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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/17/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Is twatalogical the science of tightness too?
  2. 3 points
    Make one from a drinks can. Cut a sheet and make a funnel.
  3. 3 points
    I suspect that is rather unfair to the Td5, it passed all of the MoD durability tests and is based on the proven L-Series architecture. It has a few issues, but no more so than almost any other modern engine from other car makers IMO. In return you get a lot more power and torque, lot more tuning ability and a much more refined engine. There are also plenty in daily service still and lots of high mileage ones.
  4. 3 points
    Replaced rear oil seal and timing cover / water pump gaskets, refilled with fresh oil and filter as well so should have it back in and running tomorrow
  5. 3 points
    haha im not that nuts! have being considering getting it mapped though. my new issue was similar to my old issue. i miscalculated when i did the beavertail and ended up cutting too much out, so the angle (of about 5*!) is still too much for the near zero groundclearence my racecar has. this wasn't particularly surprising, and it was always on the cars that this could happen. i got the tape measure out and discovered all my work making the folding sections of the ramp where pointless. there is near zero rampover angle without them, so they have been retired. they have instead been repurposed and now look like this to be honest i always expected to have to do this. the professionals always have the ramp heading uphill to just behind the cab. whilst this was a option, it would have meant 20x the work, and this works fine. these are a 30second removal deal, so when (if) theyre in the way they can easily be pulled out. NOW its finished!
  6. 3 points
    I found a problem with the tdi offroad and what was much better with the v8 was the acceleration. By this I don't mean the 0-60 I mean you come to the bottom of a steep hill going over rough terrain at a walking pace and you want to get a bit of speed to the wheels to get up the hill. The v8, despite having poor bhp per cc and litre of fuel, gave you power across the whole rev range and you could get a bit of momentum quite quickly by being in a longish gear. The TDi had to be on the turbo to get that push and the available rev range between turbo coming in and running out of revs was quite narrow, you couldn't change gear on the hill and would often fail due to either lack of wheel speed due to too low gear or losing power due to revs dropping off the bottom of the turbo due to too high gear. I find this is the same with modern downsized engines. The 2 litre may well have 200bhp on paper but the power band is so narrow it's lost its driveability. That's why they are going for the 10 gear quick shift automatics, to try to give it enough ratios to use the narrow power band when accelerating and keep the revs as low as possible for economy when driving. Due to this I don't find you can take any notice of quoted max power in car adverts, you have to drive the thing to see how well it's setup.
  7. 2 points
    All sounds very good! For allround driving and getting there, you probably can't do much better than an ATB. And I was thinking exactly the same thing as you: an ATB with on-command full lock would be so sweet! Much like the ATB centre Ashcroft offers for the LT230. Filip
  8. 2 points
    I think you also need to stop virtue signalling, Naks, and look at Indian engineering and manufacturing quality objectively. It’s dire.
  9. 2 points
    Sauce oil cleaned up internals removed awaiting a mince pie refit with added chilli for a bit extra zoom lol regards Stephen
  10. 2 points
    Al, the Defender is definitely more like a Lotus Elise, a TVR would be way to plush and powerfull (and not as easy to drive). 🙂 Actually, the bare bodywork inside the Elise does remind me of my Defender with the floormats etc removed. Couldn't agree more on the touchscreens. I was playing with a midsize rental excavator a few weeks ago and spent about half an hour going through all the menus in an attempt to have the radio play some rock or metal instead of schlagers... Filip
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    Engine back in and running with no oil / water leaks so just got to refit the floor plates back in and sort a few small jobs out and its done, will post pic's tomorrow
  13. 2 points
    Someone is rebuilding a late 2a gearbox for me - I’ve a few pictures: ‘Stored under the bench condition’ Late suffix with the larger layshaft - which can’t hurt with the tdi in it. Stripped to see what’s what... To replace: Primary Pinion, 1st gear pair, reverse shaft, 3rd gear pair, intermediate shaft for transfer box .... and on closer inspection, 2nd gear pair 😂 I love a bit of NOS goodness Cases cleaned Just waiting painted covers and shift mechanism
  14. 2 points
    Make sure you use the correct Loctite. Had you said "threadlocker" then, no problem whether you do or not. "Retainer" is a different issue! Although, saying that, I've still never applied threadlocker either and never had a problem! Cheers Peter
  15. 2 points
    Lord knows, it was (cough) years ago, it was the PS10 I think, and now you say it it may well be the Iveco engine - my brain obviously filed it under "engine from van" .
  16. 1 point
    This exactly. When I was looking around at cars back in 2015, I was looking for something pokey but also something that had character. Whilst a Golf or Audi would have been quicker or a GT86 would have been more fun on wet roundabouts, the mini just had/has something fun about it. Yes it’s a million miles from the original car but it’s still instantly recognisable as a Mini. That’s where I think the new defender has lost out mostly, it just isn’t instantly recognisable in the same way.
  17. 1 point
    Beware that they do encourage anything that makes their own delivery quicker and simpler, they are naturally wary of small DIY jobs because the lories spend more time in general on site. I really wouldn't be tempted on your sloping site to go without steel mesh, it helps insure against inconsistancies in the laying technique, almost inevitable unless you get in skilled labour. If you have some choice of supplier in your location then do enquire what vehicles are available, I had a combination 6m³ mixer and pump wagon combined on my last big floor job, probably rare enough to find though. More common are the small lorries and the 'We mix-You lay' pan mixer tippers which would probably be more cost effective. Lastly water, ... don't agree to extra water being added unless you have a genuine difficulty, some drivers are over keen to make their own job easy at your expense. Too much water can seriously damage the strength of your slab. Unless you are dealing with modern self levelling gypsum recipes and the like (which I presume you aren't) then water is your enemy. Same goes for washing out, think before hand where the lorry can wash down and make sure it is well away from anything important. At the end of the day, the slab is the foundation, very difficult to re-visit and improve after the event, an extra £400 (guessing) on a pump lorry might seem like a lot but it will make the job so much easier, the pump operator will place the concrete precisely and quickly exactly where required and massively reduce the physical effortrequired from you/your team, leaving you free to concentrate on tamping and floating.
  18. 1 point
    Yes, I was just checking further up the thread and realised remembered that we are of course talking about the later axle. You beat me to my edit!
  19. 1 point
    Bought some years ago a 110 that was involved in accident, so did a rebuild new chassis, new engine, new wings etc but only discovered later on that the driver hit the heater channel on the bulkhead with his knee and ruined it. 'warm' air arrived on the feet but nothing on the window. I found a dash with Bowy Odink with 3 cover plates So everything out The grey box is folded by hand in alu and connected to the blower. Two holes on top to go to the left and right part of the front window Later on I added 2 small holes at the sides that go to the left and right of the dash as demister for the windows in the doors A first presentation to see if everything fits The black box in the middle I found in Newbury, but the gearstick needs to be bent a bit A first mockup, position of speedo is due to the lack of depth because of the airtube behind Still using the original TD5 switches and the holder for them The blower is now via a pwm and works very good Some weeks later I found a double din radio with Carplay and input for front and rear camera so changed layout again Next step is to fit the tripmaster and some other stuff
  20. 1 point
    I think the P38 is highly dependent on what condition the chassis / general condition of it is in. If it's not roadworthy then I'd probably just break it for parts at which point I might as well take the plasma cutter to it . Lower bumpers are trash as are most corners so remove body work and shove some stupid tyres on it. In fact I just remembered snapping the rear tailgate when we put some ladders on it to remove the current 300Tdi for the 110. Fuel tank is held in place with a ratchet strap too . Maybe if the weather clears up tomorrow I'll take a more appraising look at it. Mind you I'll have to stop playing with the new toy tool.
  21. 1 point
    That is right. That’s the benefit of epicyclic gears with clutch pack selectors - everything is already meshed, so you can have instant changes without removing torque. It’s how automatic transmissions work, and this is essentially a two speed auto.
  22. 1 point
    If you wanted an ATB in yours then it's probably easier to source a second hand axle off a Td5 or Tdci Defender which has the short nose diff in it then you can drop an Ashcroft ATB in there. I picked up an axle casing complete with hubs and discs for £100 and Nige (@Hybrid_from_Hell) sourced a donor diff for me and then built it up (although I went pegged Ashlocker rather than ATB). Probably worth pricing up the different options, I suspect using a new axle wouldn't be that expensive compared to finding an ATB for the Salisbury.
  23. 1 point
    I wouldn’t want to pay for his tyres !
  24. 1 point
    That was a new solenoid from the OD refurb company up T'north... Such a freekin annoying OD.. Why can't it just work with all them parts new in it !
  25. 1 point
    Thanks, that's what I thought. I think it'll get put in the wife's 110 with std shafts, as I now have a pair of spare original shafts anyway. Might stop some of the grumbling that I've got the toys while she is the one that drives off road the most
  26. 1 point
    By you've been quicker than me. No oil leaks on mine tho
  27. 1 point
    Its more interesting than the new pretender though....
  28. 1 point
    Are you sure a rear double cardan prop will solve your problems? a picture of rear prop angles would be good.
  29. 1 point
    Perhaps she's not made down under yet, but her name is Greta Thunberg. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greta_Thunberg
  30. 1 point
    I find 33's, 3.54 diffs, and a 1.4 transfer box just right on the road, pulling a ~2.3t truck. Spritely, but gets close to 20mpg on runs. Nothing worse than an over-labouring engine in a car IMHO.
  31. 1 point
    As smallfry says, the V8 went in front of many gearboxes, the late R380 being preferable all else being equal. If you leave the LT230 where it is and work forward, you'll need to fabricate or buy new engine mounts & position accordingly. 1.4:1 LT230 is liveable with a V8 but it'll be revving higher than needed if you're on normal size tyres, a 1.2:1 ratio (Disco/RR) might be better. It may be stating the obvious but you'll need a high-pressure fuel pump for the EFI as well as a bit of wiring etc. depending on what you're doing.
  32. 1 point
    I have with luck used a standard 300 tdi intercooler/radiator setup. The only thing that needs doing is to cut the, errm passenger side to you guys, top radiator Mount, and og is in to pieces of pipe, one 90 degree elbow and two straight later and you are off!! Very easy, and gives the added bonus og even more ultra low down torque. 😎 /Mads
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    There is nothing to be gained with 24 spline genuine shafts. They are weaker than the 10 spline shafts. If you want to go stronger, you need aftermarket 24/23 spline shafts and suitable CV joints. What you have in there now is anyone's guess.
  36. 1 point
    1) no reason it can't be road legal on the P38 chassis, you are just changing the body. 2) You can run some larger hydraulic pumps from the front of the crank Other than that, love the idea
  37. 1 point
    Apart from getting one or two facts wrong, I think he nailed it. His conclusion nails why there is so much division over this thing, especially the comparison with the iMac Pro! My summary: Land Rover made a much better car but lots of people actually wanted a better truck...
  38. 1 point
    Engine braking is overrated. I regular offroad in non standard class in my rangerover....its been a 3.9 v8 auto and its now a 300tdi auto....I only every use D and R If its steep downhill I brake with the brakes...if it slides a bit then let the brakes off a bit...if it slides a lot...give it throttle
  39. 1 point
    You can get one from autosparks ! 😉 Mo
  40. 1 point
    Don't panic there are a couple of other big-uns in the workshop
  41. 1 point
    Thanks Western, for the offer. I'm reluctant to take the head off, to be honest, I fear that I might start rebuilding the engine! You do have to take the head of to do the cam shaft, right? I'll inspect the keyway in a minute, and if its okay, then I'll leave it be. Even if I Loctite it into the keyway, I should be all right. Big turner order coming up.
  42. 1 point
    There is always the 2.5 5 brg. petrol if your annual mileage is not high . A much under-rated engine , quiet , smooth and fairly tuneable should you feel the need . Original it may be but the 2.5 n/a is very slow and creating a good one from an unknown will cost £££'s . cheers Steve b
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Put a jump lead from battery neg to engine block - if it starts you need to clean up your earths. If it still clicks from the solenoid your starter is failing or not throwing out (gummed with mud/carbon)
  45. 1 point
    Try adjusting the servo pushrod that acts on the master cylinder piston. Only muck in the system would be from failing seals which make the fluid black. How old is the master cylinder.?
  46. 1 point
    I too use grease to stick the gaskets unless it's the water pump where it gets a smear of RTV. Mo
  47. 1 point
    Thanks Steve Strip down has commenced properly. Wings were a lot more of a faff to get off than I thought they would be No nasty surprises found on the bulkhead so that is good news
  48. 1 point
    The trouble is it doesn’t always in my experience. Yes my phone always connects to the daily (65 plate Mini) for the hands free but it doesn’t always connect for music over the Bluetooth. I’m paired with all the work vans but they often don’t work first time.
  49. 1 point
    You have a 400 horse power Defender?? Wow. I have a 200 horse power car which is half the size and it's easily fast enough. No hill too steep, no passing opportunity wasted etc.. At the risk of offending a minority, crazy horsepower figures in a vehicle designed to do really well off road brings too many compromises and isn't smart. Get a muscle car.
  50. 1 point
    In Spanish C stands for "Cortas" (short), L for "Largas" (long), PM for "Punto muerto" (Dead spot, = Neutral) :)


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