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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/08/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Oooh, I can't resist this as its a new one on me. I have seen "superchargers" that run from your 12v cigarette lighter socket before, but this "supercharger" is spun by the flow of incoming air. This blockage in your induction system can also save you on fuel apparently..... Hang on, I get it now. It leaves the 12v lighter socket free to plug in your LED/capacitor fuel saver. Genius.
  2. 4 points
    Ok, I'l bite.. I finished the mockup of the adapter plate: I am trying to marry a VW 1.9 TDI engine to the Mahindra gearbox. It takes some doing before they say 'i do'. To make it as easy as possible, I started with a longitudinal mounted version of this engine, from a Passat, as this has the starter motor on the engine side, as well as more favourable engine mounts, a vacuum pump at the side of the engine, rather than at the back, and an engine mounted viscous Fan. At the heart of this is a Valeo solid flywheel conversion kit for a 130 HP TDI. The 130 HP engine has a larger diameter clutch, and this clamps the Jeep friction plate perfectly: I don'e have much in the way of machining equipment, but I do have CAD. I also found a factory drawing with mounting pattern dimensions for the VW TDI, as well as a Factory drawing for the mounting pattern of the Peugeot Indenor engine that normally lives in the Mahindra. This gave me the bolt pattern for the gearbox. On CAD, marying this up ended up looking like this: The good thing is that this will be acurate by design, and Via a waterjet cutter, I can get the adaptor plate cut from CAD. But first the plywood adapter To this can the Mahindra bell house now be fitted: So this is where I am now. next is dropping this lot in the chassis and see what obstacles we find next. It takes a while though.. Thanks for looking! Daan
  3. 3 points
    Naks, for all the faults of the old (real) Defenders, chassis stiffness was not one. Given how your past garage stuffed your rear diff and appeared to have bent an axle (if I understood other comments correctly you had a bent axle that you attributed to LR, but I doubt they sent it out like that), do you not think that any chassis sag or buckling your vehicle may have had in their care was not because of a design issue but because they dropped it off a lift, likely buckling that axle at the same time?
  4. 2 points
    No, silly: it generates power from the "free" energy created by the intake air. This is fed back in via the lighter socket making enough power to turn the alternator into a motor. Over 3000 rpm it'll feel like VTEC just kicked in, yo!! Get a two way lighter socket adaptor and enjoy it supercharging the lighter socket superchip too...
  5. 2 points
    That's the thing though - mostly the computer will just say something perfectly reasonable like "sensor out of range" (EG it's borken) and the tech will just swap the thing and move on without thinking, because 95% of the time that's all that's needed. It's no different than lazy mechanics ever used to do changing bits and bobs to try and fix a problem without the aid of a computer. People always think computers "know" things like the cause of a faulty sensor - they don't. They only know the sensor reading is unexpected, it's the USER that infers that the cause is a bad sensor rather than spotting that mice have eaten the wiring loom. Also, these days it often is entirely reasonable to change fairly large assemblies to fix a problem, when even back-street mechanics are £50+ per hour there's only so many hours it's worth them spending stripping & rebuilding a part compared to the relatively low cost of new parts nowadays. In the old days, parts were expensive and labour was cheap - that's no longer true in most places. In places like Africa, China, Russia, etc. you can get someone to spend all day rebuilding your starter motor or carburettor for peanuts, while a new part might cost a month's wages, so they tend to rebuild stuff. It's not a conspiracy, it's economics.
  6. 2 points
    ... and regrettably allowed to continue to breathe. Civilisation has destroyed natural selection. 😇 Mo
  7. 2 points
    You mean you guys aren't rocking custom-machined billet alloy indicator stalk clamps?
  8. 2 points
    Hi guys, I’m new here but not to Landy’s, not sure how active this forum is but thought I’d give it a go, June 2020 (yes, after Brexit, possibly) I will be driving to Romania and back for my holidays. Going via France, Italy, Croatia, Slovenia because I’ve done the direct route back in 2010. The reason for my post is that I am asking for knowledge of small campsites en-route and was hoping that people local to these areas may be able to help. Most stops will be for only one night. Many thanks in advance
  9. 2 points
    I would suggest making sure they are all pushed out using the hydraulics on the car before you remove them. Will be easy then. The only ones I struggled with were pushed too far in. Hindsight is a wonderful thing!!
  10. 2 points
    It does look like it unlocks with a key, so the faff probably wasn't worth it? It's a poor design: Clearly awkward to use; it would block even more of your rearward visibility, on a car that is already challenged in that respect; and I bet you'd hate the wind noise/drag while revelling in the alleged 129 m.p.h. your 400 h.p. engine and 22" rims would allegedly allow on certain European roads!
  11. 2 points
    Quick update. The timing has been done, new cam pulley and all. The noise has gone. Hopefully that will be that for another decade or so.
  12. 2 points
    Retroanaconda, yesterday.
  13. 1 point
    That’s not and electric turbo .... this is an electric turbo
  14. 1 point
    Cheers @Peaklander, cut my own teeth on 6502 assembler and even machine code for a while, now quite heavily into Web stuff, like you though, arduino has passed me by.
  15. 1 point
    Later TD5 and TDCI 90s are 1.2, I believe.
  16. 1 point
    I thought the rust on my discovery shell was bad! It's definitely the way to give a new lease of life to a good solid discovery chassis and running gear, great to see another 100" project getting started. Seats wise, I have the smart car seats in my 100" and I've managed to get the passenger one to tip forward for access to the battery. Just need to get the seat heaters wired in now!
  17. 1 point
    That would work. The question is now: I can get 10 stainless steel cable ties for the price of one "proper" tie. This isn't a concourse rebuild, so I'll just buy the 10 cable ties, I think. Thanks everyone!
  18. 1 point
    Compomotive used to make an exact replica of that wheel (which is a deep dish, not boost). Often Defenders of 300tdi / early td5 only came with four alloys and a steel spare under a cover so I expect at some point a Compomotive has been purchased to replace a steel spare.
  19. 1 point
    A wee update...... Stage one of the tool station, made from cast offs and scrap that has come off a worksite..... that base weighs in at around 80kgs lol The red box is just there for moving (I'm moving sites), the blue boxes are Total Tools brand tool boxes, HRD brand roll cabs $399 each
  20. 1 point
    IMO daisy chained crimp terminals are the only neat way of doing it. Unless its something like the carling switches where you can get a plug for them.
  21. 1 point
    many thanks. that must be the only page I didn't look at, but then I'm using a phone, no internet. Paul
  22. 1 point
    Easy 12 hours I would wait until daylight when the rain had stopped
  23. 1 point
    Could always balance it on that toolbox trolley until it gets some axles connected...
  24. 1 point
    Did the "thrash it apart" trick with one of mine, then all the plastic fell off anyway so it went in the bin. No I lie, it's actually just laying there "in case it comes in useful" We all know it never will but that's not the point.
  25. 1 point
    Shame they don’t start using it for the plastic based tarmac - it’s supposedly harder wearing than normal tarmac and is a good way to get rid of it.
  26. 1 point
    I tried this before I got the welder out! Was unsuccessful as couldn't find anything quite the right size..... Didn't think of a socket
  27. 1 point
    Well I made a little test jig to see if the light would go out when 120psi was applied to the sender it it did not! Even poking the internals which a spring could be felt actuating and bottoming out it did not extinguish the light.. good news. Looks like the sender is dead.
  28. 1 point
    Something's definitely changed. I put up a vid last night and while watching it back for quality control my jaw dropped at the three or four 'mid roll' ads Youtube deemed fit to throw in there. Before now it would never have been more than one mid roll ad in a ten to 15 minute video. edit- as a creator I have the option of turning on video monetisation, or not. Just feel that's important to say. But then if you're following a creator and you value their content then being cool with [the odd] ad is the simplest form of support. I've no definitive on this but they say letting full ad play instead of skipping is also beneficial to a creators possibility of bringing in some revenue.
  29. 1 point
    Aye Ralph roger that.... pushed grease through the nipple also, (after re=threading it) and the rust coming out was unreal. Now I know why I’ve had to do The flanges and seals on the tranny... 🙄
  30. 1 point
    Been there, done that, it'll all work out fine
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Thanks all. I will get the bits ordered to rebuild them including the gallery seals I cleaned all 4 up quickly last night and dropped back in the electrolysis tank to finish off before a final clean. Will then remove pistons and split them. Came up well for less than an hours work
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    My panel was pre-wired with about a metre of each polarity cable and with MC4 connectors (one plug and one socket to preserve polarity). You will need to extend these and cables to do this are freely available with a matching plug and socket on one end, which just push together and clip. Be careful as this then swaps the polarity. You can put what you want on the other, such as the Anderson you have suggested. I have wondered about opening the connector box on the back of my panel and hard wiring into there to cut-out the connector. This though would prevent the panel from being removed easily. There are some warnings about disconnecting solar panels when they are 'under load' but I don't know if that means that they should be shaded when you do so. It might determine whether an Anderson connector is suitable or whether the smaller MC4 are enough. There's a decision to make about cable cross section but I think 2.5 mm2 is sufficient unless you are "going portable" with a longer run when maybe a thicker cable is needed.
  35. 1 point
    Did you mange to revive the BeCM?
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    I never understand why you guys in the USA want a diesel Land Rover. The only reason we run diesels over here is down to our very very expensive fuel costs and the fact the diesel is a fair bit more frugal. But that is pretty much the only reason to want to run a Land Rover diesel. They are slower, a lot less refined, a lot more noisy and less powerful than a good rover V8. And generally with a worse weight distribution too. I'm not knocking the diesels, in their own right they are good engines (I run a diesel Land Rover and have had multiple examples). But a Rover V8 Defender is far superior at almost everything. The only real negative for the V8 is they tend to like water less than a diesel if you are doing a lot of wading.
  38. 1 point
    I'm with Bowie, that's a very poor interpretation... It annoys me giving into pedants, particularly when they're wrong, but it doesn't always make life easy. Swap out the supply into or bypass the inhibit relay should sort you out without much hassle.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Defender 200Tdi should be 0.85bar, I upped mine to be 15psi on the boost gauge when the new core was fitted back in May
  41. 1 point
    Try Britpart? Nah, kidding, a decent bearing place should sort you, if they're not busy.
  42. 1 point
    3 days work at £50 an hour. Depending on the extent of the work that can easily disappear if you need to remove the pedal boxes, wing, suspension turret... bla bla bla... Thats why I invested in my own welder. Welding repairs on old vehicles is a hugely time consuming job.
  43. 1 point
    The bloody wire to the stop solenoid fell off so I’ve bent it up now so won’t come off again plus new spade connector, guess I loosened it when trying to sort thu wires 🙄
  44. 1 point
    Great pic's , particularly the black and white , a grey Fergie trundling off down the road with a sheep dog running along behind could only add to it . thanks for posting Steve b
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    This mornings endeavors taking shape regards Stephen
  47. 1 point
    Hey guys I just wanted to know if anyone has any experience with these and if the are any good to put in my 90 I am goin to be doin off roading just thinking if they'd stand up to the shaking about
  48. 1 point
    ^^^^ yeah the Detroit rear/Truetrac front is a common fitment The main benefit being fit and forget and automatic action The main gripe with Detroit is it is an Unlocker technically, so is always locked, which could in the worst case scenario provide undesirable rear axle characteristics, ie muddy side slope it will promote more wheel slip and hence sideways axle slip, the benefit of being unlocked is you are allowing the wheels to seek out maximum traction and not promoting them to break it, like any locked diff does. Helical type/Torsen diffs really are the best all rounder, and from then each diff type can be accurately placed along a scale, trading between not forcing wheels to break traction at the open diff end and not allowing wheels to give away/waste any available drive at the welded/locked/spool diff end...
  49. 0 points
    I've seen worse. I had an escort that when I acquired it had a manual switch under the dash to operate the fan fitted by a 'professional' auto electrician to deal with a persistent overheating problem, caused by the fan not cutting in, that he hadn't been able to solve. Not only was the original problem solved in minutes by simply replacing the failed thermostatic switch in the coolant pipe, but the bypass had been wired entirely with bell wire - taking the full current through the fan. The switch itself (similar to the one above) had survived, but the entire run of wire was blackened. Utter miracle it hadn't set the car on fire!
  50. 0 points
    No time hombre got a tight deadline to keep, I've let the supplier know, just spent the last 2 hrs straightening it out, paint is just drying. - harder than it looks to get that thing back perpendicular.


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