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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/15/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Hi Everyone Time for a bunch of pics from my refurb and winch install onto my series 3. So i managed to bag a bargain off ebay, and this is how it arrived. So time for a strip down and see what it needed, as its had a hard life on the rear of a recovery truck from what i could find out. It was not in a such a bad shape, worn brushes, and lots of grime and neglect. I started off by ordering new brushes After some prep i had the whole thing painted in Grey, plus some new gaskets and plastic cover from the UK Got the commutator polished and started reassembly. Old VS New brushes. Fully assembled back to its glory Than it was time to start the Fabrication for a new bumper to accommodate the winch. I was lucky enough that the sale of winch had the winch plate included (had it blasted), so i incorporated that into my build. Now i wanted a specific style of bumper which was mounted higher than standard and looked more or less like what i had before ( standardish looking) . So went out and got some RHS........ and started mocking things up. To save on fab time i decided to use my old bumper as a doner for the chassis mounts (easier i thought at that time) and grafted them onto the RHS......... Next a quick check that it looked ok....... So i got some 3mm plate and doubled up the top and bottoms, tieing in the the old bumper mounts, its a lot of welding but the result was pretty pleasing. I then added some gussets at the old bumper mounts to make sure it will not go anywhere Than it was the light bars turn to be fitted, since i always liked the shape it was in, and its been on the vehicle trough the 3 bumpers i thought it was only appropriate that it gets reused. Its than off to the galvanizers for that series look............... So next was vehicle fitting............ i already had an extra X member right at the front at the dumb irons, so i added some more Gussets at the corners. And finally mounting the whole lot back onto the Landy.............. This is where i am the moment, next is wiring the winch up with an aftermarket winch control box. Than time for a new synth rope. Hope you all find it interesting, sorry for the long pic heavy post................ Regards Grem
  2. 3 points
    While accepting that the most likely cause of 'slow to respond' is a worn out compressor (I agree they can be overhauled. Compared to most jobs you do on a Land Rover it's a bit fiddly, take a patience pill before you start). BUT, unless you do something about the suspension airbags the compressor will still struggle to respond, and will quickly wear out again. Look closely at the inflated airbags, both at standard height and at full height. You are looking for 'surface crazing', especially where they roll over. If you see it, even though you cannot detect any leaks through the crazed area, then start (more) reading, this time on replacing the suspension airbags. For obvious reasons, second hand units from a breaker are false economy. In my view, it's likely that the suspension problems have come to light because you have used the off-road settings. I suspect many users don't use the control. As for Scotland, if you can get one Schrader valve in the supply to the reservoir tank, then that is your 'get out of jail' card, although it will help to carry a decent tyre inflater pump as well. BTW, if you are using 'suspension on off-road setting' to enable access for working on the car, please do put a couple of chassis stands under the chassis rails before you start work. We don't want the next post from your account to be from your wife asking how can she raise the vehicle to extract your body!! Good Luck, and enjoy.
  3. 2 points
    Drive flange bolts should be hi tensile 10.9 check your photos for proof!
  4. 2 points
    Then finally tonight I added the side cabinets. Due to the bend in the main rails these needed a bit of shimming, only about 1mm or so. I’ve then started filling it back up... all whilst wondering how the hell it all fitted into just the two bottom boxes! I’ll do a toolbox tour if people want to see it . Also remembered while that was uploading that I need to sort the shelves for the cupboards and then also decide on the doors/hinges etc.
  5. 2 points
    Knotted wire wheel in a grinder will blast that off! Looking very good, they are made of decent thickness steel, so no too bad to weld up
  6. 1 point
    This is insane overkill and I love it. Now get back to working on the bl**dy truck!
  7. 1 point
    Couple of silly little jobs today. The grill had been painted black, so I've put it back to silver as I did not like black, didn't look right, also sanded back the rear chassis and lift handles and resprayed. Looking to take the seat box off in the week
  8. 1 point
    OK, they are in the garage awaiting call up if required, 👍
  9. 1 point
    Ralph you’re a star for looking those out ! Hang on to them for the minute and if I have any problems with mine I’ll give you a shout. I’m determined to get to the bolt saga finale !! Didn’t have time today as the weather has turned and was also helping a mate get his diff back in on his truck 😊👍 his drive members are defo the thin type on his 2012 truck. So at least I know mines are thicker.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Found the 2 spare in my garage, complete with the hex head 10.9ht bolts & spring washers, willing to post all or just the bolts if you want to try them on your rear axle, some photo's
  12. 1 point
    Have a look on www.discovery2.co.uk I'm sure Urban Panzer did a good write up of a re-build on there - with photos.
  13. 1 point
    They are the same as yours, the thing I don’t get is the original bolt slips in and out no problem but the new one won’t slip in past the drive member to reach the thread. I’ll have a hunt for a pack of bolts I’m sure I have somewhere and see if they will fit. Blooming engineers shop was closed early today.
  14. 1 point
    Britannica restorations has a few youtube videos on door seals which are worth watching.
  15. 1 point
    The picture with the chipped dust cap is the rear Ralph 👍
  16. 1 point
    Fitted the new S3 steering box earlier yesterday before work, just got to fit the new drag link and ball joints and fill the box up with oil which will be done tomorrow, will post pic's tomorrow as well.
  17. 1 point
    I got bearmach and 3 years still water tight and soft
  18. 1 point
    Was in a bit of a rush and it was hissing down. I’ll get it checked better tomorrow 👍
  19. 1 point
    Genuine can’t be beaten for fit and quality, but daft price. Close second for VFM are the Bearmach versions, nearly as soft but much cheaper. The Britpart ones were shocking, too thick......not enough ‘squish’ and useless in the cold.
  20. 1 point
    I ummed and arred about this for ages. Bit the bullet and ordered Genuine, don't regret it for a second. A dream to fit compared to a mate who went for a cheap pattern part. He had to faff / swear / struggle for a few hours per door and his were a poor fit and he ended up replacing them in 6 months. Somethings are just worth paying for. I did both sides in about 15 mins. Do it right, do it once. Good luck
  21. 1 point
    The more I look at the pics the more I’m not sure what I’ve got. But BX110095M seems to bring up at least hex bolts. Trip to Fyfe & Mcgrouther tomorrow I think.
  22. 1 point
    Bowie69 much thanks for the wire wheel advice way better than standard wire wheel no more scraping ta very much regards Stephen
  23. 1 point
    Local scrap man contacted me to see if I wanted this No use for it really but couldn't turn it down for £30 needs a wee bit of welding and general clean up also some lights
  24. 1 point
    The funny bit is I stopped at least twice while I was building the second bracket to make certain I bent it the right way lol yep But got is sorted now And this is them mounted up And a little teaser of hopefully tomorrows finished setup... the bottom mount I'm really enjoying this, sheet metal is wonderful to work with.... there is the whole how do I fold it with what tools I've got.... working out the sequence that makes the best use of the box n pan folder and gives me the least amount of hammer forming lol then when it is formed its impressive how strong a bit of structure makes it and how light you can get it
  25. 1 point
    I’ll measure mine later and put a pic or two up. I remember having trouble getting the dust caps on when I bought new ones. So they might be the thicker type..... they might 😂 👍
  26. 1 point
    Thanks Ralph that would be great. 😊👍
  27. 1 point
    If the plastic hub cap has a external ridge at the base they are for the older thick drive flanges, the later ones don't have a external ridge. I can add a photo of my thick flanges in morning, if it helps.
  28. 1 point
    They are nothing special just 8.8 high tensile bolts, An example https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?q=8.8ht+bolts+50mm+long&client=ms-android-vf-gb-revc&biw=360&bih=654&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&prmd=sivn&prds=num:1,of:1,epd:740246495680115981,paur:ClkAsKraX0-tmhvmiUAhcW6U_ceGOit95zTm1i07SSSHvR4Il8oUdVD-XlVYLHjggs6ShJpdN09j2xxzwWQ9zoVdSV-HV3j8R4J7m3D9ZeLT0Hm0Yopbp38Y6hIZAFPVH73TPVUp2GbXwm0VDkTtFP93nKpvxg,prmr:1,pid:740246495680115981,cs:1 The reason for changing to flanged head is for the production machines to hold the heads as a normal hex head would slide deeper into the production tool socket, whereas the flange stops that happening.
  29. 1 point
    DC, take one of what you have into an engineering supplier and ask for more of the same 😊 Mo
  30. 1 point
    I found after a while the spring mechanism seized up a little, I spray wd40 into the hole at the bottom and agitated the wing mirror arm back n forth and that seemed to free up the spring and locator thingy, been fine since.
  31. 1 point
    The vehicle is very original apart from electronic points , someone has offered me the steering wheel for £15 so its worth a go and I will of course keep the original to replace , thanks , I appreciate all of your suggestions .
  32. 1 point
    Sometimes things just don't go to plan lol.... making brackets to hold the top of the radiator made up hammer form dies etc.... get the first one done, has the fun factor that I'm happy with so hammer out the next one, get it to the last stage adding the captive bolts and had it sitting on the bench next to the original..... lol hmmmm what should be a mirror copy.... isn't Hmmmm kinda copied the first one..... that doesn't work so well given I have to weld them to each side of the roll cage X brace..... oh well there's always tomorrow night lol
  33. 1 point
    Well I am long overdue for an update on this, it didn't last long........... the repaired compressor I thought was probably at fault (just self doubt really), and the valveblock came out again for a more in depth investigation, but basically the schraeder valve solution (one on each corner) is really very effective as a temporary measure and so it remained in place ever since,...... right up until last week when at the annual roadworthiness test the guy (contrary to the last two) decided that not having the control system working was a 'fail'. Well I wasn't happy but it probably was time to get back on it! Almost 2 years ago now I had traded in the compressor for a 'professional' recon one and bought Viton o-rings and a new dryer, all of which waited on me getting a 'Roundtuit'. So, a few hours of catch up and the valve block in bits again and all new o-rings, .... dusted off the EASUNLOCK freeware and ...... nothing..... Clearing and interrogating the faults gave very variable results, but two or three times the list came down to just two, one of which was rear left height sensor, which has actually had a broken mount for some time, the other 'vehicle moved', which it hadn't. Took a punt on the RL sensor and Rimmer Bros. sent me one overnight (Ordered Mon. am, arrived Tuesday pm, that is a first in this neck of the woods!). Fitted it this morning and lo and behold it stopped bleeping at me! Almost there...... I had reconnected all the lines with t-pieces in place so that I could, apart from anything else, pre-inflate the system at least to 7.5bar with the little workshop compressor, including the reservoir. This was intended to save the system compressor working too hard initially, and allowed me to include a pessure guage. After a little while it became apparent that the system compressor although turning wasn't contributing anything?? I'll admit to being a bit stumped by that. Took the compressor line off the valve block and connected a spare length of 6mm nylon, ....... output precisely zilch! Now I was pretty sure I hadn't over-stressed it with the precaution of pre-charging the system so I was a bit puzzled. I unplugged it and brought it indoors for a closer look, cut the seals and opened it up (nearly 12 months out of warranty anyway)..... the crank grubscrew had been seated on the round section of the shaft, not the flat!, 10 minutes later we have this....... This pressure switch cut out at just over 120psi; and it feels very good to have the whole thing working properly again after all this time
  34. 1 point
    Removing the gearbox with velly velly good kwality engine crane 😁 Crusty outrigger 😳😳😳 More tinworm 🥴 Humble assistant enjoying his lunch 😃
  35. 1 point
    Don't use aftermarket caps, they're carp ! I've had no luck with any of them. Bite the bullet and buy new genuine caps, they'll fit more easily, won't fall off and providing you don't abuse them won't split. HTH Mo
  36. 1 point
    They will fit, I didn't replace them, thats not rust on the bolt just copaslip.
  37. 1 point
    Thanks Ralph. Looks like the AFu1181 will be ordered and tried.
  38. 1 point
    Great thread Gary , I like the picture of the rolling chassis with a WD40 can and a cuppa on the chassis . The top two fluids required for all projects I did a 110 HCPU chassis change by taking the complete body/front end off a few years ago , it worked really well and reduces any distraction's/project creep too . Also great to hear your son is fully involved and capable . I'll be following this as it progresses cheers Steve b
  39. 1 point
    Next we modified the clutch housing so suit the series gearbox and fitted a new seal and bolted it on 🤗
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Could the non thermostat approach not work nicely combined with a water to oil heatexchanger? That way your gearboxoil would always be sort of the right temp? /mads
  42. 1 point
    I think you are right. Britpart retrim and outlast covers should sort things. Maybe after the engine goes in.
  43. 1 point
    Nice bit of kit that, and certainly a bargain at £50. i have an old upright version of that, and it has served me well for quite some time. As in the pipe just above the data plate? That is a pipe to relieve pressure from above the piston. The compressor is equipped with a starting unloader which relieves cylinder pressure when the compressor stops, permitting it to start against a light load. This increases the life of the drive motor and belts and also reduces the possibility of tripping the motor overload relay.The unloader incorporates a pilot valve which is actuated centrifugally by unloader weights attached to the end of the crankshaft
  44. 1 point
    It's a test vehicle. Perhaps the operational requirements were to recover the vehicle on skates, regardless of fault? I'm giving them the benefit of doubt, I admit, but it could be the driver was following instructions irrespective of the fault.
  45. 1 point
    Looks lovely,.... its the start of a slippery slope though, when the engine runs like a swiss watch you'll want the hydraulics to work better and then the bodywork will want tidying.......
  46. 1 point
    That's a great write up!!
  47. 1 point
    I am a veteran of this event; A great experience, not to be missed. But it is a big undertaking. We did it in 2009. We had help of the HOFS team which was good with regards to things like Visas, route maps, and general do's and dont's. From memory, a good 5k was spend and this was without a service crew. In hindsight it was ridiculously positive thinking on my part to think I'd drive there, compete and drive back, but I suppose if you don't believe you can do it, you would never start this kind of event. In the end we did finish the event in 6th place in the TR2 class (modified production vehicles with tyres upto 36"). These type of events tend to be all about survival; 50% attrition rate tends to be normal. So that is your first priority; work your way through every eventuality and at least have a plan if it does go wrong. We broke a cambelt on day 6 due to excessive water intake in the cambelt chest, and eventually, on the way home, just before the border with Finland, we did a big end bearing due to a rock clouting the sump on one of the stages and partially blocking the sif. So we did not fullfill the aim of driving it home after finishing. I have no regrets about doing it, and would say go for it if you can. After all, you only regret the things you didn't do. Would I do it again? Well it was only 2 years ago since I did the last big event, and it usually takes me 6 years to forget the bad bits of an event and get motivated for the next one. plus I didn't have any kids at the time. But recently Mini me no2. got born, so that probably settles it.... I am always willing to help, among with the usual suspects on here, so you have come to the right forum! Daan
  48. 1 point
    Next time you do change the fob, follow the correct procedure and you shouldn't have any issues... You can find the correct procedure here: "You'll need: A CR2032 button battery, LR recommend Panasonic. A small screwdriver to separate the two sides of the fob. Your Land Rover! > Sit in the drivers seat with the drivers door closed. Keep it closed for the duration of the battery replacement*. > Turn the ignition to position II, return to position 0 and remove the key. > Gently split the key fob casing into its two parts, taking care not to damage the rubber seal. > Slide the old battery out of the clip, avoid touching the circuit board or other components. > Insert new battery. Don't leave any finger prints on it which can cause premature discharge. > Push the two halves of the fob back together. > Operate the key fob at least 4 times to re-synchronise it with the car. It should lock/unlock. > Turn the ignition back to position II and check it will start. *The immobiliser has a passive re-arm function which activates within 30 seconds if the drivers door is opened. If you don't open the driver's door this period is extended to 5 minutes. If you only have one fob and the immobiliser re-arms during the battery change you have to go through the re-synchronisation, which involves turning the key in the ignition numerous times and opening/closing the drivers door repeatedly." Taken off the internet For now you will have to try the above, although I believe there is a resyncronisation procedure you can use if that doesn't work. What that is and where to find it I don't know - but a quick call to a LR garage may help.
  49. 1 point
    You need a sacrificial socket that's just too small to fit over the nut - hammer it on and undo.
  50. 0 points
    1st place i tried Ralph, nothing doing for code L


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