was simply the earth and a low battery combined. The earth chassis bolt was a bit rusty, replaced with new bolt and it instantly turned over!
  12. 1 point
    Go and have a play here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html With standard tyres and diffs, that setup will give you 2850 RPM at 60mph. A 1.4 box will give you 2411 RPM at 60mph and 2071 RPM for a 1.2 ratio. 1.2 is what that gearbox is designed for and 2k revs is well in the power band for a 2.8TGV, albeit at the noisy end
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Cheers guys and crclifford if you get issued a size 180/112 by mistake i have the usual beer tokens for exchange
  15. 1 point
    I'd actually drive that, and it's better looking than Toyota's idea... https://jalopnik.com/the-toyota-tj-cruiser-concept-is-here-for-a-brutal-and-1819210844
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Peaklander Yes, they do seem to know their job, i've just got back after delivering my hot spots from Turners, and the first thing they did was to try picking one up with a magnet, not magnetic as Frieda stated. My old one's picked up straight away so obviously my last lot from britpart was cheapos. Just goes to show doesn't it. The britpart one's were £24 i believe for 4 with free delivery and vat included. The one's from Turners £86 with delivery and vat. Even Steve, who's doing the job, said, "These feel far better quality and a nicer finish to them, and, if anything, they appear a slightly tighter fit, should have no more problems with these" So that filled me with confidence.
  18. 1 point
    Was about to say that, bu thought nahh this guy knows it all and is an innovator 😂
  19. 1 point
    Nah! run it on the jag tyres for a challenge
  20. 1 point
    Oh and the quikstrip wheels come in different grades...the harsher ones I've tried will strip paint and birmabright if you get carried away
  21. 1 point
    Cheers western yes wired in ok while I had the cover off thought I'd put the voltmeter on it as when I started her up wipers wouldn't work at all so switched the stalk on had 12v on the green wire , so put the plug back in and hey presto they worked . Turns out the problem was the connector on the main loom , it doesn't fit snugly enough in to the park switch so it works loose and the wipers stop working ,but not loose enough that you could tell if you take the cover off to look. And it doesn't fit tight enough to make 2nd speed work , push the plug in firmly and everything works as it should , so wrapped some electrical tape round the plug pushed it in and all works fine. So need to look for a new plug for the wiring loom , result . Thanks western and Simon for the help glad I haven't got to take the whole dash off. cheers Ian
  22. 1 point
    Fixed! I checked all the connections and the small wire on the alternator, for the charge light, had no cable insulation at the end and was dirty, I cleaned it up and everything works perfect again. Added some insulaton to prevend it from happening again. Thanks guy's!
  23. 1 point
    What have CV joints or one-shot grease got to do with anything?
  24. 1 point
    Well, I could get *very* unfriendly right about now, but let's not. Electrolysis is easy. And also rather inefficient. And you still only have hydrogen, not a fuel cell to use it with. Have a look here on the basics on how fuel cells work: http://americanhistory.si.edu/fuelcells/basics.htm What you're talking about is generating hydrogen from water, and then injecting it into the engine's air supply. It's been proven over many, many years that this idea is utter bull excrement.
  25. 1 point
    Changed the fuel pump (3 times) and flushed the lines. The thing is it runs fine down to nearly empty with no loss of power. You can stop it and it starts completely normally, even if left overnight providing it is on the flat or facing down hill. Even then it starts then cuts out until it has been reprimed. Something is allowing the fuel to run back when the fuel tank is below a certain level (around half a tank) above this no problem what so ever. Going to try a another air bleed and a filter non return tube (not sure how it works as it has nothing in it) and see if that locks the fuel in the high pressure line - failing that I am still leaning to the regulator. Toby
  26. 1 point
    Quick update... Yes, it is the seal in the aluminium housing, and yes, it was the seal. In the end I was really OCD about keeping the seal journal clean and made 5 guide studs by cutting the head of bolts and putting a chamfer on the end. I fitted a seal from Turner Engineering and had the engine running on the drive for an hour and 15 minutes without it leaking so fingers crossed all is well. Thanks for all the replies. Mark
  27. 1 point
    Another update, still with crappy front camera photos though.. Got fed up with the plastic tank, couldn't really find a good place for it after I moved the winch over, and its such a hassle to fill. So decided that instead of getting fuel in a Jerry can, then filling it over, why not just swap out the whole can? So a filler extension was heavily modified as I needed both a return, feed and breather all in the cap. I obviously didn't want to do any modifications to the can itself. Got pretty good in the end but it did take some time. Notice I have a cutter pin holding the cap closed so it can't fly open in case of a rollover, and a reusable ziptie to hold the Jerry can cap so it doesn't rattle: The new placement also meant a new place for the Battery was needed. So this was moved to the back where the Winch once was. God I move stuff around a lot
  28. 1 point
    looks great =)
  29. 1 point
    Welcome to the Madhouse. Yes - awesome pics and I really enjoy the Iran trips (go there for work). Friend of mine is in Turkey right now en route from Kazachstan to Holland. Thanks for posting ! P.S. Your English is better than mine..
  30. 1 point
    I rather like this one, the writing is quite "futuristic"
  31. 1 point
    So taking a vehicle that I've spent the last 9 months rebuilding and modifying straight to a comp safari with no testing and completing 11 out of the 12 laps with a minor mudflap issue, I think, is pretty good going! I drove it out of the garage to sort the last few bits out before loading it onto the trailer for Sunday. Bush farm was a new site over at Robertsbridge in East Sussex. The ground was grassy and damp in the morning so it made for a slippery morning or racing. The circuit was good with lots of wide open bits and tight bits between the trees. After the first 4 laps the course was closed as it was getting to fast for current MSA regulations and so some course changes were made adding some chicanes in to slow the course down. The course now included a tight C section down and up a steepish bank (kind of like the bank down by the A27 at Slindon). This progressively got more and more difficult to get up and by late afternoon when everyone was completing there last laps there were some failed accents. A few were me and because of the steep angle (and maybe my long mudflaps) I had no choice but to drive over one of my rear mud flaps causing the rear bracket to bend. I managed to get it home the first time and straighten it out in the pits, but the second time was more severe and had to stop on the track to straighten. After this we chose to DNF the 12th and last lap as it was just going to happen again! There was a high rate of reliability with only 2 vehicles falling short of the 12 laps. It was a lovely sunny day again, we truly have been lucky with the weather! The shocks did their job , but come mid afternoon it was getting bumpier again. Now the surface in the morning was damp cut grass with longish (growing) grass, (It made for very slippery slidey cornering!) and as the day went on the ground dried out and the grass disappeared. The ground was drying out with a washboard effect, I think, causing it to be bumpier. I have extended bump stops fitted and so I've already swapped to standard height ones for the next round as I don't know but the axle could be clipping the bump stop?... The car performed well, everything worked, nothing broke. I have already straightened the rear wheel arch bracket and trimmed the mud flaps. I've also fixed the rear view camera - the cable had come unplugged in the dash! The main thing I need to look at and maybe adjust on each lap at the next round is the kick down cable. I tried it low box and could hear it kick down when I had my foot to the floor, but I think it may have been to slow, but I tried it in high box and it wasn't really kicking down. Whether this is due to high box being too high, I'm not sure, but the engine wasn't revving as high as others! I had a look at the kick down cable and found you can pull it out until it stops then you can overcome some resistance and pull it out a little more. Now I'm guess this is the kick down bit and as far as the cable will come out, so this is where it needs to be adjusted too. But slackening this off will change your shift point right? I will also true doing manual gear selection at the next round too. So I'm pretty much ready for the last round over near Dover as I did all my repairs on Monday! Steve
  32. 1 point
    Use a neutral cure sealant , not some stuff from B&Q designed for windows. HTH
  33. 1 point
    Ok thanks very much for that, I looked on the Stage one forum ( not a member ) last night and read that no-one makes them anyway so have decided the only option I have really is to bit the bullet and get a 10 spline diff and re-use my old 10 spline half shafts and sell the diff and half shafts I have recently bought But again thanks for taking the time to look for me
  34. 1 point
    I bought 4 stop/tail led lights from bolt on bits ebay shop a while ago. they will sell individual units as well as sets.
  35. 1 point
    Most of the suppliers will do individual LED units without having to purchase a full vehicle set. Paddocks do them... http://www.paddockspares.com/led-stop-tail-lamp.html your location may preclude some suppliers though!
  36. 1 point
    the idea is great - innovative from experience in this area. Keep things dead simple. complexity normally ends up biting you in the proverbial when you are rushing to get back out on stage in 40°+ heat. Mount the gearbox and transfer box to one bolt in crossmember and then build yourself a specific gearbox adaptor for your chosen jack. Japanese pickups use this arrangement and I can easily do a clutch replacement in 3 hours start to finish. work to ensure access. Access is the key. Commonise bolt sizes wherever possible too! Also check your specific competition regulations because 9/10 times quarter turn fasteners holding floor and transmission tunnel panels are not allowed. if you can make the transmission removable without having to remove tunnel paneling then life becomes much easier.
  37. 1 point
    The Gwyn Lewis standard sized HD one I've got in my 'pile of bits I really must get round to fitting someday' is approx 24cm from the underside of the top face to the bottom of the bottom face...
  38. 1 point
    Your supposed to used different sized ones. There are 40 between 58.325mm up to 59.300mm in increments of 0.025mm. As i haven't got the facilities to set the gear bearing group up properly with a dial indicator etc. Im going to use the existing fixed width one, tighten up to a reasonable force and hopefully not pinch too tight to impede the rotation. Anything will be better than how it was.
  39. 1 point
    Pretty sure I've got an old crush spacer in my "boxoflt230bits" and if memory serves it was deformed way more than the one in your pics. Will measure tonight if I can find it.
  40. 1 point
    I generally fill through the plug on the rad and then do as Ralph suggests and finally check that the heater is getting hot before replacing the cap.
  41. 1 point
    I have a 300tdi in my series which uses the 300tdi motor mounts, these mounts transfer very little vibration in the vehicle. As for noise control I used "silent coat" over all panels from the seatbox downwards. Plus on the floor panels I have 10mm high density foam. The one thing that helped the most with noise control in the cabin is plugging or sealing all the holes in the body panels. This took a long time but effective in the end. The one area that I would like to point out that created the most noise is the lack of sealing between the bulkhead and the transmission tunnel cover. Solve that and you'll enjoy quieter motoring. We now can drive long distances without the need for ear plugs. Todd.
  42. 1 point
    Morning All, Treasurer speaking As many will be aware, after I looked into the funding situation of the forum, and noticed that past upgrades had made incorrect status changes, on resetting things to be as they should have been, the issue of Members & their "Avatars" arose,. After much chewing and discussions in the A&M Team I am now able to give not just some clarification and a final update, but have also decided that it would be a good idea for members new and old to have it very clearly outlined as to the groups, and the processes of moving within each. So here goes ! Finbally, on the question of Avatars, if you are in "Settled In" or either of the 2 x 'Supporter' groups, it is possible you may not have the ability to replace your Picture, if this is the case please PM me and I'll go and make the appropriate changes, in the meantime this will be posted at the top of every forum so new members can see about the groups, and also about how to go about supporting the Forum financially This "Header" will be deleted in say approx 1 month - just leaving the outline of groups and fundings set out below. In the meantime I have a lot of work to do behind the scenes to finalise everything. There are still 3 x People who I have regular monies from that I cannot allocate ! these are : Mr & Mrs Sheppard Mr C Grady M Baynham James Lees If you are one of the 4 x reading this PLEASE PM ME !!!!! Sorry its taken a while, but its a mammoth task + then to also get to grips with the historical issues which then arose on top which were rather unexpected !. Nige ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How 'Membership Levels' work & How to help financially support LR4x4.com Guest The "GUEST" Level. As a "Guest" you have very limited board access, as you are not yet a LR4x4 Member. You can view and read parts of the Forum, but cannot post or comment. To do this you need to Register New Faces. Now you are a Member. However, all your initial posts are scanned and approved by Admin & Moderators to check your not a Scammer,, Troll, or posting unsuitable posts. When we have decided your a serious new member of LR4x4 you move to : Getting Comfortable Now you can post without approval, and upload attachments, use the 'Personal Messenger' system, 'Calendar', and 'Gallery', and access to other 'Sub Forums'. Later you move into the final Group on the board : Settled In This is the last of the boards standard 'Groups'. In 'Settled In' you do however get the benefit of an "Avatar" (A picture of your choice you can change and alter as you wish) which shows on the LHS of your posts under your forum name and above your 'Settled In' Title, and you are free to now sell within the For Sale Section of LR4x4. As with 'Settled In, ' and all the other Standard Groups, all the above groups have Advertising showing as part of the boards standard system. 'Silver & Gold Supporters Groups" You may have noticed the 'Silver' & 'Gold' Banners some members show in their profile and posts, these are 2 Additional 'Special Groups' that many members kindly join. These 2 Special Member Groups are : "Forum Financial Supporter" & "Long Term Forum Financial Supporter". As you may guess these Groups are reserved for those who value the Forum so much they wish to contribute a small amount to assist with the boards not insignificant running costs via a Donation. All A&M Team Members Past & Present are in this group as a recognition to their commitment & contributions (many also contribute financially too) to LR4x4 Forum Financial Supporter You can enter this group (from ANY of the Groups above) jumping straight into this Group via a Donation of £25, which is valid for a year from payment. After that year expires you return to whichever Standard Group you merit. A reminder is sent 1 month before expiry. Payment can be made via a Bank Transfer, or, more commonly via a PayPal Payment. PLEASE also advise our Treasurer Hybrid_From_Hell who will ensure your changes are made. The additional benefits over and above "Settled in" level, are Cleaner Forum Viewing - No Adverts Access to 'Special Promotions' LR4x4 has from time to time (Always at a discount to Forum Financial Supporters & Long Term Forum Financial Supporters) A "SILVER" Banner under your Forum Name - Giving recognition of your kind and valuable Donation to LR4x4 Long Term Forum Financial Supporter This group is the same as 'Forum Financial Supporter' except the Banner is the "Gold" Banner. You can joing this group helping fund the forum via either a Monthly Standing order of just £2, or a Yearly Standing order of £24,...... either moves you into this top group, along with the "Gold Banner" Cleaner Forum Viewing - No Adverts Access to 'Special Promotions' LR4x4 has from time to time (Always at a discount to Forum Financial Supporters & Long Term Forum Financial Supporters) A "GOLD" Banner under your Forum Name - Giving recognition of your kind and valuable Donation to LR4x4 The PayPal account is accessed via The Orange "DONATE" button at the top of the Home page on the forum, or via this link : PayPal Donation Link For Standing Orders and Bank information - Contact either the Treasurer - Hybrid_From_Hell or any of the A&M Team, we don't post up this information for obvious reasons ! LR4x4 exists purely for members. All of the A&M Team give up their time for FREE, no Salaries, Fees, Commissions etc etc , are paid or taken by ANY of the A&M team. All and ANY contributions go 100.00% to the forum running costs with £0.00 Deductions. Always has been... always will be On behalf of the LR4x4 A&M team : One last thing - Enjoy LR4x4.com
  43. 1 point
    10mm is a lot. the case does not look worn and to be honest it would be impossible to wear that much away. Theres only 10 parts the the inter shaft assembly including all the O rings and nuts etc. So Gear, Crush Spacer, 2 x Bearings, 2 x O rings, Shaft, Plate, Bolt, Lock Nut. How theres a 10mm gap is a mystery. However you are correct about the case being squeezed to take up the float but NOT 10mm! Possibly 1mm max!
  44. 1 point
    What FF & Bowie said ^^^ I had a 1986 V8 90, converted from 3.5 to 3.9. Never had a problem at MOT time despite their computer thinking it was still a 3.5. My current 1986 V8 110, was 3.5 then 3.9 and now 4.2. I've not had to MOT since the latest engine change, but been through 2 tests as a 3.9 without problem. That's 3 different MOT stations too.
  45. 1 point
    Update! Trip to Peterborough for the LRO Show yesterday and did a cash deal with Shielder for a new galv chassis, about £700 cheaper and lead time of 3 weeks. Now busy studying @western's chassis swap thread to see what else I need before it lands.
  46. 1 point
    I still want someone to fit the polycarbonate see-thru version for ultimate awesomeness: https://www.hedman.com/product-detail/8401
  47. 1 point
    Hi, once you have removed it, get it on a bench, remove the sump and give me a call and I will talk you through removing the gear, changing the intermediate bearings and dropping the gear back in, or you can stick it on a pallet and send it to me , if it just needs these 2 bearings, with new spacer and nut only about £75 parts and labour and about £60 return carriage, Dave 01582 496040
  48. 1 point
    IIRC, one of the "three up the middle" is a dowel. On mine (which I pulled last week), I initially thought it was jammed until I realised I'd forgotten the 17mm nut on the stud at the top which the earth wire for the reversing switch was attached. if you haven't already, remove the right hand gearbox mount altogether - unbolt it from the chassis and the mounting rubber. That gives a bit more freedom to wiggle the box free.
  49. 1 point
    Well I for one welcome our new fascist bully-boy oppressors
  50. 1 point
    There was going around a while ago, the rest are: P: Left inside main tire almost needs replacement. S: Almost replaced left inside main tire. P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough. S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft. P: Something loose in cockpit. S: Something tightened in cockpit. P: Dead bugs on windshield. S: Live bugs on back-order. P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 feet per minute descent. S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground. P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear. S: Evidence removed. P: DME volume unbelievably loud. S: DME volume set to more believable level. P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick. S: That's what they're for. P: IFF inoperative. S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode. P: Suspected crack in windshield. S: Suspect you're right. P: Number 3 engine missing. S: Engine found on right wing after brief search. P: Aircraft handles funny. (I love this one!) S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right, and be serious. P: Target radar hums. S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics. P: Mouse in cockpit. S: Cat installed. P. Noise coming from under instrument panel. Sounds like a midget pounding on something with a hammer. S: Took hammer away from midget Not entirely sure of the legalities involved with putting stuff like this in an aircraft document set, but hey ho...


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