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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/08/2014 in all areas

  1. 17 points
    Hi, some of you might know i got myself a pulse ambulance. Can anyone tell me if the Diffs in the front and rear axles are standard rover 24 spline. I know they are 24 spline but would they just be called "rover" ? Would i just be able to bolt in a TrueTrack destined for a "Rover 24" TA Neill
  2. 15 points
    If anyone has read my posts you will understand that i am new to having a Landy (and loving it) but even though i have a new battery i am finding the starting of engine not great and seems to be taking longer and longer to start. mine has a choke which someone has said is unusable......is this true? i have also been advised to check the glow plugs and change if necessary anyone got any suggestions the correct starting process and mine doesnt have a light on dash like other diesels do.......probably because its an ex-MOD
  3. 15 points
    OK guys, if you have a light stone coloured vehicle what colour is it declared as on your V5? Yellow or beige?
  4. 14 points
    Is it possible to use the clansman FFR antena mount used ont he LWTs origininaly etc with a conventional CB ? so it looks original ihs but use a Cb with it ?
  5. 14 points
    Yes the ambulances are definitely better with a bit of weight in the back to bring the CoG down. With all the fittings stripped out and bare in the back mine was markedly different, less lean, more slide
  6. 13 points
    Hello, 1st post on here as I am hoping someine can help me? I have a widetrack trailer and have started to refurbish it. I have stripped the leaf springs and removed the damaged spring bushes. They are not the same as Series spring buhes. Does anyone know what they are from? They measure 5/8" ID, 1 3/8" OD, 2 11/16" long. Thank you
  7. 13 points
    To add the above, the 101 manual steering box is a bit of a weak point, the ball bearings can corrode or shear and the races pit until they fail and the column unwinds instead of steering, it happened to me! I t was years ago when spares were still obtainable easily. You can machine the column and put proper bearings in but it's a fair bit of work.
  8. 11 points
    Can anyone supply me with the part numbers for the roof bars for a Wolf hard top? Previous post has a picture but need some numbers and the guy who provided the picture does not want to reply for some reason. Any one able to help??? Regards Stu
  9. 11 points
    New guidance for O/T threads and posts, giving a clear picture of what is acceptable. Please read this link - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73660 Thanks
  10. 10 points
    Malcolm Whitbread used a LHD defender style steering box so the input pointed forwards and then a 90 degree bevel box at bottom of column. The 101 relay is larger than a series unit so should survive having power steering through it and adds an element of further damping so should help improve steering box life when offroading. Cutting and vee-ing the chassis isn't a terribly messy way of doing it, rebuilding the top of the rail over the v would add strength back in and might make it a tad neater.
  11. 6 points
  12. 6 points
    I still don't understand the bitching about it being based on a Disco platform, given the "original" was effectively a Series body on a RR/Disco chassis... I mean how very dare they do exactly the same thing again, it's against tradition! Um... Anyway, I kinda like it.
  13. 6 points
    Right now, somewhere in Solihull, somebody in a big flouncy shirt is going into meltdown and shouting "WHY DIDN'T WE THINK OF THAT!!!"
  14. 6 points
    Yesterday my good friend David and I were out playing on a local farm where we able to get permission to enjoy the weather with our Land Rovers. Basically we decided that David can break trails, he drives with 35's year rounds. I drive a lot of miles during the winter so I opt for studded 235's. Even with the 35's it didn't take very long for David to bury the 90. Even though I was following David, I was still plowing snow and as we can see in this picture it was up to my headlights. No chance, David never even saw the ditch and when he felt it, it was too late. Lunch on the trail.
  15. 5 points
    A little more progress this weekend sees the front suspension back together and the front callipers assembled with pads and new pins. I have also put a couple of coats of paint on the fuel tank and steering box I then thought I would remove the loom from the old chassis. Cue some swearing and I was puzzled why it was stuck. I cut the top off a section of chassis and found the cause When I fitted the rear crossmember a few years ago I threaded the loom through a tennis ball to prevent it getting damaged from the welding. It worked perfectly by the looks of it. Just totally forgot I did that.
  16. 5 points
    Retroanaconda, yesterday.
  17. 5 points
    Well it’s taken me a while but finally started putting it back together. No. 4 had a cracking bend in it so I’ve taken the chance to change them all as well as pretty much everything I can well I have access to it. Taking ages, but learning allot and enjoying the process. Thanks for all the help.
  18. 5 points
    Haha. That's because I had to ride the clutch 30 miles in 3rd to get it to Neil's Ralph! It drove home fine on the new clutch (although I do have what looks like an earth issue now but will post about that in a new thread later). We discovered other issues while we were I there too, but I need to speak to the gearbox company before I say more about that! Big thanks to Neil for his help yesterday changing the clutch. There's no way is have got that done by myself in a day on my drive!
  19. 5 points
    Hi, Google is no use here, so what are your views.What are the best uk routes to drive, off and on road in a 4x4? Not the most technical, the most fun/scenic........?
  20. 5 points
    I've a 1993 90 but the hubs don't look like the ones in the manuals, One of the bolts has been damaged and needs replacing before I put it back. Any ideas what hub this is? What partnumber do I need? Thanks!
  21. 4 points
    Oooh, I can't resist this as its a new one on me. I have seen "superchargers" that run from your 12v cigarette lighter socket before, but this "supercharger" is spun by the flow of incoming air. This blockage in your induction system can also save you on fuel apparently..... Hang on, I get it now. It leaves the 12v lighter socket free to plug in your LED/capacitor fuel saver. Genius.
  22. 4 points
    Ok, I'l bite.. I finished the mockup of the adapter plate: I am trying to marry a VW 1.9 TDI engine to the Mahindra gearbox. It takes some doing before they say 'i do'. To make it as easy as possible, I started with a longitudinal mounted version of this engine, from a Passat, as this has the starter motor on the engine side, as well as more favourable engine mounts, a vacuum pump at the side of the engine, rather than at the back, and an engine mounted viscous Fan. At the heart of this is a Valeo solid flywheel conversion kit for a 130 HP TDI. The 130 HP engine has a larger diameter clutch, and this clamps the Jeep friction plate perfectly: I don'e have much in the way of machining equipment, but I do have CAD. I also found a factory drawing with mounting pattern dimensions for the VW TDI, as well as a Factory drawing for the mounting pattern of the Peugeot Indenor engine that normally lives in the Mahindra. This gave me the bolt pattern for the gearbox. On CAD, marying this up ended up looking like this: The good thing is that this will be acurate by design, and Via a waterjet cutter, I can get the adaptor plate cut from CAD. But first the plywood adapter To this can the Mahindra bell house now be fitted: So this is where I am now. next is dropping this lot in the chassis and see what obstacles we find next. It takes a while though.. Thanks for looking! Daan
  23. 4 points
    Hi gents! Sorry been neglectful. Yep you said it, been out enjoying myself. The Vogue has done about 2k in six weeks or so. My god it's thirsty, it's very much out of it's time. I mean back when a gallon of juice was £3 it would have been manageable, but now... pfft it's scary. I've been busy in the background and normal service will resume from here. Kind of ;). Don't sweat about channel momentum, I really like where it's at in terms of having a small but loyal following, sure it needs to be bigger to make life smoother for me but that'll come. I've realised I need more of my own time, to be healthy. I mean work/life balance, so the learning curve is still in effect. Hope the full RR feature floats a few boats. I still get enthralled by it despite having watched it a lot of times, there's a big element of 'did I actually do that?'
  24. 4 points
    Hi Everyone Time for a bunch of pics from my refurb and winch install onto my series 3. So i managed to bag a bargain off ebay, and this is how it arrived. So time for a strip down and see what it needed, as its had a hard life on the rear of a recovery truck from what i could find out. It was not in a such a bad shape, worn brushes, and lots of grime and neglect. I started off by ordering new brushes After some prep i had the whole thing painted in Grey, plus some new gaskets and plastic cover from the UK Got the commutator polished and started reassembly. Old VS New brushes. Fully assembled back to its glory Than it was time to start the Fabrication for a new bumper to accommodate the winch. I was lucky enough that the sale of winch had the winch plate included (had it blasted), so i incorporated that into my build. Now i wanted a specific style of bumper which was mounted higher than standard and looked more or less like what i had before ( standardish looking) . So went out and got some RHS........ and started mocking things up. To save on fab time i decided to use my old bumper as a doner for the chassis mounts (easier i thought at that time) and grafted them onto the RHS......... Next a quick check that it looked ok....... So i got some 3mm plate and doubled up the top and bottoms, tieing in the the old bumper mounts, its a lot of welding but the result was pretty pleasing. I then added some gussets at the old bumper mounts to make sure it will not go anywhere Than it was the light bars turn to be fitted, since i always liked the shape it was in, and its been on the vehicle trough the 3 bumpers i thought it was only appropriate that it gets reused. Its than off to the galvanizers for that series look............... So next was vehicle fitting............ i already had an extra X member right at the front at the dumb irons, so i added some more Gussets at the corners. And finally mounting the whole lot back onto the Landy.............. This is where i am the moment, next is wiring the winch up with an aftermarket winch control box. Than time for a new synth rope. Hope you all find it interesting, sorry for the long pic heavy post................ Regards Grem
  25. 4 points
    Well the transfer box replacement hasn't been entirely smooth, Smooth being the operative word. After I changed the box I noticed a vibration between 40 and 50 mph. At first I thought uj but on further investigation I spotted an oscillation on the hand brake drum. Tonight I stripped it out and put a clock on the rear out put flange, sure enough something isn't right. Turns out the output shaft is bent, Lord knows how . Yes you can get the shaft out with the box in the car and no I probably shouldn't of done what I have. I didn't have time to strip the other box and I don't really want to in case this one fails. So out with some vee blocks and the clock, yep it's definitely bent. Of coarse I didn't mark the high spot and put it in my press I wouldn't do that would I . Anyway it's back together now and I'll test drive it on my way to work in the morning. Mike
  26. 4 points
    Had a quick kite at it myself at Goodwood today , all the time listening to some sexy young beards getting horny over it , I think it was the same herd of pretty young things getting wet when it went up the hill , not sure if they appreciated my mumblings although to be fair I was also moaning about the price of the feckin beer at the same time . On a brighter note , the Twisted stand was impressive but not as impressive as the Army lads hoofing around the forest rally track in some standard 90s who took the time to have a natter to my young grandson , hats off to them .
  27. 4 points
    Don't bring material specs & knowledge into this rose tinted bun fight 😂😂😂
  28. 4 points
    Thought this was an interesting article with some great photos, and a good take on why we love our LR's despite their flaws... https://jalopnik.com/land-rover-and-mercedes-the-king-and-queen-of-the-saha-1831555271
  29. 4 points
    In my experience most people who have a new vehicle take it back to the dealer for servicing, makes warranty claims easier and there is a perceived quality because of the flashy showroom and high price. My experience of a lot of the dealers across all makes I've owned is that they are swollen organisations with poor communication even between people in the same building, their customer service attitude tends to be to deflect the problem and convince the customer that it's because they're dumb and not mechanics rather than actually looking to investigate a fault. They train and employ parts fitters and will only do what the computer tells them and will not actually look for a fault because they only have one tech trained highly enough to do it who, even if he had the time to work on cars, neither they nor the customer would be willing to stand the exorbitant hourly rate they charge. Many are company cars or lease vehicles and the dealers well know that the lease companies are looking for minimum bills and don't care who long the car will last after they've sent it to auction. An example is VW who have a long and short service plan, if it's a private buyer the service interval might be set at 10,000 miles, if it's a company it might be set at 25,000 miles - for the same vehicle?! However the car usually survives the up to 5 years that that owner has it. The second owner takes it where ever is cheapest, doesn't research when things like the cambelt are due as they assume if they ask a back street garage that sees dozens of different makes to service it they will just know what needs doing. They don't realise that if you ask a back street garage to service it they will change the oil and filters, kick the brakes and give it back. These garages can be really good or really poor. I know one that won't take a shield off the bottom of an engine, they drill holes to get at what they need to, wipe spark plugs to make them look new etc etc and another that has fixed things for me that a main dealer couldn't. After a few years start getting a few problems that need money throwing at it so they just chop it in and slag it off to anyone that will listen. I've had a lot of fiats in the past which were always cheap cars compared to the competition, this tends to be the fault with them, people buy them because they're cheap, won't spend money on them because they're cheap and slag them off when they go wrong. I think another good example is air suspension, how many people say the pump burn't out so I put another one on and that burn't out so I converted it to coils. But never look for leaks etc The next owner tends to go one of two ways, they're either a bodger who buys it cheap, runs it into the ground or does home fixes with wood screws and tinfoil or they're an enthusiast who takes the time to understand it and maintain it above and beyond. I think this is where the land rovers have done well in the past as they have a huge following of enthusiasts who enjoy looking after them. Their current range are to help their margins on selling new vehicles which you can't blame them for as that's kind of important to them, but the question will be can the enthusiasts get what they want out of the current vehicle range and keep up with the technology requirements to keep them going? I read the land rover manual for the EFI on my old range rover and I understood what it did and why it did it so I was able to diagnose faults. I had to call VW assist to my Amarok a few weeks ago. It had gone into limp home mode. Basically when the soot in the DPF gets to a certain level it's supposed to go a regen, for which you have to have over 20l of fuel, the engine has to be upto a certain temperature and you have to drive over a certain speed for a certain amount of time. If these conditions haven't been met and the level of soot gets to a second trigger point it comes up with a warning on the dash telling you to go for a drive that does meet those conditions. However there is a fault in the software where that second warning doesn't always come on, then it goes to limp home and VW have to do it manually. VW (and probably the third party that write the code) know about the issue but haven't been able to find the fault and fix it yet. If they can't do it what hope would I have in 10 years time? I think when it comes to Jeep you have to give them a certain amount of credit. They make for their home market which is huge, and if you include south America enormous! OK Fiat / Chrysler are trading off the brand reputation with some of the softer models but what's different with America over the UK is that a lot of those vehicles will go off road regularly. Even if that's just unmade roads it's still a lot of vibration and dust that most Land Rovers will never see in their life. Well, apart from the potholes. That was my lunch break wasted...
  30. 4 points
    Good news. Thanks to your replies, I hammered on a snug fitting 24mm Halfords Advanced socket. All went well and with a little more penetration fluid and some pushing and pulling on the breaker bar, it came off. Wondering if I would need another socket, I forced a bolt into the nut, clamped it tight in a vice and hammered it free. Socket looks servcable! Result! Thanks for all the replies and so glad I didn’t need to get to welding near the alloy wheel. Neil
  31. 4 points
    Agree with Steve and Lewis. Avatars are a foundation of internet communities
  32. 4 points
    Just thinking about the explosion, and if you are far enough away in Didcot? Please change it, carefully, as I'm visiting Oxfordshire next weekend. G.
  33. 3 points
    Naks, for all the faults of the old (real) Defenders, chassis stiffness was not one. Given how your past garage stuffed your rear diff and appeared to have bent an axle (if I understood other comments correctly you had a bent axle that you attributed to LR, but I doubt they sent it out like that), do you not think that any chassis sag or buckling your vehicle may have had in their care was not because of a design issue but because they dropped it off a lift, likely buckling that axle at the same time?
  34. 3 points
    I suspect that is rather unfair to the Td5, it passed all of the MoD durability tests and is based on the proven L-Series architecture. It has a few issues, but no more so than almost any other modern engine from other car makers IMO. In return you get a lot more power and torque, lot more tuning ability and a much more refined engine. There are also plenty in daily service still and lots of high mileage ones.
  35. 3 points
    haha im not that nuts! have being considering getting it mapped though. my new issue was similar to my old issue. i miscalculated when i did the beavertail and ended up cutting too much out, so the angle (of about 5*!) is still too much for the near zero groundclearence my racecar has. this wasn't particularly surprising, and it was always on the cars that this could happen. i got the tape measure out and discovered all my work making the folding sections of the ramp where pointless. there is near zero rampover angle without them, so they have been retired. they have instead been repurposed and now look like this to be honest i always expected to have to do this. the professionals always have the ramp heading uphill to just behind the cab. whilst this was a option, it would have meant 20x the work, and this works fine. these are a 30second removal deal, so when (if) theyre in the way they can easily be pulled out. NOW its finished!
  36. 3 points
    I found a problem with the tdi offroad and what was much better with the v8 was the acceleration. By this I don't mean the 0-60 I mean you come to the bottom of a steep hill going over rough terrain at a walking pace and you want to get a bit of speed to the wheels to get up the hill. The v8, despite having poor bhp per cc and litre of fuel, gave you power across the whole rev range and you could get a bit of momentum quite quickly by being in a longish gear. The TDi had to be on the turbo to get that push and the available rev range between turbo coming in and running out of revs was quite narrow, you couldn't change gear on the hill and would often fail due to either lack of wheel speed due to too low gear or losing power due to revs dropping off the bottom of the turbo due to too high gear. I find this is the same with modern downsized engines. The 2 litre may well have 200bhp on paper but the power band is so narrow it's lost its driveability. That's why they are going for the 10 gear quick shift automatics, to try to give it enough ratios to use the narrow power band when accelerating and keep the revs as low as possible for economy when driving. Due to this I don't find you can take any notice of quoted max power in car adverts, you have to drive the thing to see how well it's setup.
  37. 3 points
    Quite a while back on one of my mog axle posts somebody said the above title so here goes Started a project this weekend that I have been considering for a while elements of this are often carried by landrovers in the country ie game keepers but ultimately putting fabrication skills to the test Mods if you are not happy please remove and accept my apologies for posting So the project is to make a standard shotgun lamp Some of the bits cut pieces shaped shaping finished welding up and blending All put together and where I'm at now Going to fab a cartridge belt as part of the stand then buy a suitable lamp shade to finish hope to be complete by the end of next weekend Regards Stephen
  38. 3 points
    I feel it's one of my special skills, however I think this is cause by the vast amount of waiting we are doing in anticipation of the new defender. It's like an automotive brexit
  39. 3 points
    Stop running it on vegetable oil then it won't feel any different running on diesel 😆 Mo
  40. 3 points
    I think you younger types will find that there's nothing wrong with a soft knob in an off road vehicle or maybe the home environment as larger harder knobs often lead to unfortunate and unforeseen accidents
  41. 3 points
    These days there's no such thing as a cheap Defender - an old Disco or RR is as capable and half the price, but you'd better own a set of spanners and a sense of humour. And probably a welder.
  42. 3 points
    "Mirror, mirror on the wall" Sitting as far inboards as you do in this, its impossible to see anything just by turning your head (also the top of the seats are pretty wide, blocking the view) So I had hoped that a single mirror in the center would be enough. BUT some jerk has placed the spare-wheel right smack in the middle just because he thought it looked 'Racey' Alas, some more mirrors were required, and I do think it turned out alright, pretty well hidden away and quite protected. Time will tell if it works out: Barely noticeable from the front: And finally the view from the drivers seat:
  43. 3 points
    Well if there’s one thing that’s persuading me more and more to get a heater in the 110, it was sleeping out in -4 at the weekend. Not too bad in the truck under the duvet but the heater would have made it more enjoyable. just a few from camp.......
  44. 3 points
    Shame no cats were inconvenienced in the invention process or it could've been the Tabby-Lock
  45. 3 points
    No no no no its just too long ! The best place for anything that long is in a canal. 😆 Mo
  46. 3 points
  47. 3 points
    Well on with putting Richards chassis onto my sons 1997 110 and thought you may like to see what it was like under the cross member !! I have rechassised both my older 200 tdi's but they weren't tis bad at that point. New chassis painted and ready for engine etc
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
    Ferodo* May help your searches
  50. 3 points
    Morning gents, Please bear with me on this post as I’ll try and provide as much information as I can think of. If you have suggestions or are able to help, let me know - any assistance would be much appreciated as I’ve been struggling with finishing this build off for an embarassingly silly amount of time… Engine is a 4.6 V8 with tophat liners. Fully rebuilt and Megasquirt installed (in 2013, ahem…) MS-1 v3, 029v. Loaded with Nigels 4600 Base Program. Injectors are new Bosch 0280155900. Supposed to be a good solution and used by Ford in 4litre, 6 cylinder engines. Req Fuel is 19.4 (4600 displacement, 8 cyl, Injector Flow 200, AFR 14.7) Plugs are NGK BPR6ES Lambda Sensor is a Fuel Parts 86400 narrow band, 4 wire Zirconia. (From Nige, with the kit). Timing has a trim angle of 5 degrees. I checked TDC with a hose connected to an old plug shell, run into a bottle of oil so I’m confident it is correct. Then figured out the trim requirements following Fridges recent response in another post. Throttle Position low is 12, high is 208. PWM valve is a Bosch unit. Leads are ex-Nige Magnecor variety. I subscribed to TunerStudio at the start because I'm not very confident with this type of stuff and wanted to develop a familiarity with the programme I wanted to use long term. This seemed to be the favourite, so I went with it. Over recent months I’ve changed plugs, leads, injectors, Lambda sensor etc. but just cannot get it to run properly... It starts fine, ticks over okay. Warms up and drives but the O2 sensor goes out of range therefore it won’t autotune. Tonight, ticking over, the O2 was at 1.4V but as soon as I take it down the road it climbs to 4.5v… When I take the plugs out they are black so seems to be running rich… I took the photo below to show the typical gauges when stationary. From there, the O2 only get worse when it is running..


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