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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/25/2021 in all areas

  1. A few months on after the rewire, I am happy that all is working well and reliably but for anyone reading this thinking of doing a complete rewire I want to be open and honest with a few things of doing it in standard form... What have I discovered along the way and what would I do differently knowing what I know now? A huge positive is I feel I have a far better understanding of the electrical system on my 110 and better placed to find faults in the future. The biggest thing however is I fear I might have missed an opportunity to customise things better. Think very carefully about this statement if you are considering a rewire yourself. I rewired pretty much as standard, following the same wiring colour codes as original. I did build in a few small modifications such as relays to the dipped/undipped head lights and modern connectors. On the connector front, I like econoseal but I'm not as fond of the superseal. I also think some connectors on the original loom are unnecessary potential points of failure as some have pointed out in this thread @Sigi_H at time I didn't agree but I have come round to this way of thinking now. I would certainly eliminate the connections to the engine loom and the rear loom if I did this again. Even to the lights, thinking if I needed to remove them I could then cut the wires and add in a connector at that point. The biggest thing I have since discovered are hand held label printers that actually print on heat shrink allowing you to permanently label individual wires - wow, game changer! Had I have known this from the start I think I would have just bought big reels of cable of just a few solid colours say 4 or 5 and then labelled each individual wire at both ends rather than learning (and forgetting) what green with a black trace means etc... I also think I should have given more thought to fuses. I'm not happy with the amount of unfused lives in the standard wiring. This I am going to address and not leave as standard. I want to eliminate all unfused lives in the loom. The obvious place to start is the glow plug feed, but I also want to fuse the main supply to the ignition switch. I'm thinking one off the shelf method to do this is to fit a maxi/midi fuse box somewhere on the bulkhead or in the battery box for this job. I'm just looking for some advice from those that have done this before. Is this a sensible idea? Anyone done this a better way? What size fuses should I be looking at for the feed to the ignition switch? The feed to the starter motor is also unfused. Is this a silly idea? Has anyone put a fuse to the starter motor? If so what size?
    2 points
  2. >b. Could the valve from the fuel pump to the fuel filter via the distribution head be faulty, or blocked – should I crack it and see if fuel is coming out? (Pipe 7 on diagram) Yes! That's where I'd start. If the pump is wirring, but there's nothing at this point, it could be the gause filters on the pump being clogged. You have to remove the pump to find out - and if it's not the filters, it must be the pump! While the pump may have a 20A fuse, it's unlikely to draw more than a few amps. I'd try it with your 10A meter which will likely have a 10A slow-blow fuse inside. If it reads over 10A, so long as you disconnect quickly, it won't blow the fuse. If there is pressure at Pipe 7, change the filter. It's possible it's no good (particularly if a patterned part)
    1 point
  3. Lift pump , it sounds like lack of supply Steve
    1 point
  4. remove the outer/inner wing assembly complete, disconnect the wiring from front lights, & remove the lights, remove the grille & bolts to the wing inner panel, I did my RHD right front wing a while ago, my post is below, it might help,
    1 point
  5. i think i need to investigate some more , so far i have found lots of different partnumbers (with lot's of superceded numbers with them) , and some info even mention that 3 and 4 bolt droparms are the same .... i did found the QFW000030 .
    1 point
  6. Yes, exactly. Full full/main beam is what I am referring to by undipped.
    1 point
  7. The dim dip thing is annoying and in my opinion added unnecessary complication to what should be fairly simple (I understand it used to be a UK requirement). This is how I rewired my lighting circuit eliminating traces of the dim/dip stuff... Brown live feed to the light switch. Red wire goes to the fuse box for the left and right tail/side lights plus an off shoot going to the "lights on" dash lamp. Blue goes to the dipped/undipped switch on the stalk and also a piece off to power the rear fog switch and fuse (blue/purple up to the fog lamp fuse). From the dip/undip stalk switch, blue/red is for the dipped beam to the fuse box. Blue/white is for undipped to the fuse box with a piece off to the dash lights to illuminate the undipped warning lamp
    1 point
  8. Yes I think so, that would agree with the wiring diagrams above, my dim dip is removed & the 5 wires in its plug are disconnected, it doesn't affect any other system,
    1 point
  9. The round plug is the efi pump wiring so just tape it up out the way
    1 point
  10. Haha. Yup. I came to a similar conclusion some years ago!
    1 point
  11. Note the tapering off of the penetration heat zone , the further you go in one run the more likelihood of cold lap as red90 says . Chopping a few practice pieces across the weld and bending the sample along the weld will help to show you what you are getting . It looks like you are getting close to it . cheers Steve b
    1 point
  12. Thoughts please 😗 What on Earth?!?!?!
    0 points


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