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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    All, Final update. It's an 11J engine. Three of the four Glo Plugs were burnt out. Replaced and starts like a dream! Thanks for all your help.
  2. 2 points
    As a counter - TC can prevent wheel slip on low traction surfaces and whilst turning, which lockers can't do and in fact make worse. If you turn with lockers you by definition must break traction to one wheel, and that makes things worse on surfaces like ice or wet grass. I remember Jez saying the LT230 actually let them drive open-diffed across swamp without tearing the surface whereas people running Jeeps etc. (with a locked transfer case) were tearing the surface when they tried to turn and dropping wheels through the very thin crust into the world of pain below. You also have to remember that most people don't read the manual, don't do diving courses, etc. and WILL claim under warranty of something explodes, so TC is way more idiot-proof and user-friendly than lockers and will perform better in 99% of situations the average customer will find themselves in. Don't get me wrong, I really like having lockers but that's because I care enough to understand how they work, when to use them, and when to leave them off. But I'd also quite fancy having an HDC button in my truck that gets me from the top to the bottom in a straight line at a sensible speed with no drama.
  3. 2 points
    Why? Defenders are neither unreliable nor unsafe?
  4. 2 points
    People commenting that they don't want to buy something that may be unreliable and unsafe on a Defender forum is very funny.
  5. 2 points
    Oh I'm sure the Chinese ones are a perfect copy of the Eberspacher and have all the same safety features... but a cheap knock-off of a safety critical item like a seatbelt or airbag would make me think twice for the same reason. While I'm sure Ebers have quite a markup, I'm also sure the Chinese ones have to have saved money somewhere 'cos you can't sell a £1500 heater for £150 without having done something differently.
  6. 2 points
    Regarding wattage, you’re on shaky ground legally by increasing that. Many do it I am sure but 60/55 is the standard. Any H4 bulb will die if it’s dunked I’m afraid. Biggest single improvement can be had by fitting a relay loom to take the feed direct from the alternator to the bulbs. Ensures they get full voltage and also takes the load of the switch. Not expensive to make yourself, or buy a ready-made one. I have a Landreizger one which is very good. After that, decent quality bulbs and clean headlamp units does the rest. High-output bulbs like the Nightbreakers give impressive light levels but the bulb life is reduced significantly. I got through three sets in one winter! I do a lot of miles in the dark (c. 15,000 p.a.) on properly dark roads, and I’ve found that a set of decent branded standard 55/60 bulbs fitted into clean standard Wipac headlamp units and powered through a relay loom gives me more than enough light.
  7. 1 point
    Just some pictures from summer 2018 from the west coast of ireland.
  8. 1 point
    Pre Christmas treat as figured Santa would not being these
  9. 1 point
    Don’t qorry you lot haven’t scared me off I am mid chassi change, I want to get a hydraulic steering assist like the Gwyn Lewis kit but he doesn’t know when the new batch will be in stock.
  10. 1 point
    I am but almost everything has to go through the books and that's alot of pennies. Every time i drive in the yard the main secretary comes out rubbing her hands. She tries to make a joke of it when she says "We'll soon be charging you by the hour for all this advice you know these are trained mechanics and we are busy" The lads just say.."Come back after 4 Dave when Cruella's gone. Which is fair enough, it is a business afterall but i'm also sure she wouldn't mind a box of chocolates at xmas as a way of saying "Thank You" The lads didn't mind when i bought them a beer a few months ago.
  11. 1 point
    It's fine driving on just the rear axle as the chain drive is direct - only the front drive goes through the centre diff/viscous unit.
  12. 1 point
    Yes, there is a group, but no, they mostly seem to congratulate themselves on their thriftiness while asking where to get instructions, missing parts, replacements for cracked cases and non-functioning parts and how to repair malfunctioning units. They all fail to see the connection between them all buying cheap, illegal copies and them all having major problems. They also don't seem to consider the risks once they get the heaters running, either fire or fume derived. 🙄 I was a member for a while, trying to find out if these Chinese units were viable, but the answer was quick and resounding. Do yourself a favour and get a Planar unit if you don't want to pay Eberspacher or Webasto prices; these three all have good reputations for reliability and safety. Red 90 may be quite right that 5kW is necessary for his use, but Canada is a mite colder than most of us contend with in winter. The vast majority in the camper groups I frequent all say the 2kW unit is more than enough and far less prone to coking as it can be run on a high setting more than the 5kW types.
  13. 1 point
    Must admit, I'd prefer a Haldex/intelligent-traction-control system over lockable diffs: after all, a computer can apportion torque to different wheels and adjust the balance tens of times a second as conditions change, something that brute-force difflocks can never manage. A friend of mine says that "Difflocks are invariably engaged when it's many ohnomilliseconds too late" I know which I'd rather trust when towing a big heavy trailer on wet/icy motorways ! For me the big issus about a "New Defender" are what powerplant it comes with and what UK tax-class it fits into. I don't want a Diesel, because Diesel's going to get murdered over the next couple of decades on account of its particulate emissions (some cities are already banning Diesel cars when air quality's bad) I want to be able to register it as a 'commercial' not a car, which means I don't get stung for ridiculous Vehicle Excise Duty and the stupid "first four years crazy higher tax because you bought a nice car costing more than £40,000" penalty. [Also, I don't have to pay VAT on a newly-registered commercial vehicle]. For me, economic considerations are just as important as 'roadability' - and I suspect this applies to the majority of prospective "New Defender" purchasers too!
  14. 1 point
    But they do end up sub optimal a lot quicker than other marques.
  15. 1 point
    Land Rover brakes are all good if correctly maintained. It is a myth that their steering and braking are vague, heavy or sloppy as standard.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I'd agree with Retro and Ralph, nothing uber special needed but I've been running Wipac crystals for 5 years now, and I've drilled a wee hole in the bottom of the reflector for the times when they've got dunked, you just need to remember to turn the lights off and give them chance to cool down before they get wet, I use a silicone conductive greese on the contacts which seems to keep them happy. - I also made up a new headlight loom when I did my rebuild, so I get the most out the standard set-up. The attached image was when I took a bit of water over the bonnet and forgot to turn the lamps off... once I drained the water out and gave the lense a wipe they've been fine ever since.
  18. 1 point
    Not meant to be harsh so sorry. But it is an excellent idea and a real shame it doesn't cover all the Land Rover vehicles
  19. 1 point
    Well yes - but I'm fairly sure I'll be sleeping better thinking "I've got a heater designed by adults and TUV approved" than "at least the CO/fire alarm should wake me up if the cheap heater tries to kill me" It's like buying cheap parts - some places it doesn't matter so much, but when you're stamping on the brake pedal and praying you don't want to be thinking "at least I saved £5 on these brake pads!" as you hurtle towards the proverbial bus-load of nuns and kittens.
  20. 1 point
    Well, I've found this topic : https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/84217-Puma-Glow-Plug-Error-Code I checked the 60AMP fuse were the glow plugs are connected to (according to that topic) and .. it is blown! I also checked the "Connector holder" in the engine bay that houses the red wire connection to the glow plugs, and it's also loose like in that topic. The connector once did short circuit with the steel diesel fuel line because I can see small 'burn' marks on both of them, so that shot the fuse I guess. That would mean that no power is going to the glow plugs right now.. Weird that the glow icon in the dash behaves normal? Doesn't it check the temperature? Or is just time based? I'm going to secure the connector holder and install a new 60amp fuse and see what gives. Can I just go into an automotive store and ask for a 60amp fuse or does it need to be a LR one?
  21. 1 point
    Interested to see how a Chinese copy of "small fire in a box" comes out. I'd be tempted as a quick-defrost / use-when-driving solution as you can always reach for the fire extinguisher, but I think for the "leave it running while you sleep" version in a camper I'd take a 2nd hand Eberspacher or Webasto over a Chinese knock-off.
  22. 1 point
    ive got a 2kw in a 110csw and its more than enough. had a 5kw eberspacher and it kept sooting up as never really ran on high power for long enough
  23. 1 point
    I think Britpart sell head gaskets in packs of ten.
  24. 1 point
    Britcar is my default. Sometimes I'll shop around, Land Rover Workshop is sometimes useful to search all the usual suppliers. But usually, Britcar offers me the choice between genuine, OEM or other.
  25. 1 point
    That's a 13-way male Econoseal connector. First thing you have to do is remove the terminal lock (the Yellow plastic bit) - The terminal has no locking tab - With the terminal lock removed, you need to lift the connector housing's terminal retainer (tang) from above the terminal you want to release. It looks like this on a female housing - This animated cross-section shows what you are trying to achieve - There are special tools to do this - but, a safety pin works just as well. .


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