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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/23/2020 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    Hi all, I'm currently rebuilding the LT230T 43D of our Td5 Defender after an issue in the transmission which eventually turned out to be in the front axle. Fortunately I enjoy doing this - I've always wanted to do a gearbox and I can honestly say that it is the best way to learn how it works and how to treat it. I also took the opportunity to make some photographs. Initially because the thing looks very nice - it's almost a pity to have to hide it in the casing - but I also realised that I have never seen comparable images. I intended to post these images later because some things should still be improved, but since a member is currently experiencing issues with his CDL, I figured that I already should post what I have. Presumably a lot of forum members know how it works, but for the others I'll try to explain a bit. Feel free to correct or add. Please mind that I have invested quite some effort in making these - so respect my copyright. This is the complete centre differential with shifting forks and output shafts: Here the forks are removed: and now the output shafts too: The large cylindrical volume is the diff carrier which houses the differential gears. The two large gears are the high gear (smaller) and low gear (larger). They each freely rotate on the shaft and as long as the main gearbox is in gear they're driven continuously by the input shaft through the intermediate gears which are not shown. The set of small teeth with large distance between them - dog teeth - are each part of the large sprocket: In between the dog teeth one can see a more finely splined part with a large grooved ring around it - the high/low gear selector ring. The splined part is fixed to the differential housing, and by shifting the selector ring over the dog teeth of one of the gears, that gear will take the diff housing along in its rotation. In these pictures the ring is between the two large sprockets, so the LT230 is in neutral. If the R380/LT77 would be in gear with the engine running, only the two gears would rotate - the diff housing wouldn't. In the following pictures the assembly is positioned the other way round - left and right are switched (one of the reasons I want to remake some of the images). Half of the diff housing is removed, one can see the actual differential. On the left is now a smaller ring over the splined end of the diff carrier. That's the diff lock selector. Again, you see a set of dog teeth, this time they are part of the output shaft (you can see the shafts below). The shafts can rotate freely, so the small differential gears can do their work in compensating any differences in rotation of both axles. So diff lock is off. Here the diff lock selector has moved over the dog teeth. The shaft is now connected to the diff housing. None of the parts can move or rotate in relation to one another - everything is connected as if it is one piece, so diff lock is on: These are just the output shafts and diff gears. You can see the dog teeth on the left. The spiral at the right drives the speedo cable. And here they are relative to the whole assembly (although the gears should be meshing, the main reason why I want to remake the series). Hope you enjoy it and that it can help some people. Greetings, Joris
  2. 7 points
    It is alive 😀 I have just done a nice and varied 30 mile trip up hill and down dale (in beautiful weather - blue skies above the mists). I chose some reasonable hills and there have been plenty of gear changes so hopefully a good bit of variable engine speed. On initial cranking with the solenoid disconnected, the oil pressure didn't rise enough to switch the warning lamp off. After four decent cranks and the lamp still on, I re-connected and cranked one more time to fill the injector pipes. I had thought that I'd see diesel spirting from the tops of the injectors but the pipes were sitting quite close and there was none, although there was diesel in the tops. So I nipped up the unions and at the next crank it fired in the first revolution. There was a bit of white smoke as I pulled away and then it was gone. This afternoon I'll put some more miles on. It feels like a hooray moment.
  3. 7 points
    Yes i have considered it, and it is the right way to go but the cost of owning a Defender in Malta in prohibitive of my budget. The Series are easier to acquire here and easier to maintain in term road licence and insurance. I like hacking and making thing personal but i do not in any way want to make a defender from a series. But make a Series just more livable on modern roads . Hey Mike here the pics that broke from my original post Here is my Mini transformation she is my pride and joy but it was bitch to bring back : Now back to Land Rovers
  4. 6 points
    Finally started getting the roof on. One side done, hopefully do the other side tomorrow.
  5. 5 points
    It's a professional stunt production for the upcoming James Bond film. I can tell you're a fan 😂
  6. 5 points
    This is my valentines card off my good lady So to modify a couple of Landrover statements . The best wife x far and One wife love it regards Stephen
  7. 5 points
    Success! We got it lined up perfectly first time, on bulkhead bolt straight in and then the other needed a ratchet strap to pull the foot in by 2mm. All the rear cross member bolts then lined up exactly. Really pleased 😁
  8. 4 points
    And the whole contraption with the input and intermediate gears: J
  9. 4 points
    Well I'm collecting (hopefully not too much of) a project Land Rover on Sunday. Aim is by the time I leave the farm I'm collecting it from it'll be ready for an MOT so I can put it to use. Once that's on the road then and my (at least) double Land Rover garage is built then I can focus on sorting out a few things on the 110 (notably doors and a few wiring issues courtesy of a dodgy trailer in Scotland).
  10. 4 points
    As the 109 is now 40 years old it's technically MOT and tax exempt... except that the guidance, such as it is, says: So, looking at the 109 most reasonable people would say it's been very substantially changed, but reading on... OK, so the replacement chassis is no problem. Well the suspension is of the same type/method and uses original spring mounts, so I guess suspension is OK? No mention of axles at all so I guess I'm free on that one... I could bolt LR axles back on with no changes. Steering is PAS, quite different than Series - that's a change then! Or is it... So, axles & running gear (which includes steering under their criteria) are OK as long as you're improving efficiency, safety, or green-ness... and the PAS definitely improves safety so I guess that passes. Soooo... going from 2.6 litre straight 6 to 4.6 litre V8 feels substantial, but back to the acceptable changes list... Original type parts are no longer available - well you try finding a good straight six reasonably available changes of a type which can be demonstrated to have been made when vehicles of the type were in production or within 10 years of the end of production - LR put the Rover V8 into leaf-sprung 109's (Stage 1 V8) and the 110 (which LR now count everything from 1948 onwards as a "Defender"), and alternative cubic capacities are acceptable, so I guess we can say we're good on that one, officer! Improve efficiency, safety, environmental performance - the 4.6 is more efficient and greener than the old six by a long shot so big win there, just me & Greta Thunberg fighting that good fight The detailed guidance PDF you can download is basically a copy-paste of their highly informative web page, and if you're got questions you end up down the rabbit hole at https://www.fbhvc.co.uk/mot-exemption-information which gives you a list of clubs to contact - ending with nothing newer than the Series 2 club So, as I'm currently self-quarantined with Basingstoke Coronavirus I thought I'd make a nuisance of myself and give the DVLA a call... DVLA said "We don't know, we only do car tax, call the DVSA" OK, I called the DVSA, where a very bored lady read their website out loud to me mispronouncing monocoque spectacularly every time it came up ... when she'd finished, I asked if anyone could provide any guidance at all on substantial changes - she said "no, read the website"... So I asked if anyone there knew who enforced these things or adjudicated on the interpretations, she said "maybe try the DVLA" when I told her they're not interested she said "maybe VOSA?" (VOSA were replaced by the DVSA in 2014 ) So not really sure what to make of all this - I asked the nice lady what happens if I decide my vehicle isn't substantially altered and the police stop me and decide that it is, and I found out it's actually possible to shrug down a telephone Anyone had any luck in any of this - wondering if the local traffic plod or DfT might know or if I should take this as a sign that the authorities really don't care and can't be bothered and I should just declare the 109 to be historic and stop bothering them?
  11. 4 points
    Can't comment on strength upgrades but as far as a locking diff goes I would always prefer one I have total control over - air locker for me. Auto lockers are a misnomer as they are actually auto un-lockers and if they don't unlock they can introduce some interesting handling characteristics. Side slopes spring to mind! Just my 2p. There will be plenty of other opinions along shortly I am sure!
  12. 4 points
    So we've been getting a new plate conveyor installed at work to assist with this the mezzanine floor was covered in about 8 sheets of 8x4 1.5 mm thick steel sheet spoke to project manager as to what they were doing with sheet when they finished just gonna scrap it , can I have it the answer was yes so the picture below is two of the sheets with the rest being flat and on a pallet ready to pick up just need to find room to store it happy days regards Stephen
  13. 4 points
    I recently bought a secondhand Hannibal roof rack. Where the gutter clamps pass back up through the side arms, to be pulled up on their threaded rods, there are M6 grub screws which act against the square section of those rods, just below the threaded part. The previous owner had never used the grub screws because they were tight, stainless into the aluminium. I released five of the six easily with just a little heat on the aluminium but one couldn't be operated as there was a rusty, snapped-off hex in there, flush with the surface of the grub screw. I realised that I couldn't do anything as it's a hard hex metal stuck in a less-hard stainless grub-screw, in a soft aluminium base. So I looked for a spark erosion place. Amazingly, I found one in a hamlet just a few miles away. I've driven past dozens of times over the years and had no idea that it was there. It turns out that in a small building, in pristine cleanliness, there's a one man business that has a whole host of high precision CNC tooling including wire erosion to very close tolerances and he is a very busy man. The guy said he'd have a go and I waited a few weeks for him to have time. The bulkiness of the part meant that the machine's coolant bath had to be opened and he could only use the nozzles to direct coolant onto the piece and this limited the power. However with a lot of effort to clamp an awkward piece, he set it up and sparked through and preserved the thread too. I thought I'd post the two pictures that I have.
  14. 4 points
    Just completed a total of 101 miles today. It takes some time to do this around here as I chose all the little roads to ensure lots of gear changes and varying engine speeds. We’ve driven the length and breadth of the White Peak. Everything seems good. There’s no smoke and the engine feels and sounds fine. I haven’t been too harsh going up the hills and hope these few miles have been a good start. I’m using Millers Running in oil supplied through Turner Engineering and they say change it in no more than 500 miles. I therefore need a couple more day trips! Thank you to everyone for your help, advice and support in what has been a new experience in my vehicle repair and maintenance education. Also for the messages on here and WhatsApp. It’s been great to be directed to do it all correctly. Oh and @monkie I feel your pain. I’ve spent weeks away at a time for work and not being able to do anything else is very frustrating.
  15. 4 points
    You mean me? Nah, feast your eyes on some fluffy kittens instead 😁
  16. 4 points
    Something along the lines of "I did it and didn't set fire to myself"
  17. 3 points
    If nothing else, this is a masterpiece of interactive animations / simulations but it's also a very clear and well-written guide to the basics of gears: https://ciechanow.ski/gears/
  18. 3 points
    Here's the update on the layered image. This time I also included the bearings: Greetings, Joris
  19. 3 points
    I was trying to keep the thread on topic but since you insist... Mum has a pic somewhere of the four alive generations of our dogs all in the same shot. Be a few weeks before they reach maximum cuteness (eyes are still closed and they're basically stimulated feeding and peeing machines at the moment).
  20. 3 points
    Personally I like lockers as they're doing nothing different when you don't need them and they're 100% locked when you want them, no change in behaviour, no extra wear day-to-day. You can lock them before you hit the nasty stuff, you can disengage them any time. A £5 tyre compressor will run them as they don't need any volume of air, just a little pressure - you could even use your spare tyre as an air reservoir. Mine run on engine vacuum so no compressor needed
  21. 3 points
    Yes I feel like a moron! The knob was twisted. And what I thought read as off was actually diff. Opps. 😜 Thanks for being helpful!
  22. 3 points
    Yeah I thought they were Shoguns - imagine the explosion of rust and plastic if three Shoguns hit the deck after getting four foot of air 😃
  23. 3 points
    greetings all - a quick update on this thread.... 1. we are still hating our LC 4,2's 2. replaced 5 rebuilt TD5's in the last 2 seasons and all have failed, they were rebuilt by a "reputable" LR shop in SA. we had been trying to figure out a reliable conversion that was properly engineered and it seems Cummins SA have come up with a solution... so our first "old lady" - is being refitted with a 2,8 cummins that is derated to about 140hp and 360nm, more than the TD5 but not that much more to kills drivetrains, watch this space and I will update you on ow it goes. Cummins South Africa are going about it the right way and doing their homework intensively, they will load test the vehicle once it is complete with both an upgraded cooling pack (radiator and charge cooler) and the standard cooling pack and we are hoping to have the vehicle ready to drive back in Botswana by end April.... transmission is rebuilt Ashcroft R380 with HD bearing and LT230 with the heavy duty option and the ATB. hold thumbs for us that it works out, then we can throw heaps of money at new engines in old ladies....
  24. 3 points
    Personal experience of trying britpart, allmakes and bearmach. Yours is clearly different. I haven't had to send anything back to bearmach. Same cant be said for the others. I would deal with the seller rather than bearmach though so wouldnt experience their customer service anyway.
  25. 3 points
    Well I gave in and visited the post office, so the 109 is now officially an historic vehicle
  26. 3 points
    Finally was able to collect it yesterday, a 240km drive each way in very stormy and wet weather 😁 got it pushed indoors and left as is. So after work today I'll try and get it running. Then, when I have life I'll go through it and ser just how bad the rust is 🙈
  27. 3 points
    Suppose that would eliminate old cable that might be tired. Had an hour again after work. Got a little bit more done.
  28. 3 points
    It's very easy to add a 7 pin socket alongside the nato. The loom from the dash/fusebox pops up in the rear corner as described, and the wires connect to lucas 2/4/6 way connectors. The O/S lights, the short loom to the nearside rear lights/fuel tank and trailer sockets connect to these. You may find that with trailer wiring already some of the lucas connectors are full and you may need a couple of larger ones (think halfords sell em) Just feed the trailer socket wire up into the corner, connect wires as follows: Yellow to green/red Blue to red/yellow White to black (earth) Green to green/white Brown to red/orange Red to green/purple Black to red/black
  29. 3 points
  30. 3 points
    Hi, sorry to preach, maybe to the converted, but it's vital to check the bores are perfectly clean. Wipe with a white kitchen towel, if it shows dirt, clean again. The hone will leave minute pieces of grit, which won't help your engine if left. It's common to scrub with detergent and water, but maybe that wouldn't suit the crank.
  31. 3 points
    Does it handle well ? Like it’s on rails....
  32. 2 points
    Fantastic find. I've been cutting some gears myself lately: Next up are helicals. I needed to cut a lot of spur gears to drive the dividing head from the table feed first, though. Gear tech is a fascinating subject.
  33. 2 points
    For what you're doing Ian a standard diff and some practice will go a long way. I've done some silly things in the past and not managed to break anything but then I have a modicum of mechanical sympathy and I get the impression you do to. I'm with bish and prefer having the option to manually engage when required. I swear I've posted this recently (perhaps over on defender2.net) but I went a slightly different route with my 300Tdi's Salisbury axle. I was lucky enough to live at the time not too far from Nige and popped down to see him. He showed me the main contributor to the Salisbury's "strength" the cross pin in the centre of the diff. If you see this side-by-side with a 2-pin or 4-pin centre from a Rover diff it's (in the words of Nige) feckin massive. If you change the centre out then you're basically throwing away the main benefit of a Salisbury. I don't know how the auto lockers compare but the only significant option for me was an ARB air locker and they have a number of known faults (plastic cages, seals that wear out if you don't use them often enough) as well as not being as strong as the original Salisbury centre. They're also becoming more difficult to source both the diffs and the spares for them - I think Nige has now manufactured a metal version of the plastic carrier and has them in stock. Nige proposed swapping out the rear axle for a P38/Wolf Short Nose variant because then I could utilise Ashcroft's air-locker which is regarded to be one of the best lockers for a Land Rover axle out there. Despite swapping out the rear axle (and giving the Salisbury away to a friend - OK I owed him for a cambelt kit) it still worked out cheaper despite going for an "Ultimate Super-doopa Spec build". Along with the build I put in HD half-shafts and HD drive flanges both from Ashcrofts, which I know moves the weak point (well mine turned out to be the crank shaft !). The Salisbury casing might technically be slightly stronger than a Rover unit but unless you're regularly overloaded (by overloaded I mean several tonnes over) or drive like a loonatic off-road then you've got nothing to worry about. In fact you're probably going to see more of a benefit of swapping to the Rover diff pumpkin because it's not as substantial as the Salisbury unit and you gain some ground clearance that way. I'm running a diff guard on the front after installing the Ashlocker (had one lying around and thought I'd best protect my new toy) but nothing on the rear. I don't (usually) drive like a prat off-road and have never had an issue with clouting things to the point of doing damage. What am I saying in this long winded post? Well swapping the axle out may be an option, it will open up the option of an air-locker or LSD depending on what way you want to go. Equally I think the parts are more readily available (i.e. Ashcrofts) than alternatives for the Salisbury. Having said all that I've never failed in the scenarios you've described with a bog standard Salisbury, but going up to the Highlands stalking out on our land there have definitely been situations where a locker (or three) have been required but that's some stupid terrain. Rather than keeping the vehicle off the road longer and spending time rebuilding it why not just use it and practice? Driver ability goes a lot further than all the tricked out toys. Having said all that having a locker does allow you to creep over obstacles rather than rely on momentum to get you through. To the point it can take some of the fun out of it but you can sit there smug crawling through things people have gone over the handlebars of their quads on (@darthdicky)
  34. 2 points
    Well, this should cheer you up 😂
  35. 2 points
    I picked one up on Thursday and have given it a try. Very pleased with it. I wasn't sure if my small and old compressor would work with it. It is a 20 plus year old Clarke Jumbo which has no air tank, only 0.65hp and 3.5 CFM. The plasma cutter has a 'restricted' (narrow bore) compressor Quick Connector so you can't get much air through it anyway. It works fine. So far I have tried it on 3mm Ali, 1mm steel, 2mm steel and 7 mm steel. Works great. According to the spec's, it should be able to cut 9mm steel. Hope this helps, Regards, Diff.
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    Well , it’s all back together and running fine , heater gets up to toasty pretty quick and stays nice and warm and no leaks so it would appear it’s fixed phew 😁.
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
    I'd say it will still be worth it as the galvanisers will be happier with what you're bringing - and happy folks are more willing to help you out with any bits you've missed etc. If you drag a big pile of crusty junk in they're not going to be well disposed toward you!
  40. 2 points
    Kettles on biscuits out regards Stephen
  41. 2 points
    Ah you lucky, lucky B******;s...….. What i'd give for the pleasant aroma of diesel and burnt EP90 oil with an aromatic hint of ATF!?!...…... But NO!!!...… I have the expensive Au de toilet HORSE PEE with the strong after tones of intense HORSE POO!!! Thanks to the wife and her four legged friend!?! Many a time I've had to sneak out to the shed just to snort a couple of lines of WD40
  42. 2 points
    Keep at it JU.....it will suddenly "click" and you will be a happy clappy!. TIG is one the of the things I am chuffed to bits to have learnt to do.....its amazingly relaxing too ( until it goes wrong:rofl: ) and really is something you'll love to do. Sadly j dont even bother with the MIG now if I can TIG it !.... When I passed mybknsteuctor ....who was brilliant and a hard as nails northerner with evil sense of humour...handed me my certificates and said " here you go Nige .....like when you passed your driving test ....you have a vague clue ....now yoj learn from now on ....and every weld is a chance to improve ". Thouthtvhe was just being a **** at the time...he wasnt... now welded up.today pegged casing 644.....and I have casing 211 on the bench for the rebuild ...I'll show picture of 644...not 211 !. The difference of practise is everything and you will go all nerdy over welding from now on . Keep at it 101% worth the pain and effort.....and anyone thinking of it ....it IS hard but absolutely do learn ....changes your views on welding forever and gives you the ability to bore people senseless checking things like welds on railings at the beach commenting on the undercut...and having a wife look at you sigh and shake head in utter disbelief:D Here you go casing 644 cast steel pre heated and tigged with mild S275 with specula tungsten and dissimilar rods and post heated and cooled... Love tig !!
  43. 2 points
    It is the original 12v feed from the OLD 2.5 TD ignition switch to number 4 glow plug, it is redundant on Tdi engines as they have a glowplug timer relay. just tape up the ring terminal & secure the wire safely out of harms way, & pull the other end off the ignition switch & insulate the terminal.
  44. 2 points
    Finally, we've been allowed an off-topic part of the forum 😛
  45. 2 points
    Just to be clear - you don't have to choose one or another. By tapping into the wires in the location mentioned above, you can have two types of trailer plug fitted at the same time, as I do. Any half decent sparkie could do the job in half an hour. Bound to be cheaper than those expensive adaptors and easier to use too.
  46. 2 points
    I'm using VWP's modular fuse/relay box thing. Mini blades and relays lets you get quite a lot in a small space - 26 fuses (which can be bussed), 10 relays, plus flasher unit / full size relay in their 4-slot housing.
  47. 2 points
    OEM can still be lower quality than genuine - there was a thread on starter motors where it was shown that a Land Rover branded Bosch starter contained more seals than an aftermarket purchased Bosch starter motor. I'm sure someone posted similar about a visit to the shock absorber factory where the manager said the stuff they sell to car manufacturers is made to far higher standards than the after market because the manufacturers have to pass crash tests and give a 100k warranty etc. Likewise GKN make a lot of UJ's that will fit where a genuine Land Rover UJ was but some of them will be of way lower spec because they're not designed for the application even though they fit in the hole. GKN will make you a wheel bearing for your shopping trolley if you ask them. Saying a part suffixed "G" is made by the OEM or whatever is not the same as one made to the right spec in a genuine box, and when someone's selling you a wheel bearing or brake cylinder for a fiver it's time to be suspicious. I have to buy wheel bearings for my Volvo axles from the local bearing shop and it's possible to pay £50-£100 for a single decent quality bearing because they're industrial suppliers whose customers demand reliable parts - so when Britpart sell one for £5 you have to know corners have been cut.
  48. 2 points
    No, won't call you a cynic. Just observant. Over the last year or two, I've watched the law being massively twisted to allow big dollar projects to go ahead in places where the law has been highly restrictive on what ordinary people can do. There was a news headline last week that suggested New Zealand was the least corrupt country in the world. God help the rest of the world! What it all means, though, is that even laws designed to do crucial things, like protecting the environment that has to sustain life, are not immune to being influenced by the very rich (anywhere on earth, as far as I can see). There is a lot of money tied up in car manufacture...
  49. 2 points
    If you have no luck on here, try posting on fullfatrr.com - they are very knowledgeable on L322's. The luddites on here think cart springs are the pinnacle of technology!
  50. 2 points
    I've just emailed a huge order for parts in. Good thing payday is soon!


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