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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The bowing is normal and is the reason why Land Rover changed to the adjustable rail mounting for the the rear tub. The genuine NAS rear step even comes with a selection of shims to allow for the bowed crossmember ends.
  2. 2 points
    Suggest you her something to make her happy - a OneTen will never be to drive like a car, whatever you throw at it. If she doesn't like it, she will not like it. Simple. Having said this, we had a 17 year young very French, very girly, young Lady with us last week and she loved driving the old Land Rovers and is showing signs of the well known addiction... Esp. the Ninety was much to her liking... Now her mom worries. A lot. Oh well.
  3. 1 point
    Jeebus Bowie, you've gotta warn us before posting graphic violence against common decency like that! I threw up in my mouth a bit before I managed to scroll past the horror
  4. 1 point
    Thought this was worth spreading; for some reason Sainsburys have NEBO "Big Larry 2" COB LED torches in the light-bulb aisle for £3.50, batteries included. I'm a fan of the "little larry" for living in the car, they give a good spread for working on things rather than a beam like a normal torch and seem pretty solid, and have a good magnet on the base so you can stick it at all angles. The "big larry" is just a bigger version, and £3.50 seems so cheap it feels like someone made a mistake - they're currently £14.99 on Amazon and Screwfix are selling another version (no light in the end) for £12.99 right now I've been using mine a lot during the re-wire and it's been excellent. At £3.50 I might have to go back and stock up a few more before they realise their mistake!
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Yeehaw? But you know, they only sell by the millions and millions.
  7. 1 point
    Was just talking about this in another thread actually. You need an acme thread for that kind of job. Preferably one that's designed as a "forcing screw" and comes with a thrust bearing. Old scissor jacks are a good inexpensive source. Add a piece of pipe and a washer the right size and you're pretty much in business
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Change the wife ? Mo 😎
  10. 1 point
    It's very unfortunate and misleading. The subtitles suggest the new car builds on the heritage of the others, when, in reality, it completely abandons every design feature of the old, bar the fact it has a four wheel drive system and possibly a Land Rover badge. I am generally positive about the new vehicle but hate bull droppings of this type! Not much ground clearance in this video either...
  11. 1 point
    Lamp finished apart from wiring, a coat of clear lacquer and a lampshade most likely with some sort of game bird on it photos are from all angles ( not sure on some of the colouring may have to rub off ) regards Stephen
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Shameful lack of progress as usual due to various other things draining my time, but I have been thinking about roof design and have settled on the below. Not to scale! On my previous workshop I used individual trusses constructed out of 47x100 timber with 22x100 cross-ties and a central vertical piece also. It did not have a ridge beam at all, and the structure of the roof was supported on 47x47 purlins which ran lengthwise. Rigidity was provided by the OSB deck which was screwed to the top and the roofing material was mounted onto this also. This worked very well however it made insulating it a bit of a pain and while it never gave me a single problem it wasn’t as strong as it could be. This time I am going with a more simple construction which will also be a lot stronger. The ridge beam will be of 225x47 and if I can source it, in a single (c. 6.6m) length. It will be semi-structural in that I hope to have a bay in the middle of the building where I can omit the cross-tie on two of the rafter pairs. At 600 rafter centres this will give me a c. 1.8m wide access to loft storage either side. As the roof pitch is going to be steeper (c. 35 degrees - lots of rain!) I will have lots of storage above the rafter ties, even with them raised to around 1/3 the depth of the roof. With 2.5 metres to the eaves and then likely another 750mm to the underside of these ties I will not be short of headroom in the building! With closer spaced and thicker rafters I will be able to fit 100mm thick insulation panels in between, flush with the lower space allowing 50mm above for eaves-to-ridge ventilation. I can then deck the roof with OSB and fit my sheeting on top. The interior of the walls will be boarded out to retain their insulation and if I’m feeling particularly flush I can do the roof too, but I don’t think it will be required. The underside of the rafter ties will be where I mount my lighting as per the previous building.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Made and fitted the brake pipes yesterday inc bled the brakes as well, oh and here are a couple of night pic's
  16. 1 point
    I've done this, twice. Take floor and tunnel out. Remove top cover of gearbox and remove all selectors/forks. They just wiggle out. Be careful you don't loose the detent ball bearings. You will need long nose pliers and some dental floss (!). The 3rd/4th synchro is visible and the new springs can be fed in using pliers. Tie dental floss round each spring and attach the other end outside the gearbox. This saves the tedium of fishing them out through the bottom of the box when you inevitably drop them! IIRC its easier to have the syncro in neutral, slide one end of the spring in and then flick the hub along to get the other end in. The first spring is easier than the last. 🙄 Cut the dental floss when the spring is in place. You will need plenty of patience, but if you are lucky, it will actually take longer to get the floor out and the selector forks out. Use grease to stick the detent balls in place when you fit the top cover. The springs seem to last a lot longer if you make slow changes 3 to 4 and back, pausing in neutral (can keep clutch depressed) before going into the other gear. Its probably quick shifts that fracture the springs.
  17. 1 point
    Whatever your opinions of the vehicle, I think we'd all like to be the test drivers! In that case I suggest the moderators do a deal with the web host which allows lr4x4 to leave the host whilst still being hosted by the host. I would suggest the most appropriate deal would be one which neither the lr4x4 moderators or host moderators desire. If both sides object to the deal equally then logic states they will all agree to it as it's fair. If they don't just keep blindly putting the same deal forward for vote in the hope that people get bored of voting and give up whilst being completely oblivious to the fact that their time wasting is more crippling to the community than either being hosted or not hosted by the host.
  18. 1 point
    I'd rather have a normal looking car that happens to be electric, than some stupid thing with a billion angles that's trying too hard to look futuristic. Look at the issues still plaguing the Model S... don't hold your hopes up.
  19. 1 point
    Coming out of the closet.... We have a milk float.... White Nissan Leaf 30Kw (Black Edition...) I commute 24 miles each way to work and don’t drive it for economy... I charge up daily in work and only charge it home if I need to. (Effectively free fuel...) Real world range travelling within the speed limits is up to 100 miles . (Further at 50 mph than you get at a constant 70 mph as you would expect) It really accelerates fast and will typically keep with or beat the average 2.0 eurobox to 70..... (Around 8 seconds 0 - 60) Harvesting on deceleration, as mentioned above, slows the car down quite a lot but doesn’t put the brake lights on... I’m very wary that I slow down a lot faster than other drivers might expect. At motorway services using a 50 amp DC charger I can get an 80% charge in 45 minutes... Time for a bio break and a coffee.... The infrastructure is unreliable at present. On the occasions I’ve needed to charge at motorway services, one of the chargers has not been working. Using the Milk Float for my commute saves me money. I pay a monthly lease and insure it. Pretty much no servicing... Tyres will wear but hoping to get 20k from the front and more from the back.... The fuel I’m not using in the 90, the lack of servicing of the 90 and reduced insurance annually due to lower mileage is covering the cost of the Milk Float based on 12k miles per year commute. I’ve only done a few long journeys so far, but we didn’t get the car for long journeys in reality, so not really worried about the weaknesses in the infrastructure at present. The current estimates are that the current infrastructure (Not sure if it was also capacity) in the UK National Grid could sustain 15 million EV’s now. I’m sure there were some caveats there to... Charging off-peak overnight etc. There are less than 250k EV’s on the roads at present. If you were to consider a Bolinger for a farm vehicle, the capacity would be more than enough for average daily use. It would probably be ok for the Chelsea Taxi role too, but as soon as you use it for longer journeys, you have to plan your routes, plan stops, build in charge time etc. When EV’s have a real world range of 350 miles with a charge time under 30 minutes and an infrastructure similar to the current fuel network they will be come a real consideration for a lot of people.
  20. 0 points
    Sorry Fridge, I suspect you would prefer that I didn't post any more like this then? .... and to finish with another 'meme', whatever they are:


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