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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/20/2021 in all areas

  1. My old day job was developing the Delphi diesel injectors for trucks. This included specifying and writing the coding requirements for them. Known as trimming the injectors. Also included teaching the trimming process within Delphi. Bosch and Delphi run similar systems for trimming. I've also done work for Denso and theirs are done a different way, no where near as good! You can run the injectors without inputting the codes without worrying about damage to the engine. The injectors are tested on an end of line test rig. The test plan runs the injector at set logics. Logics are just how long the signal going to the injector is - example: 500us, 750us, 1000us etc.... Record the fuel at each point and then compare to a master injector, or ideal fuel performance. The performance has to be within a certain range before any trimming is done. You can't use the trimming process to correct a 'bad' injector. So uncoded they can't be that far out - but far enough to affect emissions and fuel economy. Then you use the deviations from the ideal fuelling performance to creating the coding. That's the simple explanation, the detail is very complicated and very few people in either Delphi or Bosch understand the detail well enough to create new trimming set ups. Hopefully that makes sense. If anyone want's more detail or has got questions I'll have a go at answering them.
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  2. Will take some pictures later and show everyone the issues I'm having.
    2 points
  3. Also, I’m guessing that this is the issue.......
    2 points
  4. Made it! Set out at 10, arrived just after 3. Now to decide if this disco is worth fixing.
    2 points
  5. I really needed to get out and have a bit of a break. So took the OneTen out for a spin. Found a place for the lunch break.. Met with a group of German / Russian occupied LR's who saw me parked in the shades and asked if they could join me for lunch.. Of course they could and this "lunch meet" ran into the afternoon as we enjoyed the P&Q, talked about life in general and had a good time. Based in Germany, they usually go into RU to visit friends & family but not now. So they made do with a "round the Alps Tour" but found the driving not as much fun as they'd hoped. Always interesting to see how people from fifferent countries can unite when they have LR's in common. We eventually broke up - they are a good bunch and we had a lot of laughs - aswell as some serious talks- and I went up a bit for the night as I'd planned where to sleep. These clouds come from the Suza valley where it is hot and the air goes up and over the dam where the Cenis Reservoir water cools the hot air off and you end up in wet & cold clouds / fog very quickly. You literally see the clouds forming for your eyes while you sit there. Obviously, food was needed so the burner came out. I'd left most of the kitchen home as it was only 1 night away this time so please excuse the messy rear. Next morning it was time to go home again...🙄 All-in-all, some 1,100 kms. - or about 700 miles - in a day and a half without problems. Going into the Alps again in September for a Birthday Bash ($%^$@%^$#^@#^% Virus disclaimer applies...) and that could be very cold... P.S. For the very few that wonder (I doubt it though....) where the OneTen lift up roof is.... In the workshop, awaiting the Mrs. to find time to modify the fabric. Once that is done, it is roof swop day and getting the fabric in. Hope to show some pics late this year but work keeps getting in the way..
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  6. Has it dried out and shrunk from being in storage for so long
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  7. Your welcome, 2 old guys helping each other
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  8. Took these left side above & below number plate area
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  9. Hoperfully these are in order with the above original post
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  10. Well didn't get round to the wiring today but did some bits on the dash , just couldn't resist . Managed to get these plastic washers of eBay , thought they'd protect the vinyl , then I decided that I wanted to cover the bulkhead behind the dash with the lining carpet , which took a while as I first had to remove the door stay brackets which are a stretch when the doors are on , and sound proofed the lower dash bit , whoops some surface rust there hadn't spotted that . Then fitted the speakers , and fitted the dash properly , it was at this point that I realised that I'd forgotten the carpet retainer strips under the dash , so had to unscrew it and slot them in. Then after a bit of a tidy up and various little jobs I started on the heater box bits , came up with this to sit in the dash and attach the ducting to , it slides in from the engine bay side using the original bulkhead hole surround and I was thinking of using this to seal the bottom edge , the original seal is not good and makes it a bugger to fit the heater box , after a few goes today I decided that it had to go . But I now thinking of welding a tunnel up that joins from the part in the pic above and into the hole in the heater box .
    1 point
  11. That’s a fair bet yep 😊 Worth fixing sooner rather than later, it’s been known for the handbrake cable to act as a surrogate earth with melty results!
    1 point
  12. Here’s the seals direct one fitted
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  13. I keep getting as far as the 'complete purchase' button and then think 'oh, but would x be better than y'!! Its between XD and Richards. XD don't seem keen on communication, a few people have said they have had problems with Richards
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  14. Not sure. It was @DefenderFixer who had my two old units. I dont know how he got on with them either.
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  15. That doesn't suprise me. They can send cars out with the steering wheel on one side and the pedals on the other. Do you remember the story about the Fiesta in for service. A disc brake on one front wheel and a drum on the other BUT that was discovered on the SECOND service
    1 point
  16. That's not quite correct. The new G-wagon (released in 2018) is an all new design, made to look like an old design. Mercedes had engineers design the doors in such a way that closing the doors sounds exactly like it did on the old G-wagon. The orginal G-wagon (the W461 as they call it) is still in production as the 'Professional'. It's not available in all markets, and it doesn't have any of the bling. Old and new are both produced in Austria.
    1 point
  17. If both gauges are reading high all of a sudden it could be an earth fault.
    1 point
  18. Was out all day in the landy today done over 100 mile and the shock are great not a massif improvement on normal driving but you notic a big difference going over speed bumps but would come into thier own when off road for peeps into off roading😃
    1 point
  19. OK Welcome to the wonderfull world of tuning MS ! There is something that is now coming up over and over again as a basic issue, which I will add to the next modifications of the buold manual, and that is PWM Control Its one of those things that is tricky to explain, but I'll have a go again for all PWM - Pulse Width Modulation = in english - An autochoke to help start up from cold, AND a natty little unit that helps maintain tickover A few techy bits 1. Its programmable !. Unlike the "Stepper" on the std engine where it jumps the revs up, then steps down and then again etc until tickover the Bosch unit I supply is programmable !. So although I pop some basic values in there which will sort out and staert most V8s from cold to warm with a linear reduction in rpm (ie warmer it gets the lower the revs become until it is at tickover) you CAN with some fine tuning get the cold starting to be even sweeter than my "Best guess sort of fits all" settings. 2. Tickover control Ok, this is a real benifit to off road. Your coinmg down a slope, feet off everything low low rom, and as you reach the bottom you fans kick in etc / and the engine stalls, the reason is that the extar call of amps has dropped the engine RPM momentarily and its gonme and stalled. The PWM control stops this by having the ECU control the tickover within a set frange - guess what - rnage is programmable too 3. So, you can set MS to maintain tickover at lets say 860 rpm and the valve will then sense with the ECU engine rpm at lo revs and helps ensure the tickover is mainatained, it does this by adding in an ammount of extar air which then helps the engine recover etc. 4. On start up from cold the unit is set to (i set to 85%) of it opening, and then the ecu controls how much air vs rpm vs temp of engine it needs.IT POWEERS shut !! So, in simple terms a tickover controller and a cold start unit Now the fun bits............. 5. The PWM control reads directly off the VE table. So, lets say you have a cell value it reads of say 40, and the WUE (warm up enrichment table (Programmable and set by me with best guess for engine type) says oooh at this temp I would like 130% of fuelling please = the ECU allowing the VE table not to give 40 of fuel but 40 + 130% = 52 "Units". Now When you go out and tune, MLV or tuner studio will remap the VE table to give you what it belives is a more accurate MSQ / VE than my best guess (hold that thought for a while -( calling this HTT !!) ) and rewrites the VE table accordingly. Ooops ! lets say that on the retune the software decides that the table that was 40 was far far too rich, and rewrites it to 30. Ok, engine seems fine, but then when you start from cold the program now says "brrrr I am cold, I want 130% of 40 please.... er......sorry 30 please = 39...very different to the 52 before tuning.. So, be aware tuning VE table will cause issues with WUE table. To sort if you know the WUE was nice, then on the example above it won't be it was 130 on 40 and was lovely and that was 52 units its now 30 should be 52, to get the same then alter WUE for that value to rebalance ie 30 and 130% = 39, wnat 52 change to 175% and not 130 and hey presto WUE is back on - or you can do it manually by starting from cold and then increasing the cells until it "Seems Right (HTT again) " Similarly tickover setting will be altered, and the PWM control may be off target now the VE table is changed in the cells it "Liked (HTT() - as such you might wnat to just reenter the cells where the entire engine was hapy on tickover vs what MLV or Tuner stuido is saying ... (HTT) Now, the tricky bit PWM control is a POWERED CLOSED. this means simply DISCONNECTING THE PWM and then going tunining WILL NOT WORK IF YOU DISCONNECT THE PWM THE UNIT IS OPEMN and will allow air in, when you have remapped and reset the VE table, and reconnect the PWM power it will CLOSE and the engine will be all over the place inc tickover and general running. YOU MUST REMOVE the PWM COMPLETELY - either via removing the PWM value and blocking the 2 x hose ends with a bung OR removing everything and putting the std hose back on which is ALSO BLOVKEDE INTERNALLY THEN you can go tune. Er there is more. Before trying to tune the VE Table with PWM control, and even after you have removed / blanked off the Hose links you must 6. Calibrate the TPS (Megatune > Tools>Calibrate TPS>burn to ECU Top box aim for say 10-30 bottom box 250-350 perfection is say 5 and 340 ish ! NOW you must check the ignition timing on the crank pulley vs what MS is saying, if they do not match either retrim the wheel until they do or change internally Spark>spark settings > trim + just add the number and if you wnat minus you must add - ie 5 less would be "-5" plus 3 would be "3" 7. before you tune the VE you MUST set the butterfly to get the tickover base setting right before tuning and DEFO before connecting the PWM With PWM blocked etc turn the screw on the top of the plenum where the butterfly is and set the tickover to what feels right I use 840-860 autos maybe a tad more. You cannot do the above unless the engine is warm, hot is even better. 8. You should now understand that you must balnk off PWM to set tickover, without doing this the PWM will try to compensate as you alter the screw and the butterfly, net result will be a mess ! 9. YOU CANNOT TUNE IN ANY WET WEATHER - even driving through a puddle will chill the lambda and send wrong values and screw up your tuning, its gotta be dry guys !! 10. If the engine is super rich, say something big time wrong, or say CTS fails, then tuning may richen it even more !! 11. Too rich feels like too lean So what does HTT mean ??...HOLD THAT THOUGHT MLV is damned brilliant - in some ways Tuner studio even more so, but in some ways not. You have to LOOK at what the engine VE is being altered to and think why, siometimes you may find a human number added from say a value that it tickover happy with is nicer than what the software thinks, you can get the odd value creep in, So some basica for tuning VE Plugs NGKBR6RES and gasped properly NO and I mean NO EXHAUST LEAKS - lambda will be waaaay off Butterfly and tickover set with PWM REMOVED and BLANKED OFF Tickover checked and verfified as correct against MS DRY weather no puddles Check all gauges on Megatune are working Concentrate on Tickover and timing and PWM removed and then VE table tune Then reset VE to give Tickover THEN add Pwm in and reprogram PWM values if required along with WUE table Lastly When you tune you can ONLY match the datalog with the MSQ being tuned. When you have run the log and uploaded the new MSQ uits the NEW msq that you then relog, the OLD MSQ and the OLD Datalog are now irrelevent in the tuning process. MS creats dreadfull fiole names - I use date - Time - where ie 23rd Oct13 MSQ 1 Motorway run.msq Call the Dta log the same and then I know what goes with what. NEVER run a log and then apply to any other MSQ than the on it has logged from !! There is a huge amount on tuning basics in the MS Forum index thread here that I have popped in over the years worth a read for any tuner to be Hope this helps nige
    1 point
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