Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/08/2014 in Posts

  1. 23 points
    At last weekends LR show we treated ourselves to a Wolf ambulance from Withams. I'm planning on having it delivered asap but can anybody help me with the process from there? I understand I need to: 1. Get it insured. Footman James have said no, Lancaster are going to call back tomorrow and Adrian Flux have quoted (sensible). Any others to try? 2. Book an MOT and drive it there 3. Hopefully bring it home MOT'd 4. DVLA paperwork...... Any ideas? What do I need to fill in? Can I register it as a camper (my plan is to convert) Is it viable to convert to 12v? If so i'll have a load of 24v parts for sale!
  2. 19 points
    Has anyone put power steering into their FC 101 that does not involve cutting into the front of the chassis. I know most Disco 1 and 2, P38 and 110 boxes can be used but involve cutting into the chassis. I am not prepared to cut into the chassis - drill holes, weld yes but not cut bits out of it. I have checked a Jeep Wrangler box and it would fit where the original box is without too much modification BUT there is a major issue in that the output shaft turns the wrong way . So if anyone has power steering on their 101 does not involve cutting the chassis please post up how it was done. Thanks Garry
  3. 19 points
    What do you think about this late Series 3 109? Outwardly ex military but with plenty of civvy touches [CL version?] http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272113985357?ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  4. 17 points
    Hi, some of you might know i got myself a pulse ambulance. Can anyone tell me if the Diffs in the front and rear axles are standard rover 24 spline. I know they are 24 spline but would they just be called "rover" ? Would i just be able to bolt in a TrueTrack destined for a "Rover 24" TA Neill
  5. 17 points
    hi, I have ex mod 110 td 1991 rolling chassis project which was a van td, at the stage now where I want to fit exhaust system on it, I know I will have to alter the down pipe to fit discovery 200tdi engine I've put in it as I did with my 90, I want to make it into a station wagon but which is the correct exhaust system and part numbers would be a good help thks dd
  6. 16 points
    Evening guys, haven't been in the Landy world for a bit, but I am now back with a new addition to the family. New challenge for me after being used to the 3.9 V8, now I need to familiarise myself with the 2.5 N/A diesel. So far so good (it's only been two days!! ) She was Army fire service, someone decided to off-road her for a wee while, but thankfully I got my hands on her before it went on too long. I'm going to keep her as original as possible and over the years and bring her back up to a well,deserved standard. ( it'll take time but can't wait!) Already knew about the cold start procedure and works very well. Very little smoke on start up and after a gear change for the first 5 mins there's a little bit of smoke. Clears after that. High low range seem to be fine (steep driveway) although I don't know how to get into diff lock. I was advised the bulb may need replaced for it too. All dash lights work, already taken the Sh*t sports steering wheel off and put the original back on. Fan works but I think I could blow faster ha! All lights work and are military spec. ( I really like them) every single thing seems to work. It's been painted a desert sand but my intention is to go NATO green. I prefer this to the fire service red. So just thought I'd introduce the new addition the the best landy forum around.
  7. 16 points
    Hi, thinking of getting me a 130 Ambulance. lots of questions... is it a class 4 MOT? Whats its GVW? Does the 24v cause issues. Can i get rid of it? Can I insure it at a normal place? anything thats a RPITA to carry on using one? I think getting it registered is pretty easy once I got the MOT. Similar to when we brought Matilda home after the trip. So other than the insurance and MOT are there any "living with one" issues. e.g. are the spares pretty much the same? I presume normal 130 springs and shocks and general consumables like hub bearings and stuff. Thanks Neill ps feeling like a newbee again..........
  8. 15 points
    I googled for hours to try and fix this and finally I found something useful. To reset a locked out Eberspacher D5LC (may work on other models) all you need to do I short out two wires. You do not need to buy a 701 or 801 controller or take it to a dealer. 25 1688 50 00 / 12V and 25 1689 50 00 / 24V in versions R0,R1,R2,R3,R4 are confirmed to work. Although you need to short the wires for longer time on the R3 and R4 models of ECU. Up to 5 seconds for the R3,R4 and up to 2 seconds for the R0,R1,R2. To do this try to start the unit as normal. This will not work as its locked out however you will get an illuminated Green LED in the middle of the dial. With the Green LED illuminated short out the two pins as per the diagram below. Do not remove the wires just short them out where they are. The heater should immediately start up if the duration of short is long enough. Mine took 3 seconds maybe as its an R4 Remove the short as soon as the heater starts up The green light may blink the last error code whilst the heater is running Let the heater run for a good few minutes and then allow it to shut down as normal by turning the control knob to off position Allow it to fully cool down and shutdown Power cycle the heater and then attempt a fresh restart. The green light should be steady with no blink codes and it should now be unlocked. The symptoms of a lockout for me was upon turning on the heater the fan didn't blow and the unit did not start. The green LED was steady indicating no fault codes and no matter what I did it would not go into start-up procedure. This seems typical of a lock-out. All I did was have a low fuel tank and this locked it out.
  9. 15 points
    If anyone has read my posts you will understand that i am new to having a Landy (and loving it) but even though i have a new battery i am finding the starting of engine not great and seems to be taking longer and longer to start. mine has a choke which someone has said is unusable......is this true? i have also been advised to check the glow plugs and change if necessary anyone got any suggestions the correct starting process and mine doesnt have a light on dash like other diesels do.......probably because its an ex-MOD
  10. 15 points
    Just wondering if there are any Farmer's Boys who are members here.
  11. 15 points
    OK guys, if you have a light stone coloured vehicle what colour is it declared as on your V5? Yellow or beige?
  12. 15 points
    First release! http://www.mod-sales.com/direct/vehicle/,25,/77257/Land_Rover.htm
  13. 14 points
    did you buy the locking diff in the end?
  14. 14 points
    Is it possible to use the clansman FFR antena mount used ont he LWTs origininaly etc with a conventional CB ? so it looks original ihs but use a Cb with it ?
  15. 14 points
    Hi guys I am new to this forum and was hoping somebody can help me. My 2.25 diesel is not Goni g into glow mode anymore when I turn key 3/4 turn. No click in module. So my questions - is there a fuse for that function I can't find it - what could be the issue Any help would be appreciated so I know where to start to look..
  16. 14 points
    Trying to find out what these are - I think from a Towed Rapier - can anyone tell me if this is similar to any other trailer hubs?
  17. 14 points
    Yes the ambulances are definitely better with a bit of weight in the back to bring the CoG down. With all the fittings stripped out and bare in the back mine was markedly different, less lean, more slide
  18. 13 points
    Hello, 1st post on here as I am hoping someine can help me? I have a widetrack trailer and have started to refurbish it. I have stripped the leaf springs and removed the damaged spring bushes. They are not the same as Series spring buhes. Does anyone know what they are from? They measure 5/8" ID, 1 3/8" OD, 2 11/16" long. Thank you
  19. 13 points
    Hi, Wondering if anyone has had any experience of fitting Jackable Rock/Tree (protector) Sliders onto their 110 FFR. The side lockers are overhanding the area at the moment and I have read on some US sites where they have cut the bottom of the locker doors a bit to get them to fit but wondered if anyone has done this is in the UK or can recommend a supplier? Thanks Taffia
  20. 13 points
    Is this the one that's also appearing on Facebook for £3000? Looks very very similar
  21. 13 points
  22. 13 points
    To add the above, the 101 manual steering box is a bit of a weak point, the ball bearings can corrode or shear and the races pit until they fail and the column unwinds instead of steering, it happened to me! I t was years ago when spares were still obtainable easily. You can machine the column and put proper bearings in but it's a fair bit of work.
  23. 12 points
    Hi gents, well I've been offline for quite some time because I've been focussed on a new series I was hinting about on and off for ages. It's finally live after a year of earnest work. Hope it's appropriate to post it and hope you like it...\ George
  24. 12 points
    It has been a while since I last owned an ex mil vehicle and wondered where the vehicle history records are now kept? I used to get them from the museum of military transport in Beverley but I understand that has long since closed down. I tried EMLRA in the past and never, ever, had a response on anything I asked about, even when attempting to join.
  25. 12 points
    exmod 1991 Salisbury rear drum brakes converted to discs everything when fine but o/s rear half shaft seemed to be wrong one inserted hell of a game to get it out had to grind flange off which had been welded on remove drums then knocked it out back through the stub axle it had a raised area which I presume for oil seal but the shaft it self seemed to thick anyway thicker than the other half shaft on n/s so now I need a half shaft part number read else where that thee original drum brake shaft would be ok, dd
  26. 12 points
    Recently released by the government. Get your copies now! https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/502705/FOI2016-00702_2320-D-128-711_Final.pdf I met a chap from Hobsons once who said they had had a contract to convert 50 ROW spec Defenders to 1998 spec (looms, connectors, fuel lines, etc), just so that they could homogenise the part numbers (which sounded a bit barmy). Taking a look at that manual with all its NATO stock numbers, etc. it makes me understand completely!
  27. 12 points
    hi can anyone help me with a part number for the oil temp sender that fits into the sump on a V8?....................................many thanks
  28. 11 points
    Anoraks on standby! As some of you will know, you can decode some Land Rover fastener part numbers into their actual threads & dimensions, like this: BT606106 = Bolt, 3/8 UNF x 1 1/4" Anyway, whilst perusing the S3 Parts book for a few bits and bobs I ended up down quite a rabbit hole and ended up making this: Land Rover / BL fastener part number decoder-o-tron It should get the basics right but I found a lot of previously un-mentioned variations in the parts book so if anyone has their anorak on and feels like filling in the blanks that would be super awesome. Areas of doubt & uncertainty: AB, AC, AD, AE, AR = Drive Screws (self tappers) but not sure on the differences AB,AC,AD imperial (AB6...) are by Screw No. (EG AB606... equals screw with imperial No.6 thread) but no idea of other thread-forms? AJ = Spire nut, not clear on details AK = Captive/spring nut, not clear on details AM = Bolt, "Special", no idea BD = Probably Blanking Plug but no idea on sizing? FX = Nut of some special sort (flanged or jam)? GG = Mudguard screw, only seen one part number so no idea on what's different about this MR = Pop rivet but no idea on size or type NC, ND = Castle nut but unclear on details NK = Captive nut / lokut / rivnut...??? NH, NM, NR = Nut, hex, not clear on detail NN, PN = Rivnut, type/details unclear NY, NZ = Nylock nit, not clear on difference PA, PC, PS = Pins, sizing not clear (very guesswork) RA, RF, RT, RU = Rivets, details unclear SA, SE, SH = Screw, differences unclear SF = Screw, Flanged, different to FS? TD, TE = Studs, very vague on details WA, WB, WC, WD, WP = Washers, what's the difference? WE, WF = Shakeproof washers, details / sizing unclear WK = Cup Washer, very vague on details WL, WM, WS = Spring washers, what's the difference?
  29. 11 points
    Can anyone supply me with the part numbers for the roof bars for a Wolf hard top? Previous post has a picture but need some numbers and the guy who provided the picture does not want to reply for some reason. Any one able to help??? Regards Stu
  30. 11 points
    New guidance for O/T threads and posts, giving a clear picture of what is acceptable. Please read this link - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73660 Thanks
  31. 10 points
    Ok, So there is a thread on U/J quality in the international forum were people are mentioning short lives of their U/J, and questioning their quality. Of course, a genuine U/J generally lives longer than a cheap replacement. But In my experience, there is more to it. Mainly maintenance; how often do you grease your U/Js? And the next question is than how is it done. Before you all think I teaching you to suck eggs I will expand on this a bit more: Problem I found is that one grease nipple is serving 4 bearings. In reality, this means that the grease tend to find the route with the least resistance. This usually means you are effectively greasing 1 or 2 bearings only. And what about the others? They are dry as a bone and fall apart. To combat this, I thought about it, and came up with a method that I will show you here. It is rather involved, but I have not changed a U/J in 10 years. Here we go: First off, grease as you would normally. You can see which bearing gets grease, as it pours past the seal: The ones that dont get any grease need feeding as well. You can do this by pressing the bearing which has already been greased against the crosspiece like so: This now should stop the flow of grease to the already greased bearing, and find the next passage with the lowest resistance. If you still have other bearings that have no grease coming out, you can add a G-clamp with a nut, to press 2 opposed bearing cups against the cross piece. keep repeating this process until all bearing cups have grease coming out. This process is rather fiddly, but as mentioned, since I started doing it this way, I have had no failures. I have done this with the props on the car and using 2 opposed G-clamps. Also, the blue grease is better in my experience, as it does not go solid like the yellow stuff (which I am using here, unfortunately). Hope that helps, and have fun greasing these things! Daan
  32. 10 points
    Like it says in the title really. Got an ex MoD 90 wiring has been "repaired" in the past ?. Whoever the muppet who fancied himself as an auto electrician was, he must have owned shares in red insulating tape. I have indicators, brake lights, front and rear sidelights, headlights on dip, 1 headlight on full (could just be bulb, sealed units). I have lethargic wipers which have normal speed and high speed. The high is in the right place, all other positions are slow. Occassionally they park but 90% of time stopping them is a pull the fuse job. Hazard lights? Eh, no. I also have a full loom of another 90. From look of the spaghetti under the bonnet and behind switches, I think this might be the best option. Is it possible to alter it to suit the military version or do I just go normal 90. Who needs convoy lights anyway. Help or insight appreciated ladies and gentlemen. Rab
  33. 10 points
    The front and rear doors were looking tacky, metal frames rusting and slack hinges. Repaired bottom rails with YRM repair sections for S111. Got a pair of DA1070 heavy duty hinges which are marginally larger than the original and foul the door to window trim on the old military defender. Others have packed the hinge to clear the trim but I just ground off the offending small section of the trim. Hinges came in a blue box!! but to be fair to Britpart they are of good quality and no slop in the hinge pin, well pleased. After adjusting the striker plates the three doors close with a clunk rather than the slam bang before the repairs. If I close my eyes I’d think I was closing the door on a Roller !!
  34. 10 points
    Just under 3 years ago I bought two 101 disk brakes kits from Zeus. There was one set for myself and one for a friend. He fitted his to the front of his 101 in May 2013 and I have yet to fit mine. Today he advised his Zeus brake discs are cracked. He noticed a big crack in the brake rotor. It turns out both discs are cracked and the cracks have spread from almost every bolt hole used to hold the disc onto the hub. He cannot see anything that will stop these cracks spreading and this will lead to sudden a catastrophic failure of the front brakes. As these disks are unique with none other available except from Zeus, he treated the brakes well and they have not been cooked. The discs have been good until now with no wear showing on the disc itself and he was extremely happy with the Zeus conversion. The biggest crack has traveled 1/3 of the way though the disc radius. This is a pic of one of the smaller cracks This is a pic of the new unfitted disk - the cracks emanate from the bolt holes. Has anyone else heard of these brake disks developing cracks or failing. Cheers Garry
  35. 10 points
    Anyone familiar with 101s will know of their front driveshaft design issue, commonly called the "101 Rumble" where the front driveshaft causes mild vibration and noise on the overrun above about 90kph. There are two ways this can be reduced - the first is rotating the front axle housing up 17.5 degrees which is a fairly big job and I am not wanting to go this route. The second way is to lower the engine/gearbox on the drivers side so reducing the steep angle of the front driveshaft. HOWEVER I am not sure what the recommended amount is for lowering the engine and gearbox. Does anywith 101 knowledge know how much to lower? For those who might want to suggest modifiying the driveshaft, I can assure you that tis has been looked by many, many people over the years and variations have not been successful. Maybe a shaft with CVs at either end would work but be expensive to build - likewise a D2 style shaft with a double carden has proven not to work. So I would appreciate advice on how much to lower the engine. Thanks Garry
  36. 10 points
    Malcolm Whitbread used a LHD defender style steering box so the input pointed forwards and then a 90 degree bevel box at bottom of column. The 101 relay is larger than a series unit so should survive having power steering through it and adds an element of further damping so should help improve steering box life when offroading. Cutting and vee-ing the chassis isn't a terribly messy way of doing it, rebuilding the top of the rail over the v would add strength back in and might make it a tad neater.
  37. 10 points
    Bought some LR bits from forum member who will remain nameless (Ross) ...to be delivered to me by Mr V8 Freak.... And this is what's waiting Sigh....
  38. 10 points
    If you have a standing order to LR4x4.com Please read the info in this link http://forums.lr4x4....772#entry727634 & act on it to reset your standind order payments.
  39. 9 points
    I have to say it amuses me when the foreigners on here apologise for their English. We as a nation are ignorant when it comes to languages but I guess that comes from being one of the more commonly used. I say you guys rock for bothering to use a forum in a non native tongue and I have to remind myself that I'm the one that is deficient in this area. Long may you continue to grace us with your presence and input. Thank you Mike
  40. 9 points
    I agree with the forum charter and I do not believe there should be an OT section - and even try to abide by it most of the time. However, most of my closest friends are members and many of them I met through the forum. It's a great community of like minded people - for whom I care a great deal. There has always been an unwritten rule that some latitude will be given to people who make a decent contribution to the forum - and Mr Rattler qualifies in my book! I don't think I've met him, but I've followed his exploits and care about him and the rest of his life too - and the same goes for the rest of you too. Yes, it's primarily a Technical Forum - but it's the people that make it great. There is space for the odd thread about mental health, pets and yes, even Waxoiling cats! These are the things that turn words on a page into real people. Si
  41. 9 points
    Thanks again, its all checking out in my mind now.
  42. 9 points
    Hi, Just wondering if anyone knows whether a 101 axle is the same width as a Defender axle? Thanks,
  43. 8 points
    Well, that wasn't exactly the plan, but it's what happened 🤦‍♂️ Popped over to the UK for New Year's to have a play at Bunny Lane, and combine it with the classic car show at Brooklands. Arrived at Bunny Lane around lunch after missing our ferry by 5 minutes because we were sat at border control in Calais for an hour with nobody bothering to work Bit miffed to have gotten up at 3 in the morning to then be waiting an hour for the next one... Unhooked the trailer with the Lotus on it, swapped the tyres and set off. Car seemed to work well, put on a bit of a show of V8 loudness and flying mud in places, all good. Then came across a little hill with a big rock in it. We were thinking maybe I'd hit the diff, no biggie, just do it slowly and see what happens. First try stopped just shy of getting up it, but no diff hitting, so all good. Backed up, gave it a bit more throttle (but not much), went up the hill, and... landed on the belly. Seemed to make a bit more noise that usual. Backed up, saw oil, instantly stopped the engine and got out to have a look. This happened: Must've hooked the handbrake drum on the rock... Drove back to the parking lot with loud crunchy noises, and breaking our record of breakage, now at half an hour on the site! Obviously a bit of an issue, as that was the tow car... so got the Lotus off the trailer, put the RR on, and started unbolting as much as possible. By the time the site closed, we had it all loose, but left a few bolts in the crossmember and transfer box so it wouldn't fall out when being towed. @miketomcat offered to tow it to his home behind the Ibex, which we gladly took him up on. But we still had to source a replacement box, because this wasn't going to be fixed with JB weld... Mike and @FridgeFreezer started calling around, when Piers showed up (not sure if he has an account on here?) and mentioned "oh, I have a P38 in a shed somewhere". It quickly became apparent that would be the only option, as everyone that could have one was closed until after New Year's, and the nearest one on eBay was in Bath... Fridge drove up to Piers' shed, which turned out to be many sheds filled to the brim with all kinds of treasure. And in the back of one, looking like it must've been there for 50 years (time travelling P38?), was a manual diesel P38 that had been put in there with a seized engine. Crawled under it, screamed at the amount of spiders, but decided it was our only option. Then realised it probably wouldn't fit because it's a manual, and mine's an auto, but some research showed that only the input gear should be different, and can be swapped fairly easily. Right then, undo many rusty bolts, preferably while minimally upsetting the spiders. Did I mention I really, really don't like spiders? Especially in cramped spaces. Anyway, after about 4 hours, we had it pried off the rusted output shaft and carried into Fridge's car. Made it to the hotel a little past midnight, and dropped like a brick. Including the time difference, that was a 22 hour day. Next day, off to Mike's place, to get the broken one out. That went fairly alright, apart from some exhaust studs at the downpipe breaking off, but we got those drilled and tapped. Inspecting it off the car, turns out it was cracked almost all the way around. The bit between @Escape's fingers is the only bit still attached: Still had the issue of the differing input gear on the other case though. But splitting the broken one open revealed that it should be fairly easy to just swap the output side from the new case onto the input side from the old case, without having to press the input gear out. That went smoothly except for one slight niggle that won't be named Had it all back together around 5, in time for New Year's celebrations, and made it to Brooklands the next day with the Lotus to put it among a bunch of very, very special cars there. And we made it home! Without too many strange crunchy noises. I'm fairly sure if I ever need to be declared clinically insane, this thread should count as plenty proof Thanks again to everyone involved for all the help! The only reason we can risk to go to the UK to do daft stuff like this is because of awesome friends that go above and beyond to help us out if (when) we break stuff.
  44. 8 points
    Just like to wish forum members near and far a very happy Christmas, have only been a member for a short while, although linked by an affinity for Landrovers in their many guises I find the assistance and advice given to what is essentially a faceless stranger for most members, exceptional .I personally should have joined years ago thank you.Whatever your projects or repairs are in 2019 I wish you success and fun in doing them Stephen
  45. 8 points
    Without pictures it didn't happen so...... Mike
  46. 8 points
    Just bought from mid direct lr defender 110 wolf soft top. Rang a few insurance companies who don't have it listed. Anyone pls recommend a good company? Need the cover note to register with dvla to get plates etc. Many thanks for any pointers.
  47. 7 points
    I think Britpart sell head gaskets in packs of ten.
  48. 7 points
    Unreliable viscous couplings are a PITA - had to change mine earlier this year; it wasn't even 24 years old..
  49. 7 points
    Hi folks, looking for some help here. I'm not a novice when it comes to LRs - I've done a few Series restos, including one nut and bolt build. I've had a few 300TDI Discos (all seemed great but rust became a problem later) and have had one ex-MoD vehicle (a lightweight - which despite being abused by its first private keeper was absolutely rust-free). Usually my land rover projects stay in the barn (there's a few Series projects in there now) and day-to-day I drive new, leased saloons. However my current lease is coming to an end and I really want to replace it with a non-project Defender - one with reliability that suits the miles I do on and off-road. As LR can't supply one new, I have been looking at the second hand market. The biggest thing for me is rust - any rust is too much - so I've been looking at the ex-MOD stocks. The biggest appeal is the choice - I could go and look at a dozen in a day. I can live with bad paint and basic interiors but what I want is one with no rust and with a good service history. Is it realistic to expect a demobbed Wolf to be an immediately-reliable daily driver (I'd need to pick it up then use it the next day) and equally is it realistic to expect to find one at Withams and the like with no rust - one that I can waxoyl regularly maintain and never need worry about having to replace the chassis/bulkhead? I only focus on the Wolf as it already has the TDI/R380 combo I like - I could repower a 2.5NAD Ninety to TDI spec but time is against me. The alternative is trawling the private ads for dry-stored TDi/TD5s or even (heaven forbid)… leasing a new Hilux. Also any tips on recommended civilian improvements for the XD would be very welcome.
  50. 7 points
    Roughly the plan im going for with my pulse, not sure between a gas or a diesel stove though


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy