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  1. 5 points
    Usually it's asking for help (I'm sure I'll be on again soon) about the Landy, just wanted to share the good news that the Landy passed MOT with only one advisory 😊😊 hard work has paid off for another year. Have a good weekend folks 🍺🍺
  2. 4 points
    I've been having a go at sprucing up the LR4x4 logo that Happyoldgit made a few years ago - but none of us in the mod team are exactly blown away by my efforts, and none of the other mods claim any graphic design skills either, so we thought we'd see what the rest of you could come up with. As a reminder, this is the current logo: and this is the cleaned up version I came up with: It's an improvement, but maybe a missed opportunity - plus the brushed steel look means that when it's saved as a PNG with a transparent background the file size is rather large, and it would be too expensive to use it on the stickers (clothing would likely be embroidered anyway, which kind of gives a similar effect though usually at 90o). So I tried a solid version too: More practical but not as nice. So, if you fancy having a crack at a new logo, here's the brief: Broadly similar typeface and colouring to the current logo, for continuity (the current font appears to be Impact). The blue in the background of mine is the header colour from the site, so it obviously needs to look good on that. It should be usable on different backgrounds - ideally it should be usable on white or have a reversed version. Sensible files sizes when exported as a 24bit PNG. Must be suitable for production as a car/window sticker, and on clothing - if necessary in a simplified form but ideally exactly the same as on the site (the current stickers use a silvery finish rather than the "reflection" of the site logo). Can be either just text or incorporate a graphical element. Keep it clean and simple, though. Doesn't need to maintain the .com from the current logo (but doesn't have to get rid of it either). Should be suitable for use in a square format for social feeds (this can be a modified version of the logo or placed on a background colour - probably the blue from the site header - just as long as it looks good). Should be available as a layered graphic / vector graphic with all elements editable. Closing date for submissions, either on this thread or by PM to me is the end of this month (30th September 2017). We'll then shortlist the entries we consider meet the above criteria and post them on a poll for all the members to vote for their favourite. Gentlemen and ladies, start your enginesgraphics editing software...
  3. 4 points
    Agree with Steve and Lewis. Avatars are a foundation of internet communities
  4. 3 points
    They use 2.5m steel for the legs same as Richards and 4mm for rear x member, bolt in gear box x member as standard. They don't remove any excess galv from bolt holes but the chassis they had on display didn't look bad TBH. Guess I'll see when it arrives in 3 weeks! I'll be sure to put up a rebuild thread and let you all know what it is like.
  5. 3 points
    All fixed for under Β£500 and just passed the MOT (after changing the TREs)
  6. 2 points
    For my part I would prefer to see the .com retained. As Mav rightly points out LR4x4 on it's own means diddly squat so it needs to show an online association.
  7. 2 points
    Ok so gave jacking the bulkhead apart a go and it worked. Lifted the bulkhead and fitted the bolt at the drivers side. Used a small bottle jack, some wood to prevent any damage and with some fiddling got the passenger bolt through. There was a bit of creaking as the bulkhead flexed but nothing to worry about. Just need to get it off again and paint it now! Thanks for all the replies πŸ‘
  8. 2 points
    Thought I'd continue the thread until I get to the interesting bit once the paint is dry. As I haven't had the foresight of Mr Rattler to fit a log burner, haven't got any heat in my garage and it was only 12C and very wet here today. So I've been busy painting indoors; the kitchen was a much better place. This is a primer coat and then two of Frost's Chassis black. Probably one more coat will do it.
  9. 2 points
    just google optimil products http://optimillraceproducts.com/index.php?cPath=33&osCsid=7490f97cf41f62ee0d6cfc3b5e8cc163 hope your sitting down & got a firm hold on your piggy bank, cos when you see the prices, piggy bank will do a runner
  10. 2 points
    So after a rather busy weekend I've. Changed steering arm ball joints (turns out I'd not done these balls and there was a tad bit of play in one of the balls) Next was to remove the A frame and replace the main ball joint and upper bushes and bolts (passenger side chassis bush was considerably soft compared to other side) Finally stripped of the trailing arms and re bushed the axle end and new chassis bush units. As per standard operation it wasn't till the last bolt before the true problem showed itself. (Drivers side) As soon as I took the tension off the chassis side of the arm the "float" became hideously apparent. I'd had a crow bar in the gap previously and i couldn't get the bushed end to do anything odd, least I've got a nice problem find. Luckily the mount wasn't fully oval, just a worn ring on the inner side of the mount, so I made up some washes that fitted in the gap snuggly the allow the bush to be clamped properly. Test drive complete, wandering now stopped whoop! Also the change gear clunk has been reduced, must have been a worn A frame ball joint. Tired and rather filthy but happy chappy. Thanks for input chaps.
  11. 2 points
    There are two aspects to the immobiliser. The immobiliser itself will prevent the starter motor relay from energising if it is armed so, assuming you are using the full harness/relays than if the starter is turning then the immobiliser is not armed. The immobiliser sends a unique code to the engine ECU periodically and that code has to match the one stored in the ECU before the ECU will run the engine. If the AS10 and ECU came from the same vehicle than they should already be coded together, if not you will need to update the code in the ECU using Nanocom or similar. If you are seeing puffs of grey smoke from the exhaust then it is probably trying to run but a TD5 needs a lot of cranking to purge the air from it, assuming it's had no fuel in it at some point. There is a purge sequence for the primary parts of the fuel system (the fuel rail, filter and pipes) but the injectors themselves can only be purged by trying to start the engine. The fuel rail is purged by following the priming routine of pumping the throttle pedal 5 times after ignition on. It actually runs the fuel pump cycle as many times as you pump the throttle but 5 is normally enough for the fuel rail. Once the fuel rail is primed you just need to keep it cranking over with the throttle pedal to the floor. As each injector primes you'll find more puffs of grey smoke appearing until, eventually, it will start to fire on one or more cylinders. The injectors have their own fuel compartment inside them and it's only when the engine is being cranked and the injector is firing that the air can be removed from that compartment. Hence if a TD5 runs out of fuel it can take a while to start again.
  12. 2 points
    That may be my favourite typo so far
  13. 2 points
    Avatars were available without being a supporting member - I've had an image since I joined in 2007. Whilst I have no problem contributing (and have done regularly over the years, and will do again shortly) the removal of avatar privileges seems a bit Photobucket-like to do retrospectively
  14. 1 point
    Pretty sure I've got an old crush spacer in my "boxoflt230bits" and if memory serves it was deformed way more than the one in your pics. Will measure tonight if I can find it.
  15. 1 point
    Ok yes that makes sense. It was worth a mention IMHO ☺️ If I were you and I'd had that offer from Dave Ashcroft I would simply pickup the phone. You can describe exactly what you've got, what you can see and I'm sure he will know what's happened and have a solution.
  16. 1 point
    Morning All, Treasurer speaking As many will be aware, after I looked into the funding situation of the forum, and noticed that past upgrades had made incorrect status changes, on resetting things to be as they should have been, the issue of Members & their "Avatars" arose,. After much chewing and discussions in the A&M Team I am now able to give not just some clarification and a final update, but have also decided that it would be a good idea for members new and old to have it very clearly outlined as to the groups, and the processes of moving within each. So here goes ! Finbally, on the question of Avatars, if you are in "Settled In" or either of the 2 x 'Supporter' groups, it is possible you may not have the ability to replace your Picture, if this is the case please PM me and I'll go and make the appropriate changes, in the meantime this will be posted at the top of every forum so new members can see about the groups, and also about how to go about supporting the Forum financially This "Header" will be deleted in say approx 1 month - just leaving the outline of groups and fundings set out below. In the meantime I have a lot of work to do behind the scenes to finalise everything. There are still 3 x People who I have regular monies from that I cannot allocate ! these are : Mr & Mrs Sheppard Mr C Grady M Baynham James Lees If you are one of the 4 x reading this PLEASE PM ME !!!!! Sorry its taken a while, but its a mammoth task + then to also get to grips with the historical issues which then arose on top which were rather unexpected !. Nige ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How 'Membership Levels' work & How to help financially support LR4x4.com Guest The "GUEST" Level. As a "Guest" you have very limited board access, as you are not yet a LR4x4 Member. You can view and read parts of the Forum, but cannot post or comment. To do this you need to Register New Faces. Now you are a Member. However, all your initial posts are scanned and approved by Admin & Moderators to check your not a Scammer,, Troll, or posting unsuitable posts. When we have decided your a serious new member of LR4x4 you move to : Getting Comfortable Now you can post without approval, and upload attachments, use the 'Personal Messenger' system, 'Calendar', and 'Gallery', and access to other 'Sub Forums'. Later you move into the final Group on the board : Settled In This is the last of the boards standard 'Groups'. In 'Settled In' you do however get the benefit of an "Avatar" (A picture of your choice you can change and alter as you wish) which shows on the LHS of your posts under your forum name and above your 'Settled In' Title, and you are free to now sell within the For Sale Section of LR4x4. As with 'Settled In, ' and all the other Standard Groups, all the above groups have Advertising showing as part of the boards standard system. 'Silver & Gold Supporters Groups" You may have noticed the 'Silver' & 'Gold' Banners some members show in their profile and posts, these are 2 Additional 'Special Groups' that many members kindly join. These 2 Special Member Groups are : "Forum Financial Supporter" & "Long Term Forum Financial Supporter". As you may guess these Groups are reserved for those who value the Forum so much they wish to contribute a small amount to assist with the boards not insignificant running costs via a Donation. All A&M Team Members Past & Present are in this group as a recognition to their commitment & contributions (many also contribute financially too) to LR4x4 Forum Financial Supporter You can enter this group (from ANY of the Groups above) jumping straight into this Group via a Donation of Β£25, which is valid for a year from payment. After that year expires you return to whichever Standard Group you merit. A reminder is sent 1 month before expiry. Payment can be made via a Bank Transfer, or, more commonly via a PayPal Payment. PLEASE also advise our Treasurer Hybrid_From_Hell who will ensure your changes are made. The additional benefits over and above "Settled in" level, are Cleaner Forum Viewing - No Adverts Access to 'Special Promotions' LR4x4 has from time to time (Always at a discount to Forum Financial Supporters & Long Term Forum Financial Supporters) A "SILVER" Banner under your Forum Name - Giving recognition of your kind and valuable Donation to LR4x4 Long Term Forum Financial Supporter This group is the same as 'Forum Financial Supporter' except the Banner is the "Gold" Banner. You can joing this group helping fund the forum via either a Monthly Standing order of just Β£2, or a Yearly Standing order of Β£24,...... either moves you into this top group, along with the "Gold Banner" Cleaner Forum Viewing - No Adverts Access to 'Special Promotions' LR4x4 has from time to time (Always at a discount to Forum Financial Supporters & Long Term Forum Financial Supporters) A "GOLD" Banner under your Forum Name - Giving recognition of your kind and valuable Donation to LR4x4 The PayPal account is accessed via The Orange "DONATE" button at the top of the Home page on the forum, or via this link : PayPal Donation Link For Standing Orders and Bank information - Contact either the Treasurer - Hybrid_From_Hell or any of the A&M Team, we don't post up this information for obvious reasons ! LR4x4 exists purely for members. All of the A&M Team give up their time for FREE, no Salaries, Fees, Commissions etc etc , are paid or taken by ANY of the A&M team. All and ANY contributions go 100.00% to the forum running costs with Β£0.00 Deductions. Always has been... always will be On behalf of the LR4x4 A&M team : One last thing - Enjoy LR4x4.com
  17. 1 point
    Are you able to lay out the items that were there in place, in a line so we can see exactly what's been fitted (or not)?
  18. 1 point
    Update! Trip to Peterborough for the LRO Show yesterday and did a cash deal with Shielder for a new galv chassis, about Β£700 cheaper and lead time of 3 weeks. Now busy studying @western's chassis swap thread to see what else I need before it lands.
  19. 1 point
    Regarding pointing the diff pinion straight at the transfer box output, that's not neciserially a good idea. The straight UJ at the diff end effectively running a constant velocity V.S. a large angle ~12-15Β°+ (which is therefore running a non constant velocity) at the transfer box end can cause the prop to "slap" the centre diff on overrun at higher speeds. This sounds like a terribly rough bearing inside the T box! Horrible You're better off trying to equalise angles than at both ends and phase the It's to suit. If you keep the prop straight at one end and want all the angle to happen at the other end that needs to be a double Cardon joint that runs at effectively a constant velocity
  20. 1 point
    Hi again Nick and guys. Sorry i've not post anything regarding the ( Ticking Noise ) but after my last weekend trip my other half wanted to go on holiday, so.... Anyway this gave me some time to reflect on things regarding the engine and in the end, i've decided to bite the bullet and try to get as much done as i can in one go. Obviously this has meant saving up lots of pennies as this will cost a few quid to do it right. I don't really want to be stripping the head off again in a hurry !!!. So..i've still to check the Tappet Guides but it's been raining again and again. Depending on what i find under closer inspection will determine if i buy a full new set. Plus valve guides, plus new hotspots, new valve stems plus FITTING!!. I'M kind of looking around the Β£250-300 pound mark i reckon. So anyway, i shall let you know my findings as soon as i'm able. Cheers Dave.
  21. 1 point
    Definitely not forever - the deadline's the end of this month Followed by a poll and then we'll implement the logo, per my original post. It's a fair point about losing the .com on the stickers (and I guess to a lesser extent clothing) - depending on whether it works with the chosen design we could always have a version including the .com for those. As an aside - I meant to credit Steve (HappyOldGit) for creating the current logo, which has worked very well for the last few years both on the site and on merchandise. Thanks Steve
  22. 1 point
    If it ain't broken why try fix? Its part of the identity of the forum so imho this shouldn't be changed lightly. I'd also like to think we should keep the ".com" part too, if its a sticker on a vehicle LR4x4 by itself doesn't really mean that much unless you are in the know... but LR4x4.com suggest its a website and any jo blogs can recognise that and type it into a browser for a look? - mind the first place people probably turn to is Google for anything so you could argue it doesn't matter so much. But I think the ".com" should be included. Suggestion change colours? Gold/Green or Silver/Green or Silver/Black more Land Rover type colours? Mav
  23. 1 point
    It won't just be the front wheels that slip on road- i can get 4 wheel wheelspin in my 90 and that's just with my little Rover 3.5! When this happens the whole vehicle tends to start to bounce up and down as wheels spin/grip/spin/grip - when this happens it can't be doing anything any good at all... I hate to think how much the halfshafts are twisting in this scenario. I think the result withe the 6.3 will be spin/grip/*pop* instead. I do like the noise of the 6.3 though - it sounds evil. If you do carry on with the conversion please post it up! Good luck
  24. 1 point
    Got the disks today and they are the correct ones looks like I have a non abs td5 rear axle
  25. 1 point
    Tracking can also be set fairly easily by just measuring from wheel to wheel on both sides, if need be.
  26. 1 point
    Ha no that's a step too far. The real test of my relationship will be if I try to hang the tank and cradle above the Aga to bake them. Here I'm just using the clothes airer and think I've got away with it πŸ€”
  27. 1 point
    There you go........................... http://optimillraceproducts.com/ As already stated, take a deep breath first. Got the door-handles and F&R hinges, not cheap but lovely pieces of kit.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Hi Folks, Thanks for the info. Came across this too after a bundle of web searches http://www.defendercenter.ch/STC 7555 Hundeschutzgitter 1-teilig 110.pdf Simon...
  30. 1 point
    I can help you with some of them. Plain black is usually earth. Brown is unfused permanent live, purple is fused permanent live, white/purple is fuel pump No1 White/green is fuel pump No2 This might help you determine what the others are doing. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/cms/files/colour_code_for_vehicle_wiring_-_new_order_2.pdf http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/colourcodes.htm
  31. 1 point
    Hi Keith RC900 is very similar to a number of converters like Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 etc. They all work in the same way, chemically reacting with the rust to seal it in preventing it from increasing. For all of them you have to remove all loose rust etc with wire brush and then clean thoroughly. All of these converters need you to paint on top, or coat with a wax and/or wax underseal or for max protection paint, then wax underseal.Personally, I prefer hydrate 80 as it's brush applied, so you can work it into the crevices etc. However it needs a couple of coats to ensure you get good coverage, and you can't brush inside the chassis, so here rc900 with a spray lance is ideal. Alternatively, you've got rust removers like Bilt Hamber's Deox gel, which will remove the rust. For example on exterior of a chassis you could use a combination of flap discs and wire wheels to remove must of the rust, and Deox gel where it's not easy to access. Then paint with a good active primer like corroless S, buzzweld RCP. Then overpaint with top coat like corroless rf16, buzzweld cio. Optionally, you could then add a layer of wax underseal like dinitrol 4941 on top for max protection. POR15 is often recommended, however it's best applied to a wire brushed rusty surface. You can't overpaint other paints with it, so not ideal for touching up an existing chassis in situ, unless you can remove all of the existing paint. Epoxy mastic's are popular too. Personally, I haven't found them as useful as the other paint options. They are a two part paint, so you have to mix with a hardener/activator and so you have a limited work time. I've found they are best applied on thick, and it's hard to get a good finish if doing a number of parts due to the limited working time. I can see the attraction if you've blasted/galvanised a whole chassis and you could spray multiple layers with a quick application time. Again, they are not great over existing paints, as they can be prone to chipping off in these areas.I've had success in using it on blasted parts, that have been cold zinc primed (Bilt hamber electrox) and then two coats of epoxy. Overall, Ive come to prefer the corroless S primer and RF16 topcoat. Lastly, upol raptor is another option. Like the others, chassis needs all of the loose rust/paint removing, existing paint prepped with scotchbrite, then throughly cleaned. Upol do a raptor anti corrosive epoxy primer, then you can overcoat with the raptor topcoat. The topcoat has isocyanates, so full face breathing mask is required in EU and you need to fully cover skin too when in use. I haven't tried raptor yet, although I do plan to use it on the plastic sills etc. of the range rover classic and may try it out as an undercoat of the body (not chassis). For inside the chassis, you could spray dinitrol rc900 then one or two coats of 3125.
  32. 1 point
    Yippee all fixed , two brand new cheap master cylinders both knackered, fitted trw one it bled in 2 mins job done Thank you very much for your help much appreciated
  33. 1 point
    I'm aware this isn't a democracy but I'm with the masses on this. I think avitars are essential for forum use as it is a lot easier to remember members previous content....for good or bad. that feature could at least be free surely? Although I will add..... Β£2 a month is only the price of a can of red bull, red bull is bad for you, so now you drink one can less which makes you feel better and you don't die as soon from drinking it.....lr4x4 just extended your life. Your welcome!
  34. 1 point
    Happy Friday guys, ok I'm not the best when it comes to relays and electrics etc so please any advice make it child proof πŸ˜‚ Roofbar lights stopped working, checked fuses a while back and they came back on (loose fuse?) so anyway, they stopped again. I've noticed there's two replays on the heater box under the bonnet. The spot light wiring attach to them along with a number of other wires. Theres also a black wire coming from the alternator connecting into one of the relays along with two inline fuses. I did a bit of research about relays so know a little now. So the trouble is, I tried to change the relays thinking it could be a fault there, but in doing so I've muddled up the wires, when I put them all back on, I went to start the landy and only got a loud ish click..... so,did a bit more swapping and got it starting again ok, but, I have two wires now spare both thin black ones. One is that alternator wire and the other looks like it splices into the original harness. 😞😞 if pictures would help I can take some later......
  35. 1 point
    Trace every wire associated with them. The power feed and relay earths can be binned, the wires to the light units put to one side for now, leaving the trigger wires. Trace them to where they are spliced into the head light circuits and remove the splice, repairing the insulation as you finish. You may need to remove the wrap tape from modified sections of wiring loom - its easier and neater to use flexible plastic conduit to tidy and protect the wiring on completion. The black feed appears to be coming from the alternator diode pack that runs to the charge warning light. I suspect that it was used as an automatic cut-out to kill the roof lights if the alternator wasn't providing charge. Given that basic relays take up to 30A, I suspect they made a system that used one relay to cut power if the alternator was out, and the second relay, daisy chained off the first, was switched by the head lights. That means the main current feed would not be the black wire. If had set it up that way, I'd also have a switch somewhere on the dash so that the lights can be left off or come on automatically with the high beam. If you never knew about the switch, and it has been left in the on position, that would account for the previous owner not being eventually caught by the traffic police!
  36. 1 point
    Yes, that's scary. And it's top of chassis, so indicative of deeper problems. There have been at least two repairs nearby already. I'd be taking that off the road today, goodness knows what the brake lines are like. If you are time poor, but have cash, then I'd re-chassis, if you are time rich, but cash poor, I'd strip it to the chassis, get it blasted and repair it. If you are time and cash poor, your doing something wrong, and should buy a KIA, or a Hyundai, until you have the time or cash to fix it. But please don't drive it. Sorry, not what you want to hear on a Friday night.
  37. 1 point
    The plastic wheel arch surrounds on my D2 were looking decidedly tired, grey, faded in the sun, etc. I tried various proprietary products which did not do the job. I've now used a good quality black shoe polish, paste in a tin type, not liquid, applied with a stiff brush. I used a thin sheet of card around the edge of the arch to prevent polish getting on the paintwork. Early days but much improved and looking good.
  38. 1 point
    If it only happens when you drive you could also check your wheel bearings for play. If they have play in them then they can knock the pads back as they wobble resulting in a spongy feeling pedal. HTH Mo
  39. 1 point
    I agree with Soren. Keep it coming please. I particularly like the detail of the methods you are using. Many threads talk about doing stuff but not necessarily about how the stuff is done!
  40. 1 point
    There is no such thing as too much tech Allen! I love it, and I'm sure everybody else does as well. However commenting, not only on this Forum, but in general seems to have died out a bit (myself included, not pointing fingers) maybe because we're so used to just sitting back and being entertained? I don't know, but please do keep it up as long as you feel like it, axle swaps is always interesting, even if its not an axle type I would use I love seeing and reading about it anyways, there's always stuff to be learned
  41. 1 point
    Pallet racking is the closest thing to building a workshop tardis.
  42. 1 point
    A lot of work goes into this....
  43. 1 point
    Thats a very clean looking sump - nice job
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Anderznader and ejparrot - - yes your both fine thank you Sirs !!
  46. 1 point
    I think I'm overdue, too. What are the rates and terms, Nige?
  47. 1 point
    According to the IVA manual rear fog light must only operate when dipped, main beam or front fog lights are in operation. Must extinguish when side lights are turned off and remain off when side lights are turned back on. However what manufacturers, MOT and construction and use say isn't necessarily the same as IVA. This I found to be the case for SVA so it wouldn't surprise me for IVA. Mike
  48. 1 point
    Big lumpy diesels kill LR gearboxes, so 6 cylinders is better (smoother) than 4, smaller may be better than the biggest/most powerful and don't labour it in high gears at low RPM. Or just fit the entire Nissan drivetrain and enjoy driving your abomination against the Gods of unreliability...
  49. 1 point
    well, going from MS1 to MS3 gets you 2 extra whatsits obviously
  50. 1 point
    on vehicle wiring 7 connections to be made to from vehicle to socket, left indicator = green/red trace rear fog lights = red/yellow trace vehicle earth wires = plain black right indicator = green/white trace right side/tail lights = red/orange trace brake lights = green/purple trace left side/tail lights = red/black trace trailer socket & plug connection pins colour is the trailers 7 core cable match these functions to the vehicle list http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/shop/132/133/142/