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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Looking forward to the reveal. On a serious note, I saw someone say about a Grenadier sub-forum here on LR4x4. I think it was meant jokingly, but I'd like to put a +1 to the idea. I think it would be good to welcome such a vehicle on a forum such as this.
  2. 2 points
    I’ve read a lot of comments justifying the design of the new LR Defender against crash standards and safety regulations, and its construction against modern standards and what the market wants - effectively not admitting that they’ve renounced utility to build a luxury car .... and asserting that what they built was the ultimate modern 4x4 - I think we are about to see that that is all nonsense. This is looking every bit the modernised Defender to me so far; with intelligent supply chain and profit margins, substance over style and utility at its core - and all that that means, and all done whilst having the same beam axle and separate chassis design, plus boxy iconic exterior styling. What do they say? The King is Dead - long live the king !.
  3. 2 points
    Why not post the answer for the benefit of future folks?
  4. 1 point
    It starts! Put fuel in, took the pin out of the fire extinguisher, pressurised the system, had a leak around the cannister on the fuel filter (bad O ring), binned it, fitted an in-line filter, bought another (bigger) fire extinguisher, checked the whole system, pressurised it, no leaks. Fired right up, ran like a pig at first and then settled into a rough idle around 1200 RPM. Tacho says it's doing >6000 RPM but MS and my ears say otherwise so have to look at that. It is smoking a fair bit of blue smoke and smells like burning oil but it's been sat for 8 years so I'm going to get it properly hot before I get too worried. There's a lot of smoke from everywhere while the diverse range of schmoo burns off. I'm getting a very odd hesitation when applying throttle, it's almost carb-like in the initial stall then revving. I've not touched the stepper motor so do I need to if it's running?
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Well, it is more a spiritual successor than the 2020 Defender.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    After seeing this topic the other day I did a little reading on the topic too, it looks like that certain cam bearings are designed to be "line bored" in situ - i.e. they have excess grey bearing material to take into account a light skim from the boring process.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Just Ordered a set for my 110CSW
  11. 1 point
    I've got some of those too Mav, got them from George on the other forum. Haven't got round to pointing them anywhere yet though. Mo
  12. 1 point
    The bullet connector goes into one of the multiplugs on the main loom by the clutch pedal box. There’s a matching socket with the correct wire colour. Ring terminal to earth on the bulkhead. Thats how mine is wired anyhow.
  13. 1 point
    NO.... it means I'd have some of that weird fitting stuff and I'd have to go buy it, The thought did cross my mind and it has in the past when I've used this material before and needed to thread it (i have ALOT of it lol) the main reason why I don't is I'll end up mixing up similar sized nuts and bolts so I only stock metric I'll stop off and grab another packet of M6 washers and finish these off today and start the spindles
  14. 1 point
    This post shows pretty well what the difference is between all the SUVs and the newer Land Rovers: Toyota Highlander after being taken off road The new Defender doesn't need a new oil pan, subframe and who knows what else after a little bit of rock crawling. Because it's still designed with off-road in mind.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks Fridge, I’ve taken the plunge and got one of these Lucas SNB801 used in everything from a metro to a 5.3 V12 Jaguar. Being Lucas it will be the pinnacle of Automotive electrical Wizardry!!!! But it’s M10 x 1.25. I’ll update with the results.
  16. 1 point
    I know the feeling I dreamed about them for years but the reality is its costly and time consuming even when you can do most of the work yourself, I was fortunate I was looking at a set (which I bought ) on ebay and my wife said why don't you buy them" WHAT DID YOU SAY"So from her perspective she was spending a lot of money yearly doing dog agility and said she would feel better if I spent an equivalent amount on something I wanted to do the rest is history So I wish you luck with your dream but you can hitch a ride with mine in the meantime regards Stephen
  17. 1 point
    So I made a start on this yesterday, got both boxes out, luckily I have a double garage which has made it a bit easier but my advice to anyone doing this, if you can get access to a ramp it will be done in no time. So currently my 200tdi has a new clutch and the R380 box out of my 300tdi bolted straight on, no modification needed here from me anyway 😁 with only the weight being the most difficult part so far. I still need to change the speedo drive and the handbrake before I can fit the R380s t-box. As FridgeFreezer said, both gearboxes are the same overall length - the gear stick on the R380 box sits a little further back than the LT77 by half inch or so because of this so i may need to 'alter' the centre console to suit or maybe I can do something with the shifter instead but I'll address that later. 🤔 I plan to use the R380s gearbox mount, but I have both so will see what fits and post an update.
  18. 1 point
    I was using them all the time is Australia because they are realisticly the only way to cut Bissalloy and Hardox. Had a dry fit inside the beam..... the drill is definitly too big to fit in the beam cross ways but because its able to do the larger cutters, the drill is further from the magnet... (the one I got in Australia is only capable of cutting 35mm and is alot closer to the magnet).... but because of the extra distance it lets me run it at an angle, and fits no proplems.... ordered a pin last night, guessing that will be here mid week then I get to give it a play...... Well I had a better than expected day in the shop yesterday..... got my mates stuff sorted very quickly so got all the holes drilled, formed and dimpled The large raised dimples had to be stretched on a sandbag prior to pressing and most of them needed a bit more stretching and re-pressing with the die to stop them pulling and twisting the panels it mightn't look it but that is a large form...... because I was going hard to get them done (had to be home by a set time lol) there is the odd one that got a bit to much pre stretching with the mallet and when I pressed the dies and not all the mallet marks are pulled out I'm not going to bother planishing them out as I'm going to give them a resumble powder coat.... so I don't think you'll be able to see them when they are coated (Just need to get my powder coating gun over here from Australia lol) I was going so well I got some of the rod "stays" sorted as well... till I ran out of 6mm washers lol I decided to give them a bit of clamping with 6mm washers..... its a little frustrating the rod is from auction win yrs ago and is 1/4".... I'm putting M6 nuts on it so need to take 0.5mm off before I tap.... but its using up some odd material lol
  19. 1 point
    You can get big horsepower out of anything... for a short time. LR lumps have always been de-tuned for long life and abuse, it's not a mistake or oversight. Also the screaming HP peak tends to hurt the useful low-down torque that actually makes the vehicle so much better for the regular user.
  20. 1 point
    I'm impressed! Not keen on smoky diesels, but it shows what BL could have done with the engines, but didn't. If only....
  21. 1 point
    The only time I involved my wife (first one, have learned since) was to ask her if I could buy my CSK 19 years ago. When I did she said no so my reply to her was "I'm buying it anyway!" Funny how I still have the CSK and the misses is now history. Mind you she was upgrade for a younger and prettier model who strangely enough required much less maintenence.
  22. 1 point
    Maybe I should BUT when my R380 was fitted the UTJ100210 release bearing didn't exist, plus the existing bearing version has been fine in the previous R380. & why does LRSeries state it's for a long bell housing R380 on 300TDi BEARING CLUTCH RELEASE Part number: UTJ100210 Applicable Models: Defender, Wolf XD. Product Description: 300 TDi engine models, clutch release bearing. http://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=677 mine looks exactly the same so afaik it maybe the newer part number, but had FTC5200 on the box & no it's not a britpart item.


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