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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/06/2021 in all areas

  1. Finally getting somewhere with the fuel issue. I stripped the wiring loom down to check for any faults within it as the problem was related to the engine being at running temperature. I found nothing in this area and re wrapped certain areas in fibreglassed wrap with metal cable ties and heat resistant cloth tape. Finding nothing I moved onto the next idea which was to install a clear fuel line from the last elbow of the fuel line to the rear of the hp fuel pump in the hope that I could see air being introduced to the fuel line, thus maybe finding an issue before the fuel pump. I rigged up the line into the cab and went for a drive and this was the result; As you can see, there is lots of air being introduced when under load. After finding this I rigged up a temporary fuel tank in the passenger side and took it for a spin No issue whatsoever ever The next step is to replace the fuel lines working back from the engine ( the ones from filter to tank were replaced when I did the aux tank ) Mentally you think there is an issue with something you've done...having the engine out and rebuilding it, there's always the thought I may have done something wrong or cocked up somewhere, it's nice to find out the problem is something of a coincidence and nothing to do with what I did with the rebuild. Although the problem isn't solved, I'm happy it's not the engine ;)
    3 points
  2. It's a big chunk of cash so hadn't really 'announced' it as such. Just been lucky with overtime coupled with spending less in the last year to be able to have the cash to buy it. I did sit down and draw one of my own design (that said, they're all so similar) during first lockdown. But the chap who makes these buys the steel in such quantities it was close enough to just buy rather than build. It's also a pile of steel that wouldn't fit in the mini to get it home . I also went for the assembled option as it was surprisingly little on top (around £150) of the £1600 mark for the table, 2x 500mm long wings, the bench dogs, 4 clamps and the 4 rapid squares - palletised delivery included. I figured that as I haven't even got a flat floor I'd worry too much about the assembly if I was doing it and with work being busy weeked wise at the moment I wasn't really missing out as such paying for it rather than my own design/build/assembly.
    3 points
  3. Neat! My Clarke bandsaw has the most crappy machine-mart sharp-edged wobbly base with no handles and is always in the bl**dy way of something, plus it's an awkward unbalanced lump, this looks far nicerer! Depends if it has special attachments for power tools and ratchet straps
    2 points
  4. Final part of the puzzle, sticking the castor mounts on the bottom. I did wonder afterwards about whether they should have been a bit further out to the outside edge but I was trying to minimise how much the castors stick out when they swing round whilst still being able to get to the brake. Castors bolted on. And on its wheels on the floor! Not got the saw on it yet. Need to drag the old man up there at some point for a hand lifting it. Going to leave it bare for the moment and use it and when its had some use and hasn't needed any changes I'll throw it in with a powder coating order. Useful bit of extra storage too. Will probably put my metal offcuts under there I think. It also might want a crossmember by the saw bolt holes to stop it flexing so will see how that goes before it is coated.
    2 points
  5. Back last year, around the end of the first lockdown I think it was, I bought a second hand vertical bandsaw that I couldn't say no to. It's a slightly older, but solid machine - only trouble being its about half way between a benchtop and a freestanding saw. Basically I needed to kneel down to use it! It's also the sort of thing I don't need access to all the time so wanted it mobile. Hour or so one evening and came up with this. It's roughly 500mm tall + 70mm or so for the castor height. Then its about 550x700 from memory. 20mm box frame and as the saw is heavy, the panels are all 3mm to add a bit of weight. Perfect little fab project to test drive the new fixture table and keep me busy at the workshop while waiting for stuff on the 90 and crucially... whilst still being hacked off with the rear tub and not wanting to touch it, doing something interesting and productive but still at the workshop. So please FFS leave out the comments on this not being work on the 90 and either enjoy a fab project for what it is or scroll on by. Ordered a pile of steel cut to length from the stockholder next door to work, and ordered some extra lengths of 20mm box and angle for stock. Helpful having a mate with a big van and a unit on the same farm - Thanks Colin. Also fired off the panels to my friendly laser chap. First job when the laser stuff came in was to weld up the castor mounts. Done in two layers as I had a load of stuff being cut in 3mm to start with already and they fitted in the waste rather than having to put a different sheet in the laser cutter. Done with the old Thermal Arc TIG before the new one arrived. One pile of cut tubes: Pile of prepped tubes. I'm sure I keep saying it, but for prep like this a little 90Deg die grinder is perfect. Doesn't obliterate the metal like a 4.5" grinder and light enough for easy one-handed use.
    1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. Both are 2.5 litre turbo diesel engines. The 19J in standard form is 85hp and 203Nm. The Td5 is 122hp and 300Nm. These figures suggest that something isn't right, maybe you had very large tyres on your discovery or an engine problem.
    1 point
  8. The amplifier is on side of the dizzy at that age, but if you have spark at the right time (messed with the leads/dizzy recently?) and easy start it should fire. Unless you have a mechanical problem, but I assume you have checked for big holes in the block by now
    1 point
  9. Yup, Mac Industries . Service was great! Turned up missing the packet of shoulder bolts to align the wings and they had replacements with me by the following day no quibble . They were the most forthcoming when I put some feelers out about getting one. I wanted the custom wings to make it into a 2000x1000 table and they were the only ones willing. Table on its own is about same floor real estate as the stack of 37" treps and I can then add the wings when ever I need them (with assistance as they're not light.
    1 point
  10. Had a productive afternoon, the 109" is now up on stands.... with it sitting in storage I didn't want the tyres forming a memory in the sidewalls from sitting all this time in one spot so... Nice n simple they hold the tyres about 2"s in the air... made from my offcuts pile and a small amount from my steel rack While I was at it I finished off a parts trolly/storage rack, with doing the work away stuff I start something mechanical, get it pulled apart, workout whats wrong and a solution and then I've had to go to work.... my memory isn't very good and often when I come back I have a jigsaw puzzle of parts spread over things and a general idea so I end up loosing alot of time while I puzzle out the jigsaw of parts.... as well as loosing time I also seem to loose bolts, even if I don't go near it bolts seem to disapear? So the idea with these trolleys is everything goes onto the trolley in organizer tubs, they get stacked in order, there will be whiteboard markers on the trolley so I can right notes on the tubs as well and they are on casters so if parts are slow or I have to do something else... I can trundle them under a bench so hopefully bolts don't disapear lol Didn't get this one painted till after dark so Pic's tomorrow
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. One of the best things I have done to my 110 was to fit the 1.2 transfer box. My TD5 has been tweaked by a former owner but pulls the gearing and our trailer well and is much quieter and nicer to drive long distance now. An overdrive would be better but was too expensive!
    1 point
  13. Training up a new apprentice..... I'll start with training her to find the veniers, then move onto the 10mm spanner No lol this is one of the new ideas..... got more coming Going to finish off a few things around the shop first, just little things that have been annoying me and I have the potential to over engineer lol about to take the bike in there now so I'll throw up some pic's later tonight when I finish the design on the foundry
    1 point
  14. Back in my workshop...... Covid kept me in Australia, got talked into going over to help out work, plan was a 10 week stint (including the 2 weeks of isolation in a hotel when I returned to NZ) I'd previously handed my notice due to the Covid restrictions on travel lol..... Almost 5 months later I'm home! Couldn't get a booking in a covid hotel in NZ, no booking no flight.... but I'm home and repeatedly told work not again! So going to take some time off and do some stuff in the shed.... with staying away in hotels I watched too much Youtube lol really shouldn't watch that sort of thing I get ideas
    1 point
  15. I was going to just buzz round the outside corners with the MIG and then round it off with a flap disc but habit got the better of me and out came the TIG . Loving the oversized ceramic on the TIG torch as it means you can hang the tungsten right out. When it gets a bit hot and you have to ditch the rod: Public Service announcement... don't let rip in an air fed helmet Once all the outside corners were done, I then TIGed round the front face too. ~100A and a 2.4mm rod to get the metal in there quickly.
    1 point
  16. Missed a picture with the rapid squares and all the clamps on but it makes it so much nicer to have firstly a flat surface to clamp stuff to, and secondly to have a jig to recreate multiples. In this case I made two of these. The short side being the vertical corners of the cart. and the long side being the long side of the cart. So two of these. Dropped in and jigged the two previous frames vertically and popped in two of the other pieces. I then looked at adding the other two, started this way, but then decided I was better off turning it up the other way and repeating the previous setup. ...which worked a treat! Until I then came across a silly issue I firstly put down to a slight discrepancy in tube lengths I had a couple of bits which didn't quite sit right for some reason. Having come from working with clamps and a tape measure with jobs like this just hanging out of the vice I never gave a first thought, let alone a second, to the tacks. They were enough to offset some of the joints by about 2mm where one side of the joint was sat on a tack and the other clamped to the table. So I think 3 corners I had to cut out and rewelded.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. Started it 5 minutes ago after filling the coolant this afternoon. Suspension raised to full height and manged to reverse it about 6 inches. Couldn't reverse any further as it is on my trailer and the steering wheel is not fitted so should be able to reassemble the front end i.e. bumper and intercooler scoop before doing the airbags. Making good progress will soon be ready for painting.
    1 point
  19. I’d say that if you tow much or drive heavily laden, a 1.4 unit would be best, especially if you have anything on the roof, but a 1.2 should do well behind a mildly tweaked TD5 if the car is normally “clean”, even with NZ topography.
    1 point
  20. Beautiful photos, please, keep them coming
    1 point
  21. A bit of an update. About a year after completing the bench tests, and one short try-out in another car, I've finally got 'round to fitting the all relays controller to my P38. After another 8 months or so of using it with the rebuilt engine but without low gear... Which meant the clutch already got a hard time with a heavy trailer on soft ground and especially when pulling a broken down L322 up on the trailer (much easier and faster than using the hand winch, with a smell of clutch instead of sweat). Yesterday my Range Rover was in the Shop to fit an EAS override, something I could do in between videomeets without getting (too) dirty. I had a bit of time left and had noticed the controller still sitting on the shelve. So after a quick check to make sure the mechanisme was moving freely and the motor would spin when applying 12V directly I popped it in. Worked like a charm, really should have done this a long time ago! And I should make a decent wiring diagram, for future use and for anyone else who'd like to have a go. Now, on to the rest of the long list of unfinished stuff... That is if I don't get distracted and buy another sporty toy this week. 😁 Filip
    1 point
  22. I think here is the crux of the matter; I don't want to spend £60k, nor I am prepared to accept £60k car repair bills! Manufacturers love to sell £60k cars because the margin for them is much greater than on a cheaper vehicle. The economic margin between success and failure is much wider. That they can screw you on the repairs and servicing afterwards is icing on the cake! I am looking for a durable car, say 20-30 years, as I am a believer in "Reduce, reuse, recycle" and believe that consumerism is wasteful, ultimately a dead end for humanity. My 110 and 90 are currently the best fit for that objective I can find; there is nothing in the current JLR product range that comes close.
    1 point
  23. I think that is probably an understatement in terms of sales lost. I look at a D3, D4 or D5 and just see a vehicle I cannot fix without a big 2 post lift. The new Defender is just the same; these are not vehicles built for an extended working life but to last to the end of a PCP. I don't buy disposable vehicles, so if it won't last 20-30 years, I don't want it. The JLR dealers don't help; LR independents thrive as the dealers are often hopeless at fault repairs and are always pricey. I appreciate that I am not the target customer, but I know I am not the only one dissuaded by the excessive complexity and cost of modern vehicles. A Dacia is much more attractive as a working tool as it is basic to the point of austerity and the price point is very attractive, with OK to good build quality.
    1 point


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