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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/28/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    It's 2 maybe 3 weekends work if you haven't done it before. Do the head gasket and timing belt on the vehicle, then lift out the engine and do the crank rear seal. There's plenty of how to films on you tube so that you can get an idea of the jobs. Much less hassle than finding another engine and all the faffing about that that involves. HTH Mo
  2. 1 point
    Great pics and recommendation! We are on the way there next Spring. Thinking about hopping to Sardinia and maybe (although we may not have time) continue to Sicily and back through Italy. From what we’ve seen though, there’s no reason to rush and we could just stay there and then come back 😁
  3. 1 point
    And another pic of after I washed them ready for the bin as I don't want to collect trash but will clean it just incase i'm not sure about anything
  4. 1 point
    Well we ended up going to Barmouth yesterday instead of today and once we got there we could see that there was a dirt bike meeting in progress on the beach so had to detect further up the beach, anyway I had a great few hours on the beach was a bit cold I was ok but my son and missus was getting cold so after 4 hours we decided on having a pint and some pub lunch and headed back home, anyway here is a pic of my finds before I washed them
  5. 1 point
    Here how I would approach this: 2mm plate (maybe 4" x circumference of the leg plus four inches) and a couple of big G clamps or quick grips. Grip the plate to the leg with the long edge against the bottom of the table, leaving an inch overhanging. Bend the plate around the leg, moving the grips closer to where you're bending all the time. Once you've got 180 degrees round, take it out, cut off leaving enough to bend some tabs outward in the vice. Repeat. You'll end up with two brackets that nearly fit around the leg with the flanges sat flat together. If you want to be clever, leave space between the flanges on one side for the actuator to fit between. Drill holes in the flanges to bolt together. To finish it nicely, cut what is essentially a big washer to fit between the table and your newly made piece. You could do this with a band saw, chain drilling, grinder or hole saws - whatever you have available. The actuator can bolt to the bracket to raise the table, either between two flanges (probably the sturdier) or to the side. Gravity will do the rest. Low tech, removable and easily fitted
  6. 1 point
    Bearing in mind how good the last few generations of Range Rover/Discovery have been off-road and on road, there can't be much doubt the new Defender is going to be more than adequate, and from the series 1 onwards the design brief was for a light utility vehicle which they have made progressively slightly more comfortable through the years . For heavy stuff they made the forward controls, 101, Wolf etc. Any extension of the envelope into a challenge truck, motorsport, heavy industry or having a cherry picker bolted to the back was always stretching things into compromise. I wouldn't think they would go any further with the new one, probably just more efficient, comfortable, modern looking with some light utility capability. The number of fatigue failures I've seen on 4x4's in Africa while I've been out in the wilds crossing deserts, long long corrugated dirt roads, smashing through bush etc, is tiny - certainly never seen wheels sheered off at the studs, apart from an old arab guys 'cruiser once, but he only had two wheel studs anyway. I did crack my chassis once but that was a 40 year old Range Rover on the worst road in Africa (Moyale Road back in the day before the Chinese fixed it) with 3/4 of a ton in the back. Sure, broken springs, exhausts, bits falling off - I was on a road so bad once that both my track rod ball joints snapped off, but given all those things, in an old cruiser, defender, patrol, hi-lux, you're getting home eventually, with wire, cable ties and a stick. Articulation - yes can be useful but not a game changer. My wifes old Fiat panda 4x4 has very little but will run rings round a Defender off road. What I do see though, long before anything has had chance to fatigue its way off, get broken or got stuck or otherwise due to poor wheel travel, is Discovery 3/4, Range Rovers, Modern Toyota 4x4s, ford rangers, Mitsubishi tritons etc going past me the other way on the back of a truck or abandoned in the middle of nowhere because a sensor malfunctioned, an ECU fried, a plastic manifold cracked or water got in to the electrics. Wheel bearing gone - no problem, just swap it at the side of the road - oh no, can't do that, need to swap the entire hub. No way i'm getting one of these new fangled things - in fact I've just bought a new Landy for travelling round Africa in - a 1970 S2a with a nice big pig iron 2.6 straight six 😛🤘
  7. 1 point
    Standard Defender steel and HD/Wolf are all nut-centric. There is a gap around the hub spigot.


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