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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Looks okay. I've no problem with the looks.
  2. 2 points
    The lego model is the closest I will come to owning one, so I guess its actually the most relevant part of this thread to me!
  3. 2 points
    Look, you're in the wrong place to get someone to talk you down off the ledge. You've got wings. Fly. Take the money with you and soar with the eagles. and more pics once you have bought them pls ๐Ÿ˜‰
  4. 1 point
    Do you ever get the feeling you should of left well enough alone๐Ÿค”
  5. 1 point
    About 50% more that can afford or want to spend.
  6. 1 point
    I've attached all that I have for 1991 to 1994 Defenders. Defender 1991 Wiring diagram.pdf
  7. 1 point
    The Haynes manual I have is fairly accurate (but needs to be in colour...) drop me a PM etc
  8. 1 point
    Beat me to it. That matches the fuse cover that I have on the 1994 200TDI 110 3 door commercial that I have here.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    It looks like AutoSparks have screwed up. I am unable to find a wiring diagram for a 200TDI, so I have taken this from the 300TDI diagrams. (the earlier 90 - 110 pre TDI models just had the resistor, with no diode) The picture below shows how the charge light circuit with the diode should be wired. (This would appear to be in keeping with my test results from the 200TDI here last night) With the ignition switch in position"II" a feed is supplied to the ignition/no charge warning lamp (pin 4 on the 10 way plug) on a white wire. The warning lamp (from pin 5 on the 10 way plug) is earthed via the diode (C118-1) on a yellow/brown wire* and through the alternator field windings (C185-1) on a brown/yellow wire.The flow of current through the warning lamps and field windings partially magnetises the rotor. A resistor (C037-1& C038-1) is wired in parallel with the warning lamps to ensure continued exciter voltage in the event of bulb failure. *The Yellow/Brown wire in the diagram is Brown/Yellow on the 200TDI loom. This should give you enough info to rebuild the circuit. As for the oil light: Earthing the oil light wire at the engine end. (ignition on) If the the oil lamp on the dash illuminates. then the problem is with the sender on the engine. If the oil lamp does not illuminate, then I would check the bulb, and connections at the bulb holder. (perhaps even the copper contacts that the 10 pin plug slides onto?) Hope this helps, Hippo.
  11. 1 point
    Yes, as it shows low or no oil pressure
  12. 1 point
    the in loom charge light resistor looks like this out of its covering & loom, it located in the dash/main loom, to left of instrument pack about halfway along to where the Radio, rear wash/wipe,cig lighter wires come out of the loom. usually taped inside & covered with a insulating sleeve. It's not easy to access & the resistor inside looks like a glass fuse with a wide ridged strip inside. [it is NOT a fuse]
  13. 1 point
    Just had a fiddle with the 200TDI here. It does matter it seems, how you measure the continuity for the Brown/Yellow wire. Pretty sure that there is a diode in the brown/yellow, hidden somewhere between the dash warning light plug and the Bulkhead to Engine loom plug. The continuity tester on my meter did not beep when testing in either direction. BUT with red+ connected to the Brown/Yellow at the dash plug, and the black- on my tester connected to the bulkhead to engine loom plug, it did register a resistance. I repeated the same tests with a test light: NOTE - For the live in this test I used+12v from one of the white wires that are live with the ignition on, (I used pin 4 on the left hand warning light panel plug, this was convenient, because the Brown/Yellow goes to pin 5, and you need to make sure that you have power to pin 4 anyway), the plug is unplugged for the test. The warning light panel, and bulkhead to engine loom plugs were unplugged for these tests. If I connect the live to.the Brown/Yellow at the the warning light panel plug, and connect a test lamp between the bulkhead plug and earth, the test lamp will illuminate However If I connect the live to Brown/Yellow at the bulkhead plug, and connect a test lamp between the Brown/Yellow at the warning light panel plug and earth, the lamp will NOT illuminate. If you have +12v at pin 4 of the left hand warning light panel plug (white 10 pin plug with an 8-2 split) when the ignition is on, then, with the plug plugged into the dash, if you earth the brown/yellow at the bulkhead to engine loom plug (unplugged), the red battery light on the warning light panel should illuminate. Hope this helps & good luck ,Hippo.
  14. 1 point
    I'd bet on the Lego model being pretty accurate! They have produced models based on three of the Movies I've worked on (Star Wars VIII, Fantastic Beasts 2 & Spiderman). In each case, the model has been based on actual drawings. In the case of Fantastic Beasts, from Special Effects Drawings I suspect. You see the circle on the top of the roof? There's one on the underside of the chassis too. They didn't appear in the film - because they were the mountings to attach it to a slew-ring on a motion Platform. (I designed the motion platform). That says to me that Lego have good access to drawings - and that the Lego model is likely to be pretty close! That being the case - I quite like it! Si P.S. Almost every rig I've designed has had a Land Rover part in it - guess it's what I know best!
  15. 1 point
    And palatial digs at base camp ๐Ÿ˜†
  16. 1 point
    The fact there aren't more EV's running around as taxis & delivery vehicles tells a lot about the real-life practicality of the current crop I think.

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