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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/03/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Success! We got it lined up perfectly first time, on bulkhead bolt straight in and then the other needed a ratchet strap to pull the foot in by 2mm. All the rear cross member bolts then lined up exactly. Really pleased 😁
  2. 2 points
    I got hold of some broken kiln pieces and managed to do it as you suggested @Stellaghost and just got it red enough to move @Bowie69. It wouldn’t move much but just enough. Thanks for the advice both.
  3. 2 points
    Just to be clear - you don't have to choose one or another. By tapping into the wires in the location mentioned above, you can have two types of trailer plug fitted at the same time, as I do. Any half decent sparkie could do the job in half an hour. Bound to be cheaper than those expensive adaptors and easier to use too.
  4. 1 point
    Last october i picked up a webasto thermo top V brand new for about £100. This is much cheaper than most thermotop's are selling for second hand. The whole job, all in was probably about £200 with all new parts, but could probably be done cheaper by shopping around. I spent a while doing some research and bought the rest of the bits like a timer and the proper fuel pump, pipes etc. Now that the warmer weathers here i decided to get round to fitting it all The main worry about this burner unit is that every search that you do on google tells you not to buy one because it's impossible to make it work due to it using can-bus signals. Anyway i decided to take up the challenge .. and it turned out to be fairly simple afterall. I suppose it always is when you have the knowledge. These heaters are fitted to disco3's so there will probably be a few starting to turn up in the scrappy's. If anyone else is interested in doing this mod then let me know and i'll do some pic's and an electrical diagram.. Now back to my warm cab to find something else to play with
  5. 1 point
    I recently bought a secondhand Hannibal roof rack. Where the gutter clamps pass back up through the side arms, to be pulled up on their threaded rods, there are M6 grub screws which act against the square section of those rods, just below the threaded part. The previous owner had never used the grub screws because they were tight, stainless into the aluminium. I released five of the six easily with just a little heat on the aluminium but one couldn't be operated as there was a rusty, snapped-off hex in there, flush with the surface of the grub screw. I realised that I couldn't do anything as it's a hard hex metal stuck in a less-hard stainless grub-screw, in a soft aluminium base. So I looked for a spark erosion place. Amazingly, I found one in a hamlet just a few miles away. I've driven past dozens of times over the years and had no idea that it was there. It turns out that in a small building, in pristine cleanliness, there's a one man business that has a whole host of high precision CNC tooling including wire erosion to very close tolerances and he is a very busy man. The guy said he'd have a go and I waited a few weeks for him to have time. The bulkiness of the part meant that the machine's coolant bath had to be opened and he could only use the nozzles to direct coolant onto the piece and this limited the power. However with a lot of effort to clamp an awkward piece, he set it up and sparked through and preserved the thread too. I thought I'd post the two pictures that I have.
  6. 1 point
    Yep - i started to type a post on it yesterday but I think its for electronically controlled fuelling systems. When i looked closer it has no actuator mechanism for controlling the FIP arm throttle linkage arm so I dont think it would work on a tdi? (Unless i am missing something?) I dropped these guys a line https://www.apollomotorhomes.com/index.php?CurrentCat=93 as they seem to sell the MS700 but there is very little detail on their pages so its unclear what the packs come with. I will update when they get back to me
  7. 1 point
    Hi snagger I have to main reasons for it. I will be using a different AC unit than the land rover ones as they impossible to buy locally and better models have been developed since Another reason it that I have available to me and 180 amp alternator and I did some calculation the pas pump draws about 40 amps at full load so i will have plenty of power for the ancillaries while also theoretically losing less horse power in the process The last advantage is the electric pump has a Yaw and Load sensor allowing me to adjust the amount of assist i want from it something i cannot do in a normal pulley pump. So i can change the feel depending on the road or requirement . I can go full series impossible to steer to fiat 500 They might not be reason enough but I decide to give it a try if all fails i can still convert it back to a normal pump
  8. 1 point
    That's handy to know. It doesn't seem like a bad price and even if they are just genuine parts, they have got the kit together with everything needed. Being a 110 - i would like to do the rear doors as well (mainly so I can open windows for the dogs from the front). I will look into the parts. Presumably if I look at LRCat and follow the TD5 section it should have the parts necessary.
  9. 1 point
    What Bowie said - flux cored wire for very cheap MIG machines (Machine Mart's worst) or maaaaybe if you absolutely must MIG outdoors on a windy day. You can run flux cored wire in a "gassed" MIG, just turn the gas off and change the wire. Normal MIG is nicer and yes you can notice the difference between CO2 and proper Argon/CO2 mix (Argoshield etc.) If you watch @Shackleton's YouTube videos you can see how his welding changes as he moves from a crappy old welder and flux-cored wire, to gas, and to a better welder.
  10. 1 point
    Not in cab in the rear of load area in the corner below the small window to right of rear door.
  11. 1 point
    Think of it like an arc welder rod, turned inside out, stretched and wound into a drum. If you didn't get that, it is also known as flux cored, the shield is created by the flux as you jam wire into the weld pool. Nasty way to do things with bodywork for sure, but in a pinch it can work, and better results on thicker material. Also handy if welding outside a lot as the flux doesn't get blown away like gas. Proper gas mig (I prefer argon co2 mix) is better in just about every way.
  12. 1 point
    So I started off dismantling the 2A . I m very happy with so far no rust spots found and wow this is easy to dismantle no haynes manual nothing find a bolt remove it and something comes off I Started of mocking up and making the parts for the Power Steering install : This is VW polo electric PAS pump from a early 2k polo This is defender rack and it will connect to the P38 Box I had to shorten the range rover mid shaft at the the BREAKAGE point i basically cut most of the rod out contoured it the same and reattached it. I will be welding it in place to make sure its super safe. This the chassis plate to attach the P38 I modified the side connector thing and added a metal bracket to securely attach the column to it using the factory mounting I cut the bulkhead connector so i can fit a pearch for the PAS Pump I found a timing gear the i can make perfectly round a bit of recycling I attached a male and female jubilee clips so i can take the pump out easily if needed and it should securely keep it in place. I will be adding a top strap later to make sure it doesnt move, I will be putting a soft rubber base to damped the noise Here it is all installed and welded up pretty happy with this banged it out in 2 days . The nice thing is with this setup I can technically dry stir without starting the vehicle and another advantages being isolated from the motor I can make all the lines hard making them leak proof for years. I also leaved room for a bigger alternator and the AC condenser and They are dirt cheap. Electric car all have these type of PAS pumps so the spares can only get bigger.
  13. 1 point
    Yes i have considered it, and it is the right way to go but the cost of owning a Defender in Malta in prohibitive of my budget. The Series are easier to acquire here and easier to maintain in term road licence and insurance. I like hacking and making thing personal but i do not in any way want to make a defender from a series. But make a Series just more livable on modern roads . Hey Mike here the pics that broke from my original post Here is my Mini transformation she is my pride and joy but it was bitch to bring back : Now back to Land Rovers
  14. 1 point
    A little more progress this weekend sees the front suspension back together and the front callipers assembled with pads and new pins. I have also put a couple of coats of paint on the fuel tank and steering box I then thought I would remove the loom from the old chassis. Cue some swearing and I was puzzled why it was stuck. I cut the top off a section of chassis and found the cause When I fitted the rear crossmember a few years ago I threaded the loom through a tennis ball to prevent it getting damaged from the welding. It worked perfectly by the looks of it. Just totally forgot I did that.
  15. 1 point
    Got it done ... Decided to put it here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry385417 so that i can find it again if someone asks again in future.

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