Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/05/2020 in all areas

  1. It is alive 😀 I have just done a nice and varied 30 mile trip up hill and down dale (in beautiful weather - blue skies above the mists). I chose some reasonable hills and there have been plenty of gear changes so hopefully a good bit of variable engine speed. On initial cranking with the solenoid disconnected, the oil pressure didn't rise enough to switch the warning lamp off. After four decent cranks and the lamp still on, I re-connected and cranked one more time to fill the injector pipes. I had thought that I'd see diesel spirting from the tops of the injectors but the pipes were
    6 points
  2. It's very easy to add a 7 pin socket alongside the nato. The loom from the dash/fusebox pops up in the rear corner as described, and the wires connect to lucas 2/4/6 way connectors. The O/S lights, the short loom to the nearside rear lights/fuel tank and trailer sockets connect to these. You may find that with trailer wiring already some of the lucas connectors are full and you may need a couple of larger ones (think halfords sell em) Just feed the trailer socket wire up into the corner, connect wires as follows: Yellow to green/red Blue to red/yellow White to black (eart
    3 points
  3. Just completed a total of 101 miles today. It takes some time to do this around here as I chose all the little roads to ensure lots of gear changes and varying engine speeds. We’ve driven the length and breadth of the White Peak. Everything seems good. There’s no smoke and the engine feels and sounds fine. I haven’t been too harsh going up the hills and hope these few miles have been a good start. I’m using Millers Running in oil supplied through Turner Engineering and they say change it in no more than 500 miles. I therefore need a couple more day trips! Thank you to everyone
    2 points
  4. Excellent & you have the satisfaction of knowing its done to your liking
    2 points
  5. You mean me? Nah, feast your eyes on some fluffy kittens instead 😁
    2 points
  6. I recently bought a secondhand Hannibal roof rack. Where the gutter clamps pass back up through the side arms, to be pulled up on their threaded rods, there are M6 grub screws which act against the square section of those rods, just below the threaded part. The previous owner had never used the grub screws because they were tight, stainless into the aluminium. I released five of the six easily with just a little heat on the aluminium but one couldn't be operated as there was a rusty, snapped-off hex in there, flush with the surface of the grub screw. I realised that I couldn't do anything
    1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. I think I may have struck it lucky assuming they are wired in correctly. just traced the already coloured wires and they lead to this..... I'm hoping just a simple join to the new socket will do the job. Never actually tested the towing electrics 🙏
    1 point
  9. Great work, it has made me a little frustrated that I'm away with work whilst my 19J is sat at home in bits and I can't put it back together for a few weeks
    1 point
  10. Ooooh SD1, I really want one and yet I really don't want to have to weld it up Can't see an SD1 without seeing this episode;
    1 point
  11. It may use a bit of oil initially, but that should reduce with use. I'd just keep an eye on the level.
    1 point
  12. They made an album about it
    1 point
  13. I was in China recently visiting tool making companies with a colleague. This mould produces plastic pallets. The gantry that lifts it was marked 40 tonne.
    1 point
  14. We've finally broken him...fetch the dried frog pills, quickly!
    1 point
  15. Shove some 35" tyres under there and take it off-road
    1 point
  16. Bit of an update, hopefully solved.... At the weekend I changed the FPR, bleed valve etc in the fuel line at the oil filter block and replaced crank sensor again, although it didn't look too soiled this time. I then took it for a long drive to get it all warmed up and to a point where I could replicate the problem. After 35 miles I got a total cut, MIL light immediately on but dead engine.... Coasted to a hat, luckily in Lay-By..... Waited, started and it failed again soon after. I swapped in my spare ECU (Codes already learned for this purpose, so only a 2 minute job)
    1 point
  17. I can confirm these are bomb proof https://www.heavy-duty-designs.co.uk/downloads/Universal 4x4 Pick Up.pdf has them in our vans for years and never replaced them and they get all sorts on thme including screwdrivers sticking in them, hot food/drink, paint, oil, glue and are fart resistant 👍
    1 point
  18. So I just found somewhere to drop this nice little engine:
    1 point
  19. I suspect those kittens are more fit for purpose than the pretender will ever be , and will probably live longer ......... You are so bad Steve Steve b
    1 point
  20. I'm sure someone has a diagram but I just worked out which pin in the plug did what on another car and made my own. Every wire is colour coded and you can get that from a Haynes manual or similar (maybe I'll try to find it after work, if you can't). Then it's just a question of cutting each existing wire and joining in the wire for the new plug. Easiest way is to use a screw block connector, or you could twist and solder if you're good at that stuff. It really is that easy (though, in my case, the wires had been painted, which didn't help!). Mounting is a bit harder, depending on how
    1 point
  21. Yes i have considered it, and it is the right way to go but the cost of owning a Defender in Malta in prohibitive of my budget. The Series are easier to acquire here and easier to maintain in term road licence and insurance. I like hacking and making thing personal but i do not in any way want to make a defender from a series. But make a Series just more livable on modern roads . Hey Mike here the pics that broke from my original post Here is my Mini transformation she is my pride and joy but it was bitch to bring back : Now back to Land Rover
    1 point
  22. i have treesliders on my 3 door 110 , they bolt to the bulkhead bracket at the front , and at the (in my case) unused chassis outrigger just in front of the rear wheel , you have to remove the aluminium sill panels and they bolt up easy ...
    1 point


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy