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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hi, Just found this in another forum. Could it be what's hiding in mule's clothing? http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/steam-powered-land-rover-photos-videos-70639?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=12-20-18#post123450 Mike
  2. 2 points
    A new tail gate made by my friendly fabricator... He said he surprised himself - I’m delighted ! The only bit re-used is the tilt hooks. Tub has gone to paint and I’ve made up the final list of parts I need to buy for it. Getting closer.
  3. 2 points
    Cruise control works !.many thanks v8 freak for your help 😊👍👍🇿🇦 I would never have been able to get it working without the pinout you sent. I used a rocker switch for on/off and a spring return self centering on/off/on toggle switch mounted in the bracket hole below the wipers stalk, made an arm from a piece of hydraulic tubing and shaped a matching knob from a piece of plastic, will send a pic later.
  4. 2 points
    a 5.0 p38 is a very cool concept and i want one. especially in manual form... but i think if you dont supercharge it, youll be missing a trick
  5. 2 points
    A few illustrative pictures; Road to camp - log bridge: This is what happens when Kai gathers a little firewood - team support trailer: Tapio's support C306's are well stocked: In camp, typical sorts of scenarios: Yours truly being stopped by the DPC (police): A bit of Tourist class: The class system is good and works well, but you have to be wary of who's coming up behind you - if you do TR3 you become cannon fodder for the Proto/TR4 class who will hunt you down and then destroy everything in their wake, so that you get stuck & become a road-block to the other protos, and then you're in a world of pain.
  6. 1 point
    That looks cracking! Or rather not likely to crack! Whatever, jolly good show
  7. 1 point
    I know this is an old thread, but came across it the other day while trying to diagnose a similar... nay, identical problem with my MSed Rover SD1. It’s funny how particular engines have idiosyncrasies that seem to be fairly common across the make?!? So the first thing I was working on was cold acceleration (and I mean Australian cold, so 20-40 degree coolant temp). The thing would hesitate badly under a jab of the throttle until warm. Looking at the logs, the MAP would increase before the TPS registered a delta so this thing sucks a lot of air at part throttle. Changed the accel enrichment balance to 50/50 MAF/TPSdot and after some tweaks to the percentages, managed to eliminate the issue. Also noticed enrichment was lasting 2 secs instead of 0.2s leading to an unnecessary dump of petrol so I sorted that too. Next issue was the one discussed here, and it was harder to diagnose as it didn’t really show in the logs (AFR was fairly steady). Car would catch and fire fine, run for a second or so and then revs would drop, occasionally cutting out. If it didn’t cut out, after 2-3 secs it would sputter to recovery and idle fine. If I turned it off and back on then... not a problem - only the first cold start would exhibit these problems. Now, I’m not running spark yet as I always wanted to get the fuel dialled in and working first, and idle speed is still “managed” by the extra air valve, so settings around advance and stepper motor control weren’t relevant. This thing started and ran fine on the stock setup with the extra air valve, so I knew it was possible... just wasn’t sure what was causing the problem. Tried messing with the cranking PW which just caused it to crank longer, then last night I bumped the ASE buckets up from 30% to 60% and lo and behold, it started perfectly! Repeated the test this morning, and again, not even a waver to the idle after catching. Looks like as others have said, these things need a lot of extra fuel just after start. Anyhoo, hope this helps someone trying to diagnose the same. Cheers, Tom
  8. 1 point
    liquid gases are classed as marine pollutants , try being a refrigeration engineer and getting van across to the I.O.W on the ferry , still one benefit usually got put on first , the idea being in the event of a fire they'd lower the ramp and push the van off! had to hide the oxy/ acet under the seat !
  9. 1 point
    Retroanaconda has a good guide, I think posted on here originally: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2011/11/defender-side-window-demisters/ Biggest issue with the volume of air is leaks. Heater box to bulkhead being the main culprit.
  10. 1 point
    Hi Tom. If you're looking for the part number as opposed to the physical cable in the engine bay, then this is it: https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/FSE500080
  11. 1 point
    Watching with interest. If I can help in any way please shout. Mike
  12. 1 point
    Personally if it were mine and the discs are not completely trashed, I'd top up the swivel oil, put some new pads in to tide you over, wait for the warmer weather and do it yourself. Mo
  13. 1 point
    Use a series/ex MoD centre seat? The back folds down, or if the seat base is removed it leaves a nice open frame that a cubby box could be clipped into.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Got the rack assembled and fitted. Several large bolts on each side to hold the rails down, with a large dollop of Sikaflex under each one hopefully permanently sealing the sheet edge and rivets. And then a few large-flange pop-rivets along the vertical side to complete the assembly. It is very strong. The bars are over-length deliberately so I can use the tails as lashing points, plus there will be beta-pins shoved through to hold the bars in place when I need them, and when I don't I can pull the pins and slide the bars out. I decided I should go the whole hog and invade Europe, so mounted a 105mm Howitzer on the front, which when combined with my roof hatch gives it a rather dashing look, don't you think? As a pacifist I've gone for the cardboard Howitzer which should be less controversial (well until it rains) then I suspect more than my spirits will droop......

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