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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 1 point
    Interesting times. My rebuild is just finished! Jut sorting the receipts of this saga and I just filed the Marsland Receipt - 110 Galvanised chassis (TDI but with TD5 rear x-member) in Jan 2016 was 1525 ex VAT. I am very glad I got mine then! And Yes I will get something up on the rebuild pages - only just got her on the road 3 days ago! Interestingly the chap who did the main rebuild has another customer and he's struggling to get a Marsland - I suspect the reason for this is that Marsland bought direct from GKN the OEM chassis. However I suspect most of you know that GKN are in trouble (big trouble I fear) so I suspect we are witnessing the last of the line of GKN making LR chassis. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-43584083
  3. 1 point
    The chap who taught me to shoot, rest his soul, would always go to the local vet to get stitched up rather than the doctor. Less chance of catching something and they usually did a better job.
  4. 1 point
    The fire issue was sufficiently real for all Tesla cars to be banned from underground car parks in Oslo, I'm not sure if it was the entirety of Norway or just some local fad and this was in 2013,. Not sure if it still the case but I know their fire fighters were told not to attempt to stop them burning but to concentrate on limiting collateral damage.
  5. 1 point
    Might make you Barker-ing mad though!!
  6. 1 point
    For those who can't be bothered to click:
  7. 1 point
    No... http://www.vhra.co.uk/VHRA/News/Entries/2018/5/3_IVA_Legislation_Proposal_from_the_DfT_-_Conclusion.html
  8. 1 point
    Yes 4mm or 5mm diameter and 9.5mm(3/8")long , with a Standard head in aluminium and fit before paint -hope that helps you Wheely cheers Steve b
  9. 1 point
    No u didn’t, it’s a factory fitted item... you just fitted the switch to control the system.
  10. 1 point
    I used to work in the Agricultural/Plant industry, and took an interest in oils and filtration....................... The times customers would come in and given the choice between a Genuine Parts and a "will fit" diesel filter, would insist on the cheap one because a Genuine one was three times the price AND blocked up too quickly ................................ We also did a lot of warranty work as a result of filter failure. It is ALWAYS better to buy a GOOD filter for any application. Buy only Genuine manufacturer, or Mahle, Mann, or Purflux. and K&N air filters if you want one. Cr****and, W*x, F**m should be avoided. Faulty bypass valves, and poor filter mediums are the main problems. Tanuki was lucky. as there was an obvious symptom and fault. Poor filtration is normally insidious and gradual and in the long run will cost you a great deal
  11. 1 point
    No, he's saying that dire filters like Britpart's bock the flow and drop the pressure of a healthy engine by a potentially catastrophic amount. The quality of the filter paper is important, but the reduced length and heavily reduced pleat count in the Britpart filter probably reduce the paper area by 50%, hence the poor flow.
  12. 1 point
    They spec the parts though, and test them before accepting them. As TSD discovered doing an autopsy, even a genuine Bosch starter motor that fits a TDi does not have the same level of sealing as a genuine Land Rover starter motor made by Bosch. Likewise almost any part fitted by any manufacturer Vs the OEM replacement. As for blue boxes, I reckon their stuff is specced by sending a blurry camera-phone photo of the part to China and taking the lowest bid on something that looks like it might just fit if you squint and stand a long way away.
  13. 1 point
    Hi All, I can remember a few snippets here and there over the years for hints on re-riveting the rear of a D110. I've done a search and not found these old snippets (maybe they were from the "other place" So, - what diameter rivets? - what kind of rivets? (blind) - what material (Alu or Monnel?) - I think I can remember something about SS washers on the inside, is this a good idea? - do I need longer rivets for this? As a matter of fact - how much of a blind rivet should protrude past the rear surface? - does anyone use any anticorrosion or sealant around the rivets before popping? - and finally - the tool - compressed air pop rivet guns were all the rage as it gives better control and lessens the possibility of the gun scratching the paintwork - I think there was a post about placing a large piece of wood on the front of the gun to stop this - any hints? I am planning to put together a techarchive type post once I get all the hints together. thanks, Regards Matt


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