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A 130 hi cap tub and defender cab fit perfectly on a 100” discovery chassis, just needs a frame to pick up on the body mounts to avoid any cutting of the chassis at all. I think I would have attempted to build it on a discovery 2 chassis if I didn’t already have the discovery 1.

I'd bet on the Lego model being pretty accurate! They have produced models based on three of the Movies I've worked on (Star Wars VIII, Fantastic Beasts 2 & Spiderman). In each case, the model has been based on actual drawings. In the case of Fantastic Beasts, from Special Effects Drawings I suspect. You see the circle on the top of the roof? There's one on the underside of the chassis too. They didn't appear in the film - because they were the mountings to attach it to a slew-ring on a motion Platform. (I designed the motion platform). That says to me that Lego have good access to drawings - and that the Lego model is likely to be pretty close! That being the case - I quite like it! Si P.S. Almost every rig I've designed has had a Land Rover part in it - guess it's what I know best!

After a long journey by car & boat, supported through people I have yet to meet, the roof hatch has arrived !!! Collected yesterday, and...... what a relief - it actually fits inside the roll cage !! 😂 Now it is time to think about the lifting mechaniscm.. Again, thanks you all !!!!

What a time was had...

Hi, Slightly different post from normal but I wanted to give Andy & his Landy a shout and hopefully spread his Mental Health & well-being message that it really is ok to talk no matter what it's about, but also, as a fellow Landy owner on a long distance trip with an elderly landy, offer some support if he requires it (which he has already). "Andy’s Landie is a vehicle for talking about mental health, strength and fitness, specifically for men. Andy bought his Series III 1973 Land Rover to overcome his flashback to a patient, trapped in a Land Rover after an IED attack, in Afghanistan. Andy is travelling around 999 bases and meeting lots of amazing people on his tour, talking about his own experiences and finding out about theirs. This is in support of the UK Search & Rescue Wellbeing & Resilience Framework, which is being pioneered by Mountain Rescue in Scotland. Andy is picking up passengers along his route and making a short film about their converstaions around Mental Health and Wellbeing. #itsoktotalk #chinwag" I met Andy as a member of Tweed Valley Mountain Rescue and also helped organise a convoy over the border up to Scotland as a member of Lothian 4x4 Response & our collegues in 4x4 North East. Andy was totally blown away by this. Having a chat is not just for those on the front line, everyone needs downtime and sometimes a chat is all it takes, whether it's with a friend, partner or a total stranger. It's really important to talk, which often, sadly comes too late. If you would like to meet up with Andy, grab a cuppa and have a chat then give him a shout at chinwag@andyelwood.com. Speak to a friend, your partner, a total stranger, or me (a stranger). I'm happy to chat, thankfully I chatted with someone and it's really helped. It's ok to be not ok.

Just an update. Ball joint had loads of play in it that was only really obvious once removed. The bushes on the A frame, although potentially 30 years old were really ok, but I changed them anyway. Amazing how easy this all was with a ramp and the right tools. All done in about an hour and the car is driving more normally now! D3 front lower arms to do next....

Had a quick kite at it myself at Goodwood today , all the time listening to some sexy young beards getting horny over it , I think it was the same herd of pretty young things getting wet when it went up the hill , not sure if they appreciated my mumblings although to be fair I was also moaning about the price of the feckin beer at the same time . On a brighter note , the Twisted stand was impressive but not as impressive as the Army lads hoofing around the forest rally track in some standard 90s who took the time to have a natter to my young grandson , hats off to them .

This long, long, drawn out peek a boo, drip, drip, drip of a debut is a real turn off. Nothing but BORING [to me] marketing bull-hype which does not excite me in the least, it's akin to a kids game and with that display JLR are doubtless hoping it has created an air of expectation and desire among the wannabe bush hat / canvas with leather trimmed man-bag crowd. Pathetic.

Have to rename him onebigshed!

Life got in the way again, now I can add to this saga...... The week while I was arguing with AutoDoc for replacement parts I ported the head and manifolds. What surprised me was the diameter difference between the gasket and the ports. Plus that they were not exactly lined up with each other. With a black marker I had a clear indication of where to begin removing material, a time consuming job but at the end of the day all the ports were inline with the gasket. Eventually AutoDoc sent out the replacement parts which did get into Sweden rather fast from Germany BUT flipping PostNord that's another can of worms. The package was in a terminal 80km from the house where it sat for 5 days!!! No number of calling or emailing helped in persuading those buggers in sending my parcel with the auto parts. When they did arrive, within minutes the final valve seal was installed and the head was on it's way out to the motor. 😃 When it came to the head bolts, it was time consuming and a bit difficult to keep track of the bolts so I organized and then numbered the heads of the bolts for easy of reassembly. 😉 With the head on I followed the instructions given above about torquing the head bolts. I was surprised how loose they were after the first round of setting them at 40Nm but after 2 times I was ready to move on to setting the angle degree's. .....So I bought a angle dial tool that I thought I could save a penny on, which worked perfectly on the first 10 bolts but when I got to #11, the damn dial seized itself to the center section never to work properly again!! 🤬 Man I introduced that POS to the bottom of the garbage can at a very high velocity! 😂 Thankfully my son who lives in the big city was driving by the house that day so he bought me a proper tool that I should have bought int first place. So typical of Sweden, if your working on your car outside in the driveway, it's going to rain 50% of the time your working on it. Plus the fact that I work nights, I only managed to get a few hours a day but after 3 days it was complete and running. OK, so what did I do to the engine, replaced the head gasket, replaced the valve seals, planned the head, ported the head and manifolds, ultra wave washed the injectors, replaced the injector copper washers, replaced the glow plugs while I was at it, installed valve caps that the engine didn't have for some unknown reason and turned the injector pump down approx an 8th of a turn. Oh, also washed out the entire induction system of any left over engine oil. The final result is the engine is a totally different animal. My engine must have been on the down slope for some time cause it 1) sounds totally different, 2) it's more responsive, 3) feels much more willing to get into it and the turbo whistle is now more pronounced. It even starts easier. In 3rd and 4th, I can get into the go pedal and the hesitation is gone, the front just picks up then she's gone, even with the RTT and awning on the landy. Jupp as you may have guessed by now, I'm very happy. 😀

Yesterday I thought I'd get in quick and modify my 110 to the new look before anyone else. So I've taped a printout of my landy to the centre of the dash. So far it's working pretty well and gives a visual representation of the vehicle dynamics. If I'm driving on a rough road it shakes up and down. At night it went dark, and this morning it was nice and damp. It even showed the hvac was working correctly by fluttering slightly when I put the heater on full. Development cost 5p, will still be working in 10 years 🙂

Look, you're in the wrong place to get someone to talk you down off the ledge. You've got wings. Fly. Take the money with you and soar with the eagles. and more pics once you have bought them pls 😉

Hi Everyone Time for a bunch of pics from my refurb and winch install onto my series 3. So i managed to bag a bargain off ebay, and this is how it arrived. So time for a strip down and see what it needed, as its had a hard life on the rear of a recovery truck from what i could find out. It was not in a such a bad shape, worn brushes, and lots of grime and neglect. I started off by ordering new brushes After some prep i had the whole thing painted in Grey, plus some new gaskets and plastic cover from the UK Got the commutator polished and started reassembly. Old VS New brushes. Fully assembled back to its glory Than it was time to start the Fabrication for a new bumper to accommodate the winch. I was lucky enough that the sale of winch had the winch plate included (had it blasted), so i incorporated that into my build. Now i wanted a specific style of bumper which was mounted higher than standard and looked more or less like what i had before ( standardish looking) . So went out and got some RHS........ and started mocking things up. To save on fab time i decided to use my old bumper as a doner for the chassis mounts (easier i thought at that time) and grafted them onto the RHS......... Next a quick check that it looked ok....... So i got some 3mm plate and doubled up the top and bottoms, tieing in the the old bumper mounts, its a lot of welding but the result was pretty pleasing. I then added some gussets at the old bumper mounts to make sure it will not go anywhere Than it was the light bars turn to be fitted, since i always liked the shape it was in, and its been on the vehicle trough the 3 bumpers i thought it was only appropriate that it gets reused. Its than off to the galvanizers for that series look............... So next was vehicle fitting............ i already had an extra X member right at the front at the dumb irons, so i added some more Gussets at the corners. And finally mounting the whole lot back onto the Landy.............. This is where i am the moment, next is wiring the winch up with an aftermarket winch control box. Than time for a new synth rope. Hope you all find it interesting, sorry for the long pic heavy post................ Regards Grem

Haha - absolutely. When the HG went on the 110 a couple of years ago I had to get the train back from Callington, Cornwall to Potters Bar, Herts - this meant 45 mins to get to Plymouth, then over 7 hours on trains including the trek across London on the Tube. Cost - a ticket 'door to door' (not really was it as i had to get to Plymouth and back from PB station was an eye watering £100. Plymouth to Paddington was £60 (then a tenner to cross London and a one way ticket to Potters Bar) - how can they justify the £100 for the same route?! I could only take as much as I could carry so didnt have everything I needed for the next week and couldnt leave things on the train as I would a. lose my seat (wasnt going to pay extra to book one!!) and b. the expensive stuff like laptops might get nicked! In the Landy, the trip is 4 1/4 hours and costs about £60 on diesel, nearer £35 on Veg Oil and i can take as much carp as I like, stop when I like (with my stuff locked away), and drive door to door!! There is absolutely no comparison!!! The whole train journey would need to be around £15 to make me consider it seriously!

This just in, actual footage of Red90 in action: Only time I've lowered pressures was when I had a nail in my tyre, but then I've never driven anywhere hard

I want to drive that up to about 50mph very carefully and then stomp on the brakes when there is lots of oncoming traffic...

New HD springs and helpers fitted a few months ago, she dealt with the water weight admirably. I was just surprised how much space there was, much hilarity was had, especially when the thunder storms rolled in

Hardly ever see a Morris 8 or 10/4 these days too.

I've attached all that I have for 1991 to 1994 Defenders. Defender 1991 Wiring diagram.pdf

The lego model is the closest I will come to owning one, so I guess its actually the most relevant part of this thread to me!

The fact there aren't more EV's running around as taxis & delivery vehicles tells a lot about the real-life practicality of the current crop I think.

I think you younger types will find that there's nothing wrong with a soft knob in an off road vehicle or maybe the home environment as larger harder knobs often lead to unfortunate and unforeseen accidents

Perhaps, gentlemen, we can keep the focus of discussion on the positive or negative aspects of the technical nature of the new vehicle - and not our respective career histories. As far as the new Defender goes, if one remembers that they are not building something to do the same as the old one then it looks pretty good. It’s fairly clear that they’re aiming at the high end market and not utility, so a slightly boxier-shaped Disco is not unexpected. After all that’s all the original was - this is the newer version. The target demographic is not people operating in hostile environments after all, it will be designed to work well on road (which is where almost all 4x4s spend the majority of their time anyway) and like the other models in the current range it will be surprisingly good off road thanks to clever electronic systems. And it will no doubt be just as unreliable as the rest of the current range

Local scrap man contacted me to see if I wanted this No use for it really but couldn't turn it down for £30 needs a wee bit of welding and general clean up also some lights

Knotted wire wheel in a grinder will blast that off! Looking very good, they are made of decent thickness steel, so no too bad to weld up

Hi All, The LR4x4 Forum has just undergone a maasssssooosive upgrade on software. Its desperately important we run the latest platform for security and all sorts of other nasties, but, it might mean something somewhere might have gotten bitten by the changes. Post up in this thread if there is anything missing / not working that you come across please Thanks Nige & the A&M Team

Here's one that might fit the bill Just joking this was a cheepy I got for father's day but it does have the "ommer" 😀 you mentioned just not big regards Stephen

I have already bought some paint to tidy it up

...........I am also relatively certain the rocks are plastic/fake and were arranged using full adventure feng shui sorted that out for you Steve

No

I'm not against it, I just don't like how the media do a drag race against something else to show how amazing it is but fail to mention that it can only do it for short periods. For normal driving it's fine, a quick burst to get you infront of a lorry when joining the motorway or overtaking a lorry. However for something that tows where you need more power for a longer period they need to make sure the batteries are big enough and can be charged quickly enough which means the engine needs enough power to drag the trailer at 60mph and put energy back into the battery. In my opinion the hybrid system is suited to people who commute from a suburb on a petrol engine then crawl through the city on electric so that they're not making air pollution worse. I also find these small engines with amazing power figures have such small power bands that they're only drivable with a quick shifting auto box with 8 or 9 gears.

You push them through, hold the body and pull the nut out, then tighten it. Unscrew the nut, push the stem back in and withdraw to remove. I find they hold tighter than Clecos, but take longer to fit and remove. A mate who is an aircraft sheetie has both, for quick or strong applications.

I haven't got the stud removers unfortunately. I also tried heating the casing with a propane torch for quite some time, and tried both mole grips and stilsons on the bolt to shift it, but only succeeded in wrecking the threads. It's properly stuck in there, and the bit that is sticking out seems too soft to get any purchase on. In the end I took the executive decision that the other 7 bolts will have to step up and take on the job of holding the gearbox on between them. Life's too short to waste it on crappy bolts.

For a temporary adjustment it would be easier to tweak the plastic wheel, that way slackening it off returns it to the original setting easily. If you do it via the permanent screw then you’ll need to either mark it or take note of the number of turns you add.

Without trying to dissuade you or send you on a diagnostic path, there are a few things other than static timing and sensors that you need to check. 1. did you have the distributor apart, did you disassemble, clean relube and reassemble the mech advance? (you should have) 2. the distributor shaft needs to be checked for endplay and side play. this will cause a cycle of "I checked it and there's still a misfire" ignition issues. 3. the hall sensor needs to be checked and the trigger clearance needs to be correctly set, taking into account the freeplay in the shaft. 4. the retainer washer is problematic on the top of the shaft. There is a modification where the top is tapped for an m4 thread and small screw/washer/socket screw is used to fix this and prevent the damage that invariably occurs when an owner tries to remove a rotor that"wont come off the shaft". Ironically it's the attempts to remove problematic stuck rotors that cause misfires.... 5. the rollover switch under the passenger seat needs to be checked and cleaned / lubed and reset - this can cause intermittent cutouts similar to a failing dizzy module. 6. relocating the module to the inner guard near the coil / air intake is a very straightforward useful modification. It guarantees you keep the module from thermal cycling overheating issues. 7, you should check the idle air control solenoid valve on the rear of the plenum. disassemble, clean and reinstall with a new copper washer. 8. static timing in the order of approx 12ºBTDC is a good place to start for tuning, depending on the octane rating and your engine's compression. 9. the fuel pump wiring needs to be thoroughly checked, the fuel pump may even require replacement, as should the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator needs to be checked for correct operating range. 10. new rotor, cap and leads as well as quality plugs will make a difference. I chased a similar issue to you when I first obtained my RRC back in 2014. I went through all manner of 'forum opinion' given I was never a landrover owner prior to this ( and won't be buying another ) I ended up curing nearly all of my issues with a reasonably comprehensive rewiring of the electrics, which included the fundamental areas mentioned above. I found the sensors were all fine. The issue was the verdigris in many of the connectors and contacts on the wiring harness. much was fixed with a mixture of almost bopiling water and baking soda, zinc chloride flux and resoldering connectors, several cans of CO cleaner and DeoxIT and many connectors removed or replaced, then reassembled and sprayed with lanolin grease. a new ignition switch, removal of the fusible links in the engine bay short harness, replacing them with proper fusible links (like modern disco) in an IP rated enclosure, new fuel pump, and distributor module, coil, leads, distributor overhaul (including the mods) and new genuine lucas rotor and cap (yes lucas! I know!) all progressively replaced over the first 3 months of ownership in an effort to track down the culprit was an expense I did not forsee upon purchase. It wasn't until I took a serious look at the RRC's electrics that I ended up finding a number of quite significant voltage drops across several circuits that caused the 'ah-Ha!' moment which forced me to pull the entire lower dash out and check every single circuit. 90% of my problems were related to poor electrical contact and were easily fixed. Some were wear and tear related (indicator stalks, headlamp switch, ignition switch etc. Relays were put on the ignition to protect the switch (a LR wtf moment surely) and the headlamps. Bear in mind my RRC never saw any offroad use before I purchased it and the P.O. had fastidiously maintained this every 5000km (records) for 11 years prior. Turns out that the first owner (I am 3rd) was a bit "lax" and cheap on the post-warranty care (and likely the JLA dealerships were worse) and many of the unresolved omnipresent and previously undiagnosed issues which reared their ugly heads in the first 3 months of my ownership were all electrical related - and more ironically never required 'attention' until the vehicle was sold... read into that what you wish... Start with getting yourself a copy of RAVE, study it, and then go and test everything. remove any suspect wiring, clean every earth, clean every contact. That and a really thorough mechanical and fluid servicing, including a flush treatment on the oil and a new trans filter service kit, as well as TC, diffs and swivels. It's amazing what you will find. and fix! I have to say despite my loathing for LR as a company and the absolute carp build quality control and electrical design, the RRC has endearing qualities. It is one of the reasons I own one. I could have quite easily made the sensible decision and bought a w461 gelandewagen, which would have been logical - but the RRC always ha some kind of mystical luxury cache coupled with LR DNA with me, and while a perentie would have been a more appropriate choice for me from an LR perspective, the RRC is what I wanted. They are basic, and even though build quality is atrocious, they are dead easy to maintain and repair. Ultimately this is why they have a bit of a cult following I believe. After all, that is Land Rover's unofficial byline...... "Turning owners into Mechanics since 1959" back on topic though... you need rave ETM and you need to start checking the wiring as well as the mechanical stuff. follow logic and process. don't get sidetracked by other contributing factors until you have verified the DUT and made a determination as to whether it is working as designed or not.

Yeee Haaa Finally got the engine in and one bolt at the top of the engine holding it in. In the end it slipped in very neatlyone I have the torque convertor in the correct position. Tiny little movements and no forcing the two went together like a dream. Thnaks to all for your help

LR math.90" = 102"110" = 119"130" = 119"

I resemble that remark. 😂😂😂

Imagine classic car shows of the future - blokes stood round a rebuilt ecu with its cover propped up and displays in the main arena of eprom flash upgrades Noooooooooooo 😭

More a lack of understanding of electronics - what was made can be re-made, devices like the Raspberry Pi are opening the field up, making a custom PCB is cheaper than ever, the tools are more accessible than they've ever been but it's outside the knowledge of most old-school workshops. It's like saying "oh you can't get a new cylinder head for that anywhere at any price" - yes you can, someone somewhere will happily whittle one from billet with a CNC machine if you're willing to pay for it, but your local garage will just shrug and say you can't get them and the car is scrap.

finally, possibly something without camo:

You have the confidence to remove the floor etc and attacking stuff with a grinder this would also have been out of your comfort Zone at some point in your life Mig welding is seriously easy to get the hang of in comparison to other welding techniques You could possibly even hire one for a week to explore whether it is viable to go down that route without incurring significant cost Bits of metal plate are easily and economically obtained from your local scrap man / steel recyclers I quite often get aluminium, steel or stainless plate pieces at very reasonable prices even ask some mates that may have access to there scrap skip at work for a few bits to practice on. When I was learning to use my tig our local guy gave me some bits to practice on he reasoned he was getting the bits back slightly heavier with my splutterings on win win for both of us Regards Stephen

Having done three different routes to registration. Kit conversion, SVA and IVA I have to say they are all costly and a paperwork exercise. My freestyle was SVA not as costly as the current system but there were so many loop holes it was daft. My tomcat was done as a kit conversion, taken for a VIC if it passed register it if not SVA. It passed as I've said it was one of the loop holes. The ibex was done under the current system of IVA. People are scared of authority hence the distain for IVA. I find it amusing that people avoid a Q plate when for me it screams that the vehicle has been tested and legit. The bottom line is it is time consuming and costly but not really a problem. More importantly is a 100 inch worth £10k if your asking what it's worth your missing the point. My ibex is everything I wanted it to be. It's worth considerably more to me than it cost to build it and at least double what I could sell it for. If you want it build it but don't think you will do anything but loose money on it. My tomcat cost me £12k to build (about half the average build cost) but when I sold it (5 years later) I struggled to get £6.5k. I say don't just talk about it do it but then I would. Mike

Indeed, Chapman never used big, powerfull engines but was on the forefront of aerodynamics in F1, for example the the type 78 and 79 ground effect cars. Filip

NCRS = National Command Radio System. Also known as HDRS - Home Defence Radio System. Developed in the 80s, it was a text based radio comms network to keep the country regional government going if the bomb dropped. It had 250W Skanti HF transceivers, adaptive HF radio modems, crypto, and no room to swing the proverbial cat with two squaddies and all the kit inside. Leave it parked in the rain with the brakes on and you'll need to drag it violently round the carpark with a 101 until they release Not much fun to tow behind a 2.5 NA 90. Allegedly once gave rise to the radio message "I've turned the national command rover over, over"

And it will sell in great numbers regardless of not meeting the buyers in whatever marketplace....

And palatial digs at base camp 😆

Engine side you are very restricted on a 200TDI. Power to the fuel cut solenoid is the only electrical connection that is required to keep the engine running once it has started. Toying with the idea of physically interrupting the fuel supply from the tank on mine. EDIT: Ninjad by Western.

Mate of mine arrived at work with another mate laying in the engine bay of his golf operating the throttle, he was driving with his head out the window to see round the bonnet and shout instructions... No, he wasn't the sharpest tool in the box.

Came across this wee clip the other day. It explains in a nutshell why I don’t believe electronics and putting the brakes on to achieve forward motion are a substitute for good old fashioned diff locks and sensible tyres.