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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    A friend picked up his new Defender yesterday. So we couldn't resist having a bit of a line up and photo shoot. We have vehicles spanning 1953 thru to 2020. I think the photos clearly show the new Defender had a lot more in common with the D4, than it does a traditional Defender or Series. However I think I can say, I do like the new vehicle, despite it being badged as Defender. Not because of it.
  2. 8 points
    Just makes you want to punch Gerry, doesn't it ? Mo
  3. 6 points
    Out on shift the night before last, crewed with Kath, a middle aged Scots lady who grew up with Land Rovers. Mo: Look, theres a new Defender ! Kath: where ? Mo: there ! Kath: What ? That one ? Mo: yup. Kath: why doesn't it look like a Land Rover ? Mo: I don't know, it wasn't me ! Kath: It looks rubbish, it's not a proper Land Rover ! You couldn't pee in the back of that one and let run out the holes. Mo: Er, no, probably wouldn't be a good idea. Different people, different priorities 🥴 Thought I'd share. Mo
  4. 6 points
    What a load of old cobblers about batteries too - the Defender battery under the seat (in a sharp-edged metal box no less) is no better than this, and a lot of modern vans have the same setup. There's usually a dedicated jump-start tag in the engine bay, and it's complete balls that you can't jump-start modern cars "wiv electrics" - it's a 12v boost not a friggin' defibrilator
  5. 6 points
    ............it's charging still Steve
  6. 5 points
    I don't drive a business model. Its disappointing, when a British company won't build in Britain. Whilst one may laud business models and so on the upshot of it all is less employment in Britain, less apprenticeships for the school leavers and less money in our economy. Perhaps I'm out of touch or too old now but I don't hold with this globalisation lark. It's fine when all is well but our nation fell on its arse hard during the pandemic when we were having to bid against the rest of the world to get our hands on chinese, lowest bidder made, PPE. 🤔🥴 Mo
  7. 5 points
    How about the JLR network? After all, they're not competing either.
  8. 5 points
    Why on earth is it off-topic? Pretty much all new Land Rover's have electric seats these days so very much on point, both @paime and I have stated in different scenarios that we find them useful. If someone built a seat as comfortable as the Range Rover ones that was mechanically adjustable I might be tempted to fit them but I'd hazard a guess it would be even bulkier because of all the linkages required to get the adjustment. Just a general point / rant now (i.e. not aimed at you): I really wish that people would get the fact that electronics are unreliable out of their head. Perhaps most consumer electronics are because everyone demands cheaper and cheaper goods doing more and more stuff which means compromising somewhere. But if you are willing not to compromise on cost then they are orders or magnitude more reliable than mechanical systems because there are no components that wear out. For example one system I used to work on / design has been installed into a dusty environment that's daily temperature cycle goes from sub-zero to well above 50°C. That system has been operational for 10 years running flat-out and never been touched, find me a complex mechanical system that has done that. That particular system certainly has more processing power and complexity in it than a high end vehicle. On @paime's point about not having electrical seats in a work or expedition vehicle I don't see why not. The only two vehicles I own (if you exclude the JCB) are the 110 and the 6x6 and I'd say that over 90% of what I use them for would constitute as "work" or "expedition" stuff. They've been soaked, covered in carp (literal), sand, mud, blood, snow, swamped in water and they've been faultless. In fact I've had more issues with the mechanical seats in the Sandringham because the mechanisms seized up. I think it's each to their own - my background is electronics and programming so nothing around that particularly fazes me. I'm proficient enough in everything mechanical related to Land Rovers but that's all self-taught. Maybe I'm mad (no I definitely am) but if I had the spare cash to splash around and I'd run one for at least a year then I would
  9. 5 points
    One of those productive days with something to actually show for it. I've got a bench version of the air system, an air tank and a battery to keep it all alive. The compressor will feed the system (slowly) and has an automatic unloader valve, but I think more wires would be required to make it cut off at max pressure. With care, that's not an issue here, and I've got a T piece to top it up with the garage compressor. I've got Inflate, Deflate and four wheel solenoids. The RR valve block and driver makes it very easy, just 12v to the right places and the car goes up and down. A good chance to play with the springs on the car - curtailed when something was binding, then released and popped the spring, which lobbed the (unbolted) lower spring mount somewhere near the opposite corner of the car. Still lots of little fabrication jobs to do (plus coding and height sensors, wiring, piping etc etc), but there's much less to show for those hours in the garage!
  10. 4 points
    The Head is off!! Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Applied heat and hammered the bolt head with air chisel with blunt bit then hammered on 12 point socket followed by bolt extractor. Both just rounded off it off more. It really didn't want to move. Elbbeko's idea of removing engine mounts to get more clearance got me in there. Still not enough room to get a drill in, but enough to get a small pistol grip windy drill in. Max drill windy would take is 6mm so drilled down centre of head with that, then started opening it out with a die grinder bit. Only took about 2 hours! When I had ground enough away heard/felt the head crack off the bolt, weird thing is although the head was now free to lift of the bolt, the bolt head was still stuck to the cylinder head. I had to knock it off with a chisel. The bolt unscrewed with fingers once the head was off. No damage to cylinder head apart from a small nick from the die grinder on the edge of bolt hole. The bolt looks new, no corrosion and no locking agent that I can see. Complete mystery to as to what has happened here. All the other bolts were extremely tight, used a 3 foot breaker bar (didn't use the 5 foot again because I didn't want to round any more off). I have bruises on my chest from bracing against the slam panel whilst pulling with both hands. Only just managed to move them, and I'm not a little lad. I will post what I found in the RR forum with more requests for advice later. Thanks again Mike
  11. 4 points
    Nonsense. The legislation is part funded in the open by the German government/taxpayer which is part funded by the German automotive unions. Not corrupt at all, fully disclosed and democratically driven protectionism.
  12. 4 points
    Not the UK, the EU. That is the sort of backward thinking applied to everything that led to so much frustration and the 2016 result. The reality is that the EU makes most of these rules as a protectionist measure to exclude external competition, or even to favour certain internal manufacturers over other member states’ businesses. It’s entirely corrupt.
  13. 3 points
    I'd probably share it too, but I don't think something like that would actually stop me buying one. It would just be something to grumble about over a pint down the pub.
  14. 3 points
    Pretty much MOT ready! Big day is next saturday
  15. 3 points
    Just Enough Essential Parts was the version I was always told. Regarding the IPO thing I think Land Rover pretty much shot themselves in the foot on that when they released the new vehicle with a Defender badge on it. The fact that the company is willing to completely throw away the "iconic shape" and replace it with another Freelander/Discovery shows that the only value of that shape for them is in dodgy marketing, pretending that the new vehicle has any connection with it's past.
  16. 3 points
    https://www.ford.com/suvs/bronco/2021/ New Bronco, with optional GOAT, and Sasquatch package that includes 35” muds, bead lock rims and front and rear lockers. Colours like Antimatter blue, Area 51 grey and starting at £24K in the US...
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    If yours is a close relation to Ralph's truck you've got a friend for life now Looks tidy, that C-pillar is pretty typical and a bit of a pain but nothing insurmountable - I re-did mine using box section for the sills and a bit of light fabrication. Just make sure the aluminium outer is insulated from the steel when you re-assemble it. As for the rest of the truck - give it the steam-cleaning of its life (including inside the chassis rails) and then drown it in dinitrol. Especially inside the chassis, bulkhead & doors.
  19. 3 points
    Update on progress. Well I finally got all the seals fitted and working as I wanted them to. Basically on each side there's an 8' length of ply on a piano hinge that clips out of the way in the UP postion when roof is lowered, and then when roof is lifted and I want to employ them I pull a couple of sprung pins out and the two sides flip down onto neoprene seals and then a tension clip holds them in place. Rear end is a slightly larger lump of wood with an alloy skin on it that is stored up top and lifted into place (not hinged) and clipped in when required. Its got alloy on its lower face because its more exposed to weather and it also helps to make it more rigid. Now the restrictions have eased and its legal to go further afield I took it for its first test drive/overnight recently for a few days just up the road to the North Coast, although still required no-contact interactions (hardly saw anyone anyway). It was variously very cold, very windy, rather wet, then it was warm. It kept me warm and dry, no rattles or leaks, the additional weight was hardly noticeable - the 110 bowled along nicely. The ease of operation and being able to stand up in the back cooking my supper within 10 minutes of stopping is priceless! It needs a good shake-down running around for a spell to see what rattles, loosens etc but so far its looking like the various sealing methods and joint-solutions I came up with have worked, keeping driving rain out. Got some electricals to do now, and some new doors to fit when I get them painted.
  20. 3 points
    I only had the engine and gearbox to remove. Everything else I wanted is on the other P38 fortunately. I was clearing all the fluids so I could get it scrapped. Petrol was the last thing and I am now certain that ther isn't any petrol in it,
  21. 3 points
    Try 'The Propshaft Clinic' and Bailey Morris as well. I think the latter supply Gwynn
  22. 3 points
    Waiting for some electronic bits to turn up now, so I whizzed up a couple of lower spring plates on the mill. These are temporary (probably) but will support the lower spring seat and could be faced at an angle to help offset the effect as the axle rotates on full droop, which is tending to 'peel' the lower spring seat out of the bag. The mill is new to me but pretty pleased with how this turned out, the bolt pockets neatly the right width to make the bolt head captive too. (The speed holes around the edge are definitely to reduce unsprung weight and to look cool, nothing at all to do with using old lumps of alu from the offcuts bin at all, oh no). I've decided to built the control as a daughter board onto an Arduino Pro Mega - essentially an Arduino chip, but the Mega has 16Mhz processor, 54 digital IOs and 16 analogue channels - that should be plenty even if I decide to put accelerometers on each wheel! The Pro Mega puts this onto a PCB which is 55 x 38mm and has pins at 0.1" spacing for use with breadboards - and all for £7, which is the really impressive part!
  23. 3 points
    I agree with the opening post. These modern coil sprung things aren't proper Landrover vehicles. Just a poor mans range rover, if you ask me, wearing Landrover clothes. Leaf springs all the way, millennia of product development.
  24. 3 points
    Surely real Land Rovers don't need any identity labels? They stand out from all other vehicles anyway 😊 Welcome to the forum btw Steve
  25. 3 points
  26. 3 points
    So i've been lucky enough to find a TGB13 (6x6) chassis in excellent condition, these are as rare as anything these days. Along with another OM606 which has had a nice new Diesekmaken pump and an ML gearbox with a custom Tx box adaptor. All of my work on the cab and other bits will transfer across. Now for some scraping, sandblasting and chassis paint...
  27. 3 points
    Please God no, not a discussion about waving on this forum ...before we know it someone will refer to the new thing as a Landy 😜 Nurse, the vomit bucket please, I'm feeling a little... 🤮
  28. 3 points
    Lead acid batteries don't take more than 25A without being in pain, a twin alternator setup is a waste of time and money.
  29. 3 points
  30. 3 points
    I think that was engineering having their last hurrah - rather than McGovern’s Design ...
  31. 3 points
    Argue on. I am very interested in this can of worms that I have opened up.
  32. 3 points
    Bowie - quit with those negative waves man !
  33. 3 points
    Just to pose a question ..... Should we separate out the legal conversion from CSK’s questions? In essence - give him his thread back 😂
  34. 3 points
    I dunno Bish, I think the rule is that if you drive by a certain number of police cars and don't get pulled over, you're rock solid legally. Seems to be the legal benchmark set on every car forum ever.
  35. 3 points
    Update on this problem. Figured it had to be on the low pressure side as any splits between lift pump and injectors would have diesel spewing everywhere. Just to discount a crack in the fuel filter housing, while running at idle I briefly undid the banjo input to fuel filter, this was definitely bringing in a lot of air as it was bubbling and spluttering.. So traced the fuel pipes back to the tank but again nothing obvious. With engine at idle, checked again, bingo! Fuel pipe at tank gently bubbling and on closer inspection the casing is split on the bend, just enough to let air in but very, very little diesel out. Presumably on acceleration it just sucks in huge amount of air in and starves the injectors. Replacement length of 8mm fuel pipe connected and alls well. Didn't have to bleed system, just started up and ran fine. Thanks for all the suggestions. Now for the electrics, but that's a whole new thread!
  36. 3 points
  37. 3 points
    Grrr! Installation! “Install” is a verb that uneducated US tv presenters have mangled into an incorrect noun. 🤮 It’s looking great. Fitting it will be a big mile stone.
  38. 3 points
    I suppose that it would be bad to think about supercharging this, wouldn't it?
  39. 3 points
    Lost of marking, stamping and scribing followed. I used the lathe to index the three rings. I've decided on a M5 bolt, purely as that's the only tap I've got in the workshop. I've drilled the three rings, through in the places and I'm through in over place on the pulley. I'm going to tap the pulley before I drill any more, but I've a busy day tomorrow, so decided to stop for the evening. Mainly as I'm a bit tired and I knows I'll mess it up if I hurry.
  40. 3 points
    Well replacement ECU arrived today, fitted it and it was exactly the same - ABS fault still present on dash and Nanocom reading fault as "Front Right Wheel Sensor Open Circuit". So I investigated PROPERLY this this time rather than blindly believing the diagnostic kit. The sensor still read approx 995R same as the other sensors but it turned out to have a partial short circuit to chassis on one wire. The resistance to chassis is constantly wandering between 200R ish to 1K ish. Removed sensor from axle and it disappears so it the sensor not the wiring. With the sensor connected but danging in the air to isolate it from chassis the fault can be cleared. New sensor ordered. So when Nanocom says Open Circuit Sensor it really means Open circuit or short/leak to chassis or who knows what else. Moral of the story. Don't blindly believe the fault message but take the time to investigate properly using the fault information as a pointer. Mike.
  41. 3 points
    I love your enthusiasm and how engaged you are - but you’re sentences are not always easy to understand and you’re coming across as quite rude at the moment - which is why that is being reflected back to you. Not sure if that’s your plan ?
  42. 3 points
    People that wanted a new Discovery but thought the D5 was ugly.
  43. 3 points
    Today was a quick engine start test to check my wiring up of the ECU and immobiliser.
  44. 2 points
    If you find the centre cushion on the steering wheel gets in the way while turning, a flat centre pad from a Range Rover with fit straight on, the cushion is just pressed into place. I found my forearm kept brushing over the cushion when turning & it annoyed me so I found a RR flat centre on ebay, sprayed it satin black to match & fitted it. best wishes for a good MOT result.
  45. 2 points
    I saw one! In its natural territory -100mph outside lane of the M5 this evening. Thoughts -I couldn't see the front for long so mostly from behind: Centre spare wheel looks really odd for some reason, perhaps it is because it is so wide? The 'shoulder' is too wide, it makes the top of the cabin look like it is really narrow -especially compared to the D3/4 Do you really need 9 brake lights? Front end looks really, really busy. Ground clearance in road going mode is terrible at the wishbones, they seem to point upwards toward the hub, though perhaps it was in super low mode as it was at high speed cruise? If I remember anything else, will post back.
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points
    ...just to add a few notes to the video as the forum software wouldn't let me; Chronologically stepping through: You can see the fridge is running (-4.3A) When I turn the ignition on the heater fan is running on low and the MS wakes up and primes the fuel pump (-11.5A) When the fuel pump is primed we drop back to -3.8A to spin the heater. You can see the starter current (-225A) Once started, the alternator comes up to 14.1v and the starter battery replenishes (30A) - you can see how quickly this drops off to almost nothing too. Once the main battery voltage has been stable for a few seconds the split charge kicks in and 41A flows into the "house" battery. Bear in mind this is an AGM starter-type battery so will accept a lot more amps than a caravan battery. With the split charge in and the starter battery still replenishing, the total current is 14A + 41A = 55A By only 30 seconds in, the main battery is down to 5A and the house battery is drawing 26A and both are still tailing slowly off. That video shows a fairly typical start after a day of sitting around with the fridge running. You can see how the alternator voltage dips a tad under the load, that's the regulator doing its thing as it can't sustain full amps at tickover - but if it was struggling the battery light would be on & the voltage would be down to 12v not 13.8. There's also clearly some losses in my wiring / inaccuracies in the reading but the broad picture is correct. I will say that I have seen that AGM battery draw 80A very briefly and 50A for a period of maybe 15 minutes after a particularly hard thrashing but your alternator will regulate things the same as mine, dropping the charge voltage a tad until the draw is sustainable. And, again, most leisure batteries won't take 50A+ out of your alternator. Another thing to note is how quickly the charging currents taper off - the main battery is down to 4A by the end of the video and the house battery is down to 24A already - it's not accurate to just do amps * hours for recharge times but driving for half an hour or more is certainly going to put a hell of a bulk charge back.
  48. 2 points
    Snagger I still have the wiring diagram for the module Tim made
  49. 2 points
    Don't buy Kenlowe they're cack, especially their stats.
  50. 2 points
    Bracketry playing was successful. Without much measuring I sort of estimated the location of the holes in the bracket. And drilled them. That left the sensor ever so slightly too far away. Any closer meant that the hex head bolt would not fit. So cap head bolt was required: And a bit of hand filling and the sensor was quite good!


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