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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/13/2020 in all areas

  1. Well engine is running great, popped the bonnet to check the hour meter & found 1000.1 hours on it. So that's 28,088 miles in 1000 running hours.
    5 points
  2. Nice work. I smell a small business opportunity.
    2 points
  3. So completed this section of the build apart from tig welding first cut out vent sections Then shaped ends Folded long sides which was more difficult than I imagined due to flex in 5"channel Cut some angle iron for my gabro folder And then folded end sections up Them mocked up with vent flaps Obviously loads more to do but feeling pretty chuffed regards Stephen
    2 points
  4. To all members With reference to the Technical Archive if anyone has a good technical post they think would be worth saving for future reference & use by others please note the message below OR copy/paste the relevant link in reply to this post. intention is to try & increase the standing of the Tech Archive, we also have a Popular Modifications archive so if anyone has done a good mod they think others would like to read/add to their vehicle then please mark it as Popular Mod ---- then the url link to it that way I can see where it needs to be add
    1 point
  5. I've been in a few vehicles with patrol Y61 axles behind an Lt230, Some have had drive train vibration on overrun badly, some haven't at all. That's more to do with unequal UJ angles (diff pinion vs t box angle) than lateral offset. That being said I'd aim for moving the diff closer to in line if possible, as its less kind on the UJ's etc We've flipped a few Y61 rear casings to give a RH drop instead of the very slightly LH drop as standard, and added trussing and full bolt on LR mounts. I'd highly recommend doing this. Get your measurements right and the original shafts fit
    1 point
  6. Great stuff; many thanks for the advice.
    1 point
  7. I found that lifting the back to get the seat base level meant I was so high that I restricted my view up the road and I am only 6ft tall so not excessive I did find it uncomfortable with no lift as the seat squab pressed under my thighs I did make some sloping runners out of 2mm steel to fit a range rover seat in but then sold the seat to someone who needed it for its original purpose. I just folded bits and stuck them together
    1 point
  8. Was in Tesco the other day and saw they had new Henrys on offer for £100 - might be worth a punt as they seem to go for at least £50 second hand and are all 200 miles away.
    1 point
  9. Likewise. A helicoil done properly is stronger than a plain thread.
    1 point
  10. I would have no qualms about using a helicoil. Mo
    1 point
  11. That's an immensely impressive build thread! I admire your perseverance - and the end result looks about as good as it gets! Si
    1 point
  12. Worn plunger, but thankfully managed to get in contact with m and b fuels and they directed me to merlin diesel who have amazing customer service as they helped me with everything and made my order and should have the injectors very soon. Thanks for all the help
    1 point
  13. That's excellent work, a proper achievement 🙂 I think I'd knock up a few more panels whilst the dies are still rust free and you remember all the little tricks to get this to work!
    1 point
  14. A manual option in the states? Sounds like dangerous pinko libtard socialism talk to me.
    1 point
  15. Knew you'd come good in the end, top work and 11/10 for effort fella
    1 point
  16. Hmmm I'm afraid it anyone knew they would already be gone regards Stephen
    1 point
  17. Weld a nut onto the stub that is sticking out. The heat will help unstick the bolt, and you’ll be able to unwind it with a spanner.
    1 point
  18. If all that doesn't work, try warming the caliper in an oven, it is supposed to withstand heat after all, and maybe add a squirt of freezer aerosol on the bolt. If the whole thing is warm you should have more bolt wiggling time. Serve with a cold beer.
    1 point
  19. As long as you zap the only, not the caliper, welding a nut on would be my choice. Weld spatter won't stick to the aluminium.
    1 point
  20. for vehicles with a "landrover" chassis, yes you can 4 link them, but it generally doesnt make it better , in relation the U4 & challenge vehicles, by having a tubular chassis it allows more room to position the links where they are benificial to the suspension geometry rather than where they fit,
    1 point
  21. how much clearance do you have between the punch and die around the edges ? proper candle wax might make a good drawing lube Using Aluminium of the best grade for deep drawing (and new) will probably make a big difference to the splitting , the oblong hole you cut in one of your pieces will also help around the ends . The edge of the oblong needs to be good and smooth with hole saw cut radii in the corners - the smooth edge reduces stress raised points that start the tear . doing it in two stages with an annealing between could also help . Great fab as always Stephen , yo
    1 point
  22. Oh, I know. Just seems a little sad to lose that small advantage Land Rovers have had for ages.
    1 point
  23. This appeared on one of the Facebook Land Rover groups today, it's NOT a Defender
    0 points


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