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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/22/2018 in all areas

  1. Thank you for this extremely useful post! One of the difficulties for new users of MS, is understanding what people write on forums, let alone remembering what all the acronyms stand for and then sometimes, tables are produced without a label on the axes, or sometimes without a title on the table. This can make it a bit of a trial for someone such as myself, who is trying to understand what goes where, etc. I must say, however, that this thread with the helpful and well-wriiten responses, has been one of the most useful threads I have read and I have saved the address in my MS installation notes. Thank you everyone! Cheers Charlie
    2 points
  2. I used a D2 PAS box (just to be different again! They're supposedly stronger than D1/RRC but the mount is different), a standard early Defender column and an early "thin" Defender wheel as it's close enough to the Series sort of look. I'm pretty sure the Series wheel WON'T fit on it or I would have just bolted it on. I may have the bits kicking around to check. The early Defender ones are I think the most commonly used wheel-end spline, will accept most Defender/D1/RRC wheels although I know there was a period when LR changed to a different spline and (possibly) then went back again. Probably 300TDi or TD5 era, there was a long and tediously detailed thread about it on here, probably now in the tech archive. The D2 box has a different input spline to everything else, I'm guessing the P38 one may well do too, which can lead to having to cobble your own steering shaft together. I think the arm is different too, and P38 rod ends are different so you're potentially into making new steering bars. Welding the shaft up shouldn't be a major terror as it's a solid lump that takes twisting force, plenty of meat to weld and easily sleeved for belt & braces. The only MOT rules last time I looked are that there should be no badly-done repairs, be they welded or otherwise. My old steering bars were cut & shut by the welding stig using solid inserts, welded (root & cap) round the join as well as drilled & puddle-welded then finished on the lathe so you never saw the join. Mind, they were Volvo so about 3x stronger than LR ones to start with. An alternative is lots of cars have electric assisted steering columns these days, might be an easier thing to make bolt-on. There's a kit in one of the comics for £££ but I can't imagine it's much more than parts from the scrappy adjusted to fit.
    1 point
  3. OK so finally, here we go, this is a slightly old version of a spark advance table that I currently use, so this was a sort of work in progress, for one thing I think I reined the advance in the idle cells back a degree or two: I have the idle valve set to warm up only, I do NOT use it for closed loop idle control. There are so many variables that it is extremely difficult to get it to work without oscillating, maybe I am just unlucky, too perfectionist or what, I don't know To explain how this works.... Idle is normally in the boxes 40-45 kpa, and 800-1000 rpm In these boxes, I set an advance that gives me a nice smooth idle, AFR is around 13.5-13.8 or so, RV8s like this. If you start adding a load at idle to the engine, the rpm will dip, this will shove the ECU into the 5-800 rpm territory, where there is a higher advance figure This greater advance pulls the idle back closer to where it should be Also... the higher advance in boxes 20-35 kpa and 500-1000 rpm helps to being the idle back to something sensible after a dip. I suppose you have to think of it like the bottom corner is where you don't want your to be, by using greater spark advance, and keeping your normal idle speed in a 'hollow' in the spark map, the idle will want to stay where you put it.
    1 point
  4. in no particular order --- the 5 tabs on rear crossmember [2 bolts/nuts at each outer end & 2 bolts into each of 3 nut plates on the central 3 tabs. nut plates are actually rivetted to the body lip. 2 mounts just outboard of rear [2nd row] seat belt floor brackets bolt/nut each side] 2 brackets from cross member to rear of front seatbox panel 4 bolts/nuts 4 body brackets from rear outriggers to body panel below front edge of 2nd row rear seats. 4 bolts/nuts through the rear seat underfloor beam 2 bolts/nuts to brackets just in front of front seat box lower front lip 2 bolts/nuts each side bulkhead to chassis brackets 2 bolts each side front wing to chassis brackets & the bulkhead/door pillar bolts/nuts 1 each side to front outriggers arrows in blue are where these bolts/nuts fit Attached Thumbnails
    1 point
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