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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/01/2016 in all areas

  1. I googled for hours to try and fix this and finally I found something useful. To reset a locked out Eberspacher D5LC (may work on other models) all you need to do I short out two wires. You do not need to buy a 701 or 801 controller or take it to a dealer. 25 1688 50 00 / 12V and 25 1689 50 00 / 24V in versions R0,R1,R2,R3,R4 are confirmed to work. Although you need to short the wires for longer time on the R3 and R4 models of ECU. Up to 5 seconds for the R3,R4 and up to 2 seconds for the R0,R1,R2. To do this try to start the unit as normal. This will not work as its locked out however you
    2 points
  2. At last weekends LR show we treated ourselves to a Wolf ambulance from Withams. I'm planning on having it delivered asap but can anybody help me with the process from there? I understand I need to: 1. Get it insured. Footman James have said no, Lancaster are going to call back tomorrow and Adrian Flux have quoted (sensible). Any others to try? 2. Book an MOT and drive it there 3. Hopefully bring it home MOT'd 4. DVLA paperwork...... Any ideas? What do I need to fill in? Can I register it as a camper (my plan is to convert) Is it viable to convert to 12v? If so i'll have a load of 24v pa
    2 points
  3. A EGT sensor in the egr valve plate will read alot lower than what is actually at the turbine so dont go much over 700 degrees with the temp sensor in that place
    2 points
  4. Just under 3 years ago I bought two 101 disk brakes kits from Zeus. There was one set for myself and one for a friend. He fitted his to the front of his 101 in May 2013 and I have yet to fit mine. Today he advised his Zeus brake discs are cracked. He noticed a big crack in the brake rotor. It turns out both discs are cracked and the cracks have spread from almost every bolt hole used to hold the disc onto the hub. He cannot see anything that will stop these cracks spreading and this will lead to sudden a catastrophic failure of the front brakes. As these disks are unique with none other a
    2 points
  5. Just wondering if there are any Farmer's Boys who are members here.
    2 points
  6. Trying to find out what these are - I think from a Towed Rapier - can anyone tell me if this is similar to any other trailer hubs?
    2 points
  7. Neill, can you tell me what the unladen weight of yours is (i seem to remember yours might be a bit heavier than mine)? I don't need it for registration, i'm just interested to know what sort of payload i'm going to have. I'll take it to a weighbridge once its registered and the nasty weather is over with! Cheers, Ian
    2 points
  8. Can't resist going first. So you Evoque owners how are they? I thought about one but got a bigger mpv in the end. Are they a Proper baby range rover or freelander in a suit and tie ? I need a second car change at some point and prices are starting to drop.
    1 point
  9. Hi everyone, i'm new here today. My landy is a 1961 swb series 2A with a sherpa 2.5 15J engine which i've had for 27 years. Started with a 2 1/4 diesel then a rover v8 now with said Sherpa. Yesterday my timing belt snapped AGAIN,.. 3rd time !!!. and getting bored with dealing with it every 12-18 months or so. It's only done 8000 since it snapped last time. Anyway..about 18 months ago i bought a 19J turbo engine without the turbo for £25. This was following an idea by an elderly land rover enthusiast who said..( if you use the front off the 19J and get shut of the Sherpa front timing arran
    1 point
  10. Each year my guys put on a little course at a festival in the Northwest and run people over a specially designed course. Just enough to give them a thrill. Not enough to risk any real danger. It's a lot of fun but even more so when someone like this gets in your motor!
    1 point
  11. Spacers OR larger offset wheels place the same strain on wheel bearings, so you may want to check the off road wheels you have to go on, and see if you even want to. A photo will let someone tell you if standard wheels or not, I suspect not, or why put spacers on in the first place? Wheel spacers are undoubtedly strong enough even made of aluminium, what do you think alloy wheels are made of? I share birdie's concern over them and wouldn't fit then unless I couldn't avoid, but they are in use on many, many modified cars out there will little issues. I am think the biggest issue is people no
    1 point
  12. That bottom hose is too hot - the rad isn't cooling the water properly.
    1 point
  13. Good evening ladies and gentlemen! Recently I replaced the front dampers, springs and turrets on my Discovery TD5. Before I did this I scoured the interweb for all the information and made notes. I thought rather then throwing the notes away I would post them on here - hopefully will be of use to somebody... Part Numbers Spring N/S TD5 & V8 --- REB101340 Spring O/S TD5 --- REB101341 Spring O/S V8 --- REB101330 Spring Seat N/S --- REG000030 Spring Seat O/S --- REG000020 Isolator (turret ring) --- RBC100111 Turret nuts (M8 flange head nyloc) Dampers (coil front suspension, air rear
    1 point
  14. Garry, its completely gone since i put the 300 tdi in. It could be because the front prop is 3" longer or the double cardan i fitted at the same time (i know this hasn't stopped the rumble for others, but it has for me)
    1 point
  15. A large exhaust won't stop a turbo spooling, only a small one...
    1 point
  16. Ok, so got some good advice from you re my electrical woes so will take on next problem now. Being ex military its original engine was N/A. A previous owner has swapped in a 300tdi presumably from a defender as no viscous fan or cowling (looks wrong but thats what it has). Anyway, have chance of 300tdi plus R308 box from a defender at decent money so a swap is on the cards. Also available is a salisbury rear axle from a 110. Now questions. Should I go ahead with the engine & box swap? Should I leave my current engine and Lt77 in and go for full recon of other engine and box first? And
    1 point
  17. For the last few months on and off i have been having cooling issues with my TDI disco, this culminated in me doing the head gasket 3 weeks ago. 2 yo head checked and passed , elring composite gasket and new bolt set. Ran well with the occasional temp rise just after slowing down from 80/100 kph, replaced viscous fan clutch as it hadnt been replaced in my near 10 year ownership, ran cooler on the highway at 100kph but still the occasional temp rise. Radiator removed and cleaned/rodded (professionally) but bloody thing is still overheating which it was doing before the gasket change, expans
    1 point
  18. Has anyone put power steering into their FC 101 that does not involve cutting into the front of the chassis. I know most Disco 1 and 2, P38 and 110 boxes can be used but involve cutting into the chassis. I am not prepared to cut into the chassis - drill holes, weld yes but not cut bits out of it. I have checked a Jeep Wrangler box and it would fit where the original box is without too much modification BUT there is a major issue in that the output shaft turns the wrong way . So if anyone has power steering on their 101 does not involve cutting the chassis please post up how it was done.
    1 point
  19. Evening guys, haven't been in the Landy world for a bit, but I am now back with a new addition to the family. New challenge for me after being used to the 3.9 V8, now I need to familiarise myself with the 2.5 N/A diesel. So far so good (it's only been two days!! ) She was Army fire service, someone decided to off-road her for a wee while, but thankfully I got my hands on her before it went on too long. I'm going to keep her as original as possible and over the years and bring her back up to a well,deserved standard. ( it'll take time but can't wait!) Already knew about the cold start proce
    1 point
  20. Thought i should provide an update, had my spare head hardness tested then skimmed then fitted a new elring composite gasket and new head bolts. Combined with the new viscous fan clutch and reco'd radiator its running very cool and as smooth as ever (for a tdi ), should be good for another 360K klms.
    1 point
  21. did you buy the locking diff in the end?
    1 point
  22. It has been a while since I last owned an ex mil vehicle and wondered where the vehicle history records are now kept? I used to get them from the museum of military transport in Beverley but I understand that has long since closed down. I tried EMLRA in the past and never, ever, had a response on anything I asked about, even when attempting to join.
    1 point
  23. Hi, thinking of getting me a 130 Ambulance. lots of questions... is it a class 4 MOT? Whats its GVW? Does the 24v cause issues. Can i get rid of it? Can I insure it at a normal place? anything thats a RPITA to carry on using one? I think getting it registered is pretty easy once I got the MOT. Similar to when we brought Matilda home after the trip. So other than the insurance and MOT are there any "living with one" issues. e.g. are the spares pretty much the same? I presume normal 130 springs and shocks and general consumables like hub bearings and stuff. Thanks Neill ps feeling like
    1 point
  24. Hi guys I am new to this forum and was hoping somebody can help me. My 2.25 diesel is not Goni g into glow mode anymore when I turn key 3/4 turn. No click in module. So my questions - is there a fuse for that function I can't find it - what could be the issue Any help would be appreciated so I know where to start to look..
    1 point
  25. What do you think about this late Series 3 109? Outwardly ex military but with plenty of civvy touches [CL version?] http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272113985357?ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
    1 point
  26. Is this the one that's also appearing on Facebook for £3000? Looks very very similar
    1 point
  27. The x eng one is for extreme articulation so its not really the correct thing here but it would worked locked in the way you want. I'd just get a stiffer normal one. Extreme4x4 make a 28mm one.
    1 point


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