Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/2020 in all areas

  1. Good point. I tend to use cored wire for that sort of thing. Not as neat but less hassle, other than regular use of a wire brush. Also, for learning, it removes one variable, which isn't a bad thing. I'm not a great welder. I mostly weld 2nd hand steel and my visor is from an arc welder and too dark. I have a few other excuses stored away...
    3 points
  2. We have all made a conscious choice to use our time to hold a discussion on the internet about a car (of all things) that none of us will likely own. For 84 pages. There might be far bigger reasons why LR are avoiding us as a customer base.
    3 points
  3. 100% I be unhappy about such an Elise. An Elise has nothing to do with lap times and designing a new car with that focus would be completely missing the point of the vehicle. It is all about the drive, feel, lightweight, steering and responsiveness. Something you simply can’t achieve with a “different” type of vehicle. This new Defender is exactly that problem. Not really sure what the nonsense is you are talking about carbs. Ffs I don’t think a single Defender ever had them. True to it’s heritage would be easy. Just make a modern version of the out going model. It’s not ha
    3 points
  4. You’re more persistent-aggressive I’d say. So don’t worry about looking passive 👍🏻
    2 points
  5. I'd vote 0.8mm wire too, your welder may very likely not be designed to feed wire slow enough for 1.0mm. 0.6mm is a PITA and will birds-nest up if there's a blockage, only really useful for very thin stuff but 0.8mm will do for 200A+ Grinding the welds back is less useful than cutting a cross-section to see the penetration, or just hitting it with a B.F. Hammer.
    2 points
  6. And rerun the same issues over and over again. A LR4x4 Groundhog Day.
    2 points
  7. Yeah that’s not penetrating very well , what amp is your welder ? What wire thickness are you using , what amp have you got the welder turned up to ?
    2 points
  8. Why not when all they need to do is make a decent vehicle that people want to buy. JLR isn't that small and regardless of size, it could certainly have built a design with expansion in mind. The D7 platform is a light duty passenger car construction which has no heavy duty components at all in it. Every single part is no stronger than any executive saloon. Look at the tiny diffs, CV's and half shafts, despite the tow rating and marketing, none of the components are any more suited to heavy towing than a BMW, Audi or Merc. The same 8 speed ZF box is used in them all anyway now. Why didn't they
    2 points
  9. Often called stitching, it can be as little as one "tack" at a certain point, move a long way away to another section of the joint, put one tack there, repeat in a few different places, then come back to the 1st tack and add another - very slow and tedious join-the-dots style that will test your welder's gas solenoid reliability
    2 points
  10. Surely LR already have a platform...... the outgoing Defender. Absolutely nothing wrong with the suspension on them or how they rode or handled. The only bit that was old, was the labour intensive welded chassis. And the multi section mechano body. A Hydroformed chassis to similar specs as a D1/2 or P38 with suspension from any of these (maybe with the option of air for higher end models) and links to live axles. Which would have been easy to solve, just buy Dana 44's like Jeep and others do. I'm lead to believe Dana had been building and supplying the Rover axles to JLR for a long time anyhow
    1 point
  11. Problem with straight CO2 is that its a "cold" gas. It cools the weld and bead more than Argoshield, so it can cause a higher bead and less penetration, especially on thinner materials and less amps. Compounded by the 1mm wire which needs more heat to melt it. Not so much a problem if you are using battleship plate with excessive amps, so don't be a tighta**e and use the proper stuff. Makes the world of difference ! Shame you are not nearer as you could have borrowed mine to try Best I ever had was 75/25 % mix. Gave lovely smooth welds, but I don't think you can get it any more. For
    1 point
  12. Oh so much want SD1’s are ace , my parents had an early Vitesse , my mum used it as her daily driver 🤪
    1 point
  13. 🤤DOH ! just checked the bottle and you are correct sir ! learnt summet every day
    1 point
  14. Carpal tunnel syndrome, small local anesthetic surgery but takes a while to heal. I have it in both wrists but they will only do one at a time as I need the other to wipe my arse with. Their words, not mine!
    1 point
  15. How about trying not to be so aggressive full stop? There's no competition on here, we should all be behaving like mates down a pub, not someone trying to score points off one another. Everyone else seems to manage it, why not you?
    1 point
  16. To those of you wondering, I'm currently busy making it MOT-able, very close now though:
    1 point
  17. Just look for rent-free welding gas near you, half the cost is getting the bottle to where you want it.
    1 point
  18. Do we have to refer to our Defenders (still prefer to call them 90,110 or 130 tbh, or even better ninety , one ten , one twenty seven ? ) as Defender Classics now ? Just asking for a friend
    1 point
  19. True. The options open to JLR were to saturate that market or expand beyond that market. They choose the former, most real defender owners would prefer they went for the latter. But, as we all know, defender owners are a fairly soft lot, compared to proper Landrover owners, so they'll be happy enough with the Slovak defender. In time.
    1 point
  20. You posted whilst I was writing my essay 😂 dint go co2/argon mix , go pure argon either light or universal (you will understand when you buy it ) out of interest what are you having done on your wrist ? I’m currently seeing the specialist about my left wrist as I have a huge ganglion (spellcheck ?) that needs cutting out , that’s what a lifetime (so far) of machinery driving does for you !
    1 point
  21. Echo the above from Ozzy. Also, welding two bits of box together like that bring a LOAD of steel together that you have to heat up to get penetration -have a think about what the cross section looks like... Better to have simple plate butt welds or T welds to practice on with single thicknesses of steel.. Last weld was definitely better, 0.8 wire will help a lot though, as clearly you are just adding MORE steel to heat up!
    1 point
  22. I think most buyers of the current Land Rover range buy them because they’re trendy , not all but most
    1 point
  23. Wire is too thick , u want 0.8 mm for the 4mm angle iron and even better 0.6 for the thinner material although you would get away with using 0.8 on both and even using 0.6 on both although my advice is 0.8 ,that’s what’s causing the lack of penetration .The wire is too thick and simply building on top of the joint rather than melting it , all three materials, the two pieces and the wire need to melt and create a pool that you push along . I use 0.8 mm wire on 1mm material right up to 10mm material ( with a good V ground into the pieces I’m joining ) although I should be using 1mm wire ideally
    1 point
  24. Yes... But the whole point of a discussion forum.... is to.... discuss.
    1 point
  25. Thing is , if u don’t like the new one or can’t afford it , buy an old model , simple
    1 point
  26. As a mildly interesting contrast in perspective, I'm just about to fly out to Joburg to prep a car for a car for a long trip into one of the national parks in Zimbabwe - I'd shipped my old 110 back to the UK so rather than use my 50 year old S2a 109 station wagon I arranged to buy a 25 year old 110, was set to fly out in a couple of days with a huge and very heavy bag of spares to give it a quick overhaul of the essentials and replace the usual broken/worn items. The deal fell through, so now I've decided to have a classic safari in the 109 instead and enjoy the slower pace, noise and smells.
    1 point
  27. IMO EGT should be fitted before playing with any tuning on a diesel.... its all too easy for stuff to get a bit hot if you make a mistake. Have a chat with @NRS91 He's an experienced chap with mechanical diesel tuning both on the LR Tdis and also the cummins lumps. He also sells a decent boost pin amongst other things, one with the proper material properties unlike a lot of them on the market.
    1 point
  28. Tanuki, your last post highlights why many here, including myself, are not a big fan of the new Defender. It's (well) designed to get you from A to B, overcoming most obstacles, but you'll not get the driving experience or adaptability that got most of us to buy a Land Rover. In that way, there's not enough difference, apart from some styling cues, with the Discovery to warrant the name Defender. Unless you're after bragging rights. And rightfully so, but a Land Rover was never like an Elise. It was never designed to impress the driver, just to get him (almost) anywhere with whatever
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. Some ten or so years ago I had an Alisport inter-cooler fitted, and the fueling was "adjusted" at the same time. Fortunately I had already fitted an EGT because I very soon found that exhaust gas temperatures could very quickly, like in a few seconds, shoot up to above 750 Deg C. when on full throttle but down at 2000 rpm. ie working hard. Yes, please get an EGT gauge before you adjust fueling. A gauge is far cheaper than a new set of exhaust valves. Since exhaust gas temperature can change so very quickly I have replaced the fuel gauge in the dash cluster with the EGT gauge, so tha
    1 point
  31. Problem solved... With fire! Didn't warp and I just cleaned them up with the pressure washer and then shot blaster. One here still needs to go through the shot blast cabinet
    1 point
  32. Indeed. Unfortunately my line of work doesn’t make it any cheaper No air nailer, but I have an impact driver and a box of nice stainless steel screws.
    1 point
  33. A bit of perspective is needed here. If all you want is a four wheel drive station wagon and don't have plans to own it for decades or maintain or modify it yourself, you could view the new Defender as a replacement for the old one. If you want a pickup, flat deck, van or cab-and-chassis for your special vehicle, it absolutely isn't! I am convinced they did their market research and decided the profits would be with the station wagon, to the extent it wasn't worth pursuing any kind of utility vehicle ("suburban" utilities don't count!). So they use the name for a new range of family cars a
    1 point
  34. On the assumption that all the seals, diff breathers, waterproof rated wiring etc. are all doing their job, this is a scenario in which the new Defender will be clearly better than it's leak-prone predecessor! The extra half ton of weight could help too. To be fair though, I did something similar several times in one day in a 1987 Range Rover, without a drop of water getting in anywhere and no sign of any water damage years later. Water resistance has been possible for decades. IF something did go wrong, however, I'm sure I'd hate the electric windows and handbrake even more when trying to
    1 point
  35. Well I have been doing bits on this on and off but its finally finished , yeaaaaaaaaaaaah one project down a few to go . Right so welded the rack together and legs then made some mounts for the front light bar , test fit , then wanted some slim line LED lights on the side so when camping you can have some light down each side and found these on eBay weren't very expensive at all . made up some backing plates and welded them on , and zinc rich primered it , then painted it black this is the best pic I've got . Then final
    1 point
  36. In between the rain this afternoon I unpacked my delivery of of lovely larch cladding fresh from the sawmill. Smells so good!
    1 point
  37. Finally was able to collect it yesterday, a 240km drive each way in very stormy and wet weather 😁 got it pushed indoors and left as is. So after work today I'll try and get it running. Then, when I have life I'll go through it and ser just how bad the rust is 🙈
    1 point
  38. there's a garden not far with me with 6! sd1's under covers.... all going to be restored.... one day..... been there 10 years to my certain knowledge.
    1 point
  39. Any car, however uncool, does redeem itself a fair bit if it was built with a V8 engine. SD1s were a classic example of the styling of their time, rusted like nobody's business, had a pretty shocking choice of paint colours, yet had this awesome sounding engine. I've never driven one, but when we were young my mate's grandparents had a V8 Vanden Plas model, and I always looked forward to the rare occasions I got to ride in it
    1 point
  40. I LOVE the SD 1 yes - had several
    1 point
  41. So I just found somewhere to drop this nice little engine:
    1 point
  42. This thread is the replacement of the LT77 gearbox in a 200TDi Disco with a remanufactured item supplied by Ashcroft Transmissions. The following instructions are for one person doing the work, so are understandably detailed and complex - the weight of the transmission assembly is beyond most peoples abilities to lift into position without specialist lifting equipment, so the transfer case and gearbox are removed as seperate units. Taking the weight of each seperately is also quite dangerous as you need to be lying directly under each one in order to remove/fit them, and there's a risk of ei
    1 point
  43. Ozzy, argoshield is CO2/argon mix, not straight argon.
    0 points
  44. 0 points
  45. But if it deployed its optimised Diesel torque, electronics and transmission-technology to put up track-times just as good or better than a 'classic' not-even-clockwork-engined, un-intelligent-suspended, 2WD Elise? Would you still complain? I'm all in favour of using 21st-century stuff like ABS/traction-control/adaptive-suspension, automatic transmissions, variable-nozzle turbos and the like to make the driving-experience fast-and-easy. Part of me thinks that some people here would rather have a car that was 'true to its heritage' but would still need you to fiddle with a manual chok
    0 points


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy