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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    It's finished and IT VERKS!! If anyone is interested, I've edited a load of stills and footage together into a YouTube: Still got a bunch of testing and refinement of the hydraulics to do, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
    I feel it's one of my special skills, however I think this is cause by the vast amount of waiting we are doing in anticipation of the new defender. It's like an automotive brexit
  4. 2 points
    Lamp finished apart from wiring, a coat of clear lacquer and a lampshade most likely with some sort of game bird on it photos are from all angles ( not sure on some of the colouring may have to rub off ) regards Stephen
  5. 2 points
    Whatever your opinions of the vehicle, I think we'd all like to be the test drivers! In that case I suggest the moderators do a deal with the web host which allows lr4x4 to leave the host whilst still being hosted by the host. I would suggest the most appropriate deal would be one which neither the lr4x4 moderators or host moderators desire. If both sides object to the deal equally then logic states they will all agree to it as it's fair. If they don't just keep blindly putting the same deal forward for vote in the hope that people get bored of voting and give up whilst being completely oblivious to the fact that their time wasting is more crippling to the community than either being hosted or not hosted by the host.
  6. 2 points
    As born and breed Sheffield'er its quite depressing, but the steel industry has been on its knees in Sheff/uk for a longggggg time now, at least they're still having a hand in something.
  7. 2 points
    Sort of... There's plenty of "Ultra 4 vs Rock Bouncer videos" but they're all time-based competitions. I know the Ultra4 guys don't air down and run more "all-terrain" biased tyres due to the mixed racing they do and instead prefer to throw power and speed at the problem. What I'd be more curious is seeing them on, I suppose, would be more along the lines of what we might see in the UK - a mix of bogs, (thinking Highlands ), mud, rocks, grass etc. but rather than throw power into the equation follow the Green Lane Code and tread lightly so to speak. I.e. eliminate the huge (and admittedly fun) HP and speed figures and try and complete a course with minimal wheel spin and damage underneath. That should tell us a little more about the actual capabilities of the vehicle, momentum and speed can overcome a lot of shortcomings. I mean the Norwegian Army wanted to learn to fly and they didn't have any planes - so momentum and speed helped out here
  8. 2 points
    I work in manufacturing and am as dismayed by the offshoring that various politicians have enabled and encouraged, and I would agree that the UK MOD should by local rather than cheapest, however my only reservation would be if I'm sending a person to war I would want my priories to be 1) best equipment, 2) locally sourced 3) cheapest.
  9. 2 points
    We'll made it up to 70mph at the weekend and towed a trailer as well. Seems to be solved . Mike
  10. 1 point
    It's very unfortunate and misleading. The subtitles suggest the new car builds on the heritage of the others, when, in reality, it completely abandons every design feature of the old, bar the fact it has a four wheel drive system and possibly a Land Rover badge. I am generally positive about the new vehicle but hate bull droppings of this type! Not much ground clearance in this video either...
  11. 1 point
    Quite a while back on one of my mog axle posts somebody said the above title so here goes Started a project this weekend that I have been considering for a while elements of this are often carried by landrovers in the country ie game keepers but ultimately putting fabrication skills to the test Mods if you are not happy please remove and accept my apologies for posting So the project is to make a standard shotgun lamp Some of the bits cut pieces shaped shaping finished welding up and blending All put together and where I'm at now Going to fab a cartridge belt as part of the stand then buy a suitable lamp shade to finish hope to be complete by the end of next weekend Regards Stephen
  12. 1 point
    The ‘TouchNTuff’ ones Stellaghost has posted a picture of are the best ones I’ve come across. We use them at work for high vacuum cleanliness areas and they’re very resilient to sharp edges etc. They’re also resistant to tritium.... but you shouldn’t find that on a Land Rover .
  13. 1 point
    Made and fitted the brake pipes yesterday inc bled the brakes as well, oh and here are a couple of night pic's
  14. 1 point
    PM me next weekend with an address and I'll post some of to you on Monday regards Stephen
  15. 1 point
    I Brought some of these last time I ordered some parts from them https://www.shop4autoparts.net/tools/workshop/37301-Grippaz-Gloves-Large-Box-of-50/ and I found them the best I’ve used they’re not tight , I’ve even taken them off and then put them back on again and they’re quite thick . They do larger and smaller sizes as well .
  16. 1 point
    I am planning to be in Somerset briefly in early September and then heading back up the road, would be happy to transport if logistics suit.
  17. 1 point
    It gets a smear of bearing grease whenever I’ve done mine, along with everything else that moves in there.
  18. 1 point
    I use copper grease. It has always worked so far, but there may be better alternatives. I thought the copper would continue to act as a lubricant and rust inhibitor after the grease died out, hence not using moly. Graphite grease should do the same.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    I've done this, twice. Take floor and tunnel out. Remove top cover of gearbox and remove all selectors/forks. They just wiggle out. Be careful you don't loose the detent ball bearings. You will need long nose pliers and some dental floss (!). The 3rd/4th synchro is visible and the new springs can be fed in using pliers. Tie dental floss round each spring and attach the other end outside the gearbox. This saves the tedium of fishing them out through the bottom of the box when you inevitably drop them! IIRC its easier to have the syncro in neutral, slide one end of the spring in and then flick the hub along to get the other end in. The first spring is easier than the last. 🙄 Cut the dental floss when the spring is in place. You will need plenty of patience, but if you are lucky, it will actually take longer to get the floor out and the selector forks out. Use grease to stick the detent balls in place when you fit the top cover. The springs seem to last a lot longer if you make slow changes 3 to 4 and back, pausing in neutral (can keep clutch depressed) before going into the other gear. Its probably quick shifts that fracture the springs.
  21. 1 point
    If you dig through the websites Border Holdings is then affiliated to the ADS quote "ADS is the Premier Trade Organisation for companies in the UK Aerospace, Defence, Security and Space sectors. ADS Group Limited registered address is Salamanca Square, 9 Albert Embankment, London, SE1 7SP and is registered in England no. 7016635" Doesn't fill you with so much confidence. I was sifting through and noted that Britpart hold ISO 9001 issued by Lloyds Register of all people. I've been perusing 9001 as I'm not overly familiar with the Regulation, I guess a few things clocked when I saw the scale of the operation, grips from an enthusiasts group like us is nothing compared to the big picture Britpart is living. - I have to say I was not overly surprised of certain details when I checked up on the board of directors, they have some quite strong links to far east. - kind of reflects where a large portion of the Britpart product catalogue appears from i should imagine.
  22. 1 point
    I totally get the ramp thing - nice air system BTW - but before starting to cut up the chassis etc, have you considered converting th tail lift ? We had a client with the same issues and he modified a Dhollandia lift into a 3,5 mtr. pair of ramps and that took a 100" racer OK... Just a thought..
  23. 1 point
    Love the cars ! From the days when there was automotive styling 😊 Mo
  24. 1 point
    New thread in tools and fabrication section? "Ross gets his skates on!"
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Thanks Lo-fi - nuisance but better to know now. Replacement to be sought. Many thanks.
  27. 1 point
    Its just cold rolled blocks very carefully marked up, drilled, tapped and held together with high tensile bolts. The bottom die got drilled through, then the middle section milled out exposing part of the hole. A piece of rod fills the space, leaving about a third of it exposed to create the shape in the part. The top die has a corresponding semi circular groove milled in it.
  28. 1 point
    I think they look better than 8 spokes would - it’s looking good.
  29. 1 point
    The Halfords "Advanced" black chests, I've had mine for probably close to 8yrs and they're still going strong.
  30. 1 point
    I'm with mike. Adjust the fibreglass to fit properly. It will make it a proper job rather than a hack.
  31. 1 point
    Just replacing a lift pump in a TDI and found the replacement one from OEM was 3mm too long (60mm vs 57mm). As a result the only way to fit the pump was to have tension on the lever from the start thus limiting its action. I suspect the finger primer effectiveness would also be impacted as it operates through the bottom half of the lever's action. Trying to bend the thing would not be a good idea even with heat but I'm hoping the spacer would fix the issue. Am now looking to machine up a spacer as getting one of these from the UK to OZ is over 2 weeks lead time, but if they had been readily available I would have jumped in for sure..
  32. 1 point
    Or have them do a good job, get them back in one piece, and f**k the source and cost of their kit.
  33. 1 point
    For better accuracy you could go for actually calibrated industrial stuff but it gets spendy, this is the cheapest calibrated gauge RS sell that looks even close to suitable, claims +/-1.6% accuracy: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/analogue-positive-pressure-gauges/0176208/
  34. 1 point
    Thanks. I discovered the part in the bottom gasket set with that number.
  35. 1 point
    Quick, fix the spare one before the next thing goes wrong!
  36. 1 point
    Only person I've known do alternator bearings is Daan, and that alternator then failed in very short order on the way to a ferry
  37. 1 point
    i just searched companies house for a landrover garage that had recently gone bust and errrm, invented a receipt from them
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Steve, that's a great suggestion. I'll make some calls tomorrow and update the thread as things progress. Yep, trying to do it all properly. Enough cowboy parts around in the Land Rover world, so actual quality is a unique selling point. SimonR is a bit of an inspiration. I'll be very happy if I can be half as successful! Some bits I've been working on, if anyone is interested:
  39. 1 point
    Started refurbing the springs separated them first cleaned them up undercoated painted and finally back together regards Stephen
  40. 1 point
    Curious as to how much it costs to get 250+hp out of a Td5 compared to just doing an engine swap
  41. 1 point
    I had a cheap small one, similar experience to qwakers - it flattened the battery! By contrast our ambulance has 2x 200W panels and they produce a steady 4A each (~50W) on a sunny day (direct sunlight) which keeps up with the fridge nicely. That said, we leave the ambulance parked for months at a time in a covered barn with the batteries & solar disconnected and it's never failed to start, much to TSD's annoyance
  42. 1 point
    Have to say, coolnvintage do nice builds and nice photographing, but the cars are nothing particularly special: from what I saw, they all have the original engine and gearbox, just changed springs, shocks and wheels (I am not a fan of the black wolf wheels with wheel spacers, but I am probably alone in this), and up cycled the interior. They have a nice finish, but nothing to me that would warrant the 6 figure price on them. Daan
  43. 1 point
    Have to rename him onebigshed!
  44. 1 point
    Hi there... You don't say why you want to look at this.. Do you have a specific problem or just curious? If you are looking to check the timing on your TD5 engine, you will need timing pins (One for the flywheel - Fitted through the bellhousing and one that is fitted once the rocker cover is removed.) Timing pins like these.... Timing chains rarely wear on a TD5 as they are designed in such a way that it takes something like 26 revolutions for them to get back to their start position. You turn the engine and when the gap in the flywheel lines up with the hole in the bellhousing, screw in the bottom pin. Up top you will need to remove the acoustic cover (3 X 13 mm) and then the MAF to turbo pipework, including the pipe from the rocker cover. The rocker cover has 13 X 8 mm bolts. You will need a new rocker cover gasket ! (LVP000020) Once this is all off.. You will see the top of the timing chain at the front of the engine. Just behind it in the head is a little slot for the second timing pin. If it won't drop in, your timing is out. To adjust the timing you need to go in a little deeper. If you need to adjust, you need to remove the fan cover and viscous fan etc. You need to set the top pin first... So, remove to bottom one and turn the engine slowly unto the top pin drops in.... (if you are lucky, two bright links will be at the top of the timing chain.... Don't worry if they aren't... They may be several rotations off being at the top) There is a circular black plastic cover on the front of the cylinder head... Usually the cause of leaks... (Evidence below) When removed you may have a picture looking like this.... Top pin inserted, chain gear showing timing mark (Maybe two bright links), and the three bolts the hold the timing chain to the camshaft. You need to loosen these three bolts a tad..... Then get back under and rotate the engine the small amount needed (Hopefully small amount) to be able to screw the bottom pin in.. With both pins now inserted the engine timing is correct. Tighten one of the three bolts in the cam. Then remove the remaining two... Clean them thoroughly and apply a little loctite... Replace the two and tighten. Then remove the last one, clean and loctite etc. You should now be safe to remove both pins. Either fit a new front round black panel or clean really well and seal with good temperature tolerant sealant. While you are in there it's wise to replace the injector loom if it's not been done for a few years. (AMR6103) Loads of video's etc. online to help you there.... (Video that includes changing injector harness) Clean rocker cover and fit new gasket. It pays to add two small spots of sealant at the back where the semi-circular part lands on the head as those little corner sections that cup around the cam tend to leak. Tighten down all 13 bolts. Refit fan, fan cover, breather tube to top of engine and all the pipework you removed.... From airbox to turbo. Refit the acoustic cover. Fingers crossed, it will start..... (Just make sure you've removed the bottom pin !!)
  45. 1 point
    Yeah I must get round to sorting something to loop the rope round lower down. It is readable from speed camera hight but I'm not sure anpr can read a Q plate anyway. Mike
  46. 1 point
    Subscribed. Looking forward to seeing updates Daan. TBH I wish I'd never sold my last MB.
  47. 1 point
    Final installation with alternator in place. PAS Belt ETC5815 (Dayco 13A0725C) was too short so I used NAPA belt 7280 which is a narrower belt and works just fine. The shiny coating is Rust Check undercoating as this all will get muddy soon. I'll take the drop arm from the old steering box to have as a spare. Cheers, Colin
  48. 1 point
    Coming out of the closet.... We have a milk float.... White Nissan Leaf 30Kw (Black Edition...) I commute 24 miles each way to work and don’t drive it for economy... I charge up daily in work and only charge it home if I need to. (Effectively free fuel...) Real world range travelling within the speed limits is up to 100 miles . (Further at 50 mph than you get at a constant 70 mph as you would expect) It really accelerates fast and will typically keep with or beat the average 2.0 eurobox to 70..... (Around 8 seconds 0 - 60) Harvesting on deceleration, as mentioned above, slows the car down quite a lot but doesn’t put the brake lights on... I’m very wary that I slow down a lot faster than other drivers might expect. At motorway services using a 50 amp DC charger I can get an 80% charge in 45 minutes... Time for a bio break and a coffee.... The infrastructure is unreliable at present. On the occasions I’ve needed to charge at motorway services, one of the chargers has not been working. Using the Milk Float for my commute saves me money. I pay a monthly lease and insure it. Pretty much no servicing... Tyres will wear but hoping to get 20k from the front and more from the back.... The fuel I’m not using in the 90, the lack of servicing of the 90 and reduced insurance annually due to lower mileage is covering the cost of the Milk Float based on 12k miles per year commute. I’ve only done a few long journeys so far, but we didn’t get the car for long journeys in reality, so not really worried about the weaknesses in the infrastructure at present. The current estimates are that the current infrastructure (Not sure if it was also capacity) in the UK National Grid could sustain 15 million EV’s now. I’m sure there were some caveats there to... Charging off-peak overnight etc. There are less than 250k EV’s on the roads at present. If you were to consider a Bolinger for a farm vehicle, the capacity would be more than enough for average daily use. It would probably be ok for the Chelsea Taxi role too, but as soon as you use it for longer journeys, you have to plan your routes, plan stops, build in charge time etc. When EV’s have a real world range of 350 miles with a charge time under 30 minutes and an infrastructure similar to the current fuel network they will be come a real consideration for a lot of people.
  49. 1 point
    With my business hat on rather than my "own car" hat, we only use super pro bushes on our vehicle builds unless there is no option (rare since they can usually adapt something if there is nothing in their catalogue) they are a great outfit to work with. Their md (who is Australian and happened to be over here on business) visited us in person when we became stockists, proper company!
  50. 1 point
    Got some bushes installed, thanks Superpro UK! https://www.superproeurope.com/


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