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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    New boots. I've finally dropped from 35's down to 33's, it may of looked slightly better on 35's but it definitely drives sooooo much nicer now. Mike
  2. 2 points
    No, won't call you a cynic. Just observant. Over the last year or two, I've watched the law being massively twisted to allow big dollar projects to go ahead in places where the law has been highly restrictive on what ordinary people can do. There was a news headline last week that suggested New Zealand was the least corrupt country in the world. God help the rest of the world! What it all means, though, is that even laws designed to do crucial things, like protecting the environment that has to sustain life, are not immune to being influenced by the very rich (anywhere on earth, as far as I can see). There is a lot of money tied up in car manufacture...
  3. 2 points
    If you make hybrids or electrics you can offset the bigger cars from your range. You also get a bigger co2 allowance for a bigger car. There is more profit in a mini SUV than a hatchback and they get a bigger co2 allowanve so that's what they push down the line. It's the same old with politics in the uk, the people making the rules understand neither the problem or the real world. How one can go from being in charge of health, then the army then education is beyond me. They are only interested in the next few years. Anything that takes longer reflects on their successor not them so there is no motivation for them to lay the foundations for something sustainable.
  4. 2 points
    Don't do it Meccano, it's a trap to keep you on the phone for hours!
  5. 1 point
    Has anyone had an experience with passing a vehicle as a N1 (light goods vehicle) Instead of the M1 cars category. My next project is unlikely to meet the M1 category due to the length of the load bed, without much Headaches and witchcraft. So for ease I was wondering if its easier to simply follow the N1 route, but wondered if it has more complications down the road, tax, insurance, Lez, Ferry crossings, trips to the moon etc. As far as I see it, it would just be like owning a van. Thanks in advance. Chris
  6. 1 point
    The other things that annoys me about environmental matters ... whilst we are off topic ... is the number of individuals who won't do easy things to reduce their consumption. We have had kerbside recycling for some years yet people won't wash tins out, pull the plastic window out of card packages etc etc. Then moan that they don't have enough space in the general waste bin and drive bags of rubbish to the tip or pay for extra collections. Also people who drive 10 miles to work, take a plastic bottle of water and get a drive through coffee on the way in a throw away card cup. Have one at home or take one in a reusable cup. Don't buy clothes from Primark because they're only a quid, wear them once then throw them away because they were only a quid. Buy something well made that will last. It's not hard but people just don't see it or don't care. They will protest for someone else to fix it but it doesn't matter what the government do if 65 million people (or 7bn for that matter) can't be bothered with really basic stuff then it's all meaningless anyway. Anyway... back to the car...
  7. 1 point
    This is how I fitted the oil pressure sender the first time I did one but it looks very vulnerable to vibration or other damage so although I did not have any problems with it, when I changed the engine I drilled through into the gallery at the bottom of the arrowed port. I then tapped the port 3/8 BSP, and fitted a 3/8 BSPP(M) - 1/8NPT(F) adapter and mounted the oil pressure sender direct to the port. It's much more rigid and tucked away from damage here. Note also the addition of the oil temperature sender. This is threaded direct into the casting, which is fairly thin at this point so it requires careful threading, and I stuck the sender in with hydraulic seal so it did not need to be done up very tight to seal. @Peaklander, If you do go for a VDO gauge, I have some of the proper three terminal connectors for the back of the gauge.
  8. 1 point
    After our buzzard rescue, it was time for the wife to injure herself at work and we spent last night at the MIU having her foot looked at. It wasn't great, ligament damage in the foot so she's on her arse for the next few weeks which means i'm doing horse care, dog care and everything she used to do as well as build the Landy...It's a good job i love her Tonight, i spent the time finishing off the phenolic ply suround for the hole itself. It's screwed and glued all the way around. Next job is to 2 part filler the holes, sand down and primer. Originally i wanted to GRP the roof onto this upstand, but with the difficulties presented with GRPing onto an aluminium roof, i'm taking the gamble that using good flexible adhesives to help attach the timbers to the roof as well asfixing and clamping the roof between both timbers i reckon i'll be good. This area will onyl be exposed when the roof is up. I'll also seal around the timber with whatever they've used to seal between the roof panels, it seems to accept the paint very well. I have no idea how the timber will accept the paint, but i'll primer it first. A side note on the phenolic ply as i'm using it in a few places on the build. I typically use Buffalo Board which is a brand of phenolic plywood. it is made with Birch play and rated at about BB/B ( BB/A is the highest and used in joinery work, especially where it's imperative to have a perfect finish and laminate ) some times it can be a little lower on some of the laminate sheets like shown here; This can look bad, but given the use of the plywood as a structural system, it's not a concern for me. Last week the local suppliers dropped off an 18mm sheet and with my mind elsewhere i cut it into the sections i wanted and carried on, but when i came to use it, it failed. teh strongest part of plywood is perpendicular to the laminated sheets. This gives the maximum strength in fixing. However in this build i need the phenolic finish to be the facing side so it requries me to drill through the laminates. On the sheet i received last week, this showed the lower grade BB plywood i had by splitting along the laminate; When you compare this to the standard stuff i usually get you can see the difference. The lower section is Buffalo Board and drilled/countersunk near the end of the board, the upper is drilled and countersunk halfway along. The top one has failed. Also i noticed the top layer was delaminating under the protective cover; To sum up, if you are using timber for structural work, then buy the best you can. Although i paid the same price and the suppliers were happy to replace the sheet with the correct graded BB phenolic plywood, it pays to check your sheets. The cheaper sheet was ( apparently ) from Asia, which doesn't even prodcue BB plywood! Chinese knock off anyone?! The hinge bracket was made yesterday with the inferior plywood, so that is in the bin for fire kindling now and it was time to make another one up. If you've been following from the beginning, you will know that the GRP bedford roof is larger than the Landy roof with wise. It's about 65mm each side. I have sat and thought long and hard of how to get over this, spent some time chatting with people on here about doing it and with a local company who specialise in GRP repair and boat building, but i decided against cutting the roof and removing a section. Instead i have decided to ' extend ' the roof width at a few points to allow to the GRP roof to be unmolested. Once the awnings are fitted eother side of the Landy, then you'll probably not really notice the extra width. I'm pretty good with wood ( wood butcher by trade ) so i'm happy with this decision. Once i made this decision i went along with a tapered timber section which will be bolted through the roof and onto a similar one on the inside to give it some strength. I will probably change the set up inside to have this bolted through the roof and onto part of the box section framework that it is to take the linaer actuators and strengthen the whole hole in the roof. So the external frame mock up to take the hinges looks like this; I was looking at replacing this with a nylon beam which i could taper to match but the cost isn't cheap ( £185 for the rough size ) We're back to the phenolic which will be used to replace the piece of 3x2. I ripped down the ply into 40mm strips; Then plenty of glue and clamps and time to leave it to go off overnight; That's it for tonight Cheers
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    I IVA ed my ibex as M1 mainly because my brother in law lives in London. The N1 is supposed to be easier to pass because they test less. N1 should give you the old tax system but it may depend on engine. Why to you think you can't do M1 mine is essentially a utility wagon and I had no problems. I can strongly recommend Gillingham they were very fair and helpful. The two things I will say are go expecting to fail and come away with a list and read the manual cover to cover, he made it clear he could see I'd read the manual. I can pm you my number if you want to chat. Mike
  11. 1 point
    You would have thought the CLUE was in the name!?! SLIDERS!!! 😂
  12. 1 point
    Well, if you had fitted britpart master cylinder it could have failed while bleeding, like it did with my brake master a few years back.... How much of a refurb have you done? Bearmach are generally considered one of the better marques....
  13. 1 point
    The ring gap is far more important than the clearance in the groove. The damage on number 2 and your description are consistent with rings being fitted, not gapped correctly and lacking sufficient clearance. That clearance is vital when they heat and expand, or they deform, bind up, scuff the bore and damage the ring grooves, all of which can be seen on your cylinder 2. Some rings come "pre gapped", but not something I'd trust to luck. Shows the process nicely:
  14. 1 point
    With the melted sections being the same shape and in the same place it suggests injector problems and/or FIP timing/function issues ? If it was self fuelling damage it would be all over the piston and I think you would have felt the impact of it driving - it's like NO2 on full chat , there are rarely small self fuelling events... cheers Steve b

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