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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    After a long journey by car & boat, supported through people I have yet to meet, the roof hatch has arrived !!! Collected yesterday, and...... what a relief - it actually fits inside the roll cage !! 😂 Now it is time to think about the lifting mechaniscm.. Again, thanks you all !!!!
  2. 1 point
    Wow it's been a long while since we had a bit of rough and tumble on here <rubs hands in anticipation of handbags at dawn>
  3. 1 point
    Nope, sorry you’ve lost me here. Please use only facts and possibly numbers here to explain to me how a low profile tyre with the resultant smaller variation in dynamic contact patch and much higher frequency of response is more stable on 1. A corner with severe corrugations. 2. When it hits a bump in the road it can’t conform over. 3. A typical unmade rough track with stones and potholes Remember this is the defender replacement we’re discussing so there shall be no talk of asphalt or roads!! I’m just not buying into any concept that a low profile tyre is better off road than one with a greater than 75% aspect ratio. Maybe you can prove it with modern magic and show me for the dinosaur I might well be.
  4. 1 point
    What tech level and what harsh environments? Let’s keep cryptic answers for the cryptic forums. He’s been a very forthcoming contributor to this topic and one of the very few commenting who actually has some level of technical knowledge which I embrace rather than the blah blah which makes up most of the posts. I would prefer if there was a rule where every post had to have a number or fact in it. Maybe you misunderstood the point I was making about sidewall depth which is why I said “up to 33” and your referral to large tyres have no relevance to my point. I’ll try to explain my position on the subject for clarity: The ability of a tyre to conform to the contours of an uneven surface is an essential attribute of an off highway tyre. This is more or less completely lost on a 30” tyre with an 18” rim. As the rim size goes up and the overall tyre diameter remains the same at say 30” then progressively less sidewall remains available to allow the tyre conform to contours. A 22” rim with a 30” diameter tyre would be like the worst case scenario but people still do it. A taller rim and lower profile tyre means that when you’re actually using a vehicle in a harsher environment than Chelsea or when you gently bump the kerb dropping the kids off at school then you don’t dent the rim. There’s a lot more to a tyres traction on slippery surfaces than just the tread pattern . Tell me of any off highway motorsports where low profile tyres are the preferred norm? Have you ever personally tried changing a low profile tyre on a rim compared to a standard 85% aspect ratio? Which tyre will remain inflated longer with a small spinifex bush type puncture? Which tyre will absorb potholes and stones or rough surfaces better? which tyre will impart lower forces to the suspension and drivetrain? Remember this is a DEFENDER replacement we’re discussing here, if this were a new discovery I would agree with every point that yourself and Mike and Fridge has raised and there would be no topic but the tyres that we have seen thus far in testing are yet another aspect of this vehicle, like the suspension and drivetrain that does not look as though it has been designed and optimised for arduous off highway utility use.
  5. 1 point
    I've been a land rover enthusiast for 40 years, why would I do that? Out of curiosity, how long have you been involved in the industry?
  6. 1 point
    There is a brake / transmission oil temp, warning light test relay in the picture in This post, (it is the relay on the left) Wire colours are: 30 black 85 black 86 red/white 87 slate/red 87a black The relay wiring & operation are discussed in the following few posts. @western I guess this is the relay you are referring to.
  7. 1 point
    Keep the yellow volt sensitive relay, it stop rear screen heater operating when engine is not running & alternator is not charging. One relay should be brake fail light check on start up, not sure of wire colours as I am not near my wiring diagrams
  8. 1 point
    From left to right: (I think) 1: Intermittent wiper relay. 2: --- 3: Headlamp relay 4: Starter relay 5: Flasher relay What colour wires do you have going into number 2? (I can't really tell from that image)
  9. 1 point
    Mate of mine arrived at work with another mate laying in the engine bay of his golf operating the throttle, he was driving with his head out the window to see round the bonnet and shout instructions... No, he wasn't the sharpest tool in the box.
  10. 1 point
    That's the problem with these new fangled, untested coil springs. Nobody has any idea. It's all finger-in-the-wind and maybe it'll work. Plus all the extra bits that nobody really understands. "Control arms" and the like... You don't want any of that gubbins. Leaf springs and a calloused arse are all you need! 😂 And possibly some dental work when your teeth rattle loose now and again...
  11. 1 point
    This is why I find it hard to contemplate buying any "kit" or "rebuild" partly or fully "finished", because people are animals and I'd have to strip it back to almost bare & check everything was pukka just for peace of mind.
  12. 1 point
    Hi, First day of the new year, and i thought it was fitting to start a topic about my new Project. Yes, Shock horror, after 28 years on my Landy, I decided it was time for a change. My new project is a 4x4... but it is not a Land rover... No, I thought there are other cars about that I fancy having a go at (not many, but still). I fancied a classic car. And the one that started of the whole 4x4 scene, a willys MB Jeep. They just look right and there is so much history to them that that is the one car that always had my interest. They are a bit spendy though, in recent years even complete rust buckets won't go for less than 5K, usually incomplete and without V5, to a running one for about 10K, up to well over 20K for a minter. That was not what I had in mind, and added to this is that in reality, a willys jeep is not much of a car: They tend to have their spec stencilled on their hoods in the uk: And that pretty much says it all; Although added to this should be no heater, manual wipers and almost no brakes. The general advice for these is not to enter a motorway which makes sense, but if I am going to get one of these, I want it to be able to get along with normal traffic. Which is 70 MPH in the UK and ideally a bit in reserve as well. So then my mind goes into modifying ideas, but the problem is that this devalues the car, which just does not make sense to me if you spend a lot of money in the first place.. Like most iconic cars, people had a go at imitating it, most notably the Jago Jeep, based on an escort MK2. Many people have done home grown replicas, usually based on suzuki chassis. Neither of these interested me much, as it is just too far away from the real thing. There is, for us in the Uk an alternative though: the Mahindra Jeep. Generally overlooked by most people, due to having a bad name, they were sold in the UK between 1990 and 1995. They were license build Willys jeeps, build in India with the blessing of Jeep. Their spec is based on the Willys CJ3B Jeep, which is the latest and greatest Willys jeep ever build; They have a 4 speed gear box (as opposed to 3 speed of the original Willys), hanging pedals with a brake booster, a Peugeot Diesel engine, A dana 44 rear axle (very strong) and a chassis made out of thicker material. They tend to be overlooked as they were withdrawn from the UK market due to quality problems and a following dispute between the importer and the mahindra over who was going to settle the bill. Problem is of course that if you try to sell a car 50 years after it was originally was designed, you will have to deal with different expectations. I suppose it didn't help that Top Gear did a feature on the worst car ever made, and guess who came out on top... Anyway, Having looked at this option, I decided it is worth looking into. The rolling chassis is basically identical to the MB, so a replica MB body bolts straight on. The only real difference is it being RHD, and there is no such thing as a RHD Willys MB. So a bit of modding will be required here. It is also possible to lower the bonnet and bulkhead and replace the wings, grille and screen to make it look like an MB. Anyway, A mahindra it is, and this is what I bought: From 1990, with a V5 on diesel and a body falling apart from rust holes, it was ideal for what I want with it. And it was very cheap. Engine did run, but the clutch was seized solid. 30K miles on the clock, these things don't travel far, as they aren't very quick. with a bit of work I dismantled it into this: Into this: I didn't expect chassis were riveted together in 1990, but this one certainly is: So that is where I am now. Plan is to fit a newer engine, I bought a VW 1.9 TDI from a Pasat for it. Disc brakes, PAS and overdrive, and topped of with a Willys jeep replica body, this is going to be my modern day classic car. Daan
  13. 1 point
    Having fun doing it, learning a lot... here testing the rear loom before installing it....
  14. 1 point
    You need air suspension... like the new defender will have
  15. 1 point
    Well, there is progress to report, not much physically to show, but a lot of hours have gone into it. The main focus has been on the Chassis; It is structurally sound, however, the front spring hangers were twisted, so a bit of jigerry pokery with my neighbours portapower was needed: Also, there is a strip spot welded to the bottom of the chassis rail, and this formed some rust sandwich of about 5mm think in places: I removed the strip, by drilling off all the spotwelds. This also meant all the spring hangers had to be removed. This means drilling off 2 rivets and grind through 2 welds. After all this, I replaced the rear crossmember and front bumper. In jeep world, replacing a cross member means drilling of the rivets, and bolt on a new one, which costs £50. All good, Daan
  16. 1 point
    Hi there, New to the forum but been lurking for a while. I bought a 2001 110 300tdi from Georgia Russia and I've been tearing into it quite a bit. I've got a build thread on another forum that I'm sure some have seen but I'm looking for more information on what I'm doing. So far I've gone through the wiring which was a mess and a fire hazard so that pretty much gone, no wires left, gonna start from scratch. When it came down to doing a new wiring harness that was the tipping point for me and I decided to do an engine harness for a V8 instead, so along comes my 2017 L83 ls motor with a 6L80. Got a good deal on it with only 6600 kms. I got my 300 tdi out (155000kms on it) and I'm going to be selling it and a bunch of other stuff once I get it cleaned up and go over it but for now I have a clean slate, no engine/transmission and no electrical. I'm going to move my wiring harness to the drivers side and weld up all the holes in the bulkhead as well I ordered a Restomod heat/AC unit to go in cab with a custom dash. This frees up a bunch of space where I might be able to move a dual battery tray to the engine compartment where the heater box was. That will have to wait until the engine is in. My interior will be completely redone and eventually the body work on the exterior. All in all it's in rough shape but I've seen worse I guess. I have a complete 2" lift kit from Gwyn Lewis that's going in along with the steering upgrades. I'll be back at it this weekend I hope, lot's to do. My first problem I've found is the new Gen V L83 exhaust manifold are going to be a problem, even Nick isn't sure what to use there. I really don't want to have to fab them up but we'll see what I can find. Thanks, Sean
  17. 1 point
    Well I ended up getting the entire front including inner guards and radiator support from a Disco 2 that was about to be crushed. Cut through the trans tunnel and floor and lifted the whole lot off in one go. I'll have it all blasted and painted while its off.
  18. 1 point
    Hi Hobbit, Any ideas of who might stock/ supply SuperPro and what are their prices like? Shrek
  19. 0 points
    A friend has just bought a single seat hill-climb car and (luckily) decided to strip it before driving it... There are multiple bodges (asymmetric rear suspension due to putting the tie rods on different sides of the upright for example) but this one I just had to photograph... it's the clutch cable:


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