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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/16/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Clearly not a viable business opportunity
  2. 2 points
    As bad as the Rover management in the sixties who sink a fortune into jet cars, while the dealers were crying out for V8 series and the engineers were designing direct injection turbo diesel engines in a shoe string?
  3. 2 points
    When you re chassis, you have the perfect opportunity to do this: Daan
  4. 1 point
    I would strongly advise getting those bores measured properly now you are this deep in. Your engineering shop sound really helpful. It may be easiest to remove the block and get it to them because if it does need boring then you'll have to take it to them anyway. If you want to do it yourself then you need a bore dial gauge to do it properly. You take measurements for ovality, out of round and taper. Then compare your findings to the tolerances in the workshop manual.
  5. 1 point
    OK, but I'm happier to have passed it on, and be pushed back, rather than done nothing. I am aware that an Eberspacher is not a 'nearly new tractor'. Regards
  6. 1 point
    that is, to put it bluntly, a load of nonsense. the farmer i get the derv from is running multiple nearly new tractors all running common rail diesel engines. if it was this low quality 'gas oil' (which is btw just another name for diesel!) he would be blowing up 100k tractors every day. red diesel is just diesel with no duty paid. that's it.
  7. 1 point
    You just need smarter Series gauges...
  8. 1 point
    L19mud if you cut two bits of hardwood to the profile you need and then clamp your aluminium between allowing for how much you want to fold over you will find it hammer forms easy enough with a bit of patience I'm talking about the profile for the capping if you want to form the curve for the body curves a couple of bits of wood / angle iron in vice will suffice and then a length of half pipe to form the aluminium around for the curve regards Stephen
  9. 1 point
    Oh so already been re-bored? Took injectors out first as was chasing the white smoke. It was just when I was about to refit the shiny new ones that I saw the oil. Edit: The people at AET Turbos had one look at the turbo this morning and said without a doubt that it's perfect. For there to be any issue with the seals there would be play on the impeller and there is none. So the oil is coming from somewhere else.
  10. 1 point
    I thought it was quite cunning. I don't think they're stainless, but I have a deep dislike of stainless fasteners anyway. I'll be ordering more bits from Pegasus as I need them, for sure. The website is heinous to navigate, but they're helpful on the phone and I'm happy with the quality.
  11. 1 point
    @Snagger I was about to ask if you would sell one of them if you are removing them and then saw your location! I may have a go at making one myself
  12. 1 point
    That is a next level idea!!. What did you do with the floor supports that rest on the chassis? Just trying to visulise what it looks like under there with the body back on! PS - I think you could improve on the routing of your towbar wiring!!
  13. 1 point
    Cheers, the OP does not have a fuel tank in the way.😃
  14. 1 point
    Surely If that oil came through the intake, it would have been burnt off in the combustion process? it wouldn't have just pooled in the cylinders, when you shut the engine down some might have come through but not that much.
  15. 1 point
    Absolutely my view too. I was under the impression spacers were banned in oz anyways.....?
  16. 1 point
    I wouldn't touch spacers with a sh*tty stick in that scenario.
  17. 1 point
    Dodgy bloke that Nick 🤣
  18. 1 point
    what is the difference in spacers and a more negative offset particularly on steel wheels as you will have [i think] more stress on the relatively thin steel of the wheel than on the large chunk of spacer . do you all imform your imsurers of the off set of your wheels


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