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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2019 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    Anoraks on standby! As some of you will know, you can decode some Land Rover fastener part numbers into their actual threads & dimensions, like this: BT606106 = Bolt, 3/8 UNF x 1 1/4" Anyway, whilst perusing the S3 Parts book for a few bits and bobs I ended up down quite a rabbit hole and ended up making this: Land Rover / BL fastener part number decoder-o-tron It should get the basics right but I found a lot of previously un-mentioned variations in the parts book so if anyone has their anorak on and feels like filling in the blanks that would be super awesome. Areas of doubt & uncertainty: AB, AC, AD, AE, AR = Drive Screws (self tappers) but not sure on the differences AB,AC,AD imperial (AB6...) are by Screw No. (EG AB606... equals screw with imperial No.6 thread) but no idea of other thread-forms? AJ = Spire nut, not clear on details AK = Captive/spring nut, not clear on details AM = Bolt, "Special", no idea BD = Probably Blanking Plug but no idea on sizing? FX = Nut of some special sort (flanged or jam)? GG = Mudguard screw, only seen one part number so no idea on what's different about this MR = Pop rivet but no idea on size or type NC, ND = Castle nut but unclear on details NK = Captive nut / lokut / rivnut...??? NH, NM, NR = Nut, hex, not clear on detail NN, PN = Rivnut, type/details unclear NY, NZ = Nylock nit, not clear on difference PA, PC, PS = Pins, sizing not clear (very guesswork) RA, RF, RT, RU = Rivets, details unclear SA, SE, SH = Screw, differences unclear SF = Screw, Flanged, different to FS? TD, TE = Studs, very vague on details WA, WB, WC, WD, WP = Washers, what's the difference? WE, WF = Shakeproof washers, details / sizing unclear WK = Cup Washer, very vague on details WL, WM, WS = Spring washers, what's the difference?
  2. 10 points
    Hi all, I'm currently rebuilding the LT230T 43D of our Td5 Defender after an issue in the transmission which eventually turned out to be in the front axle. Fortunately I enjoy doing this - I've always wanted to do a gearbox and I can honestly say that it is the best way to learn how it works and how to treat it. I also took the opportunity to make some photographs. Initially because the thing looks very nice - it's almost a pity to have to hide it in the casing - but I also realised that I have never seen comparable images. I intended to post these images later because some things should still be improved, but since a member is currently experiencing issues with his CDL, I figured that I already should post what I have. Presumably a lot of forum members know how it works, but for the others I'll try to explain a bit. Feel free to correct or add. Please mind that I have invested quite some effort in making these - so respect my copyright. This is the complete centre differential with shifting forks and output shafts: Here the forks are removed: and now the output shafts too: The large cylindrical volume is the diff carrier which houses the differential gears. The two large gears are the high gear (smaller) and low gear (larger). They each freely rotate on the shaft and as long as the main gearbox is in gear they're driven continuously by the input shaft through the intermediate gears which are not shown. The set of small teeth with large distance between them - dog teeth - are each part of the large sprocket: In between the dog teeth one can see a more finely splined part with a large grooved ring around it - the high/low gear selector ring. The splined part is fixed to the differential housing, and by shifting the selector ring over the dog teeth of one of the gears, that gear will take the diff housing along in its rotation. In these pictures the ring is between the two large sprockets, so the LT230 is in neutral. If the R380/LT77 would be in gear with the engine running, only the two gears would rotate - the diff housing wouldn't. In the following pictures the assembly is positioned the other way round - left and right are switched (one of the reasons I want to remake some of the images). Half of the diff housing is removed, one can see the actual differential. On the left is now a smaller ring over the splined end of the diff carrier. That's the diff lock selector. Again, you see a set of dog teeth, this time they are part of the output shaft (you can see the shafts below). The shafts can rotate freely, so the small differential gears can do their work in compensating any differences in rotation of both axles. So diff lock is off. Here the diff lock selector has moved over the dog teeth. The shaft is now connected to the diff housing. None of the parts can move or rotate in relation to one another - everything is connected as if it is one piece, so diff lock is on: These are just the output shafts and diff gears. You can see the dog teeth on the left. The spiral at the right drives the speedo cable. And here they are relative to the whole assembly (although the gears should be meshing, the main reason why I want to remake the series). Hope you enjoy it and that it can help some people. Greetings, Joris
  3. 8 points
    Could not resist buying this for the tree quite sad really regards Stephen
  4. 7 points
    It is alive 😀 I have just done a nice and varied 30 mile trip up hill and down dale (in beautiful weather - blue skies above the mists). I chose some reasonable hills and there have been plenty of gear changes so hopefully a good bit of variable engine speed. On initial cranking with the solenoid disconnected, the oil pressure didn't rise enough to switch the warning lamp off. After four decent cranks and the lamp still on, I re-connected and cranked one more time to fill the injector pipes. I had thought that I'd see diesel spirting from the tops of the injectors but the pipes were sitting quite close and there was none, although there was diesel in the tops. So I nipped up the unions and at the next crank it fired in the first revolution. There was a bit of white smoke as I pulled away and then it was gone. This afternoon I'll put some more miles on. It feels like a hooray moment.
  5. 7 points
    Yes i have considered it, and it is the right way to go but the cost of owning a Defender in Malta in prohibitive of my budget. The Series are easier to acquire here and easier to maintain in term road licence and insurance. I like hacking and making thing personal but i do not in any way want to make a defender from a series. But make a Series just more livable on modern roads . Hey Mike here the pics that broke from my original post Here is my Mini transformation she is my pride and joy but it was bitch to bring back : Now back to Land Rovers
  6. 7 points
    I found this on tinternet and though folks here might appreciate the photos! https://www.reddit.com/r/overlanding/comments/edl70w/the_time_my_dad_drove_across_tanzania_towing_a/
  7. 7 points
    A little more progress this weekend sees the front suspension back together and the front callipers assembled with pads and new pins. I have also put a couple of coats of paint on the fuel tank and steering box I then thought I would remove the loom from the old chassis. Cue some swearing and I was puzzled why it was stuck. I cut the top off a section of chassis and found the cause When I fitted the rear crossmember a few years ago I threaded the loom through a tennis ball to prevent it getting damaged from the welding. It worked perfectly by the looks of it. Just totally forgot I did that.
  8. 6 points
    Success! We got it lined up perfectly first time, on bulkhead bolt straight in and then the other needed a ratchet strap to pull the foot in by 2mm. All the rear cross member bolts then lined up exactly. Really pleased 😁
  9. 6 points
    Finally started getting the roof on. One side done, hopefully do the other side tomorrow.
  10. 6 points
    There’s no way my bricklaying skills will stretch to that, or the budget for that matter! I’d like to do one in block/brick one day, but this will do for now. Got pretty much all the brickwork done now, just the gap for the side door to finish once I have confirmed the size. Pleased to say the earlier bits survived the frosts. It’s not the finest brickwork in the world but strong and pretty much level - nothing that can’t be taken up in the timber anyway. The opening for the main vehicle door is 2950mm - which will give me 2900mm once the frame trims are on. Plenty wide enough, even taking into account c. 100mm for the door that won’t be able to open beyond 90 degrees. Will get some more timber next week and see about starting framing up some walls while I wait to source a door. It will be 2500mm to the top of the wall plate, so plenty of height inside
  11. 6 points
  12. 6 points
    Finally ... all done! I splashed out in the end, because it's the vehicle I use for 'going where nobody has been for a long time' trips, which if something broke would generally involve a very long walk. It (my trusty 300Tdi) has also still only got 35,000 miles from new, so I decided it was worth investing. Final shopping list ended up being two ATBs, a full set of Ashcroft CVs, shafts and drive members, and after a bit of thought and "what the hell" I ordered a fully built up and pegged P38 rear diff (with an ATB in) from that Mr Barker that pops up on here occasionally. The front was the original 2 pin diff fitted to the vehicle when new, which had broken its 2 pin centre years ago, that was dragged out from under the bench, polished up and I fitted the new ATB centre. Because it's easier in a proper workshop, I wanted them fitted, and I don't have a lot of tinker time, the whole lot was then fitted at a garage a few weeks back. First impressions - the diffs haven't really been tested in anger yet but I like them. Steering effect is 'noticeable' but just different - and may loosen up with a bit of use. I've just come back from a 300 mile or so trip, most of which was gravel roads and off road, and you just adapt to driving it like you adapt to driving a vehicle with raised suspension where the steering doesn't quite feel the same, and very quickly you don't even think about it except when you get in from another vehicle. Off road, I haven't tried them in very tough conditions yet but faffing around on steep, loose or undulating slopes, the difference with the ATB is considerable. With diff lock in, it just goes up. Diff lock out, on the sort of grassy incline that would spin a front wheel out almost immediately on a standard vehicle, it still goes up. If you provoke it, the fronts will break traction but they'll work at it, and it almost feels like traction control trying to stop the wheels spinning. Any sort of slope where there is loose rock or undulations that would set off a front wheel spinning (usually followed by the opposite rear) - no problems. Sometimes you hear a slight gear noise (which I assume is the diff centre working) but it carries on with almost no wheelspin at all. I haven't figured out how much differential wheel speed is needed to activate the diff centre but it would appear very little - you never get aggressive wheelspin of the sort that you need to activate ETC for example. Cresting a cross-axle, the sort of thing where opposite corners would unload and spin out, it just doesn't. It's all rather like just having Velcro on the tyres. So far - I like them a lot, and especially because they're always there and working. It definitely looks like the right choice for 'real world off road use' - I suspect it wouldn't be for trials/competition where half the day is spent with wheels off the ground and a full locker would be superior. Now, an ATB with a full locker also built in ... would go in my Ibex one day After the late decision on the rear diff, I also now have a spare ATB, and just need to decide what to put it in
  13. 6 points
    I still don't understand the bitching about it being based on a Disco platform, given the "original" was effectively a Series body on a RR/Disco chassis... I mean how very dare they do exactly the same thing again, it's against tradition! Um... Anyway, I kinda like it.
  14. 6 points
    Right now, somewhere in Solihull, somebody in a big flouncy shirt is going into meltdown and shouting "WHY DIDN'T WE THINK OF THAT!!!"
  15. 6 points
    A 130 hi cap tub and defender cab fit perfectly on a 100” discovery chassis, just needs a frame to pick up on the body mounts to avoid any cutting of the chassis at all. I think I would have attempted to build it on a discovery 2 chassis if I didn’t already have the discovery 1.
  16. 6 points
    I'd bet on the Lego model being pretty accurate! They have produced models based on three of the Movies I've worked on (Star Wars VIII, Fantastic Beasts 2 & Spiderman). In each case, the model has been based on actual drawings. In the case of Fantastic Beasts, from Special Effects Drawings I suspect. You see the circle on the top of the roof? There's one on the underside of the chassis too. They didn't appear in the film - because they were the mountings to attach it to a slew-ring on a motion Platform. (I designed the motion platform). That says to me that Lego have good access to drawings - and that the Lego model is likely to be pretty close! That being the case - I quite like it! Si P.S. Almost every rig I've designed has had a Land Rover part in it - guess it's what I know best!
  17. 6 points
    After a long journey by car & boat, supported through people I have yet to meet, the roof hatch has arrived !!! Collected yesterday, and...... what a relief - it actually fits inside the roll cage !! 😂 Now it is time to think about the lifting mechaniscm.. Again, thanks you all !!!!
  18. 6 points
    You’re doing a fabulous job💖 Only thing I can’t understand is, with you cracking on at such a pace with this, why wasn’t your 90 finished 18 months ago 😮 😊👍🏻
  19. 6 points
    John, that's the most sensible post I've read on this topic so far! As some will remember, I've built both Air and Independent suspension on different vehicles. Rather too many people told me I clearly didn't understand the physics (😉) if I thought independent would be any good. I wanted to try it BECAUSE so many people dismissed it, all quoting the same 'diff being low when the suspension is compressed' reason. You would be forgiven for thinking that because every thread on every forum is full of people repeating it. I found a few threads where people had actually tried it (on Pirate) and said it worked pretty well. They were universally flamed for 'not understanding the physics'. I thought I'd see for myself, rather than just repeat the same old mantra. It wasn't perfect - but it changed my perception. The occasions where the low centre were an issue were surprisingly rare. Where it shone was on bumpy hill climbs where your wheels bouncing lose you more traction than lockers could gain. The IS just managed to keep all the wheels on the ground more of the time. Even without lockers (it didn't have any) it would out-perform beams. You could approach hill climbs faster as it would soak up the inevitable pot hole at the bottom of the climb without bouncing on to it's roof. Some obstacles required a different approach, often using the better dynamic stability to your advantage. Both types have advantages & disadvantages - but I believe IS gives you more overall, even if it does underperform beam axles in a few specific situations. I hope the bodyshell is just a mule - as that's the bit that looks disappointing to me. I'd hoped for something like the new Jimny, something that looks really cool & distinctive. What we've seen so far, just looks like another RR clone. If the body is decent, I do plan to buy one. More-so now I've seen it has IS and Air!
  20. 6 points
    All this grumbling and no-one's appreciating the fact that LR are clearly testing the thing off-road. If they didn't care, as many here are claiming, they wouldn't be spending millions of pounds in R&D dragging it over rocks in Moab etc. (How many other manufacturers bother? Do we believe a BMW X5 prototype has ever been rock-crawling?) For all the grumbling, LR take off-road ability more seriously than most others - the fact they even do it with the likes of the Evoque deserves a bit of credit, especially if you hold it up against its competition. Jamie's comments about the exhaust hanging down miss the point too - that's the same idea as the freelander and it works well - banging the exhaust makes a terrible noise but is ultimately harmless and lets you know you've run out of clearance. Likewise the front ARB was the lowest point at the front and is a robust but ultimately non-critical part that you could hang the car on (much like a Defender gearbox crossmember) without causing damage, and the CLONK lets you know you need to back up. Compared to the low-hanging fruit of major drivetrain components you see protruding under other SUV's it's very elegant design. I'd rather replace a £50 back-box than poke a rock through the rear diff. I don't see a problem basing it on the D5 - they based the Defender on the Range Rover platform after all - same thing, different century! Air suspension may be novel on a utility 4x4 but then coil springs and disc brakes were novel on a 4x4 in 1983 - and are still novel on plenty of modern 4x4's, and no-one's bitching about the Defender being too fancy compared to proper leaf springs and drum brakes
  21. 5 points
    It's a professional stunt production for the upcoming James Bond film. I can tell you're a fan 😂
  22. 5 points
    This is my valentines card off my good lady So to modify a couple of Landrover statements . The best wife x far and One wife love it regards Stephen
  23. 5 points
    Probably my favourite from last year's trip to Iceland: The day is approaching its end, and the hills in the far distance catch the red of the setting sun. It was so incredibly silent, I literally had to search for a sound - only thing I could hear was my own body and the ticking of the Td5 cooling down... sigh... Joris
  24. 5 points
    Calais...... LR # 2
  25. 5 points
    Meanwhile, blowing a hooley here today but it’s dry, so got the rafters finished this morning You can now see the roof structure from inside and the missing ties that will permit access to the loft. Hence the semi-structural ridge beam.
  26. 5 points
  27. 5 points
    As we don't have any children in the same timezone to ask the question of at this time of day, I just thought I would ask the lads here who know about stuff what has happened to YT in the last couple of weeks, can't seem to avoid the ads at all, ... I do follow some machining and LR type stuff, not to mention George or Binky, but it seems the ad scene has changed, is there any way round it or do we have to live with ads for hearing aids and other rubbish before we can cut to the chase??
  28. 5 points
    1 with the airline, 8 with mole grips and 3 with the welder but they are all out and ready for new seals and pistons
  29. 5 points
    Retroanaconda, yesterday.
  30. 5 points
    If we aren't dunking our beards in brown ale every now and then and having a moan about anything modern, then we can't be land rover enthusiasts.
  31. 5 points
    I got to see the new Defender up close today and take a seat behind the wheel, all stationary of course. It pretty much confirmed my expectations. It's overall quite a nice car, I like the design cues from the original like the rear door. The rear LED lights are not to my liking and look even stranger in real life. The front does look OK, modern but with more or less traditional layout. The dash is better than in the Tdci, but I hate the touchscreen (I always hate the things) and can't believe that will be of much use offroad or with dirty hands. Then again, everybody seems to want the bloody things, so it's only logical they've put one in instead of nice sturdy buttons and a DIN radio. I was surprised there's no separate button for the terrain response, you have to use the temperature dial after chosing the right setting on, you've guessed it, the touchscreen... The electronic diffs can't be selected manually, you just have to hope the terrain response makes the appropriate choice. The brochure mentions the settings can be customised, maybe that will prove usefull. I wasn't convinced by the driving position, a bit lower and more laid back than expected. Which strangely made the interior feel less spacious than in the TD5 we drove there. You do get ample room for your arm and shoulder and even a place to rest your elbow without opening the window. Gearstick seems well placed despite looking like a it was taken from a van, but as it's an automatic it's rather pointless. Exterior looked clean and well finished, the checker plate actually is a plate, not a sticker. Front bumper is too low, but one of the packs includes a cut-off version. The towing eyes are a nice feature, a lot easier to reach than the old ones hidden under the bumper or rear crossmember. I'm baffled those can pass pedestrian safety regulations! I have no doubt it will be a very capable vehicle. It was presented on GoodYear Wrangler muds on 20", I'd prefer smaller rims but they did look the part and will get the job done. A lot of nice and well designed details in the interior, like grab handles and luggage hooks. I'm sure there will be a lot of potential buyers. I certainly wont be one of them, too modern and too detached. Again, I'm well aware I'm far from the audience LR has aimed the Defender at. Still feel a bit sad it's not the icon it could have been, and at the same time happy to have owned a Defender TD5 while it was still a driver's car instead of a lifestyle statement. On the new one you can get an 'urban pack', to help you tackle the school run. I guess that says it all, no doubt it will be a very popular option... Filip PS: I must stress I don't want to come over as to negative. I really do think Land Rover did a good job, it's just not for me. And time will tell if they can convice a lot of new customers, or just compromise Disco/Range sales.
  32. 5 points
    Oh so much this! The original Series was designed as a cheap cross between a car and a tractor but I don't see anyone bemoaning the lack of power take-off equipment in the last 30 years As Tanuki says, farmers are using cheap simple quads to bimble around farms or they're using pickups or just tipper vans for a lot of stuff - because the world has changed and they're the best tools for the job now. Grumble all you like but I don't think anyone's going to plough a field with a Defender these days even if they supplied them with a 3-point linkage from the factory Builders are driving 30-40k VW Transporters with leather & aircon & tinted windows but if LR dare to make a vehicle with a decent interior it's far too fancy - when Ford Transits are available with leccy windows I think we can probably agree it's not outrageous extravagance for a Defender to have them too. Every other "competitor" vehicle cited here has as much or more equipment fitted - be it foreign 4x4's or pickups, vans, even tractors & unimogs have air con & comfy seats & enough electronics to get you to the moon. Look at American pickups, supposedly rutfy-tufty all-action and yet they've got powered tailgates for your feeble arms, electric side-steps, heated cup-holders, acres of fake chrome and plastic panels, and half the time they've got indy front ends and leaf sprung arses
  33. 5 points
    I totally understood that. And agree. But I reserve the right to ignore the outcome and call for a re-vote, because it's obvious that the people who voted against me didn't understand what they were voting for.
  34. 5 points
    Suggest you her something to make her happy - a OneTen will never be to drive like a car, whatever you throw at it. If she doesn't like it, she will not like it. Simple. Having said this, we had a 17 year young very French, very girly, young Lady with us last week and she loved driving the old Land Rovers and is showing signs of the well known addiction... Esp. the Ninety was much to her liking... Now her mom worries. A lot. Oh well.
  35. 5 points
    And don't forget, it is actually illegal to have the white lettering on show, the penalty for which is a lifetime of humiliation and distain from your peers. 😉 Go black, you know it makes sense!
  36. 5 points
    This is insane overkill and I love it. Now get back to working on the bl**dy truck!
  37. 5 points
  38. 5 points
    Have to rename him onebigshed!
  39. 5 points
    Steady on Ross, it's looking like you might finish a distraction project
  40. 5 points
    Only a couple of photos - but first laning trip for a family picnic today. This section of the lane has just been repaired 😊 £8k worth of stone has transformed it from a giant clay pit, that I had trouble winching the 90 out of, into (what feels like) a small car park half way along the lane. Not just us enjoying the repairs: nice river to ford at the bottom: and a spot to park on the other side for lunch
  41. 5 points
  42. 5 points
    I am about as enthralled by this as I am the Brexit debacle over in Westminster - both have gone on far too long and I just wish they would get on with it!
  43. 5 points
    About time I picked this up again. Life got in the way, as it does. To recap: Can't run a mechanical capstan on my 109 as the crank pulley of the V8 is way out of line with t'hole in t'front. The options are electric or hydraulic - I've chosen the latter. Why do I want a capstan? Because I can. Always loved the look on a series. Slight change of direction as I managed to pick up a cheap capstan drum from some sort of boat. It's the right size and will look the part with a cap made to suit: The Bonfiglioli 30:1 gearbox. Tis beefy: The gearbox will be mounted under the mounting plate which will carry an intermediate bearing, then the drum sits on top. The hydraulic motor. Another Ebay buy; an expensive (when new) old stock gerotor bargain. Better inside that it looks on the outside! Low speed, many torques. Perfect: I did some number crunching based on commonly accepted figures for aircon power consumption and came to the conclusion that an aircon electro-magnetic clutch should be man enough in my application. Seems insane, but it's surprising the amount of power an aircon compressor soaks up. I've no idea why I didn't take any pictures while doing that bit, but the front end of a Denso Disco V8 pump is grafted onto a 20cc/rev gear pump: It seems happy there and fits in the hole in the vehicle: It wants to slit slightly back from the main serp pulley, and I couldn't figure out a way to get some decent belt wrap even if I could get it further forwards. The solution is a separate short pulley, so I had to graft two together using a rotary table, a plasma cutter and some creative thinking: Sorry I didn't video it, I didn't have enough free hands. @dangerous doug has been kind enough to help me with a replacement pulley for my "spare" V8 to replace the one I cut up. Thanks Doug! I have yet to mount it all up properly, but it fits really nicely with a short 7PK850 belt. I'm working on a stiffener bracket to steady the rear of the pump too. Pics to come of both. The next challenge is the motor coupling. Trying to buy pre-made involute couplings is damn near impossible or very expensive. This seems to be a DIN5480 something with 14 teeth. I spent aaaaaages trying to find something I could buy cheaply and adapt. Eventually I resigned myself to having to cut my own. I don't have a shaper, mill, or a dividing head. Just an old Myford ML10 lathe. The tale is told on YoutTube! Sorry about the dreadful camera work. Having successfully cut the splines on my ghetto shaper/dividing setup, I machined some bits to bring it all together: And further pushed my little lathe to cut various keyways: Which, it has to be said, came out really well. I think I watch too many Keith Fenner videos.... I decided to test the whole setup. The lathe seemed to perfect power source: Much still to do machining up the gearbox to motor mount, cutting and creating the mount plate and suchlike. More as it progresses. I'm intending to have the drum removable so I don't have to drive around with a chuffing great bit of cast iron on the front of the vehicle all the time. All told, I'm having huge fun with this project, which is really the point, right?
  44. 5 points
    Well it’s taken me a while but finally started putting it back together. No. 4 had a cracking bend in it so I’ve taken the chance to change them all as well as pretty much everything I can well I have access to it. Taking ages, but learning allot and enjoying the process. Thanks for all the help.
  45. 4 points
    I recently bought a secondhand Hannibal roof rack. Where the gutter clamps pass back up through the side arms, to be pulled up on their threaded rods, there are M6 grub screws which act against the square section of those rods, just below the threaded part. The previous owner had never used the grub screws because they were tight, stainless into the aluminium. I released five of the six easily with just a little heat on the aluminium but one couldn't be operated as there was a rusty, snapped-off hex in there, flush with the surface of the grub screw. I realised that I couldn't do anything as it's a hard hex metal stuck in a less-hard stainless grub-screw, in a soft aluminium base. So I looked for a spark erosion place. Amazingly, I found one in a hamlet just a few miles away. I've driven past dozens of times over the years and had no idea that it was there. It turns out that in a small building, in pristine cleanliness, there's a one man business that has a whole host of high precision CNC tooling including wire erosion to very close tolerances and he is a very busy man. The guy said he'd have a go and I waited a few weeks for him to have time. The bulkiness of the part meant that the machine's coolant bath had to be opened and he could only use the nozzles to direct coolant onto the piece and this limited the power. However with a lot of effort to clamp an awkward piece, he set it up and sparked through and preserved the thread too. I thought I'd post the two pictures that I have.
  46. 4 points
  47. 4 points
  48. 4 points
  49. 4 points
    Think this thread has come to an end now and would just like to thank everyone that has helped me with stuff and or shown interest I really do appreciate it THANKS You never know I may get to do another one in the future but that will be another thread
  50. 4 points
    Abso-fcking-lutely, this thread was already getting on for 45 pages of baseless speculation before we somehow even got into the Daily Mail columnist debate on Civil Servants and the performance of a Main Battle Tank. Now we're judging the new Defender by the way people in the marketing look?! 😂😂 The way that 'off road enthusiasts' in general and Land Rover enthusiasts in specific look and behave is one reason if I'm discussing my build with anyone in real conversation, I avoid drawing myself as being such. I'm just someone that likes Land Rovers, but not part of the Land Rover 'community'. Short of having a bowie knife strapped to their leg (in case of sudden jungle), a sheep under one arm, a hay bail under the other and a 'One Life, Live It' T-shirt, what exactly would people here have been happy with? Most people work in offices. Livestock in that environment is frowned upon. I wouldn't say I look like a Land Rover person and definitely not like someone that spends every free minute in the garage, but then I'm quite proud of that. You don't have to wear your hobbies on your sleeve. Let's be honest, most on here own a Land Rover because we wanted one, not needed one. They are a hobby. What's the alternative? A permanently-affixed pair of cammo trousers and a leather Brokeback Mountain hat? Pretty sure I saw a pair of the former in the video... Fact is, we can analyse every second of every promo video and get increasingly angry about it, or accept marketing is marketing and they might actually be trying to show the new Defender is for everyone? Sounds like some sort of a sales strategy to me.... Until someone you trust buys one and shows you what it can do, nothing is going to matter. I remember when the TD5 was seen as the most complicated, worst thing to ever happen to the Defender, and now they're holding their value well as an alternative to the TDCIs. The Land Rover 'community' is nothing if not fluid in its beliefs.

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