Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/15/2020 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    Hi all, I'm currently rebuilding the LT230T 43D of our Td5 Defender after an issue in the transmission which eventually turned out to be in the front axle. Fortunately I enjoy doing this - I've always wanted to do a gearbox and I can honestly say that it is the best way to learn how it works and how to treat it. I also took the opportunity to make some photographs. Initially because the thing looks very nice - it's almost a pity to have to hide it in the casing - but I also realised that I have never seen comparable images. I intended to post these images later because some things should still be improved, but since a member is currently experiencing issues with his CDL, I figured that I already should post what I have. Presumably a lot of forum members know how it works, but for the others I'll try to explain a bit. Feel free to correct or add. Please mind that I have invested quite some effort in making these - so respect my copyright. This is the complete centre differential with shifting forks and output shafts: Here the forks are removed: and now the output shafts too: The large cylindrical volume is the diff carrier which houses the differential gears. The two large gears are the high gear (smaller) and low gear (larger). They each freely rotate on the shaft and as long as the main gearbox is in gear they're driven continuously by the input shaft through the intermediate gears which are not shown. The set of small teeth with large distance between them - dog teeth - are each part of the large sprocket: In between the dog teeth one can see a more finely splined part with a large grooved ring around it - the high/low gear selector ring. The splined part is fixed to the differential housing, and by shifting the selector ring over the dog teeth of one of the gears, that gear will take the diff housing along in its rotation. In these pictures the ring is between the two large sprockets, so the LT230 is in neutral. If the R380/LT77 would be in gear with the engine running, only the two gears would rotate - the diff housing wouldn't. In the following pictures the assembly is positioned the other way round - left and right are switched (one of the reasons I want to remake some of the images). Half of the diff housing is removed, one can see the actual differential. On the left is now a smaller ring over the splined end of the diff carrier. That's the diff lock selector. Again, you see a set of dog teeth, this time they are part of the output shaft (you can see the shafts below). The shafts can rotate freely, so the small differential gears can do their work in compensating any differences in rotation of both axles. So diff lock is off. Here the diff lock selector has moved over the dog teeth. The shaft is now connected to the diff housing. None of the parts can move or rotate in relation to one another - everything is connected as if it is one piece, so diff lock is on: These are just the output shafts and diff gears. You can see the dog teeth on the left. The spiral at the right drives the speedo cable. And here they are relative to the whole assembly (although the gears should be meshing, the main reason why I want to remake the series). Hope you enjoy it and that it can help some people. Greetings, Joris
  2. 5 points
    It's a professional stunt production for the upcoming James Bond film. I can tell you're a fan 😂
  3. 4 points
    And the whole contraption with the input and intermediate gears: J
  4. 4 points
    Well I'm collecting (hopefully not too much of) a project Land Rover on Sunday. Aim is by the time I leave the farm I'm collecting it from it'll be ready for an MOT so I can put it to use. Once that's on the road then and my (at least) double Land Rover garage is built then I can focus on sorting out a few things on the 110 (notably doors and a few wiring issues courtesy of a dodgy trailer in Scotland).
  5. 4 points
    Can't comment on strength upgrades but as far as a locking diff goes I would always prefer one I have total control over - air locker for me. Auto lockers are a misnomer as they are actually auto un-lockers and if they don't unlock they can introduce some interesting handling characteristics. Side slopes spring to mind! Just my 2p. There will be plenty of other opinions along shortly I am sure!
  6. 3 points
    If nothing else, this is a masterpiece of interactive animations / simulations but it's also a very clear and well-written guide to the basics of gears: https://ciechanow.ski/gears/
  7. 3 points
    Here's the update on the layered image. This time I also included the bearings: Greetings, Joris
  8. 3 points
    I was trying to keep the thread on topic but since you insist... Mum has a pic somewhere of the four alive generations of our dogs all in the same shot. Be a few weeks before they reach maximum cuteness (eyes are still closed and they're basically stimulated feeding and peeing machines at the moment).
  9. 3 points
    Personally I like lockers as they're doing nothing different when you don't need them and they're 100% locked when you want them, no change in behaviour, no extra wear day-to-day. You can lock them before you hit the nasty stuff, you can disengage them any time. A £5 tyre compressor will run them as they don't need any volume of air, just a little pressure - you could even use your spare tyre as an air reservoir. Mine run on engine vacuum so no compressor needed
  10. 3 points
    Yes I feel like a moron! The knob was twisted. And what I thought read as off was actually diff. Opps. 😜 Thanks for being helpful!
  11. 3 points
    Yeah I thought they were Shoguns - imagine the explosion of rust and plastic if three Shoguns hit the deck after getting four foot of air 😃
  12. 3 points
    greetings all - a quick update on this thread.... 1. we are still hating our LC 4,2's 2. replaced 5 rebuilt TD5's in the last 2 seasons and all have failed, they were rebuilt by a "reputable" LR shop in SA. we had been trying to figure out a reliable conversion that was properly engineered and it seems Cummins SA have come up with a solution... so our first "old lady" - is being refitted with a 2,8 cummins that is derated to about 140hp and 360nm, more than the TD5 but not that much more to kills drivetrains, watch this space and I will update you on ow it goes. Cummins South Africa are going about it the right way and doing their homework intensively, they will load test the vehicle once it is complete with both an upgraded cooling pack (radiator and charge cooler) and the standard cooling pack and we are hoping to have the vehicle ready to drive back in Botswana by end April.... transmission is rebuilt Ashcroft R380 with HD bearing and LT230 with the heavy duty option and the ATB. hold thumbs for us that it works out, then we can throw heaps of money at new engines in old ladies....
  13. 3 points
    Personal experience of trying britpart, allmakes and bearmach. Yours is clearly different. I haven't had to send anything back to bearmach. Same cant be said for the others. I would deal with the seller rather than bearmach though so wouldnt experience their customer service anyway.
  14. 2 points
    Fantastic find. I've been cutting some gears myself lately: Next up are helicals. I needed to cut a lot of spur gears to drive the dividing head from the table feed first, though. Gear tech is a fascinating subject.
  15. 2 points
    I've gone through a number of design possibilities in my head, that being one of them. Was to do what a French friend had - he simply used his forklift to swap bodies on the back of his 110 Hi-Cap, the downside of that is you require a forklift, not too much of an issue at home or at my nan's in the Highlands (can call on the neighbour with a telehandler) but a pain elsewhere. Something along the lines of GrizzlyNBear's camper setup with screw jacks either by hand or by drill / impact. The Sandringham already has detachable sides and corner posts so you can slot in and lock into the corners easily enough. But it's a bit, well, manual... Seen first at a friends yard a, I think, DAF lorry with Hiab on the back that could swap out half size containers using the method you describe, neat idea. Downside on the 6x6 is that I'd lose quite a lot of space behind the cab for the Hiab setup. As it stands the bed on the back can actually take most of the length of Dad's Argocat so had this slightly mad idea of rather than using the trailer to take the Argo to Scotland I could drive it onto the back of the 6x6. Who wouldn't want to see a 6x6 with an 8x8 on the back of it going down the road?! Then I came up with the hook-loader idea. It retains the full size bed and is easy to swap bodies so ticks both of those boxes. The hook loader idea has even more benefits because it's very simple to build in the ability to turn it into a tipper (in fact in the simplest versions it's just a locking pin). It also makes loading heavier loads much simpler. At the moment the 6x6 is downplated from 4 tonnes to 3.5 because the previous owner was a diabetic and didn't have a Cat C license. I'm too young to have inherited it and haven't got around to sitting the test (I'm thinking about it). However working off the design max payload of 2 tonnes you need a comparatively huge HIAB to lift 2 tonnes. I actually sent off a request for some dimensions / quote to Palfinger and HIAB about their small knuckle-boom cranes but neither have got back to me. Regardless their smaller ones which from the dimensions they supplied would suit the size of the vehicle struggle to lift a tonne. Now that's just not sensible - the 6x6 can take 2 tonne so I want 2 tonne , in all seriousness it would be a handy machine for collecting smaller mills / lathes etc. There was also the issue about actually driving the Argo onto the back of it - some ramps would be required etc. With the hook loader idea you can simply unload the bed so it's flat on the floor, drive on, strap down and pick back up. The same can be said of the heavier items to load, provided the main ram on the loader is sized appropriately then it shouldn't have an issue picking up the maximum payload. As it stands once I pick it up the main thing will be to get it MOTd and usable and not fart around with it too much. There are so many jobs around my new(ish) place that I've been putting off I don't want it out of commission for too long and the pick-up flat/bed nature is going to be useful for that regardless. The next step would be to put hydraulics onto it so that if Bob ever gives me the cherry-picker then it can always be mounted on the bed manually. Once the hydraulics are in place I might look into quickly converting it into a tipper. The hook loader I was planning on making it so that it's a bolt on frame to the chassis as much as possible so it doesn't affect, what's left, of the originality but also means it can be tested separately without taking the 6x6 out of commission. Anyway - plenty of plans just need the time to do them!
  16. 2 points
    Through drive on the centre Rover axle and then Salisbury on the rear - have a read of this thread as it's got some piccies of the setup. PTO is still available for use and I might know someone with one of the fabled LT95 PTO adapters (conveniently with a hydraulic pump on the back) sat in a shed. At some point I'll put hydraulics on it and contemplating building a hook loader frame for it to have different bodies for quick swap (mobile workshop, deer stalking, camping, general pick-up etc). There are so many jobs around the new place I've been putting off until this arrives because having a pick-up bed would be so handy
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Has he gone yet? What time is he back and when will he post some pics
  19. 2 points
    seen on FB, from Dave van Graan, a chap who is doing a walking tour around Namibia: "Here are a few photos of the new Land Rover Defender. Land Rover is currently conducting a 2 month test on these vehicles. They drive much the same route that I walked plus a few other tough routes from Opuwu, van Zyls Pass, to the Skeleton coast National Park, Puros, Sesfontein and back to Opuwu. They do not spare these cars and they are really well tested. They really have a new look and nothing like the old Defender." if you google some of the places he mentions, especially Van Zyl's Pass, you will understand how tough these vehicles are having it.
  20. 2 points
    ...and there you have it in one post , not one of JLR's current products have any long term durability in severe use and no hope of in the field repairs when something lets go . Designed , marketed and sold for tarmac use and lifestyle statement not use . I also thought the vehicles in the video looked like Trooper/shogun cross breeds. Steve b
  21. 2 points
    For a car like that you can't go wrong with the Wright Offroad matting. It's I think 3 part matting system, one for the seatbox, one for the tunnel and then the footwells. They actually fitted them on later military defenders I believe too.
  22. 2 points
    Not if they've designed the air spring pistons correctly - the pistons are normally shaped so that the spring rates drop as the bladder is extended. I.e. the suspension becomes softer not harder as it is raised. That's not true of some early systems, but it is true of most (all?) modern ones.
  23. 2 points
    For what you're doing Ian a standard diff and some practice will go a long way. I've done some silly things in the past and not managed to break anything but then I have a modicum of mechanical sympathy and I get the impression you do to. I'm with bish and prefer having the option to manually engage when required. I swear I've posted this recently (perhaps over on defender2.net) but I went a slightly different route with my 300Tdi's Salisbury axle. I was lucky enough to live at the time not too far from Nige and popped down to see him. He showed me the main contributor to the Salisbury's "strength" the cross pin in the centre of the diff. If you see this side-by-side with a 2-pin or 4-pin centre from a Rover diff it's (in the words of Nige) feckin massive. If you change the centre out then you're basically throwing away the main benefit of a Salisbury. I don't know how the auto lockers compare but the only significant option for me was an ARB air locker and they have a number of known faults (plastic cages, seals that wear out if you don't use them often enough) as well as not being as strong as the original Salisbury centre. They're also becoming more difficult to source both the diffs and the spares for them - I think Nige has now manufactured a metal version of the plastic carrier and has them in stock. Nige proposed swapping out the rear axle for a P38/Wolf Short Nose variant because then I could utilise Ashcroft's air-locker which is regarded to be one of the best lockers for a Land Rover axle out there. Despite swapping out the rear axle (and giving the Salisbury away to a friend - OK I owed him for a cambelt kit) it still worked out cheaper despite going for an "Ultimate Super-doopa Spec build". Along with the build I put in HD half-shafts and HD drive flanges both from Ashcrofts, which I know moves the weak point (well mine turned out to be the crank shaft !). The Salisbury casing might technically be slightly stronger than a Rover unit but unless you're regularly overloaded (by overloaded I mean several tonnes over) or drive like a loonatic off-road then you've got nothing to worry about. In fact you're probably going to see more of a benefit of swapping to the Rover diff pumpkin because it's not as substantial as the Salisbury unit and you gain some ground clearance that way. I'm running a diff guard on the front after installing the Ashlocker (had one lying around and thought I'd best protect my new toy) but nothing on the rear. I don't (usually) drive like a prat off-road and have never had an issue with clouting things to the point of doing damage. What am I saying in this long winded post? Well swapping the axle out may be an option, it will open up the option of an air-locker or LSD depending on what way you want to go. Equally I think the parts are more readily available (i.e. Ashcrofts) than alternatives for the Salisbury. Having said all that I've never failed in the scenarios you've described with a bog standard Salisbury, but going up to the Highlands stalking out on our land there have definitely been situations where a locker (or three) have been required but that's some stupid terrain. Rather than keeping the vehicle off the road longer and spending time rebuilding it why not just use it and practice? Driver ability goes a lot further than all the tricked out toys. Having said all that having a locker does allow you to creep over obstacles rather than rely on momentum to get you through. To the point it can take some of the fun out of it but you can sit there smug crawling through things people have gone over the handlebars of their quads on (@darthdicky)
  24. 2 points
    Looking at that particular photo if the suspension is in standard height I'd have said that at worst it has the same if not better ground clearance than a standard "Defender Classic", remember there's not a huge amount of clearance under the diff. If you hit something hard off-road in the classic Defender you're likely going to hit the diff and in standard setup smash in the diff housing. In the new Defender you'll hear a crunch as you break some plastic and then likely a whump as you hit a sub-frame. I know which is more likely to drive away in that scenario. When I compared my L322 and Defender side-by-side the L322 in normal ride height had more ground clearance than the Defender. I can't see JLR making the new Defender have less clearance than a Range Rover. Lifted up to it's off-road setting on the air suspension it was a far cry from "stiff as an empty cattle truck and very unpleasant at any sort of speed". It certainly wasn't diff, as you approached the limit where it would drop the suspension (30mph if I remember correctly) then it was unpleasant, not because it was stiff but because it was so god damn high off the ground and body roll was substantial. Hands down if you're comparing show-room spec to show-room spec the newer Land Rover offerings (talking proper line-up such as RR Vogue, RR Sport, Disco and lets face it almost certainly the new Defender) will absolutely trounce a "Defender Classic" off-road. The only place I can see the daddy of them beating them is on width and (at least to begin with) cost of repair. On the subject of air-suspension, again my personal experience, I don't any major downside to it. The original front set of airbags on my L322 got replaced at 140k which is approximately 60k more than the set of springs on my 110 lasted. The original rears from 2007 are still on there with the new owner and I think it's approaching the 200k mark, I can find out on the weekend. Yes they were a bit of a pain when they went because I was on the bump stops but cost-wise I'd put them on-par with top-of-the-line springs and dampers for a Defender and almost certainly more comfortable. They offer far more flexibility over a coil setup and as @FridgeFreezer pointed out earlier in the thread if you're worried about puncturing one on a long expedition they don't actually occupy much space (certainly the rears flat-pack but the fronts not quite as compact but certainly comparable space to a spare spring). But what do I know I haven't owned a modern Land Rover and taken it off-road the same places as I've taken a Defender, a decent chunk of forum members can corroborate that
  25. 2 points
    Possibly the biggest insult for poor old Land Rover is when this image appeared on my screen I thought it was 3 Isuzu Troopers jumping Although in the 2 tone bodywork they actually look a bit like Suzuki Vitaras. Both great vehicles before this gets heated... By the way that's a screen shot of the video, don't sit there clicking it...
  26. 2 points
  27. 2 points
    I picked one up on Thursday and have given it a try. Very pleased with it. I wasn't sure if my small and old compressor would work with it. It is a 20 plus year old Clarke Jumbo which has no air tank, only 0.65hp and 3.5 CFM. The plasma cutter has a 'restricted' (narrow bore) compressor Quick Connector so you can't get much air through it anyway. It works fine. So far I have tried it on 3mm Ali, 1mm steel, 2mm steel and 7 mm steel. Works great. According to the spec's, it should be able to cut 9mm steel. Hope this helps, Regards, Diff.
  28. 2 points
    I did a LR Experience day in a D5 and was impressed with how it managed the locking rear diff - it would lock at a standstill (or at least the display showed it as locked) to help pull away, and disengage as you turned to help it get round corners. It would disengage going downhill to ensure it didn't push it off course apparently, which seemed a little un-intuitive to me. Certainly worked well though on slippery but solid based ground. It was constantly locking and unlocking as you drove - not like an ARB where you just stick it in for a difficult section and then take it out again. Have to say I was amazed by it's ability (still looks awful though) and I think the new Defender will be a very capable vehicle, it's just a shame it's not anything like the old one. Rich
  29. 2 points
    Given that 12v 50w halogens are usually rated at 1200-1500 lumens the 340lm on the led ones will mean they will be less bright, try and match the lumen values not the power.
  30. 1 point
    The T-Max twin air compressors and their clones are cheap and work well, @miketomcat did Ladoga with a borrowed air locker and a cheap compressor on a manual switch if memory serves - no tank or pressure switch etc., just run the compressor for a couple of seconds to lock the diff and switch it off again. Air suspension tanks from luxury cars are cheap & compact - I have a BMW X5 tank under my seat as a vacuum reservoir, cost me ~£15 delivered.
  31. 1 point
    Plank of wood... I'd look into something that has multiple purposes and doesn't occupy much space if it's an everyday runaround because you'll soon get fed up of it getting in the way. I must say that in all my years of offroading I've not actually needed to carry such a thing. Perhaps I've been lucky but there's always been a convenient rock or branch or something lying nearby. Or found harder ground...
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Timing was a baw hair out. Perfect now though. Old gold goin like a train
  34. 1 point
    If you're only 5 miles from it I'd say go and have a chat with it (although be wary of your monies because he tends to offer show deals ). Bear in mind that ATBs / LSDs are (usually) reactive not proactive, i.e. they respond to loss of traction. You can't get them (unless you have a more advanced unit like in the modern LRs) to lock up in anticipation which is the main reason I went locker not auto. Personally I've not driven a basic (i.e. Defender) with an auto locker so don't know how they behave first hand. The L322 I had did take some of the fun out of things - it was simply right foot to the floor if you wanted to get there quicker or burst a tyre, it quite literally took care of everything else. One other point not highlighted might be the additional cost associated with an air locker (i.e. the compressor etc). I kept mine relatively cheap by going down the route of an AC compressor re-purposed for on-board air (think the whole setup came in under £100). Which ever route you go you get the added benefit of having an on-board air supply for pumping tyres, etc. My setup has a dinky little P38 air tank behind the rear wheel and a normal PCL fitting in the boot for running air tools etc. The output from the AC compressor is frankly ridiculous and is more than enough to run my 50 R-Tech plasma cutter. In fact the compressor keeps cutting in and out because the plasma doesn't use the air quickly enough, and this is running through piddly little 6mm OD pipes.
  35. 1 point
    some more photos, including a plot of their route:
  36. 1 point
    If you put your foot on the brake pedal then start the engine the pedal should go down another inch as the vacuum builds up , If I remember correctly,
  37. 1 point
    True. I'm accumulating second hand parts for refurbishment.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    The R at the end of LT230R means it has parallel ROLLER bearings, whereas the T in LT230T means it has later TAPER roller bearings.
  40. 1 point
    A Detroit locker in the Salisbury is the way to go. Very easy install and you won't know it is there other than having lots of traction. add a set of Ashcroft chrome- moly halfshafts and you will never break it.
  41. 1 point
    Thanks western, very helpful
  42. 1 point
    Thanks Western that's a great help. I'm still suprised as to why the vin number doesnt contain the paint code though, all the other posts about codes all suggest the vin number but I've nothing of the sort?
  43. 1 point
    Nice work, Thanks for posting the photo's certainly help to visulize what goes on in the transfer case while in motion.
  44. 1 point
    Well worth the money if you can stretch to one, ultimately you can save a small fortune in cutting discs, also consumables are very cheap I think I paid about £16 for a selection of nozzles and ceramics that generally last a couple of years great for cutting out rusty sections etc regards Stephen
  45. 1 point
    As long as it isn't aluminum, mix up a batch of caustic soda. That stuff will strip off the coating. Just be very careful with your hands, face and eyes.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    JSCS Ashchurch is/or was the central vehicle depot near Gloucester, FD AMB is Field Ambulance units, RAMC is Royal Army medical corps, CSS-BN is Combat services support battalion. I can't find a explanation of CSAT.
  48. 1 point
    Final spec? Ahhhhhh, sort of. Single point injection, probably, with a series manifold. Exhaust is ACR system throughout, with ACR cam. I think it's an ACR stage 2 head, not 100% on that, it's at least 20 years old so Roland at ACR isn't certain, but the number matches his records. As to the ECU I'm between microsquirt and speedaudrino, probably microsquirt, as it's a more mature platform, and might be more robust. I've a friend who is adamant that a SU carb is better, but I want to play with injection, so I'm sticking with that. Power? No idea? 90+hp? Torque? 150 lb ft? As long as it can push the RRC diffs, and 7.50 tyres, I'm happy. I like spritely performance, and torque, so am focusing on grunt.
  49. 1 point
    Keep at it JU.....it will suddenly "click" and you will be a happy clappy!. TIG is one the of the things I am chuffed to bits to have learnt to do.....its amazingly relaxing too ( until it goes wrong:rofl: ) and really is something you'll love to do. Sadly j dont even bother with the MIG now if I can TIG it !.... When I passed mybknsteuctor ....who was brilliant and a hard as nails northerner with evil sense of humour...handed me my certificates and said " here you go Nige .....like when you passed your driving test ....you have a vague clue ....now yoj learn from now on ....and every weld is a chance to improve ". Thouthtvhe was just being a **** at the time...he wasnt... now welded up.today pegged casing 644.....and I have casing 211 on the bench for the rebuild ...I'll show picture of 644...not 211 !. The difference of practise is everything and you will go all nerdy over welding from now on . Keep at it 101% worth the pain and effort.....and anyone thinking of it ....it IS hard but absolutely do learn ....changes your views on welding forever and gives you the ability to bore people senseless checking things like welds on railings at the beach commenting on the undercut...and having a wife look at you sigh and shake head in utter disbelief:D Here you go casing 644 cast steel pre heated and tigged with mild S275 with specula tungsten and dissimilar rods and post heated and cooled... Love tig !!
  50. 1 point
    Gasless mig for bodywork is absolute garbage. Stay away. What seems to have happened is low end tool manufacturers have found a way to bodge "flux core" MIG welding, which is used in some industrial processes (though often with gas as well), into "you don't need to buy gas for it, innit mate". I'm pretty good with MIG - currently coded - but really struggled to get what I'd consider a "good" weld out of a gasless machine helping a mate fix a chassis. It's nasty. Really, really, really nasty. Easier to blow holes, harder to fill them. Harder to get decent penetration, very easy to get porous, slag filled, weak snot. Funnily enough, his welds improved immensely when I persuaded him to rent a gas bottle and switch over. TFS is excellent - he essentially runs a welding school, so knows how to teach, as well as what he's doing with a torch. Welding tips and tricks and weld.com are my other goto channels for welding education. Great explanation, quality arc shots, generally cover stuff a hobbyist is interested in.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy