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  1. 7 likes
    Unreliable viscous couplings are a PITA - had to change mine earlier this year; it wasn't even 24 years old..
  2. 6 likes
    Ok, So there is a thread on U/J quality in the international forum were people are mentioning short lives of their U/J, and questioning their quality. Of course, a genuine U/J generally lives longer than a cheap replacement. But In my experience, there is more to it. Mainly maintenance; how often do you grease your U/Js? And the next question is than how is it done. Before you all think I teaching you to suck eggs I will expand on this a bit more: Problem I found is that one grease nipple is serving 4 bearings. In reality, this means that the grease tend to find the route with the least resistance. This usually means you are effectively greasing 1 or 2 bearings only. And what about the others? They are dry as a bone and fall apart. To combat this, I thought about it, and came up with a method that I will show you here. It is rather involved, but I have not changed a U/J in 10 years. Here we go: First off, grease as you would normally. You can see which bearing gets grease, as it pours past the seal: The ones that dont get any grease need feeding as well. You can do this by pressing the bearing which has already been greased against the crosspiece like so: This now should stop the flow of grease to the already greased bearing, and find the next passage with the lowest resistance. If you still have other bearings that have no grease coming out, you can add a G-clamp with a nut, to press 2 opposed bearing cups against the cross piece. keep repeating this process until all bearing cups have grease coming out. This process is rather fiddly, but as mentioned, since I started doing it this way, I have had no failures. I have done this with the props on the car and using 2 opposed G-clamps. Also, the blue grease is better in my experience, as it does not go solid like the yellow stuff (which I am using here, unfortunately). Hope that helps, and have fun greasing these things! Daan
  3. 4 likes
    Had a look just now, I've placed six orders with Island 4x4 in total, the first one going back to 2011. All shipped to Ireland and all arrived without issue. I like Island 4x4. Dear Island 4x4. It's great that you came on to respond. You haven't addressed the actual problem though so it reads more like you came just to say "sod off". Not good for business. If the OP had gotten some communication from you he might not have posted in the first place. A simple "we're sorry we didn't get back to you in good time and we're making every effort to make sure our sales support is top notch", shows professionalism and that you care about each and every one of your customers - even if you hate the OP's guts and you're not doing squat to up your communication game. That little bit of acknowledgement would give you the chance of having his custom again, and that of anyone else who sympathises with him. Judging by their website, the OP is a member of a very active and motivated club. It doesn't matter how many parts you send around the world if your prospective customers feel as though there's no guarantee they'll hear from you again once the order is placed. I've had no reason to doubt your service in the past, but when it comes to placing another order, of course I'll have question whether your the right supplier. Before you tell me to sod off, I've written this because I'd like to know you're there when I need stuff, not because I want to have a go. George
  4. 4 likes
    Just to close this one out - I swapped the gearbox at the weekend (ably assisted by a very helpful forum member) and all has returned to normal. Old box sounded quite rough when turned by hand once removed from the vehicle, it may have lasted for another 100,000 miles or might have failed tomorrow, who knows. Interestingly more filings had accumulated on the drain plug magnet since I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago than had done so in the previous few years, so it seems something was breaking up inside. Thanks to all for the help.
  5. 4 likes
    Is this the 5 minute argument or the full half-hour?
  6. 3 likes
    You don't want bar grips. I drove the 109 to Russia and back on (sort of) bar grips - actually 9.00x16 Petlas: Dirtydiesel was ahead of me in the convoy in a 300TDi RRC with no interior/soundproofing, he said he spent hours on the road trying to find the odd noise his truck was making - dipping the clutch, turning things on & off, etc. etc... eventually we pulled into a petrol station, and as I rolled to a halt behind him he realised it was my tyres he could hear!
  7. 3 likes
  8. 3 likes
    You need to move with the times bushwhacker, no one off-roads land rovers any more. You need lowered springs, expensive alloys and LED headlights. Lots of those about 😂 Mo
  9. 3 likes
    To be fair, I've never needed an intercooler at low speeds On a technical point, didn't Daan instrument his 200TDi a while back with a collection of thermal sensors and post his results up? Much as I hate to introduce science to a good internet argument
  10. 2 likes
    Oh well. I thought in for a penny in for a pound. It's just done 80 miles to my parents. It's kind of local compared to most of my current journeys!
  11. 2 likes
    Err the wall behind the truck.....OK I'm going now. Mike
  12. 2 likes
    Thanks for the info. Must admit am tempted, but will pass in favour of the spending 5 times as much on the R-tech inverter MIG which can do stick too... As we've mentioned Bridgwater, Toolstation have their 'outlet' shop there, always worth a peruse if you're in the area. Weston Five-0; hmmmm not sure that TV series would get commissioned somehow. .... Damn now I have a mental image of the theme song to drunks fighting underneath the pier....
  13. 2 likes
    Thread revival I've finally looked at this again and bought a used VW 99 relay, plugged it in and it works! So I'm happy although I still wonder why the first two new relays didn't. Then I saw this thread in the Tech archive (how do you guys do those fancy links to other threads) and I moved my AMR2341 relay to the rear wiper. I followed the instructions in there from @nickwilliams and made the little loom to a suitable relay base. I replaced the resistor and got a 16s intermittent delay which is great. Thanks Nick for a great write-up. Finally, I replaced the wiper motor drive cable and the two wheel boxes and got a new pair of blades and all's good. I realised that the wheel boxes don't need to be replaced as long as you mark the spindle before pulling out the cable drive, as only a few teeth are in contact and they just need turning through 180. In fact I'm sure i've read about that too somewhere on here.
  14. 2 likes
    All cleaned out with fresh diesel in it, running nicely..... 👍
  15. 2 likes
    I remove the tensioner, slip the belt on, then refit the tensioner leaving the bolt loose, once it's back in place & correctly seated then the adjustment & tension of the timing belt & torque up of the tensioner bolt can be done
  16. 2 likes
    That 'helpful forum member' is a good chap James. He took a Sunday afternoon and a Monday evening out of his time to help me out this last week. Thanks Neil!
  17. 2 likes
    you cant beat a good pup picture to successfully punctuate a LR thread :-)
  18. 2 likes
    Ghastly looking thing, I've put a pitchfork in the back of the 90 in case one comes near. Mo
  19. 2 likes
    This is probably where your friend got the idea from: http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm I'm in total agreement with Snagger's statement of not throwing in a second hand engine on blind faith.There is a further rebuild option: If you have the room, get a second hand 12J engine to rebuild (you can still get a perfectly good 12J really quite cheap as people rip them out for a Tdi) so that you still have your land rover running while you take your time and rebuild the second engine - it takes the pressure off a bit and will stop you rushing the job and also allows you to spread the cost out if funds are tight. I think the head gasket is certainly worth doing first. It's dead easy to do on a 12J, it will also allow you to get a good look at the condition of the head, piston crowns and cylinder bores while you are there.
  20. 2 likes
    Fitted the lower dash in today inc the metal panel that has the air vent lever's screwed to it and sorting some of the wiring out, here are a few pic's I took just before I fitted the metal panel
  21. 2 likes
    And they are underway.
  22. 2 likes
    EDIS probably won't worry too much about spark gap...
  23. 2 likes
    Thanks for all the honest feedback gents. I think it would help to explain what i am trying to achieve with all these upgrades before going any further. Here in Lebanon, its impossible to own a new Defender (even while they were still being produced) due to the ban on diesel vehicles. Only the Lebanese army, UN, and/or diplomatically immune embassies of other nations were allowed to bring in and register such vehicles. That leaves us commoners with slim pickings. A defender is about as exclusive as it gets in a land where every other soccer mom is driving around in a 2017 G63 AMG...which cost $350k USD here including taxes and registration. The only choice we have is to try and find a relatively good shape defender from the days before the diesel ban and work on restoring the vehicle. If i could...i would go buy the most up to date Defender diesel motor, transmission, ECU and dash to make it a true factory spec vehicle. Since that isn't an option, I'm starting to play with all types of ideas. One of which is the LS3 motor mated to the auto transmission. At least my wife would be able to drive the car (she loves it by the way ). If i go ahead and modify the motor and transmission, i'll most likely upgrade the ECU and pop in the new dash with modern dials and electronics. My goal is not to make the car go crazy fast or handle in the twisties. I just wanna make the car modern and reliable. I would likely go for the more practical detuned motor option if available.
  24. 2 likes
    I personally find Engine Masters very entertaining. And of course even more Roadkill from which it has spawned. I like how they go against all the naysayers, and all the misconceptions and prejudice that is everywhere, both on the WWW and IRL. Just take the one where they completely destroy some headers and it did nothing bad to the performance of the engine, that will have put a lot of smart-arses in there place I like how finally someone does those tests that we have all been wondering about ever since we fixed our first moped But súre it isn't any exact science, but you shouldn't expect that from the show, another thing they did wrong was claiming that as the Alternator spins anyways it won't draw any extra HP, which of course it does with the higher load.
  25. 2 likes
    Every cooling fan thread ever...
  26. 2 likes
  27. 2 likes
    You're not kidding. Every time I go for a warrant of fitness, I have to endure the "it's a Land Rover, something must be wrong" mentality. This time it was "brakes pull to left" - except I can take my hands of the wheel, apply the brakes firmly and the steering wheel stays pointed straight ahead. That will be hard to improve. And he wanted me to fit things it never had from new - so I told him to check what the law says. He will but what a hassle. (Sorry about the off-topic rant but this page was what I opened my computer up to!)
  28. 2 likes
    When you've got all your leaks sorted can you come and do mine? You do realise you are slowly turning off the anti-corrosion system.
  29. 2 likes
    One of my grandads old mates used to make dolls houses and had everything in a single garage which all folded away like transformers so he could get his car in at night. He had a circular saw on a wardrobe sliding track which hinged out from a wall for cutting board. A table on wheels where each side folded up with a different power tool on each side ie router, bandsaw etc. His home made tools were as impressive as his dolls houses. He even had a bathtub sunk in the floor to use as a pit for car servicing
  30. 2 likes
    Yes, crammed in to the point of it being difficult to move A tip I picked up from ingenious woodworker and engineer Matthias Wandel (find him on Youtube) is to have as much equipment as possible on wheels. that way it can be nested away when not in use, while the items you want to use can be moved into a usable position. Obviously this won't work for everything; like my lathe, mill and #1 bench are far to big and heavy. My supplementary benches are currently Workmates with large boards clamped to them. They can be dragged about, but this often leads to the contents rolling or rattling off in the process. My longer term plan is to make a couple of mid-sized mobile benches, maybe with fold down extensions too. I shall try to make these matching heights so they can be pushed together for bigger projects.
  31. 2 likes
    Oops - thought I'd changed all that but I clearly didn't go back and set the rest of the groups correctly You should now be able to upload up to 10MB per post (total of all images). If you upload large images they'll be automatically resized to a sensible maximum for web use.
  32. 2 likes
    Very nice. Quality stands out, even in a photograph. I'm liking the homage to retro in the KC lighting covers. I do like a jeep based buggy. the lines work better For me the early days of challenge were more interesting. I did like the 'up to the arm pit sin mud' stuff. I liked the minimalist prep on the vehicles, the enormous amount of skill and effort to negotiate what would now be seen as an event car park. The lack of serious injuries despite using more dangerous kit - simply because common sense was more available from all sides. But I came in from RTV; the ultimate in driving skill and minimalism As for Ultra - to me the skill is in building the machine so it is fast and survives. I did that with comp safari for years. I was single and well paid then. If I still was, then I'd still do it. It's not a spectators sport either. I don't see the point in not having spectators - they are where the big money is
  33. 2 likes
    I do think it helps for anyone doing this if you can do the 90 deg in one movement - or failing this do a bit, then restart, but aim to complete in the second movement. I think the further you are on, the harder it is to restart. So if you have a limited movement, do say 30 deg, then reset and finish in one, rather than have to stop and do the the last 10 deg. I use a torque multiplier and it still makes me wonder whether the breaker bar will break.
  34. 2 likes
    Or in other words, "it's not just what happens, it's what you do about it that counts," something many companies have trouble understanding.
  35. 2 likes
    New cars are the property of the finance company, not the consumer That aside, I think he is talking intellectual property, not anything physical. Must be an American.
  36. 2 likes
    Thought my current project might generate a bit of interest here... Everything begins with a rusty bulkhead from a IIB Forward Control. It could have been repaired, but to my mind by the time I'd done so it would have been 90% new metal by the time it was done properly. A bit more thinking left me with the notion that it wasn't going to be much more difficult to build a new one from scratch. So, tape measure out, lots of measuring done, drawings made, and I ended up with a stack of sheet metal in various interesting shapes. Some work with a large press and other sheet metal forming devices started to make them look more like Land Rover bits. And with a bit more fettling they started to look even more like Land Rover bits. Then after drilling some holes and adding some weld it got closer still. Until something resembling a complete new unit had come into existence. Said unit has proved some of the drawings were spot on, others not so, and has also contributed some to getting the assembly sequence sorted. A few mistakes and other updates required mean that this unit will be cut up shortly, and rebuilt again (more completely) using updated components. However -and you are reading this right- complete Series II/IIA bulkheads will be available at a reasonable price quite soon.
  37. 2 likes
    So, we're nearly there with it, so here's a quick update with a few photos I've yet to post here. At the end of the last post I was ready to attach the footwells, here we see the Drivers side welded in to the door pillar, foot and stiffeners further up. Spot the important extra. Very few photos taken whilst I was glueing the passenger footwell in, but here we see it welded in, along with the centre section, and the rear panel for the dashboard also welded in. Then I added the transmission tunnel flange... Looking at the other side of the structure we have the stiffener which goes between the footwells. Starting with a flat piece of steel cut to shape I formed it up using a 2lb hammer, the bench vice and the edge of the steel bench. My metal forming skills are improving. Seen installed between the footwells. And starting to assemble the dashboard. By this stage my phone had run out of battery, so there's no photos of the nearly finished product. As it sits the wiper spindle/washer jets holes need drilling out to the correct size, along with adding bonnet and vent flaps hinges, the drip rail and the tabs for the heater vents. More holes will need to be added for some of the fittings and fixtures when it's dressed up for use on a vehicle, but we're very nearly there. As it's coming with me to the 'Brass Monkeys at the Station' event at the Northern part of the NRM the last job of the day was to give it a blast over with a coat of Buzzweld primer to prettify it some before it goes on display. Expect some photos of it tomorrow.
  38. 2 likes
    So, since I last posted there's been quite a bit going on in the workshop. First off, I can now do SWB truck cab filler plates, having gotten my hands on a genuine parts one to copy. A lot of reworking, testing and altering has gone on, learning lessons from the original build. Most parts have had some sort of alteration, but it's pretty much there now. Then lots of clamping, welding, measuring, adjusting, measuring and tickling with hammers. Then it was fitted into the jig to get built up fully. And with the inner panel sat in to test the fit. The footwells look like they'll fit rather well also. As an added bonus I've sold a few full width top section repair panels. The blanked off vent holes will be a production option should you wish it. For more regular updates you can find my page on Facebooks if you search for Westlakes All Wheel Drive.
  39. 2 likes
  40. 1 like
    I have/had a 1986 110 2.5 na which I put a 300tdi defender engine into. Used the LT77 by cutting the center out of the 110 flywheel casing allowing me to bolt the 300 to the LT77 and no bolts left out. Cutting out the center lets you use the 300 seal on the output shaft. Made up a down pipe from 2 x 90 degree bends welded together. one engine mount will work ok the other needs made. Doing it this way no props needed to be changed the gear and trans levers stay the same. If yours is not a galvanised chassis you have this option. Good Luck
  41. 1 like
    Oh, absolutely. It's your show and you should make it how you want to You didn't happen to be at the TLF gathering at Brooklands last week did you?
  42. 1 like
    Way Hey guys, I'M BACK !!!. Computer sorted complete with proper anti virus etc etc. Cost a few ££££ but there you go. Just wanted to say EH UP to Snagger and Les and all those who helped with advice regarding my timing cover conversion. However...i lost a lot of images due to the computer but my eldest son knows someone who's a bit of a geek with computers and may be able to sort something out. So all may not be lost, just yet!!. Anyway, hope you lot are all ok. Dave.
  43. 1 like
    That is one certainty, but I suspect you could apply it to any manufacturer if you live in the UK, or in fact anywhere that it isn't regularly 50C -all vehicles will need to be designed to cope with this, I mean if you bought a car in the UK and drove it to,say, Morocco, you would expect it to keep working, no?
  44. 1 like
    Like I said DC ... Magnet 😂 Mo
  45. 1 like
    I even got a mention on page 2: Then there's this...Bobbing back and forth, the slot for his Mother’s 10p sits in the driver’s door. Ok, he probably means this is a toy. But, yes, they are banded by 2" which gives you a cheaper and wider end result than standard deep dish rims (they are 5.5" td5 rims, widened to 7.5"). This gives you a 8mm offset, like a weller 8 spoke or a modular wheel. I have to say, the writer could not have chosen his name better. Daan
  46. 1 like
    So to finish up the coolant and heater work, I kept thinking about how the restrictor plate seems like the wrong solution for my needs. I will be doing short journeys and the point of this entire build is to build something as usable and reliable as an ordinary car. I don't want to have to consider the length of a journey and how many oil changes I'll need if I drive less than 20 miles, I just want to jump in. So, to that end I dug out a 82 degree thermostat I bought for the 3.5 about 6 years ago and this... ...Is now this. I'd always assumed that there was a reason why this wasn't the first suggestion for getting around the lack of a pig's heart. I assumed one just wouldn't fit. Turns out thinking doesn't always get you anywhere. The last pipework issue remains the oil cooler pipes. I have 50th Anniversary pipes that don't fit the engine but at least the routing should be right (it isn't). We know that Freelander fittings fit in the engine ports and by basic logic P38 pipes must fit too - but the routing won't be right. So, given that I can buy £40ish more just to get some fittings from some RR pipes I'll then have to throw away, to then get them put onto my 50th pipes (that due to the amount of fixed tube look like they don't even fit in the engine bay) by a hydraulics shop that doesn't actually seem to exist in my area, at even more cost in their time and my fuel, adding to the £30ish I already have sunk on this.... I'll be working on £100 minimum by the time this whole deal is sorted out to end up with pipes that East Coast Rovers seem to think are inherently not good. http://eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html The best solution is to find out the thread size of the M22 fittings and make up my own pipes using the push-fit stuff here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/push-on-hose-fittings No mythical hydraulics shop, no fires, no wasted pipe, just proper, braided hose that's actually worth the money even though it will work out slightly more expensive overall. Long, boring post maybe, but I'm writing this because I hope it will be of use to someone else in a few years' time having to work on the exact same problem and coming up with the same questions. It's the information I'd have wanted starting out 5 years ago. Another message for this FutureMan of the internet - don't get anything made bespoke. Off-the-shelf parts are fine but it seems like getting an exhaust/radiator/whatever involves several hundred unanswered emails and phonecalls to try to give them your business, then explanations of what you actually want followed by visits because despite the professional-quality design drawings and pictures you KNOW they didn't understand/write down/remember what you wanted, then several missed deadlines, broken promises and failed attempts to give them your money before you finally get a product that you then have to introduce to a mallet/hammer/hacksaw to make work because they assumed their generic product would fit despite your instructions that it would not. Note that this does not improve as price increases. Also be prepared to sit through several long rants about the economy and how no one supports British manufacturing any more. In light of my experience I assume these were some kind of satirical work of comedy, but I fear they were not.
  47. 1 like
    1. Intake hole - yes and no. Some do and some don't. Doesn't seem to be a reason. More do than don't 2. I've yet to drive a 300 with a hybrid turbo or upgraded turbo that actually drives well across the range. Easy to tune for certain applications - low down grunt or mid range, or high range. I think the standard set up works the best for real world applications 3. I would suggest you buy a replacement cartridge kit off one of the more reputable eBay suppliers and build one up - or spend the money on a rebuilt turbo from one of the many reputable suppliers around the UK.
  48. 1 like
    If your Discovery is an 06 it will be a TDV6 and therefore won't have a traditional fuel stop solenoid, it will most likely just stop telling the injectors to fire. It sound to me like you have a corroded earth somewhere, the engine ecu might be earthing via the lighting circuit. It's difficult to say where the fault could be, it's obviously not ideal having the sunroof leaking into the car as parts of the main loom run under the plastic trim on the sills and any connections within that section quickly corrode and fail.
  49. 1 like
    flush with the alloy flywheel housing so the flywheel does not touch the seal when rotating
  50. 1 like
    I believe the Santana gearbox is the standard V8 LT85 one. Assuming the crossmember is the same on the 90 as it is on the 110 then you need part number NTC1963. That's what I used on my 1988 110 which was exactly the same as the original.