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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Ok guys thanks for the info, I’m back in the garage in the morning (Saturdays are all about my boy) so I’ll let you know how I get on. Now I’m armed with some info, I may stand a better chance. As for the PDWA, I’m going to be using the system which come with the TD5 bulk head I bought.... so straight to the low level cap I take it? I’ll keep an open mind what to do with the feed but I think it may come in handy for my fan on the back of the rad (Allisport upgrade). Mr Hippo, you asked what I have, well it’s essentially a 200tdi 90, but it’s a on going project which is turning into a mix and match of different things... I bought a Richards Chassis and the old loom was well, cut more times than some smack heads dodgy gear!! So in my wisest wisdom, I thought I would chuck it away and build my own..... what a mistake!!
  2. 1 point
    Quite a while back on one of my mog axle posts somebody said the above title so here goes Started a project this weekend that I have been considering for a while elements of this are often carried by landrovers in the country ie game keepers but ultimately putting fabrication skills to the test Mods if you are not happy please remove and accept my apologies for posting So the project is to make a standard shotgun lamp Some of the bits cut pieces shaped shaping finished welding up and blending All put together and where I'm at now Going to fab a cartridge belt as part of the stand then buy a suitable lamp shade to finish hope to be complete by the end of next weekend Regards Stephen
  3. 1 point
    I like it, some nice skills there
  4. 1 point
    Does the FL2 have air suspension? / Did yours? That's the crucial bit with the Terrain Response that LR developed, it mimics a solid axle through the use of those cross-link valves (not something I'd heard of on the FL2). Having said that for basically a glorified shopping trolley the FL2 did remarkably well and it was more your (understandable) desire not to trash it that hindered it's progress. It was the same reason why I stopped using the RR for laning trips it was just a little too nice and I didn't / don't have enough disposable income to justify trashing it. Whereas I feel perfectly justified in doing that to the Defender. The major advantage for me on the Defender is that the same basic design has been around for so long that you can build a vehicle from the ground up on new parts quite easily as there are so many after market suppliers. Hence parts can be sourced readily and at a variety of price points. Case in point - I had the RR for about 4 years and it cost me roughly the same as my Defender has over 9 (except that the Defender has had a new gearbox, transfer box, two new axles with Ashcroft internals / pegged lockers (courtesy of @Hybrid_From_Hell), two engine rebuilds (oops ), two sets of BFG KM2s and two sets of wheels over the course of 130k miles. I'd be curious to see how a vehicle setup for pure off-road such as Shannon Campbell's Dragon Slayer (see below) compares on technical off-roading vs. a similar vehicle with no IFS. I know he switched to IFS due to the large gains he could make on the high-speed sections. He was willing to compromise the rock-crawling sections of KoH because he could make up so much time in the fast desert sections. I seem to remember a question posed to him or someone else running an IFS car about not airing down to which the response was it's not worth the time taking to air down and back up when you can chuck 800 horses at the problem . Mind you I don't think he falls into the category of an amateur driver having been the first person (and one of two) to win KoH three times. Awww shucks
  5. 1 point
    It is possible that even though you re did the bearings that they may have been tightened too much and has caused them to fail prematurely. This happened on my Defender once and they failed about a week after using it. Took the stub axles with them too. I would definitely take the outer flange off and have a look inside just to be sure.
  6. 1 point
    I watched you (Ed) drive your RR at a sedate pace up a badly dug out/cross-axley slope that my standard Defender 90 had just refused twice, at a more enthusiastic pace. Yes, wheels left the ground, but so did they on my Defender, and you drove to the top while I drove round. Ed is a carp driver 😜 😘 but the electronics and vehicle dynamics made up for it. D4 had more axle articulation than a 90 or 110 as standard - the most of any LR product at the time apparently. The downside of some vehicles with independent suspension came sharply home when I took my Freelander2 off-road in Wales with a group of Defender drivers. The figures suggest that the FL2 has 5mm less ground clearance than a 110 with a Salisbury axle, and it was just about bearable in ruts, but as soon as a situation where breakover angle came into play there was a bit of a scene, with a lot of waffles, piling up of rocks and realising who my friends were! We got it through, but all the Defenders drove it without help - if not without drama. @Dalai Lama The Freelander just has the same ground clearance all along, without 'extra' between the axles. I am massively looking forward to the new Defender, though there is no way I will be buying one till the beta testing has been done! Luckily, several of my friends have deposits down on them so I will get to see them up close. ...it may even hit Jeep JK/JL values, and I would quite like to try one of those - don't tell though. Chris P.S. Ed is a great driver really.
  7. 1 point
    i just searched companies house for a landrover garage that had recently gone bust and errrm, invented a receipt from them
  8. 1 point
    I’d say keep the Series - for a start, they get stolen less frequently, but most agree they have more character too. You can do a lot to improve daily use, both economically and for comfort. Road biased tyres don’t look great on them, but they will considerably improve fuel economy, handling, noise and safety over aggressive off road tyres, and even moderate ATs. A careful tune up will reap rewards, but electronic ignition like Megajolt and fuel injection will make a huge difference. An LPG conversion will also allow much cheaper fuel (and I think it may help on road fund, but that is another benefit of the Series, which will be tax exempt sooner than a 90). Forget free wheeling hubs - they don’t do anything but cause trouble, but 7.50 tyres in place of 6.00s or 6.50s will help, as could an overdrive (in the long run, but they’re expensive). High ratio transfer box may be worth considering if your engine has the performance to pull it (tuning or the electronics would be needed). 90s have cheaper fuel bills for now due to their (predominantly) Diesel engines having better mpg, but I have concerns that the current political backlash against diesel that is already seeing city bans and surcharges will get worse and will bring extra taxes to make them economically unviable and force us into small petrol cars or EVs. For comfort, parabolic springs, Defender seats, inertia reel seat belts and better door seals do a lot to improve the commute. Overhauling the heater system brings big improvements to cab temperature, and you’ll see that expensive replacements or additional heaters aren’t necessary. Heated screens and mirrors are great, though, and aren’t terribly expensive. If you want a pretty, tough and quiet cab, then the Wright Off Road mat works well, but you can do something effective for less if the budget is too short.

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