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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/17/2020 in all areas

  1. Very true but what's angered me the most with my dentist is they arnt doing anything Oh wait a minuite "We could do your teeth privately" at great expense I'm sure, money grabbing b. .......ards regards Stephen
    2 points
  2. Unless it's actually Gold! The miracle of the R380...
    2 points
  3. Boost controller fitted. see what you mean Mo .. how easy is that now. rod set back to standard, FIP not touched. Boost now is 14psi at approx 3000rpm in 3rd flooring it up the best hill I could find on this snooker table I live on. feels sooo much better. thanks all for tips, pics and links
    2 points
  4. Thanks all. I will pull those spacers off next and can swap the wheel over from my truck over to the 110 for testing. interesting about the recall though I did not know about that one and seems odd that they would have changed the design of the front axle then, nothing about it that looked obviously different. Will see if it is an affected car though as from the VIN it was built 2011 and registered 2012 so puts it bang in the middle of that range. - Edit it is about 1000 units outside of this range I changed the bolts for new ones for this exact reason. W
    2 points
  5. There's just no way that box is any good with that amount of glitter in the oil.
    2 points
  6. Dana 60 centres. Still pretty good axles and should be stronger overall than a Rover axle. I believe Dana had been supplying the Rover axles for many years however.
    1 point
  7. The Mrs Christmas present is now sorted though so silver (or gold ) lining 🤣
    1 point
  8. Simple thing - have you made sure that the panhard rod bolts are done up to hernia giving tightness? I had a wobble just before the last MOT and was fairly sure I had a knackered panhard rod bush, took it off and it was fine. Realised that the bolt just wasn't tight enough - there was minimal play but tightening it up made a world of difference.
    1 point
  9. I had some brand new BFG KO2's sent back not long ago as they could not balance them - they tried several times and checked the rims for straightness. There was no problem with the previous Goodyear duratracs. The symptoms were death wobble between 40 and 50mph, but to be fair to the tyre company, I said I would do the preloads first just in case. I fitted new upper pins and bearings and set them slightly tighter than specified and it made sod all difference. New tyres fitted and death wobble very much reduced, but not eliminated, so don't rule out the tyres just because they are BFG!
    1 point
  10. If it's who I think it is, they do make mistakes. Their 'recon' boxes are bare minimum replacement and gears/bearings form Turkey, not Spain or Japan as they used to be. That 'glitter' is phosphor bronze, so something is very not right, although it's very pretty. One good thing about this company (i'm thinking of) is they value their reputation for sorting out issues
    1 point
  11. I'd also suggest that once you've tested it without the spacers, I'd try it without the steering damper on it too to make sure that's not masking anything that's there repeatedly.
    1 point
  12. Completely off-the-wall thought, but there was a recall on 2011-12 Defender for a weakness in the front axle casing. The wording of the recall didn't seem very reassuring, nor did a photo I saw of the added brackets. Worth checking if this one is in the affected range? Other than that I'd be looking at all the things already covered. If in doubt, tighten the swivels, and while the wheels are off swap them front to back (and stick the spacers on ebay).
    1 point
  13. I would try fitting a set of wheels with good tyres if you can borrow a set from someone - but without the spacers. Or just try without the spacers to start with. I really am no expert mechanic or indeed with land rovers, but I have had a number of experiences with juddering steering and that has been down to bad tyres (which often did not look damaged). One of those experiences was with my defender!
    1 point
  14. I'd also be looking at the spacers. Did you look at the bolts on the panhard? they can wear and cause issues, along with the hole in the axle bracket. Talking of panhard - Are all the bolts on the chassis bracket tight?
    1 point
  15. Added to all this, Covid is being used as a mask for data breaches that would otherwise have been *entirely* illegal.
    1 point
  16. Use a credit card, if they get unhelpful after you buy a second box at least you have a second string to that bow ....2 cents
    1 point
  17. Some real nice experiences there, including the ****ting Lion I had a feeling i wanted to run over and rub those lioness's on the tummy like i do the dogs... Not sure the outcome would've been the same Nice video and pics, and with an older camera too! I was thinking you were at least using a D750 or above.
    1 point
  18. Can’t remember what I paid now to be honest quality was very good though. checked that pipe for kinks and blockages.. all seems good. Manual boost control just arrived . Rod set back to original position. Gonna leave it til tomorrow now.. weather permitting. spent today reading through mo’s link and watching numerous vids cheers all
    1 point
  19. Do you spend a lot of time at idle or low rpm - or do you rag the nuts of it regulalry? Our Transits, Rangers and D90's fitted with 2.4 and 2.2 ford engines dropped like flies... But that's because they were left to idle for long periods and never given a good hard thrash.. So we swapped to Sprinters..... and the less said about that disaster, the better. Now we have Iveco, D5's and Shoguns. The Iveco's are very, very good
    1 point
  20. Well... You can get new old stock if you are very lucky. There a few cheap non bosche injectors floating around. So, yes, there are - but it's not easy to get them and you pay for the privaledge
    1 point
  21. I'm after one for a Series II, but thanks for the offer.
    1 point
  22. Chambo, You need to be accelerating hard when you setting the max boost pressure as you are setting maximum boost. Most of the time driving you won't be anywhere near it. Stop mucking (with an F ) about with the control arm and get yourself a valve! It is soooooo much easier to adjust. Lastly in the nicest possible way, if you don't understand what you are doing then do some research. Understand what boost is and what it does and how the boost compensation system works THEN you can make informed decisions yourself on what adjustments to make rather than asking and hoping. It rea
    1 point
  23. The biggest pain with Milemarkers is that there is no support in the UK now. I've never needed anything (15 years and counting, only issue I've ever had was the belt to the pump stretching with age and slipping) but if anything went significantly wrong it would basically not be worth trying to fix and I'd probably get another Goodwinch TDS9.5. Upsides of the MIlemarker are that it'll shift a house and shift it all day long. Downsides are that you'll need all day to shift it, with a low gear line speed of about 2m/min, unless you go for a full PTO system, and then you can't drive-assist. T
    1 point
  24. I didn't get that far as I only placed the spare on the bonnet but I didn't like it so have put it back on the rear bulkhead
    1 point
  25. talking of side protrusions that should be illegal... # But yes, it's a fair point - not much benefit to removing it from one place due to legalities only to put it somewhere worse. Disregard.
    1 point
  26. If you have the budget, definitely go for the Roverdrive (now called Roamerdrive because the scumbags in Tata love to sue anyone with the slightest, most tenuous excuse as to trademarks and copyrights). It’s a lot tougher and a lot quieter, and doesn’t weep as much. It also doesn’t add to maintenance as it doesn’t have it’s own oil reservoir to drain and refill.
    1 point
  27. https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html Have you used this? This says on 32" tyres, that you're running at 3000 rpm at the moment. With an OD, 2350rpm. With just the HRTC, you'd be at 2200ish.
    1 point
  28. Early '80s I worked for a Porsche dealer and we had an ARG dealer across the business park, (it's all a Sainsbury's now). Pre-delivery work for us consisted of getting the polythene, cardboard and wax off the car, checking all of the levels, checking the level of battery charge and putting some fuel in. Sometimes, we sometimes had to bolt some special wheels on or add a radio. The poor sods across the car park never knew the sort of dog they had until it turned up. Starting and running was not a given; so many cars were missing componants when rolled off the transporter, that they routin
    1 point
  29. FFIL remembers visiting the factory in the 70's and seeing hammocks on the production line, and the canteen serving pints on lunch break it's a miracle they ever made any cars at all
    1 point
  30. If only they’d put that much energy into managing the company. 😏
    1 point
  31. It’s a bit of a mix - new cars take a lot less routine maintenance (like tuning carbs, messing about with distributors and adjusting brakes) and don’t rust anywhere near as quickly, but they’re also less easily reparable.
    1 point
  32. My V8 Series 3 is MOT exempt, I tried really hard to find any clarification on the guidance (see my thread on it) and came to the conclusion that DVLA/VOSA/DVSA really don't give two hoots about crusty old Land Rovers as long as they're not stolen. Fill in the form, get it registered as historic and enjoy it. Personally I'd still take it for a checkup once a year with a decent local garage just for peace of mind, depends how much time you spend under it.
    1 point


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