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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Suggest you her something to make her happy - a OneTen will never be to drive like a car, whatever you throw at it. If she doesn't like it, she will not like it. Simple. Having said this, we had a 17 year young very French, very girly, young Lady with us last week and she loved driving the old Land Rovers and is showing signs of the well known addiction... Esp. the Ninety was much to her liking... Now her mom worries. A lot. Oh well.
  2. 1 point
    Shameful lack of progress as usual due to various other things draining my time, but I have been thinking about roof design and have settled on the below. Not to scale! On my previous workshop I used individual trusses constructed out of 47x100 timber with 22x100 cross-ties and a central vertical piece also. It did not have a ridge beam at all, and the structure of the roof was supported on 47x47 purlins which ran lengthwise. Rigidity was provided by the OSB deck which was screwed to the top and the roofing material was mounted onto this also. This worked very well however it made insulating it a bit of a pain and while it never gave me a single problem it wasn’t as strong as it could be. This time I am going with a more simple construction which will also be a lot stronger. The ridge beam will be of 225x47 and if I can source it, in a single (c. 6.6m) length. It will be semi-structural in that I hope to have a bay in the middle of the building where I can omit the cross-tie on two of the rafter pairs. At 600 rafter centres this will give me a c. 1.8m wide access to loft storage either side. As the roof pitch is going to be steeper (c. 35 degrees - lots of rain!) I will have lots of storage above the rafter ties, even with them raised to around 1/3 the depth of the roof. With 2.5 metres to the eaves and then likely another 750mm to the underside of these ties I will not be short of headroom in the building! With closer spaced and thicker rafters I will be able to fit 100mm thick insulation panels in between, flush with the lower space allowing 50mm above for eaves-to-ridge ventilation. I can then deck the roof with OSB and fit my sheeting on top. The interior of the walls will be boarded out to retain their insulation and if I’m feeling particularly flush I can do the roof too, but I don’t think it will be required. The underside of the rafter ties will be where I mount my lighting as per the previous building.
  3. 1 point
    Made and fitted the brake pipes yesterday inc bled the brakes as well, oh and here are a couple of night pic's
  4. 1 point
    I've done this, twice. Take floor and tunnel out. Remove top cover of gearbox and remove all selectors/forks. They just wiggle out. Be careful you don't loose the detent ball bearings. You will need long nose pliers and some dental floss (!). The 3rd/4th synchro is visible and the new springs can be fed in using pliers. Tie dental floss round each spring and attach the other end outside the gearbox. This saves the tedium of fishing them out through the bottom of the box when you inevitably drop them! IIRC its easier to have the syncro in neutral, slide one end of the spring in and then flick the hub along to get the other end in. The first spring is easier than the last. 🙄 Cut the dental floss when the spring is in place. You will need plenty of patience, but if you are lucky, it will actually take longer to get the floor out and the selector forks out. Use grease to stick the detent balls in place when you fit the top cover. The springs seem to last a lot longer if you make slow changes 3 to 4 and back, pausing in neutral (can keep clutch depressed) before going into the other gear. Its probably quick shifts that fracture the springs.
  5. 1 point
    Whatever your opinions of the vehicle, I think we'd all like to be the test drivers! In that case I suggest the moderators do a deal with the web host which allows lr4x4 to leave the host whilst still being hosted by the host. I would suggest the most appropriate deal would be one which neither the lr4x4 moderators or host moderators desire. If both sides object to the deal equally then logic states they will all agree to it as it's fair. If they don't just keep blindly putting the same deal forward for vote in the hope that people get bored of voting and give up whilst being completely oblivious to the fact that their time wasting is more crippling to the community than either being hosted or not hosted by the host.


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