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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    In the interests of providing some closure with info that may save someone else some grief I have measured the various bearings and seals for the 101 PTO and give some cross reference numbers that should be recognizable to any bearing shop. Item numbers are for the 101 parts book. Item 4 Thrust Bearing, Cross Shaft, 591806 AXK3552 Item 7 Roller bearing 591814 KT354013 Item 13 Roller bearing, cross shaft and output shaft 591807 AXK3047 Item 15 Thrust bearing 591813 KT303513 Item 18 Oil Seal 591819 30X40X7 SKF A10296 Item 31 O-ring 571991 15mm ID 2mm rope dia.
  3. 1 point
    I’ve mentioned it here before. I wasn’t sure if you needed the Td5 ECU connected to communicate with the 10AS module. I can now confirm if you plug your Nanocom into the original OBD port, which for me is in the depths of the auto console. You can communicate with the 10AS alarm unit without it present.. I’ve just managed to get it to auto lock if you don’t open the door..
  4. 1 point
    Yes, 2 wires for the shift solenoids, one for the lockup, and one for the 'pressure', a modulated signal determining how the ferocious the changes are and how tight the clutches hang on. Megashift, or any of the arduino-type based transmission controllers will do it happily in DIY form, or you can go with one of the commercial offerings, but expect to pay 4 figures for it.
  5. 1 point
    Update, for anyone else trying to do this. Whilst trawling back through old copies of L/R mags, i found an article in LRM july 2013 (see it does pay to keep all those old copies, tell the wife!) Defender ABS Retro fit. Fitting a TD5 ABS to a ROW (Rest of world) TD5 loom, which is what i have. Anyway, wont bore you all with detail, but it was done and sucessfull, by IRB developments. I just have to beaver away and find out some of these last few wiring details as the article was not that in depth. I also have to work out how to wire in a OBD2 diagnostic socket as i had not thought about the fact that i way need to do some diagnostics or at least reset the ABS ECU.
  6. 1 point
    Monkie, Western and Maverik - as always thank you for your invaluable support. Mark
  7. 1 point
    I'll pencil in my diary, not been on a decent LR expedition for a while... (expedition = driving my 90 south of the boarder)...
  8. 1 point
    I've given up on those type of bulb holders and lenses, they're ridiculously poorly made even the genuine ones. I think I'm going to be putting the LED module type on the next truck.
  9. 1 point
    The spacers fitted...
  10. 1 point
    Garry, A bit of easy disassembly today and I have found my problem. The constant mesh gear and shaft assembly is good. My problem is the thrust bearing 591813 (Item 15 in the parts list) that lies between the bevel gear (Item 6) and the cross shaft (Item 9) is completely missing. Fortunately, like you say, I have not used my winch much so there is no scoring on the running surfaces of the mating parts. I see no sign of the race but what made me think a bearing had collapsed was that I had seen some of the rollers coming out in the oil during its annual change. As for root cause analysis. On pulling things apart I note that once you have the bearing support (Item 17) and its shims off the output shaft can be pulled out the housing. My suspicion is that at some time in its life the seal has been changed and the shaft pulled partially or completely out which has allowed that first thrust bearing to fall out of the stack. The mechanic has pushed the shaft back in and there has been nothing external to say that the bearing is now gone. This accounts for the excessive free play in the output gear end float.


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