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  1. 3 points
    They use 2.5m steel for the legs same as Richards and 4mm for rear x member, bolt in gear box x member as standard. They don't remove any excess galv from bolt holes but the chassis they had on display didn't look bad TBH. Guess I'll see when it arrives in 3 weeks! I'll be sure to put up a rebuild thread and let you all know what it is like.
  2. 1 point
    Your supposed to used different sized ones. There are 40 between 58.325mm up to 59.300mm in increments of 0.025mm. As i haven't got the facilities to set the gear bearing group up properly with a dial indicator etc. Im going to use the existing fixed width one, tighten up to a reasonable force and hopefully not pinch too tight to impede the rotation. Anything will be better than how it was.
  3. 1 point
    Thanks scotts, bowie! Scotts the spacer in mine is a fixed width one. I think i can reuse it. Any old o rings or should i be sourcing something special? I think i should jet was the extierior but maybe not a good idea to introduce water into the case. Bearings / rust etc. Some clean rags, degreaser patience and clean the bearings methodically. Reassemble nicely and remount it and move on in life. You guys, all of you, amazingly supportive. Thank you! Now I'm able to offer advice based on experience too. Experience has made all the difference to this particular novice
  4. 1 point
    Pretty sure I've got an old crush spacer in my "boxoflt230bits" and if memory serves it was deformed way more than the one in your pics. Will measure tonight if I can find it.
  5. 1 point
    Ok yes that makes sense. It was worth a mention IMHO ☺️ If I were you and I'd had that offer from Dave Ashcroft I would simply pickup the phone. You can describe exactly what you've got, what you can see and I'm sure he will know what's happened and have a solution.
  6. 1 point
    I generally fill through the plug on the rad and then do as Ralph suggests and finally check that the heater is getting hot before replacing the cap.
  7. 1 point
    I have a 300tdi in my series which uses the 300tdi motor mounts, these mounts transfer very little vibration in the vehicle. As for noise control I used "silent coat" over all panels from the seatbox downwards. Plus on the floor panels I have 10mm high density foam. The one thing that helped the most with noise control in the cabin is plugging or sealing all the holes in the body panels. This took a long time but effective in the end. The one area that I would like to point out that created the most noise is the lack of sealing between the bulkhead and the transmission tunnel cover. Solve that and you'll enjoy quieter motoring. We now can drive long distances without the need for ear plugs. Todd.
  8. 1 point
    Morning All, Treasurer speaking As many will be aware, after I looked into the funding situation of the forum, and noticed that past upgrades had made incorrect status changes, on resetting things to be as they should have been, the issue of Members & their "Avatars" arose,. After much chewing and discussions in the A&M Team I am now able to give not just some clarification and a final update, but have also decided that it would be a good idea for members new and old to have it very clearly outlined as to the groups, and the processes of moving within each. So here goes ! Finbally, on the question of Avatars, if you are in "Settled In" or either of the 2 x 'Supporter' groups, it is possible you may not have the ability to replace your Picture, if this is the case please PM me and I'll go and make the appropriate changes, in the meantime this will be posted at the top of every forum so new members can see about the groups, and also about how to go about supporting the Forum financially This "Header" will be deleted in say approx 1 month - just leaving the outline of groups and fundings set out below. In the meantime I have a lot of work to do behind the scenes to finalise everything. There are still 3 x People who I have regular monies from that I cannot allocate ! these are : Mr & Mrs Sheppard Mr C Grady M Baynham James Lees If you are one of the 4 x reading this PLEASE PM ME !!!!! Sorry its taken a while, but its a mammoth task + then to also get to grips with the historical issues which then arose on top which were rather unexpected !. Nige ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How 'Membership Levels' work & How to help financially support LR4x4.com Guest The "GUEST" Level. As a "Guest" you have very limited board access, as you are not yet a LR4x4 Member. You can view and read parts of the Forum, but cannot post or comment. To do this you need to Register New Faces. Now you are a Member. However, all your initial posts are scanned and approved by Admin & Moderators to check your not a Scammer,, Troll, or posting unsuitable posts. When we have decided your a serious new member of LR4x4 you move to : Getting Comfortable Now you can post without approval, and upload attachments, use the 'Personal Messenger' system, 'Calendar', and 'Gallery', and access to other 'Sub Forums'. Later you move into the final Group on the board : Settled In This is the last of the boards standard 'Groups'. In 'Settled In' you do however get the benefit of an "Avatar" (A picture of your choice you can change and alter as you wish) which shows on the LHS of your posts under your forum name and above your 'Settled In' Title, and you are free to now sell within the For Sale Section of LR4x4. As with 'Settled In, ' and all the other Standard Groups, all the above groups have Advertising showing as part of the boards standard system. 'Silver & Gold Supporters Groups" You may have noticed the 'Silver' & 'Gold' Banners some members show in their profile and posts, these are 2 Additional 'Special Groups' that many members kindly join. These 2 Special Member Groups are : "Forum Financial Supporter" & "Long Term Forum Financial Supporter". As you may guess these Groups are reserved for those who value the Forum so much they wish to contribute a small amount to assist with the boards not insignificant running costs via a Donation. All A&M Team Members Past & Present are in this group as a recognition to their commitment & contributions (many also contribute financially too) to LR4x4 Forum Financial Supporter You can enter this group (from ANY of the Groups above) jumping straight into this Group via a Donation of £25, which is valid for a year from payment. After that year expires you return to whichever Standard Group you merit. A reminder is sent 1 month before expiry. Payment can be made via a Bank Transfer, or, more commonly via a PayPal Payment. PLEASE also advise our Treasurer Hybrid_From_Hell who will ensure your changes are made. The additional benefits over and above "Settled in" level, are Cleaner Forum Viewing - No Adverts Access to 'Special Promotions' LR4x4 has from time to time (Always at a discount to Forum Financial Supporters & Long Term Forum Financial Supporters) A "SILVER" Banner under your Forum Name - Giving recognition of your kind and valuable Donation to LR4x4 Long Term Forum Financial Supporter This group is the same as 'Forum Financial Supporter' except the Banner is the "Gold" Banner. You can joing this group helping fund the forum via either a Monthly Standing order of just £2, or a Yearly Standing order of £24,...... either moves you into this top group, along with the "Gold Banner" Cleaner Forum Viewing - No Adverts Access to 'Special Promotions' LR4x4 has from time to time (Always at a discount to Forum Financial Supporters & Long Term Forum Financial Supporters) A "GOLD" Banner under your Forum Name - Giving recognition of your kind and valuable Donation to LR4x4 The PayPal account is accessed via The Orange "DONATE" button at the top of the Home page on the forum, or via this link : PayPal Donation Link For Standing Orders and Bank information - Contact either the Treasurer - Hybrid_From_Hell or any of the A&M Team, we don't post up this information for obvious reasons ! LR4x4 exists purely for members. All of the A&M Team give up their time for FREE, no Salaries, Fees, Commissions etc etc , are paid or taken by ANY of the A&M team. All and ANY contributions go 100.00% to the forum running costs with £0.00 Deductions. Always has been... always will be On behalf of the LR4x4 A&M team : One last thing - Enjoy LR4x4.com
  9. 1 point
    I do not think its possible for the case to wear that much.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Are you able to lay out the items that were there in place, in a line so we can see exactly what's been fitted (or not)?
  12. 1 point
    10mm is a lot. the case does not look worn and to be honest it would be impossible to wear that much away. Theres only 10 parts the the inter shaft assembly including all the O rings and nuts etc. So Gear, Crush Spacer, 2 x Bearings, 2 x O rings, Shaft, Plate, Bolt, Lock Nut. How theres a 10mm gap is a mystery. However you are correct about the case being squeezed to take up the float but NOT 10mm! Possibly 1mm max!
  13. 1 point
    Update! Trip to Peterborough for the LRO Show yesterday and did a cash deal with Shielder for a new galv chassis, about £700 cheaper and lead time of 3 weeks. Now busy studying @western's chassis swap thread to see what else I need before it lands.
  14. 1 point
    I still want someone to fit the polycarbonate see-thru version for ultimate awesomeness: https://www.hedman.com/product-detail/8401
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Regarding pointing the diff pinion straight at the transfer box output, that's not neciserially a good idea. The straight UJ at the diff end effectively running a constant velocity V.S. a large angle ~12-15°+ (which is therefore running a non constant velocity) at the transfer box end can cause the prop to "slap" the centre diff on overrun at higher speeds. This sounds like a terribly rough bearing inside the T box! Horrible You're better off trying to equalise angles than at both ends and phase the It's to suit. If you keep the prop straight at one end and want all the angle to happen at the other end that needs to be a double Cardon joint that runs at effectively a constant velocity
  17. 1 point
    Hi, once you have removed it, get it on a bench, remove the sump and give me a call and I will talk you through removing the gear, changing the intermediate bearings and dropping the gear back in, or you can stick it on a pallet and send it to me , if it just needs these 2 bearings, with new spacer and nut only about £75 parts and labour and about £60 return carriage, Dave 01582 496040
  18. 1 point
    IIRC, one of the "three up the middle" is a dowel. On mine (which I pulled last week), I initially thought it was jammed until I realised I'd forgotten the 17mm nut on the stud at the top which the earth wire for the reversing switch was attached. if you haven't already, remove the right hand gearbox mount altogether - unbolt it from the chassis and the mounting rubber. That gives a bit more freedom to wiggle the box free.
  19. 1 point
    Ralph, Thank you very much. That's great. Regards Nigel
  20. 1 point
    Hi again Nick and guys. Sorry i've not post anything regarding the ( Ticking Noise ) but after my last weekend trip my other half wanted to go on holiday, so.... Anyway this gave me some time to reflect on things regarding the engine and in the end, i've decided to bite the bullet and try to get as much done as i can in one go. Obviously this has meant saving up lots of pennies as this will cost a few quid to do it right. I don't really want to be stripping the head off again in a hurry !!!. So..i've still to check the Tappet Guides but it's been raining again and again. Depending on what i find under closer inspection will determine if i buy a full new set. Plus valve guides, plus new hotspots, new valve stems plus FITTING!!. I'M kind of looking around the £250-300 pound mark i reckon. So anyway, i shall let you know my findings as soon as i'm able. Cheers Dave.
  21. 1 point
    All fixed for under £500 and just passed the MOT (after changing the TREs)
  22. 1 point
    For my part I would prefer to see the .com retained. As Mav rightly points out LR4x4 on it's own means diddly squat so it needs to show an online association.
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