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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/2021 in all areas

  1. It's not just deposits, often the whole cost of the vehicle is paid up front by bank transfer. I know that seems stupid but they usually come up with a very convincing story as to why it's better for them to have the car delivered to you by courier. They do it with everything from high end camera gear to earth movers, they are making a lot of money. Camper vans seem the most popular. If you are bored you can do some scambaiting and go as far as getting the bank details for the transfer. Once you've done that pass them on to the facebook group and they'll get the bank account frozen if they can. The same account is usually used for multiple scams as they can be hard to get setup, so when it's frozen you may actually stop them getting money they've already scammed from someone else.
    4 points
  2. Got the heavy lifting gear in... sorry... the old man in and got it up on the trolley. Not used it yet, but the height seems spot on Bolted down with 4 random length M12 bolts I happened upon. Will sort some better ones that actually reach through the nyloc when it gets pulled off for coating at a later date
    3 points
  3. Well that's also a good idea However if this is the only weakness on a reasonably-priced shock it's not so bad - I'm sure back in the day Dirtydiesel was re-welding tops on ProComps before even fitting them as they were still OK for the money.
    2 points
  4. Haha, or buy a decent brand in the first place. I hear nothing good about Terrafirma
    2 points
  5. Love the "tacti-cool" gear, definitely a certain type of person who has that stuff all over their truck Personally I'd say a seat cover doesn't feel like the place to be storing large heavy lumps of metal like a fire extinguisher... either that or your fire extinguisher is too damn small to be worth bothering with.
    2 points
  6. So... to expand, you can just use a water temp gauge in the oil temp hole (the label is on the surround, not the gauge) and use a water temp sender in the sump, and job's a good 'un
    2 points
  7. I had this issue some years back, tried several brands of the bushes, gave up and made some from Bronze, linkage has been spot on ever since.
    2 points
  8. Good day All, I have a really noddy question but as I refuse to take part in some of the more.... aesthetically-focussed forums, hopefully people here have experience. I want a seat organiser, I am primarily looking at one for the passenger seat but if they come in pairs then I'm sure I'll find a use. My main reason is that I will have two or three things I will always be carrying; an X-Defend gearstick lock, a steering wheel lock and a fire extinguisher and I want to properly secure them in case of the worst happening. I am mostly trying to secure the X-Defend as it might not be realistic for a seat organiser to hold a disklock or a fire extinguisher and I can find alternatives (quick fists, load bay tie-downs) for those. I like the look of this one by Inka (who make genuine seat covers) and the pouches seem to be a good size for a X-Defend but they don't appear to have clasps (I assume magnetic closing) and I could do without the HUE logo but that's being fussy. I'm just not confident in placing a big, heavy bit of metal in these and there is no scope for any additional items. Available Here So with this elegant, classical look in mind, I've been searching for something a bit more secure. Unfortunately this results in something like this by Terrafirma: Available Here Or this: Available here These are relatively expensive for what they are, especially the latter as it comes with no pouches but because of that, do give a lot of flexibility in how you can configure them. However, as I am not looking to overthrow a democratically elected government any time soon, I don't need to strap down my AR15 in this (frankly irresponsible) way. MOLLE pouches are great if you need them but I would prefer something a bit more in keeping with the non-military look I'm going for. So, what is there in a similar theme but alternatives to the above? If MOLLE is the way to go then so be it, I just want to see what else is around.
    1 point
  9. I just put my gearstick lock in the cubby box Sam. Mo
    1 point
  10. I’m getting there
    1 point
  11. Have you looked through Military Mart? I've linked to Bags & Holdalls, but I seem to recall they have a wide range of 'stuff' that might be adapted to fulfill your need. Some of the prices seem to give good starting points for experimenting. I've looked, but never bought, yet. I seem to recall there is another place that will either make from scratch or adapt / personalise with a name or description you create, but I don't recall ... inspiration struck, details in a topic in the Series 2 Club Forum are now out of date. Matt, Guy Ropenall and Counter Rivet are all alter egos of the same person. Having looked a little harder, his website is rubbish, you will be best advised to contact him via an eBay ad and strike up a direct conversation. You will have to decide what you want before anyone can make / adapt it for you. Regards.
    1 point
  12. they are the same, its just the short R380 one thats about 5mm shorter Dave
    1 point
  13. My daughter bought my wife a Queen Mummy mug for Mother’s Day and that started leaking after a few days! On a different subject, I stopped an annoying drip from a toilet cistern with rad seal and a kettle full of hot water!
    1 point
  14. I'm bitterly disappointed by this thread. I was expecting to hear tales of hair raising high speed shenanigans in a totally unsuitable vehicle 😁
    1 point
  15. Those 3-in-1 gauges were standard for MoD SIIIs, certainly all the FFRs had them. I got a similar one with modern gauge innards (no need for the original voltage stabiliser) from Holden Vintage and Classic. It has fuel in the bottom arc, oil temp on one side and coolant temp on the other (left and right respectively, if I remember correctly). It wasn’t cheap, but it has been perfect in operation. Mine is 12v, but I think it is available in 24v. I repaired the 24v oil temp gauge on my wife’s Lightweight FFR with a new gauge in the old cluster, and it had an electrical sender in the left side of the sump close to the oil cooler return like Bowie is saying. On my 109 with the Holden gauges, I added a temperature sender to the oil filter housing of the 12J and later 200Tdi oil filter housing.
    1 point
  16. Some further work. all the wood cut, cargo rails installed. Just need to stick and screw. (I am also going to make an insert for when the seats are folded forward.
    1 point
  17. That is the root run, just showing full penetration of the flange. They were welded out (multiple passes)
    1 point
  18. Thanks, and I hope so. With limited budget , equipment and materials you can only have strong OR light, not both. 32x10 top and bottom flanges. 2x 4mm plate webs with 20mm separation. 4mm plate laminations (I still have to do them at axle end). All flanges to eye bosses are full penetration welds
    1 point
  19. Maybe you need to do this stop stop the leak
    1 point
  20. I bought a new pintle , found some safety chain clevis pin and blocks from a Perenti and have done a little more design work on my rear cross member. I also picked up the parts from the electroplaters.
    1 point
  21. I got a few little things done of late. I managed to get up to Maxidrive and order my new axle shafts for front housing. Ill also be getting them to custom make some drive flanges. I finished the drag link and track rod tapping and slitting. The small groove indicates the left hand thread. They will be electro plated. I also picked up a Series drop down tail gate (my tub didnt come with one). And Ive started the drawings for my rear cross member. I still have to sort our trailer chain lugs, recovery points and jack hole locations. Ill get the main C section laser cut and folded for this. Most things I cut by hand but this is one Ill farm out. I should probably buy the new pintle to make sure bolt centres are the same as my old flogged out one. shipping is going to suck.
    1 point
  22. A couple boring pics, but just to illustrate that one change makes many, and when you are doing everything by hand, it takes longer again lol. Im very lucky to have a mate with a small lathe that lets me use it and gives me guidance on it. No DRO so the true definition of manual machining 😆 Tapping the new drag link (I still have to tap the track rod and then cut/slit both) and the spacers. The spacers moved too much in the vice so I clamped the housing vertically to the side of my bench and bolted the spacer to it. You may notice the large chamfer on the corner of rebate for swivel ball spigot. This is to use a O ring around the swivel spigot and hopefully avoid a gasket. Only time will tell on that one.
    1 point
  23. I had to remove the spring mounts to have good access to the weld at flanges. Back on they went.
    1 point
  24. New A frame cross member with end plates incorporating link mounts. Cross member and body outriggers welded in. Some where along the line I sold the MD locked Sals, and built a custom rear Rover housing....madness right! 🤣
    1 point
  25. Then the rear fish plate, and new trailing arm mounts including strengthening, plus some little tie ins/bracings.
    1 point
  26. SO it sat for a couple of years while I took care of other things. When the dust had cleared I figured I could get into the modifications I had always wanted to do.... Starting with longer Radius arms. Chassis work first. 3mm fish plate, tying in with crossmember bolts. New RA mount and bracing.
    1 point
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