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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/15/2020 in all areas

  1. How much thread you got left on your rod .. pardon me 😂
    2 points
  2. The idea Ross was doing away with the internal flap on the heater box and fitting the bypass valve as in the Tdci Defenders I believe , anyway on to a bit more progress . Passenger side dash panel fixings sorted , drilled through and fitted rivnuts so nice and easy . Just needs a bit more weld on it then covering , next up tacked the side piece in after taken the center panel out , then onto the surround for the center opening . Got some M5 bolts off eBay , sanded the sides down , so they fitted nicely to the inner of the frame , then welded them in ,
    2 points
  3. Or use steel door skins, like this: https://www.sp-4x4.com/lh_galvanised_steel_defender_front_door_skin_p/sp101.htm
    2 points
  4. They are a couple of hundred for a big(ish) one. Part of what’s attractive though is the finish they give - it doesn’t key the surface in the way a blaster does.
    1 point
  5. Chambo, You need to be accelerating hard when you setting the max boost pressure as you are setting maximum boost. Most of the time driving you won't be anywhere near it. Stop mucking (with an F ) about with the control arm and get yourself a valve! It is soooooo much easier to adjust. Lastly in the nicest possible way, if you don't understand what you are doing then do some research. Understand what boost is and what it does and how the boost compensation system works THEN you can make informed decisions yourself on what adjustments to make rather than asking and hoping. It rea
    1 point
  6. Ah ok . I may have a few more turns to reach that ill check tomorrow thank you
    1 point
  7. I could help if your struggling for someone local regards Stephen
    1 point
  8. Yeah Jez has moved on (family life etc.) and someone else cloned the high-ratio diffs he was making which meant he couldn't do any more. The other bits I've kept on with, as much as anything because I still have a vehicle with the 303's fitted so I need to keep my stuff going. Don't always have a huge stock as that costs money, but can get most things one way or another - I don't think there's any service item I wouldn't feel confident being able to source fairly easily.
    1 point
  9. If it isn’t a requirement to place indicators outboard of tail lamps when mounted side by side, then it is certainly the assumed norm. I cannot think of any vehicle that has them the other way around, and while having tail lamps denote the full width of the vehicle is desirable, having turn indications inboard of the tail lamps could be confusing, especially if only one of the tail lights is visible to the following vehicle. Try to picture just tail or brake lights, possibly part obscured, with no other visual references, and imagine the perception of inboard indicators - they would be count
    1 point
  10. Oh dear, shame it had to be wasted.
    1 point
  11. volume control valve, or suction control valve...it sits in the high pressure fuel pump and controls the low pressure side of the pump. It is a simple remedy to irratic cold running, low power at the top end and a few other gremlins with the tdci engine. there is a thread here on Def2 which shows uneven wear of the unit.
    1 point
  12. Air con, or anything else they wanted to fit!
    1 point
  13. Well worth it, beautiful country
    1 point
  14. If you're cooking your shocks you need better shocks... given that genuine ones are rated for thrashing across the desert in a laden 130 ambulance (3500kg+ gvw) I'd question if aftermarket shocks may not be as rufty-tufty as they make out.
    1 point
  15. My approach to overland trucks is that everything should either be standard or swappable with standard - if build an Uber-axle using all sorts of special bits and then lunch a bearing in the middle of nowhere, you are more likely going to be able to get a standard part than some custom-whittled special bit that only that one company back home have any of. By all means uprated shafts for example, but if you throw an LSD in that needs special oil you've made your truck harder to service/repair. Also I thought/had heard that lockers didn't necessarily help on snow/ice as locking the whe
    1 point
  16. Having a genuine replacement non galvanised chassis on the 90 for 10 years now and been happy with it in all respects I'd get the same again but galved next time so I suppose I would go with Marsland. Not that I need a new chassis mind ! Thank God because they are all fearsomely expensive now ! Mo
    1 point
  17. Parts washer is fine - I was more focused on stripping down the box, before I clean it. The gears and shafts are spotless: the rust came from the bearing cages. I've not found a "fault" with the box yet - I suspect the vehicle died before the box did. I'll do a shopping list up and then get the parts. I think I'll bring the seals to a seal supplier and get the double lip versions, the same people should do the speedisleeves to recondition the output shafts. Glad that people are enjoying this, I certainly am!
    1 point
  18. This is a seriously good write-up! Keep it coming
    1 point
  19. Cool cheers Ralph. All done. just gotta go Halfords again now to replenish the coolant I just dumped 🤬🤬🤬timing wasn’t good there really 😂
    0 points
  20. You get one if you ask. I just wanted everything in order and have it all on file in case I got asked about the chassis change at any time. It also helped when the installer claimed the chassis was out of spec until I found out he was measuring it with a wooden ruler!!! Turns out the chassis is spot on and now know the installer was a complete dipstick. It took me ages to fix his other cock ups! Toby
    0 points


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