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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/01/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I googled for hours to try and fix this and finally I found something useful. To reset a locked out Eberspacher D5LC (may work on other models) all you need to do I short out two wires. You do not need to buy a 701 or 801 controller or take it to a dealer. 25 1688 50 00 / 12V and 25 1689 50 00 / 24V in versions R0,R1,R2,R3,R4 are confirmed to work. Although you need to short the wires for longer time on the R3 and R4 models of ECU. Up to 5 seconds for the R3,R4 and up to 2 seconds for the R0,R1,R2. To do this try to start the unit as normal. This will not work as its locked out however you will get an illuminated Green LED in the middle of the dial. With the Green LED illuminated short out the two pins as per the diagram below. Do not remove the wires just short them out where they are. The heater should immediately start up if the duration of short is long enough. Mine took 3 seconds maybe as its an R4 Remove the short as soon as the heater starts up The green light may blink the last error code whilst the heater is running Let the heater run for a good few minutes and then allow it to shut down as normal by turning the control knob to off position Allow it to fully cool down and shutdown Power cycle the heater and then attempt a fresh restart. The green light should be steady with no blink codes and it should now be unlocked. The symptoms of a lockout for me was upon turning on the heater the fan didn't blow and the unit did not start. The green LED was steady indicating no fault codes and no matter what I did it would not go into start-up procedure. This seems typical of a lock-out. All I did was have a low fuel tank and this locked it out.
  2. 2 points
    At last weekends LR show we treated ourselves to a Wolf ambulance from Withams. I'm planning on having it delivered asap but can anybody help me with the process from there? I understand I need to: 1. Get it insured. Footman James have said no, Lancaster are going to call back tomorrow and Adrian Flux have quoted (sensible). Any others to try? 2. Book an MOT and drive it there 3. Hopefully bring it home MOT'd 4. DVLA paperwork...... Any ideas? What do I need to fill in? Can I register it as a camper (my plan is to convert) Is it viable to convert to 12v? If so i'll have a load of 24v parts for sale!
  3. 2 points
    A EGT sensor in the egr valve plate will read alot lower than what is actually at the turbine so dont go much over 700 degrees with the temp sensor in that place
  4. 2 points
    Just under 3 years ago I bought two 101 disk brakes kits from Zeus. There was one set for myself and one for a friend. He fitted his to the front of his 101 in May 2013 and I have yet to fit mine. Today he advised his Zeus brake discs are cracked. He noticed a big crack in the brake rotor. It turns out both discs are cracked and the cracks have spread from almost every bolt hole used to hold the disc onto the hub. He cannot see anything that will stop these cracks spreading and this will lead to sudden a catastrophic failure of the front brakes. As these disks are unique with none other available except from Zeus, he treated the brakes well and they have not been cooked. The discs have been good until now with no wear showing on the disc itself and he was extremely happy with the Zeus conversion. The biggest crack has traveled 1/3 of the way though the disc radius. This is a pic of one of the smaller cracks This is a pic of the new unfitted disk - the cracks emanate from the bolt holes. Has anyone else heard of these brake disks developing cracks or failing. Cheers Garry
  5. 2 points
    Just wondering if there are any Farmer's Boys who are members here.
  6. 2 points
    Trying to find out what these are - I think from a Towed Rapier - can anyone tell me if this is similar to any other trailer hubs?
  7. 2 points
    Neill, can you tell me what the unladen weight of yours is (i seem to remember yours might be a bit heavier than mine)? I don't need it for registration, i'm just interested to know what sort of payload i'm going to have. I'll take it to a weighbridge once its registered and the nasty weather is over with! Cheers, Ian
  8. 2 points
  9. 1 point
    Can't resist going first. So you Evoque owners how are they? I thought about one but got a bigger mpv in the end. Are they a Proper baby range rover or freelander in a suit and tie ? I need a second car change at some point and prices are starting to drop.
  10. 1 point
    Hi everyone, i'm new here today. My landy is a 1961 swb series 2A with a sherpa 2.5 15J engine which i've had for 27 years. Started with a 2 1/4 diesel then a rover v8 now with said Sherpa. Yesterday my timing belt snapped AGAIN,.. 3rd time !!!. and getting bored with dealing with it every 12-18 months or so. It's only done 8000 since it snapped last time. Anyway..about 18 months ago i bought a 19J turbo engine without the turbo for £25. This was following an idea by an elderly land rover enthusiast who said..( if you use the front off the 19J and get shut of the Sherpa front timing arrangement you should never have the same problems and also the timing case will be waterproof ). So..can anyone tell me if they have done this conversion and if so,, could you PLEASE tell me which part numbers i need to complete the job. Seals , Gaskets etc etc. The whole idea scares me to death as i have never done this before. I know i might have to change/move, the engine mounting (pain) but if so then...... The other thing is this...someone said the fuel pumps were different in that the Sherpa was calibrated differently to the TD fuel pump. But how???. Although i do have both fuel pumps and injectors. A 200TDI is a no no, as 2 of my mates have destroyed their gearboxes. They were never designed to handle the torque and appart from which ...no £ in the back pocket. If anyone can help me, i would be very greatful. Cheers Dave.
  11. 1 point
    Each year my guys put on a little course at a festival in the Northwest and run people over a specially designed course. Just enough to give them a thrill. Not enough to risk any real danger. It's a lot of fun but even more so when someone like this gets in your motor!
  12. 1 point
    Spacers OR larger offset wheels place the same strain on wheel bearings, so you may want to check the off road wheels you have to go on, and see if you even want to. A photo will let someone tell you if standard wheels or not, I suspect not, or why put spacers on in the first place? Wheel spacers are undoubtedly strong enough even made of aluminium, what do you think alloy wheels are made of? I share birdie's concern over them and wouldn't fit then unless I couldn't avoid, but they are in use on many, many modified cars out there will little issues. I am think the biggest issue is people not doing them up properly and nit using thread lock, and then not checking they are tight every time they have the wheel off. As with anything lack of maintenance and ignorance is what causes most problems.
  13. 1 point
    That bottom hose is too hot - the rad isn't cooling the water properly.
  14. 1 point
    Good evening ladies and gentlemen! Recently I replaced the front dampers, springs and turrets on my Discovery TD5. Before I did this I scoured the interweb for all the information and made notes. I thought rather then throwing the notes away I would post them on here - hopefully will be of use to somebody... Part Numbers Spring N/S TD5 & V8 --- REB101340 Spring O/S TD5 --- REB101341 Spring O/S V8 --- REB101330 Spring Seat N/S --- REG000030 Spring Seat O/S --- REG000020 Isolator (turret ring) --- RBC100111 Turret nuts (M8 flange head nyloc) Dampers (coil front suspension, air rear, non ACE) --- RNB103533 Dampers (coil front, coil rear, with ACE) --- RNB103683 Dampers (coil front suspension, air rear, with ACE --- RNB103694 Lower damper bolts (M10x30 flange head bolt) Turrets --- KVU101051 Silly money from LR and aftermarket not much cheaper. I went for heavy duty versions - thicker, stronger, will last longer and the open design is easier to clean the cr*p out. I got mine from here http://www.shirefabrications.com/ they don't actually advertise them (maybe because they supply the likes of Paddocks etc - they look identical) but give them a ring, great service & nice people and cheaper Bump stops --- RNV100060 Anti roll bar links --- RBM100223 Anti roll bar nuts (M12 flange head nyloc) --- RYH100590 Torques Damper lower bolts --- 45nm/33ft lb(from Land Rover workshop manual - I have seen 55nm/40ft lb quoted) Damper top bolt --- 125nm/92ft lb Isolator/turret nuts --- 23nm/17 ft lb Anti roll bar link nuts --- 100nm/74ft lb Easy enough to do, plenty of guides/info if you search. Unless you're using a ramp I suggest using coil spring compressors (can be done without). All info given in good faith however I cannot guarantee the accuracy. Enjoy!
  15. 1 point
    Garry, its completely gone since i put the 300 tdi in. It could be because the front prop is 3" longer or the double cardan i fitted at the same time (i know this hasn't stopped the rumble for others, but it has for me)
  16. 1 point
    A large exhaust won't stop a turbo spooling, only a small one...
  17. 1 point
    Ok, so got some good advice from you re my electrical woes so will take on next problem now. Being ex military its original engine was N/A. A previous owner has swapped in a 300tdi presumably from a defender as no viscous fan or cowling (looks wrong but thats what it has). Anyway, have chance of 300tdi plus R308 box from a defender at decent money so a swap is on the cards. Also available is a salisbury rear axle from a 110. Now questions. Should I go ahead with the engine & box swap? Should I leave my current engine and Lt77 in and go for full recon of other engine and box first? And finally, I'm not an off roader as such but frequently drive off road through mud etc so would prefer to have rear discs (self adjusting, power wash clean, less hassle) could do without the expense but axle appears well priced. Is it a simple swap? Is there another way to change to rear discs that's more cost effective? Thanks in advance people. ☺
  18. 1 point
    For the last few months on and off i have been having cooling issues with my TDI disco, this culminated in me doing the head gasket 3 weeks ago. 2 yo head checked and passed , elring composite gasket and new bolt set. Ran well with the occasional temp rise just after slowing down from 80/100 kph, replaced viscous fan clutch as it hadnt been replaced in my near 10 year ownership, ran cooler on the highway at 100kph but still the occasional temp rise. Radiator removed and cleaned/rodded (professionally) but bloody thing is still overheating which it was doing before the gasket change, expansion cap replaced and waterpump is 3yo and all hoses 2yo. When the temp goes up it mostly comes back down quickly and sometimes loses some coolant, can also hear gurgling thru the heater core but there are no leaks and aircon drains are clear.
  19. 1 point
    Has anyone put power steering into their FC 101 that does not involve cutting into the front of the chassis. I know most Disco 1 and 2, P38 and 110 boxes can be used but involve cutting into the chassis. I am not prepared to cut into the chassis - drill holes, weld yes but not cut bits out of it. I have checked a Jeep Wrangler box and it would fit where the original box is without too much modification BUT there is a major issue in that the output shaft turns the wrong way . So if anyone has power steering on their 101 does not involve cutting the chassis please post up how it was done. Thanks Garry
  20. 1 point
    Evening guys, haven't been in the Landy world for a bit, but I am now back with a new addition to the family. New challenge for me after being used to the 3.9 V8, now I need to familiarise myself with the 2.5 N/A diesel. So far so good (it's only been two days!! ) She was Army fire service, someone decided to off-road her for a wee while, but thankfully I got my hands on her before it went on too long. I'm going to keep her as original as possible and over the years and bring her back up to a well,deserved standard. ( it'll take time but can't wait!) Already knew about the cold start procedure and works very well. Very little smoke on start up and after a gear change for the first 5 mins there's a little bit of smoke. Clears after that. High low range seem to be fine (steep driveway) although I don't know how to get into diff lock. I was advised the bulb may need replaced for it too. All dash lights work, already taken the Sh*t sports steering wheel off and put the original back on. Fan works but I think I could blow faster ha! All lights work and are military spec. ( I really like them) every single thing seems to work. It's been painted a desert sand but my intention is to go NATO green. I prefer this to the fire service red. So just thought I'd introduce the new addition the the best landy forum around.
  21. 1 point
    Thought i should provide an update, had my spare head hardness tested then skimmed then fitted a new elring composite gasket and new head bolts. Combined with the new viscous fan clutch and reco'd radiator its running very cool and as smooth as ever (for a tdi ), should be good for another 360K klms.
  22. 1 point
    did you buy the locking diff in the end?
  23. 1 point
    It has been a while since I last owned an ex mil vehicle and wondered where the vehicle history records are now kept? I used to get them from the museum of military transport in Beverley but I understand that has long since closed down. I tried EMLRA in the past and never, ever, had a response on anything I asked about, even when attempting to join.
  24. 1 point
    Hi, thinking of getting me a 130 Ambulance. lots of questions... is it a class 4 MOT? Whats its GVW? Does the 24v cause issues. Can i get rid of it? Can I insure it at a normal place? anything thats a RPITA to carry on using one? I think getting it registered is pretty easy once I got the MOT. Similar to when we brought Matilda home after the trip. So other than the insurance and MOT are there any "living with one" issues. e.g. are the spares pretty much the same? I presume normal 130 springs and shocks and general consumables like hub bearings and stuff. Thanks Neill ps feeling like a newbee again..........
  25. 1 point
    Hi guys I am new to this forum and was hoping somebody can help me. My 2.25 diesel is not Goni g into glow mode anymore when I turn key 3/4 turn. No click in module. So my questions - is there a fuse for that function I can't find it - what could be the issue Any help would be appreciated so I know where to start to look..
  26. 1 point
    What do you think about this late Series 3 109? Outwardly ex military but with plenty of civvy touches [CL version?] http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272113985357?ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  27. 1 point
    Is this the one that's also appearing on Facebook for £3000? Looks very very similar
  28. 1 point
    The x eng one is for extreme articulation so its not really the correct thing here but it would worked locked in the way you want. I'd just get a stiffer normal one. Extreme4x4 make a 28mm one.

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