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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/18/2018 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Perhaps this might prompt some further musings... Short video clip
  2. 2 points
    I've seen a build thread on a forum many moons ago of a 88" leaf sprung comp safari build with the kv6 on throttle bodies in it , Was an in-depth build thread, Found it https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/alrc-project.160626
  3. 2 points
    Wow a long time ago 1992/3 maybe. Just after body removal and before hacking the rangy bits off the chassis. edit; I think that is just after it was shortened by 14”. We kept the outriggers on to use as measuring points.
  4. 2 points
    Just look at that bodywork, all saggy and rippled. Nothing new there then...
  5. 2 points
    Must be planning to sell it to women in the Middle East?
  6. 2 points
    Thanks for all the replies. I used the B+ terminal. The loom has two inline fuses to the relays so all good. It's made a huge difference to the headlights. They have gone from a feeble orange glow to white just like all those modern cars. Well impressed. Must admit, getting the alternator back in was a pain. Spent ages trying to line it up properly with the mount. got there in the end.
  7. 2 points
    So started modifying mog rims to tubeless home made flat bar rollers helping out as of now 3 done and another 2 to do
  8. 2 points
    Defnitel6 feels somewhat quieter in there now I’ve had a drive out today πŸ‘πŸ»
  9. 2 points
    Just thought I would update this topic, as I hate finding old ones with no answers when I'm looking for something. I got a mate to sanity check the timing belt set up for me, then took the injector pump to my local diesel injection specialist. long story short there wasn't much on it that wasn't knackered. One bill later, I should be picking it up on Friday. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the suggestions, tests, help etc
  10. 2 points
    MOT retest done at 4pm, Pass with no further issues. nice shiney new MOT cert in possesion may replace the left footwell after Xmas & cold weather has goon.
  11. 2 points
    As above, the fact that it's mostly original and in good condition gives it plenty of presence in the LR community πŸ‘
  12. 2 points
    Not tried it yet to be honest. I had driven it when just the front piece was in and it did feel quieter. As for warmth I can't really say just yet but as I've sorted the heater it warms up fairly quick now. It feels cosier and doesn't feel like you're sitting in an empty can now. Kit was from fleabay
  13. 2 points
    Just scanned the web for some pics of the Rubicon trail - came across this - room them six months to recover it 😲 Original forum post here if you have 20 mins to waste.. http://www.reno4x4.com/showthread.php/86444-Two-snowbound-rigs-on-Rubicon
  14. 2 points
    That is a rare vehicle, especially in that condition. Whatever you remove when you make your modifications, I would store the parts, somewhere clean and dry, so you can refit them in the future.
  15. 1 point
    Because people are cheapskates and don't think - people assume the genuine starter motor from the dealer is a "con" at Β£250 when one that looks the same in a Bosch box is only Β£150, and one that kinda looks the same in a blue box is Β£75...
  16. 1 point
    Not cheap - and complicated at times when driven 40 tonnes for pleasure but well worth it..
  17. 1 point
    The Aluminium floor in the rear tub was very thin and had work hardened, it was brittle and tearing in places, so we are replacing it with a thicker panel made from new material. This 80” came with wood put in between the chassis and the floor to support it - it’ll be nice to have it to original spec but strong enough to use. You may also spots the teaser of the wings back from paint ....😍 They look fabulous... the front end can be built up with the radiator now and then it can be fired up. I’m away for the weekend - but will get some pictures on Monday πŸ‘πŸ»
  18. 1 point
    Thanks, you'd think they would at least include a link to those instructions in the box. Didn't even know they had those available; Google didn't pull up anything on them. I was pretty sure they were correct, but wanted to be 100% sure.
  19. 1 point
    OK, thanks all, brilliantly bodged until next week when the rear chassis is being replaced and all of the wiring replaced with new end points and led lights etc rather than the birds next it currently is πŸ˜‰
  20. 1 point
    You need to get the basics right, block-off the PWM IAC pipes and see if you can get it idling steady with no IAC control, just the base fuel + ignition map - only then should you be worrying about the idle valve. The surging/stalling could easily be a simple setting in the PWM control but there is no point f***ing about if the engine won't idle on its own.
  21. 1 point
    It will come off but it won't fit under the chassis rails without being jacked up, or if you're on soft ground you could dig a channel πŸ˜‰ Yes 5/16 UNF thin nut, NT605041L
  22. 1 point
    Really enjoyed that one last night Butcher!
  23. 1 point
    Er, it doesn't have a steering rack. Mo
  24. 1 point
    Normal is blue/yellow wire to ECU, yours was re-using the Hotwire EFI loom so it should be whichever wire that was in the hotwire loom.
  25. 1 point
    I wrote this for another forum, I thought it might be useful here too. The hazard switch and indicators often cause problems in defenders, most commonly the indicators stop working, but the fault is actually with the hazard light switch. This post aims to explain how the hazard switch works, why it's malfunction stops the indicators working, and how to test for and diagnose the fault. To get to the back of the hazard switch, remove the two screws and pull the switch panel out. you'll then see this. The multi plug has 7 wires going into it, there's also the Black (red trace) and Black wires, which are connected directly to the switch body. these are for the indicator in the switch itself. Black(red) - indicator supply Black - earth Remove the multiplug, you will then see the two sets of pins, x3 and x4, top and bottom (as viewed in the photo, not as mounted in the dash). The top set are concerned with powering the flasher unit, the bottom set dictate what the flasher unit actually lights. This picture shows the 4 wires that connect to the bottom set of pins And this picture shows the 3 wires that connect to the top To make things easier to see, here is a schematic of the switch. With the Hazard switch in the 'off' position 'Suppy to flasher' is connected to 'Light switch supply' - which comes on with the second click of the ignition switch With the Hazard switch in the 'on' position 'Suppy to flasher' is connected to 'Permanent Supply' - 12vDC *Flash* is connected to 'Left Indicators', 'Right Indicators', and the 'Switch tell-tale' What this means is, if the switch is faulty, the flasher unit doesn't get a power supply, so it can't flash the indicators via the indicator switch on the column. You can test the switch using a multimeter (continuity or resistance), or test lamp. You can also test the vehicle wiring as follows. You will need a fused piece of wire (or test lamp), you don't want to risk a dead short if you get it wrong. This is what i made to test the wiring, the lowest value fuse i had was 5A. If you link 'permanent supply' (purple) to 'Left indicators' or 'Right indicators' the indicators on that side should light, constantly though, not flashing. this proves the bulb wiring is ok and you have supply to the loom plug. If you link 'permanent supply' (purple) to 'supply to flasher' (light geen), the indicator stalk switch should work the indicators as normal (flashing). The indicator switch is connecting *flash* to 'Left Indicator' or 'Right Indicator' - the wiring is duplicated at the stalk switch. If you want to make a seperate link wire you can replicate the stalk switch action at the loom plug as well. You can repeat the two tests above, using 'Light switch supply' instead of 'permanent supply', the ignition switch will need to be on the second click. 'Switch tell-tale' is the live supply to the bulb in the switch housing, it is grounded by the seperate black wire connected to the switch body.


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