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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/08/2014 in all areas

  1. 17 points
    Hi, some of you might know i got myself a pulse ambulance. Can anyone tell me if the Diffs in the front and rear axles are standard rover 24 spline. I know they are 24 spline but would they just be called "rover" ? Would i just be able to bolt in a TrueTrack destined for a "Rover 24" TA Neill
  2. 15 points
    If anyone has read my posts you will understand that i am new to having a Landy (and loving it) but even though i have a new battery i am finding the starting of engine not great and seems to be taking longer and longer to start. mine has a choke which someone has said is unusable......is this true? i have also been advised to check the glow plugs and change if necessary anyone got any suggestions the correct starting process and mine doesnt have a light on dash like other diesels do.......probably because its an ex-MOD
  3. 15 points
    OK guys, if you have a light stone coloured vehicle what colour is it declared as on your V5? Yellow or beige?
  4. 14 points
    Is it possible to use the clansman FFR antena mount used ont he LWTs origininaly etc with a conventional CB ? so it looks original ihs but use a Cb with it ?
  5. 14 points
    Yes the ambulances are definitely better with a bit of weight in the back to bring the CoG down. With all the fittings stripped out and bare in the back mine was markedly different, less lean, more slide
  6. 13 points
    Hello, 1st post on here as I am hoping someine can help me? I have a widetrack trailer and have started to refurbish it. I have stripped the leaf springs and removed the damaged spring bushes. They are not the same as Series spring buhes. Does anyone know what they are from? They measure 5/8" ID, 1 3/8" OD, 2 11/16" long. Thank you
  7. 13 points
    To add the above, the 101 manual steering box is a bit of a weak point, the ball bearings can corrode or shear and the races pit until they fail and the column unwinds instead of steering, it happened to me! I t was years ago when spares were still obtainable easily. You can machine the column and put proper bearings in but it's a fair bit of work.
  8. 11 points
    Can anyone supply me with the part numbers for the roof bars for a Wolf hard top? Previous post has a picture but need some numbers and the guy who provided the picture does not want to reply for some reason. Any one able to help??? Regards Stu
  9. 11 points
    New guidance for O/T threads and posts, giving a clear picture of what is acceptable. Please read this link - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73660 Thanks
  10. 10 points
    Malcolm Whitbread used a LHD defender style steering box so the input pointed forwards and then a 90 degree bevel box at bottom of column. The 101 relay is larger than a series unit so should survive having power steering through it and adds an element of further damping so should help improve steering box life when offroading. Cutting and vee-ing the chassis isn't a terribly messy way of doing it, rebuilding the top of the rail over the v would add strength back in and might make it a tad neater.
  11. 6 points
    Right now, somewhere in Solihull, somebody in a big flouncy shirt is going into meltdown and shouting "WHY DIDN'T WE THINK OF THAT!!!"
  12. 6 points
    Yesterday my good friend David and I were out playing on a local farm where we able to get permission to enjoy the weather with our Land Rovers. Basically we decided that David can break trails, he drives with 35's year rounds. I drive a lot of miles during the winter so I opt for studded 235's. Even with the 35's it didn't take very long for David to bury the 90. Even though I was following David, I was still plowing snow and as we can see in this picture it was up to my headlights. No chance, David never even saw the ditch and when he felt it, it was too late. Lunch on the trail.
  13. 5 points
    Well it’s taken me a while but finally started putting it back together. No. 4 had a cracking bend in it so I’ve taken the chance to change them all as well as pretty much everything I can well I have access to it. Taking ages, but learning allot and enjoying the process. Thanks for all the help.
  14. 5 points
    Haha. That's because I had to ride the clutch 30 miles in 3rd to get it to Neil's Ralph! It drove home fine on the new clutch (although I do have what looks like an earth issue now but will post about that in a new thread later). We discovered other issues while we were I there too, but I need to speak to the gearbox company before I say more about that! Big thanks to Neil for his help yesterday changing the clutch. There's no way is have got that done by myself in a day on my drive!
  15. 5 points
    Hi, Google is no use here, so what are your views.What are the best uk routes to drive, off and on road in a 4x4? Not the most technical, the most fun/scenic........?
  16. 5 points
    I've a 1993 90 but the hubs don't look like the ones in the manuals, One of the bolts has been damaged and needs replacing before I put it back. Any ideas what hub this is? What partnumber do I need? Thanks!
  17. 4 points
    Hi Everyone Time for a bunch of pics from my refurb and winch install onto my series 3. So i managed to bag a bargain off ebay, and this is how it arrived. So time for a strip down and see what it needed, as its had a hard life on the rear of a recovery truck from what i could find out. It was not in a such a bad shape, worn brushes, and lots of grime and neglect. I started off by ordering new brushes After some prep i had the whole thing painted in Grey, plus some new gaskets and plastic cover from the UK Got the commutator polished and started reassembly. Old VS New brushes. Fully assembled back to its glory Than it was time to start the Fabrication for a new bumper to accommodate the winch. I was lucky enough that the sale of winch had the winch plate included (had it blasted), so i incorporated that into my build. Now i wanted a specific style of bumper which was mounted higher than standard and looked more or less like what i had before ( standardish looking) . So went out and got some RHS........ and started mocking things up. To save on fab time i decided to use my old bumper as a doner for the chassis mounts (easier i thought at that time) and grafted them onto the RHS......... Next a quick check that it looked ok....... So i got some 3mm plate and doubled up the top and bottoms, tieing in the the old bumper mounts, its a lot of welding but the result was pretty pleasing. I then added some gussets at the old bumper mounts to make sure it will not go anywhere Than it was the light bars turn to be fitted, since i always liked the shape it was in, and its been on the vehicle trough the 3 bumpers i thought it was only appropriate that it gets reused. Its than off to the galvanizers for that series look............... So next was vehicle fitting............ i already had an extra X member right at the front at the dumb irons, so i added some more Gussets at the corners. And finally mounting the whole lot back onto the Landy.............. This is where i am the moment, next is wiring the winch up with an aftermarket winch control box. Than time for a new synth rope. Hope you all find it interesting, sorry for the long pic heavy post................ Regards Grem
  18. 4 points
    Well the transfer box replacement hasn't been entirely smooth, Smooth being the operative word. After I changed the box I noticed a vibration between 40 and 50 mph. At first I thought uj but on further investigation I spotted an oscillation on the hand brake drum. Tonight I stripped it out and put a clock on the rear out put flange, sure enough something isn't right. Turns out the output shaft is bent, Lord knows how . Yes you can get the shaft out with the box in the car and no I probably shouldn't of done what I have. I didn't have time to strip the other box and I don't really want to in case this one fails. So out with some vee blocks and the clock, yep it's definitely bent. Of coarse I didn't mark the high spot and put it in my press I wouldn't do that would I . Anyway it's back together now and I'll test drive it on my way to work in the morning. Mike
  19. 4 points
    Had a quick kite at it myself at Goodwood today , all the time listening to some sexy young beards getting horny over it , I think it was the same herd of pretty young things getting wet when it went up the hill , not sure if they appreciated my mumblings although to be fair I was also moaning about the price of the feckin beer at the same time . On a brighter note , the Twisted stand was impressive but not as impressive as the Army lads hoofing around the forest rally track in some standard 90s who took the time to have a natter to my young grandson , hats off to them .
  20. 4 points
    Don't bring material specs & knowledge into this rose tinted bun fight 😂😂😂
  21. 4 points
    Thought this was an interesting article with some great photos, and a good take on why we love our LR's despite their flaws... https://jalopnik.com/land-rover-and-mercedes-the-king-and-queen-of-the-saha-1831555271
  22. 4 points
    In my experience most people who have a new vehicle take it back to the dealer for servicing, makes warranty claims easier and there is a perceived quality because of the flashy showroom and high price. My experience of a lot of the dealers across all makes I've owned is that they are swollen organisations with poor communication even between people in the same building, their customer service attitude tends to be to deflect the problem and convince the customer that it's because they're dumb and not mechanics rather than actually looking to investigate a fault. They train and employ parts fitters and will only do what the computer tells them and will not actually look for a fault because they only have one tech trained highly enough to do it who, even if he had the time to work on cars, neither they nor the customer would be willing to stand the exorbitant hourly rate they charge. Many are company cars or lease vehicles and the dealers well know that the lease companies are looking for minimum bills and don't care who long the car will last after they've sent it to auction. An example is VW who have a long and short service plan, if it's a private buyer the service interval might be set at 10,000 miles, if it's a company it might be set at 25,000 miles - for the same vehicle?! However the car usually survives the up to 5 years that that owner has it. The second owner takes it where ever is cheapest, doesn't research when things like the cambelt are due as they assume if they ask a back street garage that sees dozens of different makes to service it they will just know what needs doing. They don't realise that if you ask a back street garage to service it they will change the oil and filters, kick the brakes and give it back. These garages can be really good or really poor. I know one that won't take a shield off the bottom of an engine, they drill holes to get at what they need to, wipe spark plugs to make them look new etc etc and another that has fixed things for me that a main dealer couldn't. After a few years start getting a few problems that need money throwing at it so they just chop it in and slag it off to anyone that will listen. I've had a lot of fiats in the past which were always cheap cars compared to the competition, this tends to be the fault with them, people buy them because they're cheap, won't spend money on them because they're cheap and slag them off when they go wrong. I think another good example is air suspension, how many people say the pump burn't out so I put another one on and that burn't out so I converted it to coils. But never look for leaks etc The next owner tends to go one of two ways, they're either a bodger who buys it cheap, runs it into the ground or does home fixes with wood screws and tinfoil or they're an enthusiast who takes the time to understand it and maintain it above and beyond. I think this is where the land rovers have done well in the past as they have a huge following of enthusiasts who enjoy looking after them. Their current range are to help their margins on selling new vehicles which you can't blame them for as that's kind of important to them, but the question will be can the enthusiasts get what they want out of the current vehicle range and keep up with the technology requirements to keep them going? I read the land rover manual for the EFI on my old range rover and I understood what it did and why it did it so I was able to diagnose faults. I had to call VW assist to my Amarok a few weeks ago. It had gone into limp home mode. Basically when the soot in the DPF gets to a certain level it's supposed to go a regen, for which you have to have over 20l of fuel, the engine has to be upto a certain temperature and you have to drive over a certain speed for a certain amount of time. If these conditions haven't been met and the level of soot gets to a second trigger point it comes up with a warning on the dash telling you to go for a drive that does meet those conditions. However there is a fault in the software where that second warning doesn't always come on, then it goes to limp home and VW have to do it manually. VW (and probably the third party that write the code) know about the issue but haven't been able to find the fault and fix it yet. If they can't do it what hope would I have in 10 years time? I think when it comes to Jeep you have to give them a certain amount of credit. They make for their home market which is huge, and if you include south America enormous! OK Fiat / Chrysler are trading off the brand reputation with some of the softer models but what's different with America over the UK is that a lot of those vehicles will go off road regularly. Even if that's just unmade roads it's still a lot of vibration and dust that most Land Rovers will never see in their life. Well, apart from the potholes. That was my lunch break wasted...
  23. 4 points
    Good news. Thanks to your replies, I hammered on a snug fitting 24mm Halfords Advanced socket. All went well and with a little more penetration fluid and some pushing and pulling on the breaker bar, it came off. Wondering if I would need another socket, I forced a bolt into the nut, clamped it tight in a vice and hammered it free. Socket looks servcable! Result! Thanks for all the replies and so glad I didn’t need to get to welding near the alloy wheel. Neil
  24. 4 points
    Agree with Steve and Lewis. Avatars are a foundation of internet communities
  25. 4 points
    Just thinking about the explosion, and if you are far enough away in Didcot? Please change it, carefully, as I'm visiting Oxfordshire next weekend. G.
  26. 3 points
    I feel it's one of my special skills, however I think this is cause by the vast amount of waiting we are doing in anticipation of the new defender. It's like an automotive brexit
  27. 3 points
    Started on a rebuild of my 24 year old 200Tdi engine, didn't find any major issues during the strip down, all the big end bearings were down to the bronze, Main bearings had some white metal facings remaining, crank some slight scores on No 1 main, all the others ok, on closer inspection of the original std size pistons 1,2,3 were found with a semi circular crack on the right side face [camshaft side] just below the oil control rings [will add a photo later] this is the first time the crank/pistons/rods have be disturbed since the engine was built by LR [it was a 200tdi repower kit, I bought brand new in 1994 to replace the dead TD engine] bought a lot of new parts from https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/200-tdi-c102x3005710?PGFLngID=1 10 thou undersize main & big ends,small ends,20thou oversize pistons, new cam & bearings, new followers, valves & springs, rocker shaft & rockers, head bolt set, oil pump overhaul kit, top & bottom gasket kits, timing belt & tensioner. had a local engine machine place http://www.westcornwallengineservices.co.uk/ do the machining work, for a lot less than I expected, the work consisted of head skim, valve seats recut, valve guides had no wear, rebore/hone out to 20 thou oversize, crank regrind to 10 thou undersize all mains/big ends, small end bearings replaced. so far on the build up, new valves lapped in & fully fitted, rockers & shaft built up waiting fitting,piston/rods 1,2,3 are in, found a busted oil control ring on 4th new piston when unpacking it, have been in message mode with Turners, a new set of rings due here tomorrow [Tues 31/10], not long finished repainting the block nice gold colour VHT spray paint from https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/ via their ebay shop, next stage is PAS/Alternator bracket painted, all bolts,engine mount brackets cleaned, just need the new piston ring set tomorrow, then fit No4 piston/conrod,ladder frame,oil pump, sump & close up the crankcase, fit the cam followers,cover plates, vacuum pump,engine mount brackets, timing case rear housing, remove engine from the stand & fit flywheel housing & flywheel/clutch. also ordered one of Nige's magnetic sump plugs, waiting on delivery. & get block back into my 110. some photo's below, I'll add updates as I progress.
  28. 3 points
    Stop running it on vegetable oil then it won't feel any different running on diesel 😆 Mo
  29. 3 points
    I think you younger types will find that there's nothing wrong with a soft knob in an off road vehicle or maybe the home environment as larger harder knobs often lead to unfortunate and unforeseen accidents
  30. 3 points
    Totally agree, i was just looking at the body actually will makes some efforts to remove the layers of bronze green, then she'll get rubbed down and painted olive or olive and black there's a few dents here and there I'll be straightening out to square her up a bit but thats about it, the rear tub inside will need the most work. In other news i just got her running. New plugs leads and distributor and she fired up on the first turn, well chuffed, and coincidently I'm no longer a series truck driver virgin, took it for a spin to check the transmission, all good except stopping is interesting with only one wheel... great fun Now I get why peoples like series trucks 😁
  31. 3 points
  32. 3 points
    Hang on, from the other thread... if the new Defender is anything but a 200TDi and costs more than a Ford Fiesta people are going to be outraged and deride it as a flimsy lifestyle bauble, , yet a 70k all-electric thing is now cool?
  33. 3 points
    Chuffed there's a Denbigh in the Brooklands museum, thanks man! They're not kidding around either because it's wired to the wall. Seems to be missing it's spindle front cover but otherwise really original. The wobbly wire cage dates it between '57 and '75 I think. So is @Escape 's JPS can the one standing on the foot? Giz a look! The welder thing ran up to the holidays but just before end of business I made contact with our ESAB agent here who was very helpful and has contacted ESAB HQ directly on my behalf. I haven't heard back yet. Tomorrow I'll be starting the chase again. The welder campaign climbed to $1600, which is amazing and thanks a million it's very exciting, and after Go Fund Me fees, money transfer and exchange rates that's roughly €900. I'll put in the ton to get it to €1k and hopefully that's enough to offer a company for a cost price machine that retails for a higher value sso I can get something really nice. The MIG & AC/DC TIG machines are at least twice that and I'd love one, but failing that maybe I can do a deal for a separate MIG and lesser TIG machine. I really want to start to learn to TIG weld, not least because I'd like to fab my own alu fuel tanks for the Esprit. I've also been in talks with a major car restoration hardware provider who asked me to make a wish list, on that list is a bead roller and panel pins and dimple dies and a decent hammer set. Here's hoping.
  34. 3 points
    All the time and effort (not to say Money) i`ve put in to the landy it would be a shame to give up. finding Another one for a good price is hard here in sweden Although this one was pretty annoying and frustrating at times. On top of that i Always find it rather annoying when you are searching on the forums for a solution t problem and you find something very simular but without a solution or instruction what has been done or resolved the problem. So decided to write a summery to help and make it easier for other enthusiast. Glad you guys like it
  35. 3 points
    Me too and like any sensible mortal will reserve judgement whether or not to buy if and when they eventually start rolling off the production line. Of course a big deciding factor will be whether fellow owners will wave at each other like the old days ...no really
  36. 3 points
    Traction control only goes so far. There are many situations where it can be beaten and mechanical locking and/or more even ground pressures are needed. It is very common to get the modern Land Rovers stuck or unable to proceed due to the reliance on TC where even unlocked traditional vehicle that have better wheel travel can get through.
  37. 3 points
    What to look for...? A Shogun Ah, is that my coat? Thank you
  38. 3 points
    Just started watching these over t'weekend and I have to say so far they're cracking, top job. If nothing else it's a welcome change from Car SOS's painful mugging-about-for-the-telly, internet hipsters with no substance, forced/false TV jeopardy, or the American "everyone-must-have-a-shouting-match-before-every-commercial-break" formula.
  39. 3 points
    Well if there’s one thing that’s persuading me more and more to get a heater in the 110, it was sleeping out in -4 at the weekend. Not too bad in the truck under the duvet but the heater would have made it more enjoyable. just a few from camp.......
  40. 3 points
    Shame no cats were inconvenienced in the invention process or it could've been the Tabby-Lock
  41. 3 points
    No no no no its just too long ! The best place for anything that long is in a canal. 😆 Mo
  42. 3 points
    Well, paypal initially declined the request - they said I was outside of the 30 day limit and I should contact the vendor. I pointed out the irony of this given that the reason it was so late was because the vendor had not bothered to reply. I also pointed out that it was in fact 29 days and not 30. They then refunded me my postage. I do think that this does not then get taken from Island4x4 unfortunately. I then sent Island4x4 an email. Copied below for your amusement. I doubt they will read it. Dear Sam/Island 4x4, I have lost count of the number of times I have emailed and tried to ring you about the refund for my postage for the item above. I have now asked paypal to pursue this for me. I am assuming, because of the complete lack of response, that you were not going to bother refunding the postage, but simply didn’t have the courtesy to tell me. You have had the returned item for what must be 5+ weeks now. I am shocked that any company can behave in this way towards its customers. If you look back at my sales history with you, you will see that I have spent a reasonable amount with Island4x4 this year - that trade will now be going elsewhere. I have a number of friends in the land rover world and when the topic of where to buy parts from comes up I will make them aware of the difficulties in resolving problems with your company due to your inability to respond to simple queries. I would suggest that for future customers you resolve this issue because whilst your prices are competitive, your after sales service is appalling. Richard
  43. 3 points
  44. 3 points
    While accepting that the most likely cause of 'slow to respond' is a worn out compressor (I agree they can be overhauled. Compared to most jobs you do on a Land Rover it's a bit fiddly, take a patience pill before you start). BUT, unless you do something about the suspension airbags the compressor will still struggle to respond, and will quickly wear out again. Look closely at the inflated airbags, both at standard height and at full height. You are looking for 'surface crazing', especially where they roll over. If you see it, even though you cannot detect any leaks through the crazed area, then start (more) reading, this time on replacing the suspension airbags. For obvious reasons, second hand units from a breaker are false economy. In my view, it's likely that the suspension problems have come to light because you have used the off-road settings. I suspect many users don't use the control. As for Scotland, if you can get one Schrader valve in the supply to the reservoir tank, then that is your 'get out of jail' card, although it will help to carry a decent tyre inflater pump as well. BTW, if you are using 'suspension on off-road setting' to enable access for working on the car, please do put a couple of chassis stands under the chassis rails before you start work. We don't want the next post from your account to be from your wife asking how can she raise the vehicle to extract your body!! Good Luck, and enjoy.
  45. 3 points
    Well on with putting Richards chassis onto my sons 1997 110 and thought you may like to see what it was like under the cross member !! I have rechassised both my older 200 tdi's but they weren't tis bad at that point. New chassis painted and ready for engine etc
  46. 3 points
  47. 3 points
    If you have to leave it with weight on the tyres, I'd pump them up hard - 50-60PSI dependant on the max on the side of the tyre. If you can get someone to move it round regularly so that the same bit isn't always at the bottom of each tyre that'd help prevent flatspots too.. Ideally I'd put axle stands underneath the axles so there's no weight on the tyres, and cover the tyres with something to prevent UV damage..
  48. 3 points
    Ferodo* May help your searches
  49. 3 points
    Morning gents, Please bear with me on this post as I’ll try and provide as much information as I can think of. If you have suggestions or are able to help, let me know - any assistance would be much appreciated as I’ve been struggling with finishing this build off for an embarassingly silly amount of time… Engine is a 4.6 V8 with tophat liners. Fully rebuilt and Megasquirt installed (in 2013, ahem…) MS-1 v3, 029v. Loaded with Nigels 4600 Base Program. Injectors are new Bosch 0280155900. Supposed to be a good solution and used by Ford in 4litre, 6 cylinder engines. Req Fuel is 19.4 (4600 displacement, 8 cyl, Injector Flow 200, AFR 14.7) Plugs are NGK BPR6ES Lambda Sensor is a Fuel Parts 86400 narrow band, 4 wire Zirconia. (From Nige, with the kit). Timing has a trim angle of 5 degrees. I checked TDC with a hose connected to an old plug shell, run into a bottle of oil so I’m confident it is correct. Then figured out the trim requirements following Fridges recent response in another post. Throttle Position low is 12, high is 208. PWM valve is a Bosch unit. Leads are ex-Nige Magnecor variety. I subscribed to TunerStudio at the start because I'm not very confident with this type of stuff and wanted to develop a familiarity with the programme I wanted to use long term. This seemed to be the favourite, so I went with it. Over recent months I’ve changed plugs, leads, injectors, Lambda sensor etc. but just cannot get it to run properly... It starts fine, ticks over okay. Warms up and drives but the O2 sensor goes out of range therefore it won’t autotune. Tonight, ticking over, the O2 was at 1.4V but as soon as I take it down the road it climbs to 4.5v… When I take the plugs out they are black so seems to be running rich… I took the photo below to show the typical gauges when stationary. From there, the O2 only get worse when it is running..
  50. 3 points
    I'm a big TG fan, and love it not as a motor review program (I find that ilk such as 5th Gear boring) but as a bunch of lads doing fun things that you can't do yourself. I love its political incorrectness, in an overly PC world. Let's face it the new BBC offering will be dire, and i won't be watching. I want to see those 3 guys that i have come to love, doing what they do.


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