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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/26/2016 in all areas

  1. Just wondering if there are any Farmer's Boys who are members here.
    4 points
  2. Hi guys We bought a bulkhead for the 90 yesterday, its been re-con'd but a few years ago and never fitted so no work needed just painting, so once the 2a is finished we can start swapping it over aswell as fit the smooth roof we bought earlier this year
    3 points
  3. Guys I have an early model defender the under the driver seat fuel tank. What are the sizes of the fuels lines, feed and return for the efi v8. Even better if someone knew the size in -6 or -8 for example. Thanks Shane
    3 points
  4. Evening guys, haven't been in the Landy world for a bit, but I am now back with a new addition to the family. New challenge for me after being used to the 3.9 V8, now I need to familiarise myself with the 2.5 N/A diesel. So far so good (it's only been two days!! ) She was Army fire service, someone decided to off-road her for a wee while, but thankfully I got my hands on her before it went on too long. I'm going to keep her as original as possible and over the years and bring her back up to a well,deserved standard. ( it'll take time but can't wait!) Already knew about the cold start procedure and works very well. Very little smoke on start up and after a gear change for the first 5 mins there's a little bit of smoke. Clears after that. High low range seem to be fine (steep driveway) although I don't know how to get into diff lock. I was advised the bulb may need replaced for it too. All dash lights work, already taken the Sh*t sports steering wheel off and put the original back on. Fan works but I think I could blow faster ha! All lights work and are military spec. ( I really like them) every single thing seems to work. It's been painted a desert sand but my intention is to go NATO green. I prefer this to the fire service red. So just thought I'd introduce the new addition the the best landy forum around.
    2 points
  5. Recently released by the government. Get your copies now! https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/502705/FOI2016-00702_2320-D-128-711_Final.pdf I met a chap from Hobsons once who said they had had a contract to convert 50 ROW spec Defenders to 1998 spec (looms, connectors, fuel lines, etc), just so that they could homogenise the part numbers (which sounded a bit barmy). Taking a look at that manual with all its NATO stock numbers, etc. it makes me understand completely!
    2 points
  6. What do you think about this late Series 3 109? Outwardly ex military but with plenty of civvy touches [CL version?] http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272113985357?ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
    2 points
  7. Anyone familiar with 101s will know of their front driveshaft design issue, commonly called the "101 Rumble" where the front driveshaft causes mild vibration and noise on the overrun above about 90kph. There are two ways this can be reduced - the first is rotating the front axle housing up 17.5 degrees which is a fairly big job and I am not wanting to go this route. The second way is to lower the engine/gearbox on the drivers side so reducing the steep angle of the front driveshaft. HOWEVER I am not sure what the recommended amount is for lowering the engine and gearbox. Does anywith 101 knowledge know how much to lower? For those who might want to suggest modifiying the driveshaft, I can assure you that tis has been looked by many, many people over the years and variations have not been successful. Maybe a shaft with CVs at either end would work but be expensive to build - likewise a D2 style shaft with a double carden has proven not to work. So I would appreciate advice on how much to lower the engine. Thanks Garry
    2 points
  8. To add the above, the 101 manual steering box is a bit of a weak point, the ball bearings can corrode or shear and the races pit until they fail and the column unwinds instead of steering, it happened to me! I t was years ago when spares were still obtainable easily. You can machine the column and put proper bearings in but it's a fair bit of work.
    2 points
  9. I googled for hours to try and fix this and finally I found something useful. To reset a locked out Eberspacher D5LC (may work on other models) all you need to do I short out two wires. You do not need to buy a 701 or 801 controller or take it to a dealer. 25 1688 50 00 / 12V and 25 1689 50 00 / 24V in versions R0,R1,R2,R3,R4 are confirmed to work. Although you need to short the wires for longer time on the R3 and R4 models of ECU. Up to 5 seconds for the R3,R4 and up to 2 seconds for the R0,R1,R2. To do this try to start the unit as normal. This will not work as its locked out however you will get an illuminated Green LED in the middle of the dial. With the Green LED illuminated short out the two pins as per the diagram below. Do not remove the wires just short them out where they are. The heater should immediately start up if the duration of short is long enough. Mine took 3 seconds maybe as its an R4 Remove the short as soon as the heater starts up The green light may blink the last error code whilst the heater is running Let the heater run for a good few minutes and then allow it to shut down as normal by turning the control knob to off position Allow it to fully cool down and shutdown Power cycle the heater and then attempt a fresh restart. The green light should be steady with no blink codes and it should now be unlocked. The symptoms of a lockout for me was upon turning on the heater the fan didn't blow and the unit did not start. The green LED was steady indicating no fault codes and no matter what I did it would not go into start-up procedure. This seems typical of a lock-out. All I did was have a low fuel tank and this locked it out.
    1 point
  10. At last weekends LR show we treated ourselves to a Wolf ambulance from Withams. I'm planning on having it delivered asap but can anybody help me with the process from there? I understand I need to: 1. Get it insured. Footman James have said no, Lancaster are going to call back tomorrow and Adrian Flux have quoted (sensible). Any others to try? 2. Book an MOT and drive it there 3. Hopefully bring it home MOT'd 4. DVLA paperwork...... Any ideas? What do I need to fill in? Can I register it as a camper (my plan is to convert) Is it viable to convert to 12v? If so i'll have a load of 24v parts for sale!
    1 point
  11. Like it says in the title really. Got an ex MoD 90 wiring has been "repaired" in the past ?. Whoever the muppet who fancied himself as an auto electrician was, he must have owned shares in red insulating tape. I have indicators, brake lights, front and rear sidelights, headlights on dip, 1 headlight on full (could just be bulb, sealed units). I have lethargic wipers which have normal speed and high speed. The high is in the right place, all other positions are slow. Occassionally they park but 90% of time stopping them is a pull the fuse job. Hazard lights? Eh, no. I also have a full loom of another 90. From look of the spaghetti under the bonnet and behind switches, I think this might be the best option. Is it possible to alter it to suit the military version or do I just go normal 90. Who needs convoy lights anyway. Help or insight appreciated ladies and gentlemen. Rab
    1 point
  12. Hello, I'm new to this forum and was hoping to get some help. I recently bought a old Land Rover Discovery 200tdi and I am fixing it. I'm running into the following problem though. Stationary the car smokes a bit but when i hit the gas to 3000RPM it smokes a lot. see link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lA8d75H1VfQ My problem right now is that I don't know where to start. What do you think that the problem is and where should I start? I've done the following, cleaned air inlet, new air filter to turbo hose, new exhaust manifold, new engine oil. Kind regards, Tim
    1 point
  13. They're called 'Lokut Nuts' .
    1 point
  14. Chris, PM me your email address, and I'll send you pdf files for the early D2 Wiring Diagrams, and Electrical Library. Paul.
    1 point
  15. advisory to do the rear bearings (can definitely feel them at 40-50mph as well!) id like to use timkin as I think they're the best made but having trouble finding the appropriate ones and what seals I would need as well, I need them for a '91 110 200tdi (Salisbury rear axle)
    1 point
  16. The possibility that the end is some kind of insert into the pipe was my first thought as well, because it would otherwise be a very odd pipe. As I say when I removed the pipe from my steering box it just came out (as in the 2nd pic) leaving something (the insert?) behind in the box itself. And the LR parts catalogue shows 2 O rings at the end of the pipe, so it looks like LR meant the 'insert' to come out with the pipe, otherwise its mighty difficult to get the O rings on the pipe. Since posting this I've not been back on it to check the pipe fitment - beyond popping it in a vice last week which seemed to straighten it out easily. Although before that I had tried the drill bit as a mandrel, but it seemed like it didn't want to move with that method. Perhaps as you say I should really pop it over to my local hydraulics place before re-fitting. And if I find out a definitive answer I'll update this post later, cheers
    1 point
  17. final post, slacked the handbrade fully off and its stopped now, gonna investigate the shoes at some point, cheers guys!
    1 point
  18. OK so the new fuel tank (ESR2242) has arrived, gave it a rub down and a good coat of Bonda Primer, a coat or 2 of Hammerite to follow...... The only thing that is bugging me is the gap between the tank and the stone guard!.... There is no way to get a coat of paint in there and this area is going to be the main cause of RUST due to being untreated! So what if I fill the gap with expanding foam like builders use, then trim any excess and paint?... Would this idea work or have I missed a major flaw in my theory???
    1 point
  19. Help, help, 54 plate td4 auto, have renewed wishbone, bushes, drop links, shock and Spring and have still got this low speed knocking, each time I've changed something the noise has got better but still not gone completely ,anyone had same experience and knows solution,regards Mark
    1 point
  20. Glad to hear it worked out for you. Luxury.
    1 point
  21. Nice one Ron, hopefully we'll see you tackling something else soon. Remember the forum is here to help even if it goes pear shaped half way through ? Mo
    1 point
  22. Yep, not a good idea DOH ! good to know the info helped cure the non working washer jet
    1 point
  23. The front and rear doors were looking tacky, metal frames rusting and slack hinges. Repaired bottom rails with YRM repair sections for S111. Got a pair of DA1070 heavy duty hinges which are marginally larger than the original and foul the door to window trim on the old military defender. Others have packed the hinge to clear the trim but I just ground off the offending small section of the trim. Hinges came in a blue box!! but to be fair to Britpart they are of good quality and no slop in the hinge pin, well pleased. After adjusting the striker plates the three doors close with a clunk rather than the slam bang before the repairs. If I close my eyes I’d think I was closing the door on a Roller !!
    1 point
  24. I have an answer to this - the new pipe end should be straight, not bent, so its set to work with some heat and see if I can straighten it without breaking it
    1 point
  25. http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm A helpful list of fuel injector part numbers, operating pressures, flow rates etc.
    1 point
  26. Thanks again, its all checking out in my mind now.
    1 point
  27. It has been a while since I last owned an ex mil vehicle and wondered where the vehicle history records are now kept? I used to get them from the museum of military transport in Beverley but I understand that has long since closed down. I tried EMLRA in the past and never, ever, had a response on anything I asked about, even when attempting to join.
    1 point
  28. Is it possible to use the clansman FFR antena mount used ont he LWTs origininaly etc with a conventional CB ? so it looks original ihs but use a Cb with it ?
    1 point
  29. Just under 3 years ago I bought two 101 disk brakes kits from Zeus. There was one set for myself and one for a friend. He fitted his to the front of his 101 in May 2013 and I have yet to fit mine. Today he advised his Zeus brake discs are cracked. He noticed a big crack in the brake rotor. It turns out both discs are cracked and the cracks have spread from almost every bolt hole used to hold the disc onto the hub. He cannot see anything that will stop these cracks spreading and this will lead to sudden a catastrophic failure of the front brakes. As these disks are unique with none other available except from Zeus, he treated the brakes well and they have not been cooked. The discs have been good until now with no wear showing on the disc itself and he was extremely happy with the Zeus conversion. The biggest crack has traveled 1/3 of the way though the disc radius. This is a pic of one of the smaller cracks This is a pic of the new unfitted disk - the cracks emanate from the bolt holes. Has anyone else heard of these brake disks developing cracks or failing. Cheers Garry
    1 point
  30. exmod 1991 Salisbury rear drum brakes converted to discs everything when fine but o/s rear half shaft seemed to be wrong one inserted hell of a game to get it out had to grind flange off which had been welded on remove drums then knocked it out back through the stub axle it had a raised area which I presume for oil seal but the shaft it self seemed to thick anyway thicker than the other half shaft on n/s so now I need a half shaft part number read else where that thee original drum brake shaft would be ok, dd
    1 point
  31. Hi guys I am new to this forum and was hoping somebody can help me. My 2.25 diesel is not Goni g into glow mode anymore when I turn key 3/4 turn. No click in module. So my questions - is there a fuse for that function I can't find it - what could be the issue Any help would be appreciated so I know where to start to look..
    1 point
  32. hi can anyone help me with a part number for the oil temp sender that fits into the sump on a V8?....................................many thanks
    1 point
  33. i'm 3800 so no body would cover me although to be honest they never asked me. AA won;t cover vehicles at 3800 nor ones with "electricals" in the back. So no i'm not with them for breakdown but i will ask next time.
    1 point
  34. hi, I have ex mod 110 td 1991 rolling chassis project which was a van td, at the stage now where I want to fit exhaust system on it, I know I will have to alter the down pipe to fit discovery 200tdi engine I've put in it as I did with my 90, I want to make it into a station wagon but which is the correct exhaust system and part numbers would be a good help thks dd
    1 point
  35. Yes the ambulances are definitely better with a bit of weight in the back to bring the CoG down. With all the fittings stripped out and bare in the back mine was markedly different, less lean, more slide
    1 point
  36. If you have a standing order to LR4x4.com Please read the info in this link http://forums.lr4x4....772#entry727634 & act on it to reset your standind order payments.
    1 point
  37. New guidance for O/T threads and posts, giving a clear picture of what is acceptable. Please read this link - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73660 Thanks
    1 point


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