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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/01/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Make the jump anything Milwaukee make is brilliant.
  2. 1 point
    Cheers I love these old machines, I have a 4 stroke too. I found this one didn't want to go having been sat since the summer, but just wanted the corrosion cleared off the points and away she went. I think they suffer from the points only closing during a very small part of crank rotation, so chances are they'll always stop open and furr up. I have a feeling dirty points (and decaying coils) are the cause of many words of rage over the years! Was a fun little project.
  3. 1 point
    Not really, but that rarely seems to stop anyone The problems come when using the correct size cable for the crimp, when it's difficult to get good solder penetration through the cable without melting all the insulation (so poor current handling), and if you manage it, the sharp change of stiffness in the cable (promotes breakage of the cable strands). If you're making cables for trickle charging you'll likely be using undersize wire for the terminal, so soldering makes sense and isn't too hard if you've got a decent iron. Anderson does (or did at least) make reducing ferrules for crimping undersize wires into their terminals. If you are using full size wire (i.e. that more or less fills the anderson terminal) then the Durite 'hammer' crimp tool (Durite 0-703-90) should be useable and isn't too spendy. If you want shiny, the CTEK 0.8 Motorcycle chargers are fine for the job, and cheaper than the 'big number' versions, though still not exactly cheap. I use a pair of them for exactly this job, but I didn't pay anything like list price. These are worth a look at a more sensible price? On past experience Mascot will be at least as well built as a CTek. The trader sells around various techie boot sales (think Sodbury with more wires). The units are used and probably a bit grubby, but a friend bought a couple last year and seems happy with them.
  4. 1 point
    I ended up reusing the original Heated Rear window timer module and just connecting it to the ground side of the unused Heated Front Screen relay coil in the Disco 2 Fusebox. Trying to Access to Heated Rear Window relay coil in the Disco2 Interior fuse was difficult due to it being tied in to the IDM. It seems to work ok using this method. For the EFI, made my own engine harness with the original wiring colors, and connected it to the Disco2 Fusebox to allow control of Fuel Pump and Main Relays. I reused the original Fan Timer module on the ground side of the Disco 2 Fan Relay. All in all its been a fiddly and time consuming job, but along the way, Ive learnt a lot about the Disco 2 electrics
  5. 1 point
    @landroversforever, have you considered 3d printing a battery adapter? There's a M18 to Ryobi adapter on thingiverse which could probably be adapted. I second muddys comment though. I got into them after experiencing their big 1000 lbft impact, but now have a lot of different tools. Get a decent socket on something and its unlikely its not going to come off. Hasn't failed me yet, only one it thought about was a seized crank pulley but a decent socket and that came off easily enough.
  6. 1 point
    If you don't want to do it yourself, Paul Marsden works next door to Richards, and will do the work in about 2 weeks. There is normally a fair waiting list though.
  7. 1 point
    I did a straight chassis swap, no other items replaced took me 27 days working evening & weekends & a full week off work to get it done with the help of a friend, this including T wash/prime & paint the new chassis. my thread is in this forum.
  8. 1 point
    I did mine entirely myself over a number of weeks (about 14 days worth of work if I recall correctly), there's a thread in the members vehicles forum which covers the process. I was in for around £4k in total once I'd finished, and I only replaced what was necessary (plus a few bits that made sense in terms of access etc.) - the chassis was over half that.
  9. 1 point
    There is a new kid on the block making chassis https://www.xdchassis.co.uk/ I have seen one in the metal, and the welding is excellent
  10. 1 point
    I was fortunate in being able to reduce the cost of my rebuild in that it being linked to my buisness I could reclaim the VAT, if I had to loose that 20% it would of added almost another 1K to the cost plus the mechanic I use is not VAT registered and his labour charge was £20 per hour, he's very reasonable and knows his Land Rovers. The LR parts shop local to me are also very reasonable in their prices and having an account with them further reduces the cost of parts. The way my mechanic and I planned it out was for me to fetch and deliver the new chassis to him and then for me to buy and supply him with the parts as and when he needed them, that way nothing would get damaged or lost, especially all the small bits. He supplied odd bits, certain nuts and bolts, he made up all the new brake lines and with his 'consumables' such as fluids, welding etc. all that came to under £200. If you have to put in a new battery box go for the aluminium one, this comes in a kit of parts which fits all together with pop rivets but one tip to observe is that when riveting in the base of the box you need to have the flat heads of the rivets on the outside, if you don't the rivets will foul on the chassis.
  11. 1 point
    Um, you don't weld a bulkhead to a chassis - it is held on with two long bolts. Whole job requires zero welding, and only needs a grinder if you have to cut a stubborn bolt off (hence buy new nuts & bolts so you can sacrifice a few). Also, the chassis swap is mostly just unskilled labour and a bit of heaving & ho-ing. If you don't own one, borrowing or even buying an engine crane would pay for itself for this job alone. With that, a grinder, and not a lot of other stuff you could do it, albeit slowly, single-handed on a driveway if you really had to.
  12. 1 point
    With some sensible prep (buying new bushes, brake lines, nuts & bolts, and soaking all the critical fasteners with WD40 a week in advance) and a bit of help it's really not too bad. I've posted it before and I'll post it again..
  13. 1 point
    To give you some idea Keith my Defender 90 cost me just under 4K to rebuild including the labour. Everything below body floor level was replaced except for the wheels and axles including all mounts, all nuts, bolts and washers, both footwells and battery box, fuel tank, new radiator and while the engine and box was exposed a new timing kit was fitted as was a new radiator and complete heavy duty clutch assembly, I will post it all up with pictures sometime. You are quite right in assuming that doing a rebuild will be better than replacing the vehicle, you would probably have to fork out much more for another than the cost to rebuild yours and 12 months down the line the replacement one could well need the same treatment. Total labour time spent on mine was 80 hours.
  14. 1 point
    Could you charge the battery through the 12v permanent live that goes into the rear light box ? Mo
  15. 1 point
    Ta. I drive it sympathetically off-road and have never broken a halfshaft or CV, though a couple of 2-pin diffs have been ... modified. I don't want to upgrade all the front end, which is part of the reason for going for ATB rather than full locker. Most of the situations that get you stuck in off-road conditions here are simply overall lack of traction rather than trying to winch up a cliff, the challenge is usually getting up wet slimy peat-covered hillsides etc so the absolute component load is not too threatening, it's just the lack of grip that makes the most lightly-laden wheels start to spin. As for "proper off roading", trust me you can do plenty of that without endangering standard parts

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