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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    Nothing much to report in the last week despite working on it every spare minute! Have done a service, tightened suspension bolts, fitted mud flaps and fitted the new headlights and other front light wiring. Failed miserably at bleeding the brakes last night (chasing weeping joints) and in the position where the fronts seem decent but still an issue at the back. Today marked a landmark though as I sneaked out and bleed the clutch at lunch time. First drive in 10 months!
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    The warning light has +12v ignition controlled connected at one side of it and the other side goes to 0v through the pressure switch normally closed contact and the light is on. When the pressure rises, the switch opens and the warning light goes out. With the wire disconnected at the switch, you are measuring some volts because your test meter is acting like the switch and providing a path to earth for a very small amount of current (and it only needs this small amount to display a voltage). It isn’t enough to light the warning lamp though. If it did, the lamp would drop all the 12 volts and you wouldn’t measure anything. So just connect the wire, check that the lamp is on with the ignition and then start-up and it will go out.
  5. 1 point
    Whats the official response? Wave back? Ignore them like series drivers used to with defender drivers? Give them the middle finger?
  6. 1 point
    experience 0, creativity 7+ We'll see where I end up. I'm excited to even lift an engine out of a car for the first time in my life
  7. 1 point
    best place for all diagrams, electrical etc. https://www.lrworkshop.com/
  8. 1 point
    Again you guys have come up trumps, Thanks. If anyone on the form is ever in N.I. and have a misshap and need a base feel free to contact me, and if i can help I will. Regards Mark.
  9. 1 point
    Connect them in series for the winch. 😈😈
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  11. 1 point
    If it is an 86 County then it originally had a LT85 but while unlikely I guess it could have been changed to something like a LT77 but is not likely with the 3.9 Diesel which never had the LT77.
  12. 1 point
    LT77 = Reverse left of 1st gear R380 = Reverse on the right opposite 5th gear What engine ?
  13. 1 point
    So for gearbox number location on a LT77 - see here - but post up the full spec of your vehicle is it V8, inline petrol, or diesel - this gives you a big clue as to what box it likely is. I think you'll quite honestly get as much info as you ask for on here, there is a mammoth amount of knowledge at your finger tips. Ask away as well as check out the technical archive - https://forums.lr4x4.com/forum/15-land-rover-technical-archive/
  14. 1 point
    I think that's a casting number, do you have a wider view? If you go to Ashcroft's web site they've an identification guide.
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  16. 1 point
    I think I'll have space. I'll try for standard first.
  17. 1 point
    But then come straight back here (lr4x4). whats your actual problem?
  18. 1 point
    Why not try Aussie LR Forums - AULRO is about the largest LR forum in the world and is right on your back step.
  19. 1 point
    This is my circuit although I drew the relay contact as normally open but it is the normally closed pins that are used. This means that when the level is OK, current flows and the relay is energised and the warning light stays off. Relay is an Omron G5V-1 which has very low current draw for the coil. This prevents burning of the reed switch in the cap through excessive current draw. It has been in place for a year. As the power is applied at ignition-on though, the relay switches too quickly to be able to see the warning light flash as a circuit test. I really need to modify it with a little delay timer.
  20. 1 point
    I've come to a pretty tried and trusted set up over the years I always use Superpro bushes, then Raw 4x4 +2" shocks (big body, tough and reliable); OME 764 Medium Load rears, with Gwyn Lewis 1" spacer; NTC 8477 G/B/Y front springs on Gwyn Lewis 1" spacer; D4x4 spring re-locator on the rear and rubber isolators on the front. I run Disco steels, to avoid more than a Camel cut and at the moment 215/85x16 Hankook RT03. The front has a TF RRC winch bumper (with many, many improvements) and a G10 DLX winch (no front bash plate) I have done the calcs and weighed the F/R to confirm the springs work well. I have flex but good road holding and I can tow. The OME springs are superb On my 100" and the 110, I used a Gwyn Lewis shock relocation on the rear, with a +5" OME pin/pin fitment and Red/Red 110 HD rears with dislocation retention system. The Salisbury axle uses a wide angle prop as standard. Rear articulation was ludicrous. I work on the theory that lifts require stiffer springs or more metal. I'd opt for arch cutting before fitting a big lift. The 110 was able to use standard springs , but had huge articulation on the rear because of the longer shocks. I like to stay within homologation and sensible gearing on tyre sizes, so generally use a size of tyre approved for the vehicle. 100" and 110 were both 235/85x16, RRC and Disco were/are the same. The RRC was a test bed for ideas and to prove/disprove products; the 110 and the Disco have been test beds to prove products for clients vehicles. I no longer run my 'little business on the side' so these days I don't really bother opting away form ideas I know work, unless someone shows me differently I would say your biggest issue will be weight. You have a light vehicle. The Red/White police spec springs were designed for overloaded police RRC to keep at the standard level. They are hard if you weigh less than 2.5 tonnes. I would suggest the Disco V8 fronts and some arch trimming; or if you are going to carry a bit more ballast , one of the progressive Disco rears, either yellow/yellow or white/white - these work very well on a 90, very well indeed
  21. 1 point
    Hi im new to the forum but but the topic heading is conveniently named machanic wanted VIC Australia. I'm not shore if every one can see that though? but I'm guessing that if you don't no where geelong is you probably wouldn't no a mechanic there 😋
  22. 1 point
    How about the JLR network? After all, they're not competing either.

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