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Showing most liked content since 05/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 likes
    Ok, So there is a thread on U/J quality in the international forum were people are mentioning short lives of their U/J, and questioning their quality. Of course, a genuine U/J generally lives longer than a cheap replacement. But In my experience, there is more to it. Mainly maintenance; how often do you grease your U/Js? And the next question is than how is it done. Before you all think I teaching you to suck eggs I will expand on this a bit more: Problem I found is that one grease nipple is serving 4 bearings. In reality, this means that the grease tend to find the route with the least resistance. This usually means you are effectively greasing 1 or 2 bearings only. And what about the others? They are dry as a bone and fall apart. To combat this, I thought about it, and came up with a method that I will show you here. It is rather involved, but I have not changed a U/J in 10 years. Here we go: First off, grease as you would normally. You can see which bearing gets grease, as it pours past the seal: The ones that dont get any grease need feeding as well. You can do this by pressing the bearing which has already been greased against the crosspiece like so: This now should stop the flow of grease to the already greased bearing, and find the next passage with the lowest resistance. If you still have other bearings that have no grease coming out, you can add a G-clamp with a nut, to press 2 opposed bearing cups against the cross piece. keep repeating this process until all bearing cups have grease coming out. This process is rather fiddly, but as mentioned, since I started doing it this way, I have had no failures. I have done this with the props on the car and using 2 opposed G-clamps. Also, the blue grease is better in my experience, as it does not go solid like the yellow stuff (which I am using here, unfortunately). Hope that helps, and have fun greasing these things! Daan
  2. 4 likes
    Had a look just now, I've placed six orders with Island 4x4 in total, the first one going back to 2011. All shipped to Ireland and all arrived without issue. I like Island 4x4. Dear Island 4x4. It's great that you came on to respond. You haven't addressed the actual problem though so it reads more like you came just to say "sod off". Not good for business. If the OP had gotten some communication from you he might not have posted in the first place. A simple "we're sorry we didn't get back to you in good time and we're making every effort to make sure our sales support is top notch", shows professionalism and that you care about each and every one of your customers - even if you hate the OP's guts and you're not doing squat to up your communication game. That little bit of acknowledgement would give you the chance of having his custom again, and that of anyone else who sympathises with him. Judging by their website, the OP is a member of a very active and motivated club. It doesn't matter how many parts you send around the world if your prospective customers feel as though there's no guarantee they'll hear from you again once the order is placed. I've had no reason to doubt your service in the past, but when it comes to placing another order, of course I'll have question whether your the right supplier. Before you tell me to sod off, I've written this because I'd like to know you're there when I need stuff, not because I want to have a go. George
  3. 4 likes
    Is this the 5 minute argument or the full half-hour?
  4. 3 likes
    You don't want bar grips. I drove the 109 to Russia and back on (sort of) bar grips - actually 9.00x16 Petlas: Dirtydiesel was ahead of me in the convoy in a 300TDi RRC with no interior/soundproofing, he said he spent hours on the road trying to find the odd noise his truck was making - dipping the clutch, turning things on & off, etc. etc... eventually we pulled into a petrol station, and as I rolled to a halt behind him he realised it was my tyres he could hear!
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    Oh well. I thought in for a penny in for a pound. It's just done 80 miles to my parents. It's kind of local compared to most of my current journeys!
  7. 2 likes
    Err the wall behind the truck.....OK I'm going now. Mike
  8. 2 likes
    Thanks for the info. Must admit am tempted, but will pass in favour of the spending 5 times as much on the R-tech inverter MIG which can do stick too... As we've mentioned Bridgwater, Toolstation have their 'outlet' shop there, always worth a peruse if you're in the area. Weston Five-0; hmmmm not sure that TV series would get commissioned somehow. .... Damn now I have a mental image of the theme song to drunks fighting underneath the pier....
  9. 2 likes
    Thread revival I've finally looked at this again and bought a used VW 99 relay, plugged it in and it works! So I'm happy although I still wonder why the first two new relays didn't. Then I saw this thread in the Tech archive (how do you guys do those fancy links to other threads) and I moved my AMR2341 relay to the rear wiper. I followed the instructions in there from @nickwilliams and made the little loom to a suitable relay base. I replaced the resistor and got a 16s intermittent delay which is great. Thanks Nick for a great write-up. Finally, I replaced the wiper motor drive cable and the two wheel boxes and got a new pair of blades and all's good. I realised that the wheel boxes don't need to be replaced as long as you mark the spindle before pulling out the cable drive, as only a few teeth are in contact and they just need turning through 180. In fact I'm sure i've read about that too somewhere on here.
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  11. 1 like
    Paint code BS381 285 NATO green satin much easier with a compressor, you just need to mask the windows, lights and mirror glass you can get the paint mixed at any car paint supplier . The easiest safest type of paint for you to use is 1k polyeurethane. Takes a long time to dry (touch dry in a few hours but not fully dry for 48 hrs+) but is a very tough finish when fully dry.
  12. 1 like
    It's time to paint the Land Rover! Currently it's sitting like this: http://oi67.tinypic.com/2u8bd47.jpg It's a mat nato green/olive color, but as you can see on the door, it had different shades of green in the past.. I was looking at this and found the dark olive with satin finish absolutely great, it still has the military look, but looks modern: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlKPGkrZcGQ Does anyone know that color? Or RAL code? Or even what brand and where to buy it from? Second, I've never painted a car.. I've seen people do it with rollers or air brush. I have a large compressor, so air brush could be used, but I believe that's more work since you really need to strip/cover everything. with a roller, you can just carefully paint the parts you want. Do I have to sand it down first? Thanks!
  13. 1 like
    A update about my 72' SIII build. I stumbled into a 69' SIIA and picking her up in the next couple days. Needs new chassis and definitely new bulkhead. I'm giving the SIII to my nephew, he's 20 and a good buddy and he is going to rebuild her, we will be working on them together. He's keeping her basically stock ie, Series axles, gearbox and all that. Will be getting a 200Tdi, and rebuilding it, but not using the turbo, probable be getting a Turner performance head for it though. The 200di will give him a rebuilt to new condition diesel engine and not be stressing the SIII gearbox or running gear, and give good mpg.We're rebuilding the SIII chassis, it's in pretty good shape to start with, putting new military dumb irons and rebuilding the front horns, new military spring hangers in rear, Rocky Mountain Parabolic springs, extended shock mounts, new Richards' under flywheel and bolt on gearbox cross members and we're building a new rear cross member. With the Military dumb irons and rear spring hangers, he can run what ever amount of lift he wants down the road.She's getting taken down to bare metal and finished from there, all new bolts, nuts, screws fittings etc. He's buying the YMR bulkhead parts I already have and completely rebuilding the bulkhead. I going to build the SIIA with new chassis, probably buy a new bulkhead from Dave Marsh, and pretty much build it along the lines of the SIII Kevin is now building. But I'll be using a 300Tdi, stubby R380, Ashcroft adapter kit to mate Series TC to it and Land Cruiser axles and diffs. To find one Series on the Big Island is surprising, to find two Series here is unbelievable, and then to be able to get them both is just bizarre! lol I'll post up some pics of the SIIA soon as we get her home, in next few days. I'm pretty jazzed! :-DCheers, AllenI'll get Kevin to join the forum here and he can tell about his rebuild on the SIII as it progresses.
  14. 1 like
    The MOD versions were bolt in as well.
  15. 1 like
    I have/had a 1986 110 2.5 na which I put a 300tdi defender engine into. Used the LT77 by cutting the center out of the 110 flywheel casing allowing me to bolt the 300 to the LT77 and no bolts left out. Cutting out the center lets you use the 300 seal on the output shaft. Made up a down pipe from 2 x 90 degree bends welded together. one engine mount will work ok the other needs made. Doing it this way no props needed to be changed the gear and trans levers stay the same. If yours is not a galvanised chassis you have this option. Good Luck
  16. 1 like
    in theory if you fit 300 tdi props and use 300 tdi transferbox/gearbox mounts the engine should be in the correct place if you go on Richards chassis website an click defender I'm sure there is pics of all the different types of mounts and where they are if you know someone with a late defender genuine workshop manual there should be chassis measurements in there
  17. 1 like
    those are just factory standard front seats as fitted to the 300tdi/td5 vehicles. only the material change for different model year updates. early vehicles had a hard shell to the rear of backrests, some have a map pocket across the back, mine 1989 are soft backed with no map pocket, so yes there are variations.
  18. 1 like
    Had a nice surprise this morning went to my daughter's ( my ex wife's house ) to get some tools to help a mate put a shed up and found son was there doing stuff to the 90 he had fitted the screen / frame in place and was in the middle of fitting the roof on and said he will do some painting later so I will go round again tomorrow and have a look and take some pic's
  19. 1 like
    Landroverman.com is way down in Somerset, near Taunton, the ad is up in Milton Keynes, so I would say at least that dealer hadn't done that.
  20. 1 like
    But don't all number plate makers have to put their details on them by law now? So could just have gone to them for a set of plates and bingo it looks like it was built by a proffessional!
  21. 1 like
    If I were you, get a Stage 1 V8 cross member for under the flywheel. It's a touch further back - inline with the bulkhead outriggers - and is also bolt in. I've just ordered one for my 88" chassis
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    Hi, whilst you're doing this it's a really good idea to "lap" all mating surfaces - I can give details if you need. This coupled with blanking the hole you speak of will all help to stop over-run and some evaporation (although I doubt all). Does these carbs the world of good.
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  25. 1 like
    If I unscrew the filler cap on my 300 tdi with the engine running, it stays in place on the rocker cover "fluttering". If I was to put my hand over the filler I would feel some pulsing or pressure. I would call this normal. If when you remove the filler it nearly takes your head off and rolls in to the corner of the garage you have a problem. Are there any other signs such as blue smoke, using a lot of oil ( other than leaks! ) etc.?
  26. 1 like
    That sounds pretty normal to me, at least the bit about the oil cap. Without understanding the aerodynamics of the cyclone breather and the passage of air around it it would be hard to make comments on it. Any engine will have some blow by, it is the nature of the beast, and 4 pistons going up and down at a high rate of knots is going to create a load of turbulence. I suspect you may be looking at something and worrying unnecessarily.
  27. 1 like
    Good show Rich, glad to hear it may be sorted 👍 Mo
  28. 1 like
    Lumenition module should work on anything, usually the just need +12v power & connected to the dizzy / coil.
  29. 1 like
    Thanks Western all sorted
  30. 1 like
    Get the 88 rebuilt on the new chassis I ordered last week Get the disco second row seats installed in The 109 and re visit the mounting of the front seats ...be surprised if either get done tbh!
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    So how is everybody getting on ? I have the gas ram bonnet kit in (plan to do a write up) and the stereo. Got the rear door stay and need to ponder that of course a flat bar of metal doesn't fit straight away what was I thinking.
  33. 1 like
    looks nice, rear end sits lower than the front and what is that big ball on the roof for ?
  34. 1 like
    Going to be examined by an insurance engineer then on to a garage of my choice..
  35. 1 like
    That would be quite some die nut ! Mo
  36. 1 like
    HELP pleeeeese !!! I have a 1991 200Tdi 110 Defender, and while on visit during April I bought a new centre portion for my front diff in South Africa. I live in Madagascar. I sailed back and started the dismantling of the old and to my horror found out that I have the 10 spline side shaft diff and the new one is 24 spline. No way I can hop back quickly and replace . . . so what do I do now? Can I use the 2 old side shaft gears in the new one (there are 2 spider gears and the 2 gears on the side shafts – page 410 No 2 in parts catalogue) OR can I buy 2 new 24 spline side shafts and replace my old 10 spline side shafts with them? OR am I stuck???? Any help will be well appreciated. My nearest LR dealer is 1000km’s away. Dries
  37. 1 like
    You can/could get Isuzu conversion rings to bolt in front of a V8 gearbox so that would be an way of getting the V8 clutch, but you'd need the V8 box & bellhousing.
  38. 1 like
    Complain. It should travel in a straight line, if they can't do a proper repair complain to your insurance company and reject their work
  39. 1 like
    Sorry, "BIG C" has been in family, treatment un derway but I have been a bit absent and remiss on this - Sorry Mo I know I have sorted ... Could I ask anyone who has ordered (got yours doug - but remind me of which you would like ?? ) to just re pm me with which you would like and I'll sort tomm Sorry all, apologies Nige
  40. 1 like
    Ah yes - Just up from the Five0 Station. Might have to drop in...
  41. 1 like
    We live in God's Chosen Country, the birthplace of civilisation in Northern Europe; the Land Of Eternal Summer. We are gifted. I stay away from WSM as I don't need to score class A drugs or watch drunks fighting ( I can do the later in Bridgwater, in far more salubrious surroundings); but the lure of a new Lidl is so tempting. Is it down by ATS? I find Taunton disappointing. Generally. It's now a NEW town, with 20k homes going up; no decent infrastructure and a lousy access to the M5 (just like WSM then!) I love Bridgy - its eclectic, random , endowed with superb architecture and some of the best Drunk Fighting in Europe. And as you say it's got lots of useful stuff...
  42. 1 like
    Don't worry Carl, we all own bottomless money pits here. Mo
  43. 1 like
    It's a great question, I'm just lurking waiting for the answers.
  44. 1 like
    That sounds superb. Have you ordered the rag top yet? Undercover Covers are regarded as the best by many, and I was disappointed with my Exmoor Trim top for my Lightweight.
  45. 1 like
    Just to update this thread. The leak worsened and I hadn't had time to fix it and needed to go away to Cumbria last week. So I ordered the later flange and seal kit (STC4457) from Britcar the week before I went and fitted it one evening: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/246023/0/flange_assy_sailsbury_diff_def__gt_wa Fitted it in an hour or so and its been leak free for nearly 1000 miles so far. Fingers crossed it stays that way! (only thing i would say is i think the seal is the wrong way round in the Britcar picture!) As a few of you suspected, the old flange was quite badly worn on the seal land hence the leak, but i can always speedisleeve this at my leisure now using cackshifters info above.
  46. 1 like
    And when the clutch holds, the LT77 breaks...
  47. 1 like
    Order a new Defender 110 XS USW to replace the one that I traded in last year. ......Oh hang on, bugger Source a sensibly priced Series to play with.
  48. 1 like
    Get the ibex finished......... Yes alright you can stop laughing now. Mike