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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/30/2016 in all areas

  1. Hi Can I have a part number for the locking barrels that fit the wolf lift up handle locks please? Are these the same as series and early 110/90? Thanks Sam
    2 points
  2. Hi folks, away from home with no access to my Microcat. Can anyone help me out with LR part numbers for HD springs for a 2001 Td5 90? Have searched for ages. Plenty of info on 110s and US spec Defenders, but can't get definitive info on a 90. Thanks. Now beginning to carry too much weight for standard springs: roll cage, winch bumper, winch, sliders, spare wheel carrier plus whatever load I want.
    2 points
  3. At last weekends LR show we treated ourselves to a Wolf ambulance from Withams. I'm planning on having it delivered asap but can anybody help me with the process from there? I understand I need to: 1. Get it insured. Footman James have said no, Lancaster are going to call back tomorrow and Adrian Flux have quoted (sensible). Any others to try? 2. Book an MOT and drive it there 3. Hopefully bring it home MOT'd 4. DVLA paperwork...... Any ideas? What do I need to fill in? Can I register it as a camper (my plan is to convert) Is it viable to convert to 12v? If so i'll have a load of 24v parts for sale!
    1 point
  4. Like it says in the title really. Got an ex MoD 90 wiring has been "repaired" in the past ?. Whoever the muppet who fancied himself as an auto electrician was, he must have owned shares in red insulating tape. I have indicators, brake lights, front and rear sidelights, headlights on dip, 1 headlight on full (could just be bulb, sealed units). I have lethargic wipers which have normal speed and high speed. The high is in the right place, all other positions are slow. Occassionally they park but 90% of time stopping them is a pull the fuse job. Hazard lights? Eh, no. I also have a full loom of another 90. From look of the spaghetti under the bonnet and behind switches, I think this might be the best option. Is it possible to alter it to suit the military version or do I just go normal 90. Who needs convoy lights anyway. Help or insight appreciated ladies and gentlemen. Rab
    1 point
  5. We have a Defender here that we have converted to 3,9 V9 automatic from a discovery. It runs great but heats up very quickly. When we leave it idling without driving it, temp goes up to the last white line on the dial, so that's OK. When we drive it it's around that line as well. But if we have driven it and let it idle after that it start going up and goes just over the red mark. The engine has been reconditioned with all new bearings, piston rings, seals, waterpump, camshaft etc. It has a new 19J TD radiator, but we have now discovered that the radiator has a little bend on the underside, could that cause troubles with the water flow? I've now taken the visco fan off and replaced that with two 150 watt electric fans, that helps a few degrees I think, but not enough. I've just done a test for combustion gasses in the coolant and luckily there are not. I've taken the heart out of the thermostat to see if that makes a difference, it doesn't. We have a puma bulkhead in this car, with puma heater and aircon. The routing of the hoses was a little difficult and I was affraid there may be some air left in the system but the heater heats up within a minute of starting the cold engine, even without the thermostat. That seems strange to me as well.. Anyone ideas?
    1 point
  6. I've got the seatbox out at the moment to weld up some bits on the sills. There's like a foam seal between the seatbox and the panels it attaches to. What sealing strip stuff do you/would you use when putting it back?
    1 point
  7. Which rev counter have you fitted, ? if it's a VDO unit, there is 3 dip switches on the back, numbered 1,2,3. set 1 & 3 up & 2 down, that should get you very close for your engine, them adjust with the screw to fine tune,
    1 point
  8. If you pick up a laser tach, you can set it exact. They are pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tachometer-TOOGOO-Professional-Digital-Contact/dp/B01EA3Y2O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472520219&sr=8-1&keywords=laser+tachometer
    1 point
  9. Feasibly, if the area can be thoroughly cleaned and roughed a little with a burr then devcon Aluminium (F) putty should be strong enough for the application. May even be preferable to welding. (use the genuine stuff) Good enough for use in aluminium heads, so I can't see it as being much of a problem in a small casting void in a bellhousing flange. Especially as the bolt is required to go all the way through it anyway...
    1 point
  10. Hi, Google is no use here, so what are your views.What are the best uk routes to drive, off and on road in a 4x4? Not the most technical, the most fun/scenic........?
    1 point
  11. Where abouts are you located? What brand is your pattern waterpump?
    1 point
  12. Ok, so got some good advice from you re my electrical woes so will take on next problem now. Being ex military its original engine was N/A. A previous owner has swapped in a 300tdi presumably from a defender as no viscous fan or cowling (looks wrong but thats what it has). Anyway, have chance of 300tdi plus R308 box from a defender at decent money so a swap is on the cards. Also available is a salisbury rear axle from a 110. Now questions. Should I go ahead with the engine & box swap? Should I leave my current engine and Lt77 in and go for full recon of other engine and box first? And finally, I'm not an off roader as such but frequently drive off road through mud etc so would prefer to have rear discs (self adjusting, power wash clean, less hassle) could do without the expense but axle appears well priced. Is it a simple swap? Is there another way to change to rear discs that's more cost effective? Thanks in advance people. ☺
    1 point
  13. just bought a lovely 2002 freelander 1 every thing works except the radio. It does not work so I ordered the aerial then the base and then the coax cable how ever the base and the coax do not fit, they are genuine land rover parts and should have fit my vehicle. How ever they do not my radio does not work and I am out over 40 quid and the company I got the parts from will not take them back because I ordered by part number I'm really angry as I chose to use genuine parts to support land rover silly me. can any one on this forum advise me and or give me a contact number as I believe land rover have made alterations to the parts making them bigger thanks in anticipation Lester.
    1 point
  14. Hi folks, looking for some help here. I'm not a novice when it comes to LRs - I've done a few Series restos, including one nut and bolt build. I've had a few 300TDI Discos (all seemed great but rust became a problem later) and have had one ex-MoD vehicle (a lightweight - which despite being abused by its first private keeper was absolutely rust-free). Usually my land rover projects stay in the barn (there's a few Series projects in there now) and day-to-day I drive new, leased saloons. However my current lease is coming to an end and I really want to replace it with a non-project Defender - one with reliability that suits the miles I do on and off-road. As LR can't supply one new, I have been looking at the second hand market. The biggest thing for me is rust - any rust is too much - so I've been looking at the ex-MOD stocks. The biggest appeal is the choice - I could go and look at a dozen in a day. I can live with bad paint and basic interiors but what I want is one with no rust and with a good service history. Is it realistic to expect a demobbed Wolf to be an immediately-reliable daily driver (I'd need to pick it up then use it the next day) and equally is it realistic to expect to find one at Withams and the like with no rust - one that I can waxoyl regularly maintain and never need worry about having to replace the chassis/bulkhead? I only focus on the Wolf as it already has the TDI/R380 combo I like - I could repower a 2.5NAD Ninety to TDI spec but time is against me. The alternative is trawling the private ads for dry-stored TDi/TD5s or even (heaven forbid)… leasing a new Hilux. Also any tips on recommended civilian improvements for the XD would be very welcome.
    1 point
  15. Evening guys, haven't been in the Landy world for a bit, but I am now back with a new addition to the family. New challenge for me after being used to the 3.9 V8, now I need to familiarise myself with the 2.5 N/A diesel. So far so good (it's only been two days!! ) She was Army fire service, someone decided to off-road her for a wee while, but thankfully I got my hands on her before it went on too long. I'm going to keep her as original as possible and over the years and bring her back up to a well,deserved standard. ( it'll take time but can't wait!) Already knew about the cold start procedure and works very well. Very little smoke on start up and after a gear change for the first 5 mins there's a little bit of smoke. Clears after that. High low range seem to be fine (steep driveway) although I don't know how to get into diff lock. I was advised the bulb may need replaced for it too. All dash lights work, already taken the Sh*t sports steering wheel off and put the original back on. Fan works but I think I could blow faster ha! All lights work and are military spec. ( I really like them) every single thing seems to work. It's been painted a desert sand but my intention is to go NATO green. I prefer this to the fire service red. So just thought I'd introduce the new addition the the best landy forum around.
    1 point
  16. Hi, What the normal bill for a new clutch? mine is gone, no power on hills and no power in 4th/5th. Engineers says clutch is killing the the throttle so it needs replacing. what the normal cost, googled it but forums are all 2011 costs...
    1 point
  17. Hi, some of you might know i got myself a pulse ambulance. Can anyone tell me if the Diffs in the front and rear axles are standard rover 24 spline. I know they are 24 spline but would they just be called "rover" ? Would i just be able to bolt in a TrueTrack destined for a "Rover 24" TA Neill
    1 point
  18. did you buy the locking diff in the end?
    1 point
  19. To be honest i wouldn't take the head off unless it needed a head gasket doing etc.
    1 point
  20. It has been a while since I last owned an ex mil vehicle and wondered where the vehicle history records are now kept? I used to get them from the museum of military transport in Beverley but I understand that has long since closed down. I tried EMLRA in the past and never, ever, had a response on anything I asked about, even when attempting to join.
    1 point
  21. Recently released by the government. Get your copies now! https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/502705/FOI2016-00702_2320-D-128-711_Final.pdf I met a chap from Hobsons once who said they had had a contract to convert 50 ROW spec Defenders to 1998 spec (looms, connectors, fuel lines, etc), just so that they could homogenise the part numbers (which sounded a bit barmy). Taking a look at that manual with all its NATO stock numbers, etc. it makes me understand completely!
    1 point
  22. Hi, Wondering if anyone has had any experience of fitting Jackable Rock/Tree (protector) Sliders onto their 110 FFR. The side lockers are overhanding the area at the moment and I have read on some US sites where they have cut the bottom of the locker doors a bit to get them to fit but wondered if anyone has done this is in the UK or can recommend a supplier? Thanks Taffia
    1 point
  23. OK guys, if you have a light stone coloured vehicle what colour is it declared as on your V5? Yellow or beige?
    1 point
  24. First release! http://www.mod-sales.com/direct/vehicle/,25,/77257/Land_Rover.htm
    1 point
  25. Malcolm Whitbread used a LHD defender style steering box so the input pointed forwards and then a 90 degree bevel box at bottom of column. The 101 relay is larger than a series unit so should survive having power steering through it and adds an element of further damping so should help improve steering box life when offroading. Cutting and vee-ing the chassis isn't a terribly messy way of doing it, rebuilding the top of the rail over the v would add strength back in and might make it a tad neater.
    1 point


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