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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Modern MINI’s at least in the 3 door format aren’t a million miles from the original though. The R50 (the first new MINI) was very close in many ways and had good styling traits. Also I’m not knocking the physical vehicle LR have announced. It looks to be everything the Discovery 5 should have been. It IS a Discovery in everything but name. But it isn’t and I doubt ever will be a Defender. Once it isn’t new and shiny I think people will look on it more with scorn and such a departure on what it should have been. Again I’m not attacking the physical vehicle. I can well see me owning one at some point. But never as a Defender/Series replacement or alternative. Not too mention this new model looks nothing like a Defender or Series, with which LR keep claiming it is related too.
  2. 1 point
    This exactly. When I was looking around at cars back in 2015, I was looking for something pokey but also something that had character. Whilst a Golf or Audi would have been quicker or a GT86 would have been more fun on wet roundabouts, the mini just had/has something fun about it. Yes it’s a million miles from the original car but it’s still instantly recognisable as a Mini. That’s where I think the new defender has lost out mostly, it just isn’t instantly recognisable in the same way.
  3. 1 point
    the parts pack from overdrive repairs arrived today, so I now have a nice new clean filter for the rear section & seals for the pistons, solenoid & other items Piston seals x 2 below pen nib Solenoid seals x 2 belowpen nib nice shiney new clean filter & gasket
  4. 1 point
    I'm not sure LR are being as cynical as you make out... in their day the old ones were better than a lot of cars available to the average farmer... hydraulic brakes, synchros on the gears, heater, windscreen wipers, that sort of luxury! Also nothing attracts the same devotion as the first of something - no-one's cherishing Discoveries like they are older Range Rovers, no-one cherishes Series 3's like they do Series 1's, etc. etc. with very few exceptions. Not sure that makes one better or worse than the other - the original minis are classics but you'd probably sooner have a modern one to go on a long journey or commute in, even if they are a tad more complicated Modern laws (safety, environment, etc.) and modern customers (beyond a few die-hard masochists) want modern vehicles.
  5. 1 point
    I'm genuinely amazed by the difference in road noise between the 265 mud terrains and 235 ATs. I can (almost) have a conversation with a passenger now which is nice. I've got a day's shooting at the weekend so looking forward to getting them in some mud to see how they handle.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Beware that they do encourage anything that makes their own delivery quicker and simpler, they are naturally wary of small DIY jobs because the lories spend more time in general on site. I really wouldn't be tempted on your sloping site to go without steel mesh, it helps insure against inconsistancies in the laying technique, almost inevitable unless you get in skilled labour. If you have some choice of supplier in your location then do enquire what vehicles are available, I had a combination 6m³ mixer and pump wagon combined on my last big floor job, probably rare enough to find though. More common are the small lorries and the 'We mix-You lay' pan mixer tippers which would probably be more cost effective. Lastly water, ... don't agree to extra water being added unless you have a genuine difficulty, some drivers are over keen to make their own job easy at your expense. Too much water can seriously damage the strength of your slab. Unless you are dealing with modern self levelling gypsum recipes and the like (which I presume you aren't) then water is your enemy. Same goes for washing out, think before hand where the lorry can wash down and make sure it is well away from anything important. At the end of the day, the slab is the foundation, very difficult to re-visit and improve after the event, an extra £400 (guessing) on a pump lorry might seem like a lot but it will make the job so much easier, the pump operator will place the concrete precisely and quickly exactly where required and massively reduce the physical effortrequired from you/your team, leaving you free to concentrate on tamping and floating.
  8. 1 point
    Yes, I was just checking further up the thread and realised remembered that we are of course talking about the later axle. You beat me to my edit!
  9. 1 point
    "They haven't seen the car but they've already had this idea in their minds that we've screwed it up" Sounds like the first half of this thread for starters
  10. 1 point
    Yeah, it makes me think "what a prat, bet he'd sell any old cack"
  11. 1 point
    ISO quality accreditation = how to make carp consistently. I've upset many an auditor...
  12. 1 point
    I think the P38 is highly dependent on what condition the chassis / general condition of it is in. If it's not roadworthy then I'd probably just break it for parts at which point I might as well take the plasma cutter to it . Lower bumpers are trash as are most corners so remove body work and shove some stupid tyres on it. In fact I just remembered snapping the rear tailgate when we put some ladders on it to remove the current 300Tdi for the 110. Fuel tank is held in place with a ratchet strap too . Maybe if the weather clears up tomorrow I'll take a more appraising look at it. Mind you I'll have to stop playing with the new toy tool.
  13. 1 point
    OK that's it, I am officially labeling you as a 'git'
  14. 1 point
    The clutch switch is on the master-cylinder: it switches between two fuel-profiles. One [active when the clutch pedal is pressed] shuts the fuel off pretty much immediately you close the throttle - so the revs drop rapidly for gearchanges. The second profile - active during normal driving - gives a slower defuelling if the throttle's shut quickly - reducing shock-loads on the driveline. It can also potentially avoid breaking traction if you snap the throttle shut under marginal-grip conditions. It also controls anti-stall programming - the behaviour of the engine if you try and load the engine without applying any throttle (like when reversing a trailer and just wanting to creep along). Rather a good idea, actually! As to the particular issue being reported on here, I'd look at the throttle-pot and associated wiring first, then get the codes read.

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