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Land Rover hate him for his honesty, but love him for his honesty. It's such a love/hate relationship. At the moment it's hate. Mitsubishi , on the other hand, loathe him He reminds me a lot of David Bowyer - but a colonial version. David is a wonderful chap and a good friend, but he has this way of not sweetening the facts, something some folks hate. I don't. If the truth hurts learn form the hurt, then don't get hurt again

Don't be in a rush! Stick a normal screw-up puller on it, wind it up nice and tight, then leave it for a day or so. The sustained pulling-action will work its magic. Same goes with ordinary taper ball-joints: Don't mercilessly screw up the puller until something breaks - just do it up 'tight' then leave it for a morning. Too many people are in a rush and expect to see instant results with pullers etc. Give them time - let the joint 'relax' and it will pop.

I've had a few on vehicles. I don't know anything about the Britpart version, looks the same as the other types though. the only thing I would strongly advise would be to add another couple of coats of paint at least. They are in a vulnerable position behind the wheel for water spray, gravel etc and Britpart rarely add enough paint anyway. Plus once it's fitted you cant access four sides of it. I wouldn't use one on a diesel as the range on a full tank is enough , more useful in a V8 though and better than keeping cans of fuel inside the car.

Wow Western, this feels like finding a new continent!!! something Land Rover related that has NOT BEEN DISCUSSED on this forum, a TRULY rare thing 😉😎 does anyone out there have one of these tanks installed?

Teaches me to read things in a rush. Did think it was rather impressive!

I stick to the tried and test formula of: Etch primer Marine Primer Agricultural/Industrial gloss pain (thinned down and applied in multiple layers) Morrison's Anchor Wax - this product is amazing - works it's way behind rust then forms a seal. It may be that I have in the past added 10% spent motor oil to this, although I annot condone that practice as its not environmentally friendly. I hot was my chassis off every couple of years, let it dry, then air blast the whole thing, to remove any remaining crud/water; then apply the (w)Anchor Wax in layers over about 4 hours. My vehicle is a daily driver and 27 years old. Original chassis, original sills (mostly) One thing I would say, is that Anchor Wax burns like a candle. You need to weld with an extra body doing fire watch (using the air gun to put the flames out)

But the journalists represent the target market. JLR aren't interested in hard core off road users. They've not enough of a demographic to pay. (Or so JLR think) They want the aspirational rural market, the market the discovery used to target.

Could be M8 gas fittings? They're very fine pitch I think. Struggled with that stuff before for LPG... Some drawings of the P38 chassis from RAVE: Front end, you can see the spring mounts and shock turrets: Rear, spring mount is under the naughty shaped hole in the crossmember. The springs poke through there.

Yes, exactly. The "flattening the curve". What has been dawning on me over the past few days though, is that it may not be preferential to flatten the curve "as much as we can". We need to flatten the curve to fit the capacity of the health system. Which could explain why different countries go for different approaches to lockdowns etc. It could very well be that a country that has lots of healthcare capacity chooses to let people mingle a bit longer so they can get it over with more quickly. It's all a trade-off. Healthcare capacity vs panic vs economic damage.

Related but slightly off-topic if people want some mains operated ones I'd highly recommend the VTAC lights with Samsung LEDs in them. I've just finished wiring up a pair of them in my temporary workshop and took a before and after picture - before was a pair of fluorescent tubes suspended from the rafters: And then after was with one floodlight screwed into the rafters at either end of the old Victorian kitchen (yup, my temporary workshop used to be a kitchen, admittedly several hundred years ago): Those 100W / 6500K ones are currently £22.50 + VAT at CPC, the 50W versions are £9.95 + VAT. I've had some outside for about 9 months now and they've survived the winter comfortably. My parents have one installed on their tallest barn facing the prevailing weather and it's been up there for a couple of years and still going strong.

I've used MRC3075 which is the 2 door/early 4 door type. it may be possible to use a later mirror if the swivel ball is the same size, sounds like others have had success.

The one on the left of your picture is the driver side one (on a RHD.) Consider the alignment of the hinge pin, where it's angled to maintain the line of the pins through the upper and lower hinges, given that the upper one is above the "waist line" of the cab.

@miketomcat ran his rear-radiatored Tomcat on the road all the time with no problems, likewise Richard's Dlander, Jez's Petal and Mouse both had rear rads with no issues. All of them had roof scoops. Most of the comp safari boys have rear rads and they're not hanging around.