Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/12/2021 in all areas

  1. When I was going through the planning stages of rebuilding my injectors I was unable to find a good exploded diagram to assist reassembly. As I took the first one apart I drew a diagram as an aid. I thought it might be useful to redraw it in photoshop and share this with the forum. Hopefully this helps!
    4 points
  2. Remember this my first proper go at forming panel that failed Decided to have a bit tig practice and see if I could repair it still not great with tig Blended welds still a bit of hammer form to do and a tad more blending but I think it could be usable at some point in the future regards Stephen
    2 points
  3. I've just read through the whole of this thread. I have to admit, I quite like the vehicle. I'm not sold on the external appearance of the new Defender - though I do like the interior and technology. The Grenadeer, I guess is more like I hoped the new defender would look externally. Building it at the kind of cost quoted will be a challenge without volume and a lot of investment - but possible with some 'refinements' (that some of you probably wouldn't like!). There was discussion about the cost of wiring harnesses & electronics being 1/3 the cost of a new vehicle. They c
    2 points
  4. Especially while he’s in the A&E queue...😉
    2 points
  5. Hydraulic spare wheel lift which will double as steps when down.
    2 points
  6. I saw a few trucks with this safety equipment today. It works on a simple principle - it prevents crashes by keeping the aggressive fwits lane swooping and overtaking or undertaking where unsafe to pass away from you! I told you lot that driving in the Middle East was like Mad Max. Now you know! IMG_0167.MP4
    1 point
  7. When you have the van sizes sorted and cnc templates you could produce x-eng self build camper an kits. There is a big market for self build camper vans at the moment, but appreciate your time is probably rather taken up by your other work already
    1 point
  8. It is what the market wants though, for better or worse. And to be fair the main touch screen in my 110 works very well, it’s simple to use and laid out well. There are hundreds of settings menus that you can go into but nothing that you’d need or want to do while driving it - you set it up and then forget about it. It has configurable tiles on the front so you can choose what you have displayed on the home screen in the same way as a phone/tablet - the default being three tiles for navigation, phone and media. The controls for heating and suspension/terrain response etc. are still physic
    1 point
  9. Little bit of progress made
    1 point
  10. Honestly, I love what you write almost all the time, Si, so technical and thought through from obvious experience, but in a vehicle, I just can't stand a touch screen, and it appears an awful lot of motoring journalists are going the same way. There's even been a study to show using even a built in touchscreen is far WORSE than using a mobile phone while driving, from a perspective of distraction. They are too complicated, too slow to use, and require far too many inputs to do something that could quite easily be done with a switch!
    1 point
  11. Still relevant as it basically outlaws the bulbs that I linked up above from my interpretation of it. I'd be curious to see what happens at the next MOT.
    1 point
  12. Thanks both, thats very much appreciated. Its now up and running well. I'll probably drop the oil in a thousand miles or so as it will probably be slightly higher octane than it should be!
    1 point
  13. Ok, I see what you mean.... with the changed the design from the first with a bent plate to the shaped side plates that wrap down & around the existing mount, this should make the assembly significantly stronger, once I can measure up the clearance I can tie the front & bottom plates together too. Also looks like the front plate will jam nicely against the frame to prevent the whole assembly trying to rotate around the 1” bolt.
    1 point
  14. It appears a moot point, if this is real (screen shot from a friend’s post on Facebook, new UK legislation):
    1 point
  15. Well done Ralph. I just used a pair of side-cutters which are fine on smaller clips. I have the proper tool, but I left it, locked-down at work. They are also known as Double (or single) Ear clips - but I've always called them Lemon Clips!
    1 point
  16. Worth fitting, then? 😉😂
    1 point
  17. Might be considered as not cyclist friendly... 😈
    1 point
  18. Having been given an impromptu piercing to the face by a wire cup brush, I would suggest a face shield as well, it is filthy work and helps to keep the face a little cleaner too. A hat can make washing your hair after a slightly less miserable experience, assuming still have some
    1 point
  19. Thanksfor all the comments.. bulkhead has gone. After watching a few YouTube videos and posts on other forums I decided I like the 'clean' look of a full removal, so i got the deletion bar from Rimmer. I also cut away the flanges that are left on the seat boxes to give a finished look. It is part of a full tub refurb which includes new skins and panels all round. Pretty happy with it so far - just need to find someone who doesnt want the earth to spray paint it for me. I should be taking more pics of the rebuild- but I keep forgetting!🙄
    1 point
  20. To be fair, if you picked the US flags off it it would be fine, it's better than being be-decked with camo gear.
    1 point
  21. It could be worse.... The annoying thing is the kit itself is practical and sensible - I found this while looking for something similar to organise the interior for camping gear and address the lack of storage in the interior. I just wish it didn't have to look like you're about to storm the Capitol Building.
    1 point
  22. @FridgeFreezerI agree. With that look you are going to either... 1)dive round your local area which is filled with top spec expensive cars and look like a ****. 2)go camping amongst normal camper vans and look like a **** 3)go somewhere poor, potentially get robbed and look like a **** 4)go somewhere dangerous where you really shouldn't be going like a **** because of feelings of false security. So to conclude, only one type of person will drive this sort of thing. You may insert your own preference for 4 letter descriptive terminology for such personality type.
    1 point
  23. That might have been one of mine! It was sliding on 'Oilon' (Oil filled Nylon) blocks which worked well on a factory floor. Stunts were not convinced they could get up enough speed to make it drift in such a confined space. That's typically where SFX get involved, to give a little, hidden, helping hand. It was made to bolt on - so it didn't have to be permanently fitted to the truck.
    1 point
  24. I couldn't figure out what to do about a sofa! I wanted something comfortable to sit on but it had to sit above the wheel-arch. In my old van, I had a couple of custom cushions made but they were not comfortable (wrong density of foam) and were eye-wateringly expensive. I had designed a sofa in Solidworks - and got the same company to quote to make the cushions. They wanted £1500 to make them! I used the van for a month, just using folding camping chairs - which worked OK. Then I came across a company on Etsy who were offering cushion sets for Wicker Chairs, made to my dimens
    1 point
  25. After the technical stuff was done, I assembled the furniture. I'd designed it all in Solidworks so it mostly slotted together. I say mostly as some of the slots I'd used were not quite wide enough (not enough clearance) for even a hammer-together fit. A bit of sanding & adjusting with a Jig-saw and it went together (finally). The cupboard door hinges came from CPC - and were only about £2 each. You can see part of my ventilation system (white pipe) which sucks in air close to the ground & blows it out at ceiling height. It was intended to go straight down, behind the
    1 point
  26. The Webasto seemed like a good option - initially! I found that it would heat up at full tilt, get to 80C then shut down - then short-cycle. The heating doesn't take enough energy out of the system for the Webasto to run continuously. When it's starting up or shutting down, the heater plug draws 20A. When it's short-cycling, the 20A is almost continuous. I wondered if I might be better off just heating the water electrically! My solution (would you believe it?) was to design & build a new controller for the Webasto! I designed a PCB which replaced the original and hack
    1 point
  27. I did not go for the full removal bar. I did look at it but actually wanted to retain the lower section. I am the type that leaves carp in the back and I did not want it all shooting forward and ending up in the footwell if I put the brakes on hard!
    1 point


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy