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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/22/2021 in all areas

  1. ‘Expedition’ there’s never been a factory defender called that? So if it’s got loads of extras it’s not factory. Or are you meaning the last of line ‘adventure’ models which are orange and black? If it’s your first I’d seriously suggest hiring one first. They’re very much an acquired taste and some people absolutely hate the drive. what are you wanting it for? That will help narrow down what to go for.
    3 points
  2. Well the Ibex has been sulking in the shed for too long and as a consequence the fuel pump had gummed itself up. He still started but just wanted run away, apparently the pump delivers peak fuel on start up and then the governor kicks in to control the fuel. When stripped they found the internals corroded so that the governor couldn't do its job. Took the injector pump to Hickley's in Bridgwater and got the pump back a week later looking like new. They suggested that I took the rest of the fuel system apart to clean out any crud that had migrated so I stripped everything between the fuel filter and the engine flushed with fuel and blown through with the air line apart from the Injectors which after a look at You Tube I decided to have a crack at. They'd not been out I recon for 25 years and no1 took some getting out - bought a slide hammer on ebay and it worked a treat! Having got the injectors out the nozzles looked quite worn, I eventually managed to track a set down so decided to have a go at rebuilding them myself. Firstly the nuts were super tight to undo compounded by what appeared to be a trace of coke around them. Then to pull them apart, you really have to pay attention to the sequence and orientation - on the plus side you've got a couple more to practice on before it gets critical😃. After 30+ years they stilled pristine so soaked everything in diesel cleaner and blew everything through before rebuilding. Spent the weekend putting everything back together and timing the engine up and finally got him started this evening. Still starts a treat! IMG_2850 3.mov
    2 points
  3. End of a seriously good business....
    2 points
  4. First rule of owning a Defender... Never add up what you have spent on them over the years, it will scare you
    2 points
  5. Loving Meccano's approach. I've had a fallow few months because it's really cold outside(!) so I've been learning more about Fusion360 and getting better at 3D-printing stuff. It can dangerously become the answer to everything though, but I've found an economic source of MIG gas again too so we may be able to add metallic fabrication back to the arsenal soon. My progress has taken much longer than the photos suggest - essentially I've put the electronics in a box and made three brackets; I'm hoping this is the bit where lots of effort doesn't bear much fruit. 3D printing brings a nice custom finish to this, though the jury's still out on whether it'd be adds value or if it'd be quicker to just buy something or fold up some metal. Hoping-it's-temporary box for the sparky bits: And a few clamps to hang the solenoids off the cage to stop it wandering around. Next to do is extend the solenoid loom and height sensor looms to reach the dashboard and put a neat little plug on them. I don't have the patience or steady hand for soldering so I've ordered a third-hand clamp thingy.
    2 points
  6. The darker bit is where fuel sprayed while bleeding the injector lines😇
    1 point
  7. Both have damage where the oil pressure switch screws in, one I did have the broken bit welded back on & fitted a helicoil but could not make it leak free, the other is intact but cracked at the same location, & it's spread open slightly, I can add 2 photos when home from work about 7.30pm. I think both could be welded up & redilled & threaded for the pressure switch. But haven't done any more with them yet,
    1 point
  8. Rule #1: It's always a scam.
    1 point
  9. Thanks Snagger, mine look much the same as yours and Paines. BTW thats a very clean and tidy motor! 👍 Thanks again G 🙂
    1 point
  10. Whilst waiting for parts, made a moving frame using some of the spare axle assembly jig parts. Just need casters to arrive to finish it off now. Will make moving them around under the truck much easier come time to install.
    1 point
  11. Shame, I took my Landy there when I first started in 2000, they did all the mechanics of my rebuild, 112,000km around Africa without any serious or even medium level faults.... Never found mechanics so good after them....
    1 point
  12. Update from phone call, they had a delay at the foundery and will be sending the kits out early next week ☹️
    1 point
  13. Welcome Billy As above, what do you want to use the vehicle for? Off-roading, green laning, travel, local runabout, daily driver? Whether you are able/willing to do any work required yourself will also have a bearing on what you would want to buy. Personally I wouldn’t be spending that sort of money on a Defender as you’ll be buying at the premium, and frankly overpriced, end of the market.
    1 point
  14. I would avoid all of the tarter-uppers like the plague. Get something that's not been dicked about with by anyone. Also 2nd Ross's comment - borrow or hire one for a week to see if you can live with it, it's not like anything else you've driven. If I had 40k to throw at a Defender I'd be tempted to get a ratty old one and rennovate it as I wanted - likely end up better, more solid and longer lived than a tarted up late-model.
    1 point
  15. Being a mini man and a kit car man I've known about the jiffy for years and no. Mike
    1 point
  16. This is a Land Rover forum, not a conspiracy theorist’s forum - please keep things on topic.
    1 point
  17. You can put forward any opnion you might wish to, so long as you do so with the basic respect and decency we all should expect of each other. Getting angry because someone doesn't agree with your opinion is not an option, though. All of the credible science does point to it.... But I didn't mention climate change. I merely said these schemes are designed to keep more-polluting engines out of areas. Separate climate change from this for a minute; we can prove that air quality increases when traffic is lower. We can prove that smog is a thing. We can prove that instances of respiratory disease is higher in the most polluted areas. All of the evidence points to these as true. Whether these schemes are the best way to do this, whether they unfairly penalise those who cannot afford them and do nothing against those who can is a different matter. I am saying they make people think about the vehicles they own and drive in those areas, as we see on this forum. Ok. @Green200tdiapologies for putting your thread off-topic, you've got a cracking vehicle and it would be a shame to see you lose interest in it.
    1 point
  18. Don't get me wrong, I completely accept man made climate change the evidence is overwhelming. As for covid, go and talk to those mourning the loss of loved ones or doctors and nurses who are working tirelessly to help those suffering: you can talk to my wife who is a nurse if you like. I do however really dislike the blunt tool of simply banning things rather than persuasion through rational debate. That said I feel many of the problems most of us now find ourselves in is when logic and expert opinion are shouted down and dismissed. It's when we stop listening to expert opinion, allowing logic and facts to change our minds rather than emotion or preconceived ideas that things really start to go wrong. I often wonder for those folks who don't like an expert opinion: do they go to the doctor when they are ill or just ask their friends down the pub for a diagnosis?
    1 point
  19. I finally installed the dynamic timing advance spacer and spring shim. I started by cleaning around the dynamic advance plate. Note the number stamping is oriented upwards, the plate is not symmetrical from top to bottom, there is a relief molded into the top. I decided to do it in situ, but it is not much harder to remove the pump and install the spacer that way. My main reason for installing it in situ, was to not have to hassle with spilling diesel and priming the system. For some reason, the finger lever on my mechanical lift pump does not supply any pressure so priming is a PITA in my case. I need to replace the lift pump ASAP. The plate is fixed with T30 torx bolts. I used this small ratchet to break them loose, then used the torx bit by hand to fully unthread the bolts Here is the plate removed and the supplied shim for the springs. My kit was for a Cummins and the spring shim did not fit the alignment pin in the plate. I measured the shim and it was 2.80 mm. I found some galvanized m8 x 16 x 1.5 mm washers in my collection which fit perfectly. The measured thickness of two washers was 2.90 mm, which is .1 mm thicker than the shim, but as I do not currently have a bench vise, using the galvanized washers was the easier choice. Furthermore, I am not convinced that the shim that came with the kit is even the correct thickness for the land rover engine, and unlike the machined shim that @NRS91 sells with his kit, this 'shim' looks like an ordinary 1/4" washer. The thickness of the timing spacer is roughly 5 mm (I neglected to measure it before installation), so as it sits right now I am getting a total decrease of around 2.2 mm in spring preload. I am planning to order some shims and fine tuning the thickness over time as R&R is super easy in my 200Tdi. There are factory shims already installed, so I removed the small ones to install the aftermarket shim. There are two sizes of shims in my FIP that correspond to the two springs. The inner spring has additional shimming, so installing the aftermarket shim before the small shims ensures that the the relative difference in preload between the two spring is maintained. I installed them in the above order (1-4). I coated the new o-rings with some grease to lubricate and hold them in place during assembly. Installed the o-ring into the dynamic timing advance spacer assembled with the springs (don't worry I wiped down the parts before installation 🙂) I then loosely assembled the parts back on the FIP. I used a 5 mm hex bit to thread the bolts finger tight, then used a hex key torque them down. Since these are sealed with o-rings I only used enough torque to ensure that the bolts would not back out, I would estimate around 5 -10 nm. So far, no leaks 🤞. In total, removal and reinstallation took less than 20 minutes, excluding the time spent finding the correct washers I used for shims. At least in a 200TDi without air conditioning, in situ installation is simple and fast. If you have a timing tool kit it'll take a little longer, but will be less fiddly, and it would give you an opportunity to check and reset your static timing 🙂 Before I installed the dynamic timing advance kit, I had installed a shim in my governor spring. This adjustment raised the RPM at which the FIP governor begins to intervene, the result of which is a different fueling curve and higher EGTs. The improvement in driveability and performance is significant, however. When I installed the dynamic timing advance kit, EGTs decreased considerably, though not quite to where it needs to be. I will be refining fueling to resolve this, but it is pretty close and totally driveable as it is. I was really surprised with how much the dynamic timing advance kit reduced the over-fueling issue without any other adjustments. With all of the adjustments I have made, the 200Tdi now has good power from idle to beyond 3400 RPM (I don't know how far as I shift at 3400 or less) and stays in the engine's power band while shifting under hard acceleration--an absolute revelation. Shimming the governor spring was a brilliant improvement, but increasing the dynamic advance increases efficiency, which mitigates the rise in EGTs. In my opinion, these two modifications are complimentary and are marvelous. I can't say that I detected any seat-of-the-pants performance improvement with the installation of the dynamic timing advance kit alone, but i provides additional room for increasing fueling under boost conditions. I suspect if your FIP is factory tuned this modification may not enhance performance. For additional context, my 1989 Range Rover has 265/75r16 BFG Km2s on tornado wheels. I can't remember how much each wheel/tire weigh, but I think it is above 70lbs multiplied by 5. I have a HEAVY homemade winch bumper (fully boxed 1/4 steel--comical overkill) and I habitually carry a steel land anchor in the factory spare tire well as well as some recovery gear. I don't remember exactly how the vehicle was equipped at the time , but it weighed in at ~5400 lbs with the aluminum 3.9. My static advance is set to 1.60 mm of lift at TDC and I have a higher spec 'Race' turbo CHRA with a billet compressor wheel with boost limited at 18 PSI. I am using an aftermarket boost pin, which increases the rate of fueling as boost increases and, importantly, the relative difference between off-boost and max-boost fueling (which I think is a bit of a trade off unless you choose to live with smoke under max boost).
    1 point
  20. That could be turned into a great camper 🤣
    1 point
  21. Yeah like i say if needed i will fit a bigger master cylinder and a servo but up to now with the fronts the brakes are tonnes better 🙂
    1 point
  22. Love this thread, I told my son jokingly over Xmas (he's 19) in front of his mum that I had been spending a lot of time with my mistress recently (he obviously looked shocked) and that she was high maintenance but also really dirty (he then looked appalled). His face was a picture when it dawned on him that I was pulling his leg as I put my padded overalls on to work on my "mistress" out on the drive. 🙂
    1 point
  23. I rented one of those to do a little trip through Death Valley and around the Grand Canyon in the U.S.A., a few years back now. I was struck by how genuinely useful it was. Elsewhere, we are back to price discussions. I just don't understand how people think a specialised, almost bespoke vehicle like a Grenadier isn't going to be considerably more expensive than a stamped-out clone from a mega factory. That's not being realistic. And the boat-prow front end? A million times better than the bulbous, ultra-vulnerable monstrosity on the new Defender. It will certainly be easier to customise.
    1 point
  24. When they arrive chuck them straight in the skip. Will save you the time and effort fitting them and then removing them when the chrome has rusted off within weeks. I made the mistake of buying some 15 years ago, lasted a matter of months. I may try either Monroe or Britpart Cellular Dynamic on my series with Rocky Mountain Parabolics next. I fitted Cellular Dyanmics on my 90 two years ago as a stopgap as Bilsteins were out of stock and they were uncharacteristically excellent, so much so I haven’t actually fitted the Bilsteins to it yet!
    1 point
  25. They may be a different brand, but I had a cheap set that seemed absolutely fine but had a dark brown tinge, rather than pure black, a bit like liquorice! They’d have been fine if I’d been willing to paint them - they were a good fit and their shape was good. I can’t imagine there are many manufacturers of these things out there, so there is a fair chance they’re the same brand.
    1 point
  26. Well done. The belt isn’t too bad a job, but unfortunately you do need to remove the water pump on the 200, so make sure you get that gasket too. I’d get the idler pulley, too, as the bearing does wear and affect belt alignment, and you probably don’t know when that’s was replaced. Zeus Engineering, who make lovely stainless calliper pistons for disc brakes LRs, and a decent but relatively frugal disc brake conversion for Series LRs, also make (or used to make) a timing gear system for the Tdi. It’s supposed to mean you never have to service the timing system again, but it’s reputed to be very noisy and have a tendency to shear the alignment dowel off the cam shaft, so I’d stick with the original system and just buy decent quality belts (Dayco are the OEM).
    1 point
  27. Continent goes this way, UK can decide where they want to go. I'm not getting into the whole Brexit thing. Totally not interesting - just work Not better, not worse. Just a different way.
    1 point
  28. Why not just stick with the 200Tdi? There is no real advantage going 300, some would say the opposite.
    1 point


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