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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    If I remember right, the glowplugs in the pre Tdi diesels can't hit a piston if too long as they sit inside the swirl chamber rather than protrude from the face of the cylinder head. If they are a little too long, the tip that should glow the hottest on a good plug won't be sitting under the injector spray as intended making starting difficult. If they were really too long you wouldn't be able to tighten them up as they would just hit the otherside of the swirl chamber. I beleive Beru plugs to be best in my experience. Here are the correct dimensions for glow plugs for the Land Rover 2.5 NA Diesel/TD:
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    OD fluid pump parts, old seals above their respective locations & new seals fitted. housing fitted ready for the concentric offset drive from main shaft. bottom part of pump assembly in place, the fluid way must match the rear case drilling pump relief valve seat in place, a ball bearing sits in the centre, it's spring in the end cap. ball bearing valve in place fluid pump end cap & spring, this was fitted & screwed down tight. all 3 caps tight in place, ready for the swap over to become the operational overdrive.
  4. 1 point
    This afternoon & evening has mainly be taken up by fitting the new seals to the relief valve, fluid pump & replaced the seals on my newer spare solenoid & the new circular filter in to my original overdrives rear casing, the flat filter in sump & the magnetic strip cleaned, I also bought a new brake cone as well I know the existing cone was new but I didn't want to be taking the OD off again to replace the cone, some photo's below so & after fitting this lot to the 110 & doing a 18 mile test drive on local town roads, a run down to Hayle & back home along the A30, all seems to be OK, I'll check the fluid level in the morning, hopefully the OD should work fine now. Relief valve with new seals fitted & old seals above their respective locations relief valve sleeve in rear case of overdrive, the cut out & fluid drilling must be inline relief valve pin located in the rear case. the 2 springs located on the relief valve pin. relief valve outer sleeve located over the 2 springs & pin. then the end cap is screwed down tight. circular filter location. new circular main fliter,gasket & end cap with new seal fitted. new filter & gasket in place, then end cap is screwed down tight.
  5. 1 point
    New glow plugs do make a world of difference. I went over to Beru after I got some cheap rubbish from Halfrauds. The difference was night and day.
  6. 1 point
    A fun morning with a pick digging and removing seemingly endless amounts of slate leaves me with a nice deep trench for the cable duct. Once I’ve had a sparky round to okay it I’ll stick the duct in, backfill, compact and then can complete the preparations for pouring the slab. Slot the last bit of formwork in, fully peg it all and add some type 1 behind some more areas for further reinforcement. Then DPM and mesh. This is the pile of bigger pieces of slate that came out of that trench. Should start my own quarry.
  7. 1 point
    Thanks monkie for that great info. The truck definitely starts better and I don’t have to count to 15 now for the plugs to heat up.
  8. 1 point
    I had most of the above items galvanised. The front radius arms, third from the top, will require the chassis end threads to be recut. This will require a 20mm x 2.5mm die, not usually included in the typical tap and die set. The rear upper arms, top two items, which I reinstalled today, are quite difficult. I found that installing all the fixings, but keeping them loose, and not locating the tapered bottom fixing of the levelling unit into the fulcrum bracket, LR 1987 110 Parts Catalogue p. 440, Item 16, until the two bolts, same page, Item 17, are installed. During galvanising the threaded hole in the underside of the chassis for fixing the canvas strap to the levelling unit became totally blocked with zinc. This needed drilling out with a 5mm drill and then the thread recut with a 6mm x 1mm tap. The rear radius arms, bottom of the photo, will also need the threaded ends to be recut, another 20mm x 2.5mm die job. Also, of course, all the non-threaded holes, such as on the axle ends of the upper rear suspension arms and the rear shock absorber chassis brackets, in the fifth row down, will need the holes drilled out to clear zinc, and maybe paint. I had the front shock absorber brackets, p. 436 Item 7, galvanised. When they were removed from the zinc bath they were hung with the narrow end down. This resulted in molten zinc accumulating in the narrow end, the top when installed,. This resulted in the shock absorber bushes not seating properly. To fix this I had to use a propane torch, called a Tiger Torch over here, to heat the end of the bracket to melt out the excess zinc. If you get the chance, specify hanging by the narrow, normal top, end. I hope my experiences, and grief, may help you, or anybody else doing a chassis galv exercise. Mike
  9. 1 point
    not much progress so far, but I have made sure all the fluid galleries in my original rear case are clear of dirt & any other items that could cause a restriction, so I'll be building it up tomorrow ready to swap over & hopefully all this work/expense will make this OD work properly. I will take some photo's as it progresses to 'ready to fit' state I have found that the seal kit shown above contains the seals for the relief valve, fluid pump & solenoid seals.
  10. 1 point
    I've a new cap, and hope to fit on Sunday. Eldest is studying electrics at uni, so I might "give him a learning opportunity" when he's home this weekend. I might explore the work to reverse the motor on the drum switch, if he's up to it. I've also bought a boring bar. Chinese, but should be good for my needs.
  11. 1 point
    Especially over something as bitterly disappointing as the new Khan Ranger Rover Defender Sport
  12. 1 point
    Well if I had a suffix K or L R380 lying around then I would probably use that. Unfortunately my 90 currently has an LT77 which simply won't do. I do have a good R380 in the back of the garage but it is a suffix J which is not as strong as the later TD5 R380s. Yes you can buy an uprated R380 from Ashcroft which would be great but they're about £1200, if I'm going to spend that kind of money I would rather buy a transfer box adaptor and use a BMW 6 speed. Would be nice to have six gears too.


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