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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/02/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I found that finding one was not easy... and ended up stumping up for the Ashcroft kit. You may have better luck, especially if you can wait for one to appear.
  2. 1 point
    That's the thing though - mostly the computer will just say something perfectly reasonable like "sensor out of range" (EG it's borken) and the tech will just swap the thing and move on without thinking, because 95% of the time that's all that's needed. It's no different than lazy mechanics ever used to do changing bits and bobs to try and fix a problem without the aid of a computer. People always think computers "know" things like the cause of a faulty sensor - they don't. They only know the sensor reading is unexpected, it's the USER that infers that the cause is a bad sensor rather than spotting that mice have eaten the wiring loom. Also, these days it often is entirely reasonable to change fairly large assemblies to fix a problem, when even back-street mechanics are £50+ per hour there's only so many hours it's worth them spending stripping & rebuilding a part compared to the relatively low cost of new parts nowadays. In the old days, parts were expensive and labour was cheap - that's no longer true in most places. In places like Africa, China, Russia, etc. you can get someone to spend all day rebuilding your starter motor or carburettor for peanuts, while a new part might cost a month's wages, so they tend to rebuild stuff. It's not a conspiracy, it's economics.
  3. 1 point
    To be fair, I did it in mine and the only problem was low range wasn't as low as I'd like - but that was behind a 3.9 V8 and even with 3.54 diffs & overdrive it wanted higher gearing on the motorway. However, a 5-speed box and LT230 is by far the nicer option these days unless the truck is a properly original Series. If it's already had an engine swap then crack on. All I've heard about sticking with Series box & using the HRTC or LT230 adapter is that it's expensive and uncivilised and your main box is still weak.
  4. 1 point
    “They all do that, Sir, and you’ll find it is a characteristic rather than a fault. As such, we can’t sort it out under warranty...”
  5. 1 point
    Don’t do it. I am one of several on here that did, and it was dire. It uses more fuel, because you’ll spend a lot more time in lower gears, and the car will accelerate like a sloth. It’s just too high a gearing step, at about 35% increase. If you fit just the 3.54 diffs by themselves, you probably won’t cause a gear box failure if you drive sensibly, but if you also fit an overdrive or High Ratio Transfer Case (Ashcroft), then it’s just a matter of time until you strip the teeth off third gear. I did that, then another member did a few years later in a textbook copy of the failure. Many of us will vouch for how horrible the car will be to drive, even without the overdrive or HRTC. But, if you are compelled to learn by your own mistakes, rather than those of others, then it’s an easy swap on the front end if you get the diff from a 200Tdi or earlier RRC, Discovery or Defender, and the rear can be swapped from axle to axle without undue trouble. In theory, setting up a Salisbury is meant to be time consuming, but the reality of a diff swap with used parts is very easy as the tolerances of the casings is pretty good and the existing shims are almost always right - leave the existing pinion bearing shims in place and reuse the existing collapsible spacer (you don’t even need to remove the pinion seal), and just fit the 3.54 pinion using the existing bearings. Then fit the 3.54 diff carrier, complete with its own bearings and shims unmolested, and it should work right off the bat. Sounds like a bodge, but the tolerances really are good enough to allow this. Do the pinion nut up to about 150’lbs and you’re done. Fitting the later axles is easy at the back end, not so much at the front, where the steering becomes an impediment and you may also run into front UJ clearance if you have a Defender version of the Tdi (low slung fuel pump and low engine mount underneath it). You can look up the details of how I did that on my blog (axles section) - club the signature below.
  6. 1 point
    Bugger all Ralph. The premise of those devices was that they align the fuel molecules using magnetic field. Fuel is almost exclusively a mixture of non polar organic molecules utterly unaffected by magnetic fields no matter how strong. I think the reason people buy in to these things is that a small fuel saving effect is so hard to reproducibly prove that people selling this tat can get away with backing up their products with some extremely dodgy science!
  7. 1 point
    I thought there was some shenanigans between metric & imperial Salisbury diffs/bearings... from the mists of time when Moglite converted his Ibex to Salisburys. TBH everyone I've heard talk about rebuilding a Salisbury says getting the diff in/out isn't that hard, the "stretch" is very minimal, ISTR moglite just used a pair of pry-bars. If you're running an LT230 then upping the ratio is easy and means you keep a very low low-ratio, there's 1.003:1 LT230's from older Range Rovers out there if you don't want to pay £££ for a set of gears from Ashcroft.
  8. 1 point
    The diffs aren't hard to swap. Getting the mesh correct is harder as swapping shims isn't a two minute job. Also, experience from a few members suggests it's not a pleasant drive after conversion and tends to tip the series box over the edge with the extra resistance. An overdrive is a far better option IMHO.
  9. 1 point
    I thought the rust on my discovery shell was bad! It's definitely the way to give a new lease of life to a good solid discovery chassis and running gear, great to see another 100" project getting started. Seats wise, I have the smart car seats in my 100" and I've managed to get the passenger one to tip forward for access to the battery. Just need to get the seat heaters wired in now!
  10. 1 point
    That is actually a FLUX capacitor ! Cant believe no one recognised it.
  11. 1 point
    And to breed...………….
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    ... And the thing that is really troubling is these people presumably hold a valid driving licence and drive on our roads
  14. 1 point
    It's still amazes me that there are people out there stupid enough to give someone money for one of these ! 😂 Mo
  15. 1 point
    Smart car seats have been done before, so obviously work. As do RX-8 seats. Access to the battery and storage boxes is the achilies heel of non-defender seats. Good to see another 100" joining the club! That chassis crossmember looks like it might need a bit of work tho.
  16. 1 point
    Glad it's getting sorted. I didn't want you to have to buy any tools when I've got them sat at home on a shelf. My tractor is a little old one just for fun. It's a 1957 Nuffield Universal 3 😁
  17. 1 point
    Compomotive used to make an exact replica of that wheel (which is a deep dish, not boost). Often Defenders of 300tdi / early td5 only came with four alloys and a steel spare under a cover so I expect at some point a Compomotive has been purchased to replace a steel spare.
  18. 1 point
    I use (and am very happy with) one of these: https://www.dabonwheels.co.uk/product/kinetic-dra-6001-dab-dab-fm-sw-mw-lw-car-aerial-3/ There is also a shorter version available from the same supplier.
  19. 1 point
    The two CCA figures refer to the Cold Cranking Amps figure measured following different standards - SAE being the American standard, and EN the European one. Which one you choose to pay attention to doesn't really matter, as long as you use the same one for each battery you compare. Likewise the Ah figures can be measured at the 20h rate or 100h rate - that is, draw 1/20th of the Ah capacity for 20h, or 1/100th of the capacity for 100h. Because batteries aren't 100% efficient, and get worse at higher currents, the capacity looks a little better measured at 100h rate. You might infer something about the quality of the battery from how close the two number are if you have them both for the same battery, but its never just that simple. For typical lead-acid starter batteries, once you've met the CCA and Ah specs you've chosen, I'd choose the heaviest one in my price range. Lead is expensive, and heavy, and more of it tends to make a better battery. Again, nothing is ever really that simple, but it's a good guide.


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