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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    All this grumbling and no-one's appreciating the fact that LR are clearly testing the thing off-road. If they didn't care, as many here are claiming, they wouldn't be spending millions of pounds in R&D dragging it over rocks in Moab etc. (How many other manufacturers bother? Do we believe a BMW X5 prototype has ever been rock-crawling?) For all the grumbling, LR take off-road ability more seriously than most others - the fact they even do it with the likes of the Evoque deserves a bit of credit, especially if you hold it up against its competition. Jamie's comments about the exhaust hanging down miss the point too - that's the same idea as the freelander and it works well - banging the exhaust makes a terrible noise but is ultimately harmless and lets you know you've run out of clearance. Likewise the front ARB was the lowest point at the front and is a robust but ultimately non-critical part that you could hang the car on (much like a Defender gearbox crossmember) without causing damage, and the CLONK lets you know you need to back up. Compared to the low-hanging fruit of major drivetrain components you see protruding under other SUV's it's very elegant design. I'd rather replace a £50 back-box than poke a rock through the rear diff. I don't see a problem basing it on the D5 - they based the Defender on the Range Rover platform after all - same thing, different century! Air suspension may be novel on a utility 4x4 but then coil springs and disc brakes were novel on a 4x4 in 1983 - and are still novel on plenty of modern 4x4's, and no-one's bitching about the Defender being too fancy compared to proper leaf springs and drum brakes
  2. 4 points
    If you have a USAF contact you might negotiate a replacement engine arriving in the boot of a transport plane with somewhat discounted postage...
  3. 2 points
    Still loving using this - and working through the various teething troubles. I can fit my daughters motorbike in the back ... Biggest teething problem was the rear diff exploding. I’d fitted Rover P4 used diffs - I had remembered them as being 3.9’s but they are actually 4.3’s. As an interim, and to assess how it ran, I’ve run it with the front prop removed and a 3.54 fitted. Which proved too high a gear - it’s like a 3 speed box with an overdrive, and on the B roads around me I can’t be in 4th or I get transmission shunting. So a 4.3 has been found and I’ll be off to pick it up shortly. A lot of things have worked really well - the heated seats are great and the Webasto is amazing. I left it on a few weeks back whilst we went into a restaurant- when we came back it was so hot 🥵 I suddenly realised my mouth was dry . The only down side with the vents is they get knocked shut when someone is in the middle seat - I could switch them to a non directional / closable vents ... but it’s good being able to direct the air - so I’ll live with it. Current conundrum is my indicators - they’ve developed a fault where they work fine without the engine running, but when it is running they behave like their is a bad earth, with the tell tale light having the faintest glow when they aren’t on - and when switched on they don’t flash. Any suggestions for it?
  4. 2 points
    I think we need another photo without the supports... you know.... not that we don't believe you........
  5. 1 point
    Which is why all those trophy trucks, Baja racers, Dakar buggies, and all modern cars use independent suspension I guess... it'll work fine, handle better, and I will still bet you that the new Defender is more capable from the factory than the original Defender was from the factory.
  6. 1 point
    Retroanaconda..... this is the kit i have so looks like i am sorted i think
  7. 1 point
    I’ve posted about this before but you can get an airlock in the pump if the tiny bleed hole is blocked in the return line banjo bolt at the top rear of the pump, which cause the exact symptoms you have - no fuel reaching the pump head / fuel solenoid. Try removing this banjo bolt from the return line fitting on the pump and turning the engine over, this will bleed air from the pump if the hole or integral filter s blocked and hopefully engine will start. Hole in banjo bolt can be cleaned out with a strand of wire.
  8. 1 point
    I almost always run with coolant on slow, mainly as I don't want covering in it. Especially useful with stainless. My lathe has a Warco coolant kit on it and works fine, you get the tank, pump, single flexible nozzle and pipework but is a bit spendy. My mill has a submersible pump in an old drum of coolant, it runs 6 jets and cools the bearings no problem. Certainly a cheaper way of doing it if you can pick a pump up second hand.
  9. 1 point
    Me too, but it's a weeee bit spendy compared to the other flavours! My lathe came with a Dickson type one (RDG Tools have them) and I wouldn't be without it. RDG tools are pretty good value for reasonable quality gear - not ABOM / This Old Tony quality but equally not awful Chinese tat. Likewise Chronos. I've never bothered faffing with the (dead) coolant pump, not sure how necessary they are?
  10. 1 point
    Is it possible to keep the PS pump connected when removing the bracket or does it need disconnecting? I presume this is the bracket in question?
  11. 1 point
    Unless you've managed to get an air bubble somewhere that's not quite bled. Did it bleed easily enough after you put it back together?
  12. 1 point
    Ok - gotta come clean as I found out something yesterday. But first this was the engine running on carbs with EDIS on default two years ago - starts easy and ran well. Then as you can see it was still on carbs and the EDIS wiring was just linked together with twisted wiring and electrician tape for insulation - but it ran and actually with fixed ignition ran very well even under load. Since then the carb manifold has come off and a Thor manifold on in anticipation of MS3. The Edis wiring was hard wired in and last week I tried to start the engine without MS3 on starter fluid with LPG but it backfired etc. In frustration I took the Thor manifold off and put the carbs back on thinking I could get it to start on petrol but alas no it did not happen. Then as, mentioned I fixed the plug to the coil issues but it still would not fire correctly. Sometime back someone either here or on another forum someone said that the symptoms I had was if the firing order was wrong and I checked this 3 times and it was correct. With this in the back of my mind and having just found a fault in the coil plugs I deciding to verify the EDIS wiring was all correct. I pulled out EDIS and put it back where I had it in the vid above - on the passenger seat floor - I thing unpicked all the cable shrink wrap and tape on all the wiring and then it was obvious for all (me) the see. I had wired the coils the wrong way around - you can see that I had them right at the start in the vid and somehow doing the permanent wiring I got it all wrong. Now it was not that I had plugged in the plugs into the wrong coil, but I had actually sent the wires for the left coil to the right coil and vice versa - the harness to the right coil is a lot longer than the one to the left so I had not just plugged in the wrong plug to the wrong coil - I completely stuffed it up - I cut the cables and reconnected them the correct way. Well the engine fired on first start (it will not run on the carbs) but with a dribble of starter fluid going into I managed to get it to do a reasonable idle for two minutes - so now I know I have reasonable ignition and just need to sort the carbs that have been sitting for 2 years so just might need a clean out - I will see if i can get it to run on the LPG this week before playing with the carbs. So it has taken a little while but with all your help I have been able solve this little mystery - and cause myself a little embarrassment. Ultimately this engine will be injected and running on MS3 with no EDIS but what this issue has reminded me is that it is best to deal with one issue at a time. So the plan is now to leave EDIS as it is and get the engine running on the carbs (where I was 2 years ago). Buy a Megajolt ECU so that when still on carbs I have full ignition control. When I have that I will pull the carbs off and put on a 14CUX injection manifold and get it running on its ECU with Megajolt ignition. Then bring in the MS3 to start on ignition or fuel then both and do away with EDIS - then sell off EDIS, Megajolt, 14CUX ECU etc. I dont want to be sorting fuel or ignition at the same time - it is too stressful. Thanks for all your help. Garry
  13. 1 point
    People used to do that with hosepipes, not seen that for a long time
  14. 1 point
    Flasher relay/can would be my first point of interest assuming all the normal connection and earth checks are ok , Funnily enough I am still loving this too cheers Steve b
  15. 1 point
    I'm thinking that the retractable one will go by the door, so I can pull it out to blow up tyres outside easily. For now I'll plumb it in with one of my normal lines, but eventually I'll hard-line it all the way to the compressor. I've found an old stainless compressed air tank (well two) at work to stick inline down by the door so I've got a bit of an air reserve if I'm doing anything else further out from the workshop door.
  16. 1 point
    Cut out folded and fitted. One each side and hopefully this will reduce the amount of carp that ends up in the engine bay. Mike
  17. 1 point
    And how professional the camera work seems to be. The scenery is always what catches my eye, I'd love to do some trips like this.
  18. 1 point
    Not a land rover but I did it on a suzuki with Rover 600 / Honda accord rear calipers as it's what was available cheaply. Run 2 cables back to the hand brake lever with a balance bit. Ideally you want a caliper that fits the disk you have then just alter the brackets to suit.
  19. 1 point
    Yes, it's proved remarkably solid - I was discussing it with him as I'm looking at using a similar idea on my front anti-wrap when I revise it. I think he's done the same trick on a few other vehicles since as well.
  20. 1 point
    Wrong vehicle - Fl1 have the dodgy viscous that seizes up, FL2 use a Haldex clutch on the rear diff, so I don't think they suffer the same set of issues as the FL1.
  21. 1 point
    Agreed, and copper grease, brass nuts. Do it once, right.
  22. 1 point
    Yes trying to keep it the same height, that why i will probably reset the camber. I did them in the past myself, but its a lot of work. This time i have a spare set of leaves which i will reset after i install the winch and see where it sits, and how it rides. Cause if it hits the bumps all the time it might be too soft and i will than probably add a leaf. No paras for me in front, i had them, broke them, and hated them, so its standard springs up front. Grem
  23. 1 point
    I love threads like this and seeing how people go about putting stuff together! If you enjoy your steam and your near enough it's the steam weekend at Beamish this weekend I believe. I went last year and was very impressed with the amount of stuff just trundling past. There's a steep hill upto the entrance and they really have to work them to get up. A friend is crew on a steam lorry so I might go and see if I can blag a cheeky ride.
  24. 1 point
    Yes, I don’t know how you managed to handle them all and move them around. Very well done in a confined area.
  25. 1 point
    Hello , My vehicle is back on the road. Took it for a long run this weekend. On the way back another driver pulled up alongside and told me that the rear of the vehicle was off from the front. I am sorry but I just cannot describe this properly. When I got home I took a look underneath and noticed that the lower link on the right back was a bent a bit. I have not taken the vehicle to be aligned as yet. Note when I got into the accident last year the rear ball joint assembly was damaged and had to be replaced. Here is a pic of my vehicle.


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