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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Good point. I tend to use cored wire for that sort of thing. Not as neat but less hassle, other than regular use of a wire brush. Also, for learning, it removes one variable, which isn't a bad thing. I'm not a great welder. I mostly weld 2nd hand steel and my visor is from an arc welder and too dark. I have a few other excuses stored away...
  2. 3 points
    We have all made a conscious choice to use our time to hold a discussion on the internet about a car (of all things) that none of us will likely own. For 84 pages. There might be far bigger reasons why LR are avoiding us as a customer base.
  3. 3 points
    100% I be unhappy about such an Elise. An Elise has nothing to do with lap times and designing a new car with that focus would be completely missing the point of the vehicle. It is all about the drive, feel, lightweight, steering and responsiveness. Something you simply can’t achieve with a “different” type of vehicle. This new Defender is exactly that problem. Not really sure what the nonsense is you are talking about carbs. Ffs I don’t think a single Defender ever had them. True to it’s heritage would be easy. Just make a modern version of the out going model. It’s not hard. Jeep have done it twice with the Wrangler in the past 15 years. The current JL Wrangler is supremely comfortable, speedy and a pleasant place to be. At least as nice as a D4 or even L322. Maybe not as plush, but just as nice. And with all of the modern gizmos. Yet it retains the classic styling queues dating back to the 1940s. Has live axles, body on frame and is designed as an off roader that has been made nice on road. Rather than an on roader that has been given some off road capability. The Wrangler sells in HUGE numbers too. And while a tad pricey in the UK. Starts for under $30k in the US. Mercedes also have kept true their heritage with the G-Wagen. And clearly sells well enough for them to keep updating it. And of course the Suzuki Jimny. A brilliant update on another classic model. 100% modern, yet still 100% true to its heritage and a proper 4x4. Which again world wide seems to be selling very well and is a desirably commodity. It will be interesting to see what the forthcoming Ford Bronco will be like. I suspect far truer to it’s roots than the Pretender is.
  4. 2 points
    You’re more persistent-aggressive I’d say. So don’t worry about looking passive 👍🏻
  5. 2 points
    I'd vote 0.8mm wire too, your welder may very likely not be designed to feed wire slow enough for 1.0mm. 0.6mm is a PITA and will birds-nest up if there's a blockage, only really useful for very thin stuff but 0.8mm will do for 200A+ Grinding the welds back is less useful than cutting a cross-section to see the penetration, or just hitting it with a B.F. Hammer.
  6. 2 points
    And rerun the same issues over and over again. A LR4x4 Groundhog Day.
  7. 2 points
    Yeah that’s not penetrating very well , what amp is your welder ? What wire thickness are you using , what amp have you got the welder turned up to ?
  8. 2 points
    Why not when all they need to do is make a decent vehicle that people want to buy. JLR isn't that small and regardless of size, it could certainly have built a design with expansion in mind. The D7 platform is a light duty passenger car construction which has no heavy duty components at all in it. Every single part is no stronger than any executive saloon. Look at the tiny diffs, CV's and half shafts, despite the tow rating and marketing, none of the components are any more suited to heavy towing than a BMW, Audi or Merc. The same 8 speed ZF box is used in them all anyway now. Why didn't they invest in a new platform? The D7 is 10 years old anyway. A simple go anywhere vehicle shouldn't be expensive to make. When people can remind you that every single utility land cruiser, Nissan patrol or shogun ever made still has larger stronger diffs and shafts than the latest Land Rover maybe it is time to rethink the platform? They could have started with the defender chassis any time in the last 30 years!! Toyota by comparison: There's people passionate about their product, can JLR not do the same? Toyota sold its 10,000,000th land cruiser last year,The 70 series sold around 120,000 units last year, I read earlier in this topic that the Jeep Wrangler sells in similar numbers just in North America alone. I doubt the New Defender will take a single 70 series sale as they're such different vehicles for such different tasks. People forget the Land cruiser heritage, it's now been in production longer than the Defender, has kept closer to its roots and as I said before, ought to be the natural nemesis of the Defender but it just isn't, the defender has turned into a parody of itself. Just to echo @Chicken Drumstick, I think he nailed it i his last posts. The Jeep has heritage by the bucketload which also sells cars. The Suzuki Jimny also has an unbroken heritage going back to the 70's, the G wagon, the same. Clutching at straws for the lineage, whatever happened to the rights of Santana to build and develop land rovers after IVECO took them over? Is Iran still building dodgy copies? Besides the greater similarity to the Yeti than the old defender, the New Defender actually has a lot more in common with the Skoda Yeti a few posts ago than it does with the old defender. Sad but true. I bet if there was a three way competition between the Yeti, the new Defender and the old one in the motoring press, the yeti would place higher than the old defender in almost every category they would use. The Yeti has hill descent control, abs, esp, etc does that mean it could replace an old defender? Unfortunately because of how defenders are marketed nowadays, it probably could for most buyers now. I doubt many aid agencies, mining companies or farmers are lining up to buy a new one despite the staged marketing pictures a few posts ago. Remember no customers have their new defenders yet, anything you see in the press until folks start taking delivery is staged and therefore not impartial. People didn't buy the old one because LR stopped investing in it and it ended up garbage in comparison to the competition. What actually beggars belief is that despite how terrible they were, people did still buy them!! It's those people for whom the Japanese pickups weren't suitable that have just been alienated and dropped like a stone by JLR, that sucks. I still want to buy British (not sure why now), it's time the project grenadier were making some noise. I expect the vehicles to compliment rather than compete with each other.
  9. 2 points
    Often called stitching, it can be as little as one "tack" at a certain point, move a long way away to another section of the joint, put one tack there, repeat in a few different places, then come back to the 1st tack and add another - very slow and tedious join-the-dots style that will test your welder's gas solenoid reliability
  10. 2 points
  11. 1 point
    Surely LR already have a platform...... the outgoing Defender. Absolutely nothing wrong with the suspension on them or how they rode or handled. The only bit that was old, was the labour intensive welded chassis. And the multi section mechano body. A Hydroformed chassis to similar specs as a D1/2 or P38 with suspension from any of these (maybe with the option of air for higher end models) and links to live axles. Which would have been easy to solve, just buy Dana 44's like Jeep and others do. I'm lead to believe Dana had been building and supplying the Rover axles to JLR for a long time anyhow, so the relationship was/is already there. So all they'd need is a body tub to fit on it, which could easily have been a mild modification of the D7 platform. Considering other car makers of all sizes are able to build specific platforms, I can see no logical, sane, rational or financial reason why LR couldn't. The only reason I can think of, is purely marking and product placement.
  12. 1 point
    Problem with straight CO2 is that its a "cold" gas. It cools the weld and bead more than Argoshield, so it can cause a higher bead and less penetration, especially on thinner materials and less amps. Compounded by the 1mm wire which needs more heat to melt it. Not so much a problem if you are using battleship plate with excessive amps, so don't be a tighta**e and use the proper stuff. Makes the world of difference ! Shame you are not nearer as you could have borrowed mine to try Best I ever had was 75/25 % mix. Gave lovely smooth welds, but I don't think you can get it any more. For car panel thickness, use 0.6 wire. You can use it on material up to 3mm, but can be a PITA if you set the wire drive rollers too tight. When you set the tension ……. with the gas off so not to waste it...… have the tension set to almost nothing, then pull the gun trigger. The drive motor will be turning, but should NOT be feeding any wire. Keep the trigger on, and gradually tighten the tension adjuster until the wire starts to feed, then add another 1/8th of a turn and no more. That's all you need. Much more than that will cause the wire to "birdsnest" easily. Thicker wire is a bit more forgiving, but you should always aim for "just enough" wire drive. As has been said 0.8mm wire would be better for what you are currently doing
  13. 1 point
    Oh so much want SD1’s are ace , my parents had an early Vitesse , my mum used it as her daily driver 🤪
  14. 1 point
    🤤DOH ! just checked the bottle and you are correct sir ! learnt summet every day
  15. 1 point
    Carpal tunnel syndrome, small local anesthetic surgery but takes a while to heal. I have it in both wrists but they will only do one at a time as I need the other to wipe my arse with. Their words, not mine!
  16. 1 point
    How about trying not to be so aggressive full stop? There's no competition on here, we should all be behaving like mates down a pub, not someone trying to score points off one another. Everyone else seems to manage it, why not you?
  17. 1 point
    To those of you wondering, I'm currently busy making it MOT-able, very close now though:
  18. 1 point
    Just look for rent-free welding gas near you, half the cost is getting the bottle to where you want it.
  19. 1 point
    Do we have to refer to our Defenders (still prefer to call them 90,110 or 130 tbh, or even better ninety , one ten , one twenty seven ? ) as Defender Classics now ? Just asking for a friend
  20. 1 point
    True. The options open to JLR were to saturate that market or expand beyond that market. They choose the former, most real defender owners would prefer they went for the latter. But, as we all know, defender owners are a fairly soft lot, compared to proper Landrover owners, so they'll be happy enough with the Slovak defender. In time.
  21. 1 point
    You posted whilst I was writing my essay 😂 dint go co2/argon mix , go pure argon either light or universal (you will understand when you buy it ) out of interest what are you having done on your wrist ? I’m currently seeing the specialist about my left wrist as I have a huge ganglion (spellcheck ?) that needs cutting out , that’s what a lifetime (so far) of machinery driving does for you !
  22. 1 point
    Echo the above from Ozzy. Also, welding two bits of box together like that bring a LOAD of steel together that you have to heat up to get penetration -have a think about what the cross section looks like... Better to have simple plate butt welds or T welds to practice on with single thicknesses of steel.. Last weld was definitely better, 0.8 wire will help a lot though, as clearly you are just adding MORE steel to heat up!
  23. 1 point
    I think most buyers of the current Land Rover range buy them because they’re trendy , not all but most
  24. 1 point
    Wire is too thick , u want 0.8 mm for the 4mm angle iron and even better 0.6 for the thinner material although you would get away with using 0.8 on both and even using 0.6 on both although my advice is 0.8 ,that’s what’s causing the lack of penetration .The wire is too thick and simply building on top of the joint rather than melting it , all three materials, the two pieces and the wire need to melt and create a pool that you push along . I use 0.8 mm wire on 1mm material right up to 10mm material ( with a good V ground into the pieces I’m joining ) although I should be using 1mm wire ideally above 8mm material but constantly changing is a pita . Change your wire to 0.8 , you can leave the 1mm tips in the gun (less heat build up in the tip and less seized wire in the tips !) . You will have to readjust your wire speed and amps again (sorry) with the thinner wire . I’m guessing the 1 2 3 4 is amp adjustment so not a lot of adjustment there really , it’s a pretty basic mig set tbh (no offence) , my mig set was bought for me second hand by my dad 23 years ago (serious sentimental value) when he discovered I had learnt to weld at work , saved him a fortune on the farm !,is 200 amp and has nearly infinite adjustment on the Amps (I’m not trying to show off , honestly !) With the 0.8 wire : to weld the thin material you would need between 60 and 100 amps, material quality makes a massive difference btw the thicker material anywhere up to 150 amps joining thick to thin materials obviously somewhere in between wire speed you will just need to adjust until it feels right , too fast you should feel the wire pushing the gun back and get an excess build up of weld in the bead too slow and your weld bead will be too small and your wire will keep burning back to the tip (this is where using a larger tip helps ) Also what gas are you using ? I use argoshield universal (due to different material thicknesses and only one welder) Thing is with welding you can either do it or not ,I’m not trying to be big headed or clever but it’s just a fact , I learnt my welding working on hire plant where we had to fix everything and I can weld the thinnest of materials with the mig (because we had to !) , I always said give me enough wire and enough time and I could build a bridge (I’m genuinely not trying to be big headed ) The penetration is the most important thing , worry about it being pretty once you’ve mastered making it right . Kero posting and I will keep trying to help .
  25. 1 point
    Yes... But the whole point of a discussion forum.... is to.... discuss.
  26. 1 point
    Thing is , if u don’t like the new one or can’t afford it , buy an old model , simple
  27. 1 point
    As a mildly interesting contrast in perspective, I'm just about to fly out to Joburg to prep a car for a car for a long trip into one of the national parks in Zimbabwe - I'd shipped my old 110 back to the UK so rather than use my 50 year old S2a 109 station wagon I arranged to buy a 25 year old 110, was set to fly out in a couple of days with a huge and very heavy bag of spares to give it a quick overhaul of the essentials and replace the usual broken/worn items. The deal fell through, so now I've decided to have a classic safari in the 109 instead and enjoy the slower pace, noise and smells. So now I don't need to take: An air filter, power steering belt, lift pump, drop arm ball joint, hub flanges, trailing arm bushes, heater matrix, a box of plastic lock buttons, latches, handles, throttle cable, master/slave cylinders, turbo hoses and a host of other things that you need to solve the rattles, clonks and electrical gremlins on a Defender, that were engineered in after the rugged simplicity of the series models. The spares bag is reduced to a few sets of seals and a fan belt 😆
  28. 1 point
    IMO EGT should be fitted before playing with any tuning on a diesel.... its all too easy for stuff to get a bit hot if you make a mistake. Have a chat with @NRS91 He's an experienced chap with mechanical diesel tuning both on the LR Tdis and also the cummins lumps. He also sells a decent boost pin amongst other things, one with the proper material properties unlike a lot of them on the market.
  29. 1 point
    Tanuki, your last post highlights why many here, including myself, are not a big fan of the new Defender. It's (well) designed to get you from A to B, overcoming most obstacles, but you'll not get the driving experience or adaptability that got most of us to buy a Land Rover. In that way, there's not enough difference, apart from some styling cues, with the Discovery to warrant the name Defender. Unless you're after bragging rights. And rightfully so, but a Land Rover was never like an Elise. It was never designed to impress the driver, just to get him (almost) anywhere with whatever he needed to bring. The iconic status only came much later, I'd say LR only started to exploit it with the Puma (which got a lot of stick for using Transit components) and now with the new Defender. I do want to take the opportunity to point out the advantages of independent suspension. Yesterday we went greenlaning with a Defender 130 (on 255/85R16 MTs), a P38 (on 265/75R16 Simex copies), an L322 (on 255/60R18 ATs) and my own P38 (on 245/70R16 ATs). The L322 had no difficulty keeping up, even with an unexperienced driver. On the contrary, I got stuck twice in deep ruts and even the Defender bottomed out on the axles, while the L322 made it through. I'm sure we could find terrain where a solid axle would have some advantage, but it's simply not correct to claim independent suspension wont work offroad. These kind of tractor tracks are what you'd likely encounter while working the field (literaly), or when travelling. And even a large part of most pay & play sites. And if an almost 20 year old L322 can cope, I have no doubt the new Defender will make light work of it. Which brings us back to the original idea behind the Land Rover: to get people and equipment to where they need or want to go. With the added factor that most people, apart from a few diehards on forums like this, want to do this in comfort, without having to think of anything apart from which music to select on the touchscreen. Did I mention I hate touchscreens? I still have a cassete player in the Range, but I certainly don't expect any manufacturer to offer one in a new car. Likewise, the new Defender will not be built to the desires of some of us, but it will likely appeal to a much larger market. People who will actually spend a considerable amount of money on a lifestyle or luxury working vehicle, instead of keeping old barges running. Filip
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Some ten or so years ago I had an Alisport inter-cooler fitted, and the fueling was "adjusted" at the same time. Fortunately I had already fitted an EGT because I very soon found that exhaust gas temperatures could very quickly, like in a few seconds, shoot up to above 750 Deg C. when on full throttle but down at 2000 rpm. ie working hard. Yes, please get an EGT gauge before you adjust fueling. A gauge is far cheaper than a new set of exhaust valves. Since exhaust gas temperature can change so very quickly I have replaced the fuel gauge in the dash cluster with the EGT gauge, so that it is right in front of me, and I have relocated the fuel gauge to a Mud dash top panel. I don't need to look at my fuel gauge more than once an hour, so out of the direct line of sight is no problem. Mike
  32. 1 point
    Problem solved... With fire! Didn't warp and I just cleaned them up with the pressure washer and then shot blaster. One here still needs to go through the shot blast cabinet
  33. 1 point
    Indeed. Unfortunately my line of work doesn’t make it any cheaper No air nailer, but I have an impact driver and a box of nice stainless steel screws.
  34. 1 point
    A bit of perspective is needed here. If all you want is a four wheel drive station wagon and don't have plans to own it for decades or maintain or modify it yourself, you could view the new Defender as a replacement for the old one. If you want a pickup, flat deck, van or cab-and-chassis for your special vehicle, it absolutely isn't! I am convinced they did their market research and decided the profits would be with the station wagon, to the extent it wasn't worth pursuing any kind of utility vehicle ("suburban" utilities don't count!). So they use the name for a new range of family cars and some people will love it, while many traditional buyers will feel badly let down and be, understandably, upset. This disappointment is exacerbated by the all-in move to huge complexity and such impracticalities as a touch screen control centre (eyes off the road, hand getting rocked by the rough track, must be near impossible). Land Rover could have catered for their former market easily, as Suzuki proved with the fast-selling new Jimny, but the cost-benefit analysis they did stopped them. I think everyone can accept the new Defender for what it is. It's what it isn't that is the problem and that is exactly why a proportion of people on a Land Rover forum are very unhappy. Why would you not expect that? This has been said many times in previous pages but it was worth summarising again...
  35. 1 point
    On the assumption that all the seals, diff breathers, waterproof rated wiring etc. are all doing their job, this is a scenario in which the new Defender will be clearly better than it's leak-prone predecessor! The extra half ton of weight could help too. To be fair though, I did something similar several times in one day in a 1987 Range Rover, without a drop of water getting in anywhere and no sign of any water damage years later. Water resistance has been possible for decades. IF something did go wrong, however, I'm sure I'd hate the electric windows and handbrake even more when trying to recover it. Great picture, by the way. The first I've seen that make the vehicle look genuine.
  36. 1 point
    Well I have been doing bits on this on and off but its finally finished , yeaaaaaaaaaaaah one project down a few to go . Right so welded the rack together and legs then made some mounts for the front light bar , test fit , then wanted some slim line LED lights on the side so when camping you can have some light down each side and found these on eBay weren't very expensive at all . made up some backing plates and welded them on , and zinc rich primered it , then painted it black this is the best pic I've got . Then finally this weekend I've fitted it , I'm well pleased how it turned out and I've no doubt I'll upgrade the design along the way just need to wire the lights in and it's job done . cheers Ian
  37. 1 point
    In between the rain this afternoon I unpacked my delivery of of lovely larch cladding fresh from the sawmill. Smells so good!
  38. 1 point
    Finally was able to collect it yesterday, a 240km drive each way in very stormy and wet weather 😁 got it pushed indoors and left as is. So after work today I'll try and get it running. Then, when I have life I'll go through it and ser just how bad the rust is 🙈
  39. 1 point
    there's a garden not far with me with 6! sd1's under covers.... all going to be restored.... one day..... been there 10 years to my certain knowledge.
  40. 1 point
    Any car, however uncool, does redeem itself a fair bit if it was built with a V8 engine. SD1s were a classic example of the styling of their time, rusted like nobody's business, had a pretty shocking choice of paint colours, yet had this awesome sounding engine. I've never driven one, but when we were young my mate's grandparents had a V8 Vanden Plas model, and I always looked forward to the rare occasions I got to ride in it
  41. 1 point
    I LOVE the SD 1 yes - had several
  42. 1 point
    So I just found somewhere to drop this nice little engine:
  43. 1 point
    This thread is the replacement of the LT77 gearbox in a 200TDi Disco with a remanufactured item supplied by Ashcroft Transmissions. The following instructions are for one person doing the work, so are understandably detailed and complex - the weight of the transmission assembly is beyond most peoples abilities to lift into position without specialist lifting equipment, so the transfer case and gearbox are removed as seperate units. Taking the weight of each seperately is also quite dangerous as you need to be lying directly under each one in order to remove/fit them, and there's a risk of either one falling on your face/chest if things go wrong. It's a lot easier to have at least a second pair of hands to do this work or at least a friend to help with the heavier side of things. There are a few pictures missing at the start - the customer decided to have a go himself, but got scared pretty quickly , so the gear knobs have been unscrewed, the mat removed, the switch panel popped out, and the centre console screws are out already. Two screws in front of the gear lever, 4 at the back under the tray mat, and the switch panel hanging out. Remove the 12mm pinch bolt and remove the gearstick shaft. Pull the handbrake on and remove the pin clip, release the handbrake and remove the pin that holds the cable to the lever. Pull the handbrake lever up this far (if you go beyond the ratchet teeth, the pawl will flip over and prevent you from reconnecting the cable when the job is finished without pushing it back with a screwdriver. If you want to you can twist/pull the hand brake shroud off and put it out of the way, but it doesn't tend to be in the way. Remove the foam insulating pad. Remove the metal plates around both the gear and transfer levers. There is a thin steel retainer that holds the rubber seal in place with pop rivets. Drill them out with a 4.5mm bit. With it out of the way, the top of the gearbox can be seen. The transfer lever housing doesn't come with the new gearbox, so it has to be removed. It's held to the top of the gearbox by 4x13mm bolts - they are different lengths, so make a note of their position when you remove them. There are two link rods that have to be disconnected - remove the clip and pin shown here - The pivot point has the same arrangement. Mark the second rod as shown and also the shaft so that it can be fitted in the same position. Slacken the 10mm pinch bolt and the the second rod can then be removed. Remove the 4x13mm bolts and the transfer lever assembly can be removed. Unplug the two wires from the reverse switch - it doesn't matter which way the wires are connected. Undo the gearbox breather (15mm) make sure you retrieve the copper sealing washers. Exactly the same with the transfer box breather. Unplug the diff lock switch - again it doesn't matter which connections the two wires go on. Both breather banjo bolts are identical to each other, so no need to keep them seperate. The pivot point has to be removed - it retains the breather pipes. There's an adjusting/lock nut on it, try not to move it on the thread. Lift the breather pipes and wiring out of the transmission tunnel hole and tie them out of the way. Remove the transfer case drain plug and drian the oil. Same with the gearbox. The gearbox drains quite slowly, so while it's doing that, disconnect the handbrake cable. Remove the split pin and pin. Undo the cable locknuts with 2 x 19mm spanners. You need plenty of room under the truck, so rather than disconnecting the prop at just the brake drum - remove it entirely. 4x14mm nuts on the handbrake drum and 4x14mm nuts and bolts at the diff. The front prop can just be disconnected from the transfer case end and tied out of the way. Gearbox mounts now - remove the following bolts/nuts Speedo cable next. 10mm socket on an extension bar and retrieve the fork which will come loose. exhaust clamp next - should be 2x13mm nuts. tap the join with a hammer to break the seal if necessary. Also undo the exhaust mount, just a 13mm bolt. The exhaust will now hang down and access to the transmission will be improved. Raise the gearbox far enough to remove the mount assembly. Remove the 5 nuts/bolts either side that holds the gearbox crossmember to the chassis rails. There are now just 5 x 17mm bolts and 1 x 17mm nut holding the transfer case in place on the gearbox. Remove all the bolts first. Undo the reamining nut - making sure that the stud doesn't come out with it. Once the nut is removed there is nothing holding the transfer box in place apart from the gearbox input shaft. Lie under the transfer case, take the weight of it and carefully slide it towards the rear of the vehicle. There's bareley enough clearance for it to clear the input shaft and the balance of the case is very awkward. Lower it to the ground and remove it from under the vehicle. Gearbox now. Remove the jack, remove the two 13mm bolts that secure the clutch slave cylinder and tuck it up on top of the chassis rail with the pipe still connected. Bell housing nuts now - all are 17mm and then 4x15mm bolts at the bottom. Slacken one of the nuts on the side, but leave it loose on the thread. Using extension bars to get at the awkward ones - remove the rest. Lay on your back, support the gearbox with your knees and remove the final nut. Slide the gearbox backwards a few inches to clear the clutch and lower it to the ground. Various parts of the old gearbox have to be transferred onto the new one - bellhousing, transfer lever rod pivot point, and a stud. The clutch is quite new, so I'll be reusing it after checking it's still ok. The old clutch fork has got the usual signs of excessive wear, so it'll be replaced with a reinforced item. The new box - straight out of the crate. The stud you have to swap over. Lock two bell housing nuts against each other on the thread and then unscrew it from the old gearbox. Use the same method to fit it to the new one. The bell housing is held to the gearbox by 6x19mm bolts. There are two different lengths, so make sure you make a note of their position. There are two locating dowels. there two new ones on the new gearbox, but make sure they aren't stuck in the bellhousing instead. The dowels in place on the new gearbox - the longer two bolts go through these. The new gearbox assembled. Remove the two slipper pads off the old clutch fork and clean them. Detach the operating rod from the clip. The new reinforced clutch fork. Put a blob of coppaslip or similar grease on the pivot point. Also where the slipper pads go. Dip the ball end of the pushrod in the same grease, attach a new clip, plus a cable tie to make sure the rod never comes off. Don't forget the little clip that holds the fork to the thrust bearing. A small amount on the pivot point inside the bellhousing as well. The thrust bearing guide too. Attach the thrust bearing with the small clip. Clutch inspection next. It's held to the flywheel by 6x13mm bolts - slacken them progressively if you may be using the clutch again. With the clutch off, carefully inspect the flywheel for damage, such as high spots (blue patches), or micro cracking - usually caused by clutch imbalance. Same with the plate and cover. The spigot bearing should also be checked. This one was loose and a new one is only about a quid, so this is how you replace it. Press the new one in with your hand, making sure it's nice and square, then carefully knock it in with a soft metal bar, such as alloy, or some hard wood. Make sure the clutch plate is this way round. Put the clutch assembly back on the flywheel - making sure the locating pins are through the holes in the clutch cover, then put the bolts in just a few turns. A centering tool makes things easy. I use a cut off input shaft to do it. Use the centering tool to keep it all in line and then tighten the bolts progressively and in a diagonal sequence. Once the bolts are tight, pull the tool out and slide it in again to make sure all is ok. Put the gearbox crossmember back on with just a couple of loose bolts either side. The engine will have levelled out when the transmission was removed, so jack up under the crank pulley to tip it again. Slide the gearbox under the truck, lay it on it's side and lift the back end up onto the crossmember. Slide it up until it's balanced on the crossmember, then turn it upright, support the back of it and slide it towards the engine nice and level.
  44. 0 points
    Ozzy, argoshield is CO2/argon mix, not straight argon.
  45. 0 points
  46. 0 points
    But if it deployed its optimised Diesel torque, electronics and transmission-technology to put up track-times just as good or better than a 'classic' not-even-clockwork-engined, un-intelligent-suspended, 2WD Elise? Would you still complain? I'm all in favour of using 21st-century stuff like ABS/traction-control/adaptive-suspension, automatic transmissions, variable-nozzle turbos and the like to make the driving-experience fast-and-easy. Part of me thinks that some people here would rather have a car that was 'true to its heritage' but would still need you to fiddle with a manual choke and spend minutes trying to get the thing to start if it was cold or wet, and then (if it started before the battery was flat) struggle with hopeless heater/demisters to clear the windscreen. OK, if you *want* that , it can be simulated in software. Normal people, however, will happily buy a car that they can jump into when it's -15C, turn the key and have it start in half-a-second, then engage the heated-screen/turn the aircon on, select 'Drive' on the transmission and go about their business for the day. OK, after collecting the kids from prep=-school, you may want to go and lug a trailer with their ponies in it... I'm happy to see cars develop to the point where they're 'domestic appliances'. Normal people don't expect to have to worry about 2WD/4WD levers, high/low ratios or diff-locks. Get in, sit down, and drive!

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