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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/10/2020 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    This is my valentines card off my good lady So to modify a couple of Landrover statements . The best wife x far and One wife love it regards Stephen
  2. 4 points
    So we've been getting a new plate conveyor installed at work to assist with this the mezzanine floor was covered in about 8 sheets of 8x4 1.5 mm thick steel sheet spoke to project manager as to what they were doing with sheet when they finished just gonna scrap it , can I have it the answer was yes so the picture below is two of the sheets with the rest being flat and on a pallet ready to pick up just need to find room to store it happy days regards Stephen
  3. 4 points
    As the 109 is now 40 years old it's technically MOT and tax exempt... except that the guidance, such as it is, says: So, looking at the 109 most reasonable people would say it's been very substantially changed, but reading on... OK, so the replacement chassis is no problem. Well the suspension is of the same type/method and uses original spring mounts, so I guess suspension is OK? No mention of axles at all so I guess I'm free on that one... I could bolt LR axles back on with no changes. Steering is PAS, quite different than Series - that's a change then! Or is it... So, axles & running gear (which includes steering under their criteria) are OK as long as you're improving efficiency, safety, or green-ness... and the PAS definitely improves safety so I guess that passes. Soooo... going from 2.6 litre straight 6 to 4.6 litre V8 feels substantial, but back to the acceptable changes list... Original type parts are no longer available - well you try finding a good straight six reasonably available changes of a type which can be demonstrated to have been made when vehicles of the type were in production or within 10 years of the end of production - LR put the Rover V8 into leaf-sprung 109's (Stage 1 V8) and the 110 (which LR now count everything from 1948 onwards as a "Defender"), and alternative cubic capacities are acceptable, so I guess we can say we're good on that one, officer! Improve efficiency, safety, environmental performance - the 4.6 is more efficient and greener than the old six by a long shot so big win there, just me & Greta Thunberg fighting that good fight The detailed guidance PDF you can download is basically a copy-paste of their highly informative web page, and if you're got questions you end up down the rabbit hole at https://www.fbhvc.co.uk/mot-exemption-information which gives you a list of clubs to contact - ending with nothing newer than the Series 2 club So, as I'm currently self-quarantined with Basingstoke Coronavirus I thought I'd make a nuisance of myself and give the DVLA a call... DVLA said "We don't know, we only do car tax, call the DVSA" OK, I called the DVSA, where a very bored lady read their website out loud to me mispronouncing monocoque spectacularly every time it came up ... when she'd finished, I asked if anyone could provide any guidance at all on substantial changes - she said "no, read the website"... So I asked if anyone there knew who enforced these things or adjudicated on the interpretations, she said "maybe try the DVLA" when I told her they're not interested she said "maybe VOSA?" (VOSA were replaced by the DVSA in 2014 ) So not really sure what to make of all this - I asked the nice lady what happens if I decide my vehicle isn't substantially altered and the police stop me and decide that it is, and I found out it's actually possible to shrug down a telephone Anyone had any luck in any of this - wondering if the local traffic plod or DfT might know or if I should take this as a sign that the authorities really don't care and can't be bothered and I should just declare the 109 to be historic and stop bothering them?
  4. 3 points
    Finally was able to collect it yesterday, a 240km drive each way in very stormy and wet weather 😁 got it pushed indoors and left as is. So after work today I'll try and get it running. Then, when I have life I'll go through it and ser just how bad the rust is πŸ™ˆ
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    There are some great pointers made already, i'll add a few more. Sound is directional until you hit lower frequencies and with engines, gearbox's, drivetrains, road noise and all sorts of other things, one type of sound deadening will struggle to eliminate all noise. You need to incorporate various types and understand it's usage. Stiffening panels is a good start. Using products like silent coat or dynamatt will help in this way but use it sparingly. Pictures of footwells or the underside of the bonnet plastered in the stuff is purely a gimmick for you to part with your cash. Any company doing this deserves avoidance. You want to stiffen the panel, so add 2-3 inch strips until the panel has a more ' dead ' sound rather than a tinny sound. Remember these products don't stop sound travelling through, they provide stiffness and thus help reduce flex and vibration which comes across as ' noise '. ( point to note, the product can provide a barrier to noise as they have mass, but it's tiny and would prove very expensive to use it to eliminate noise alone ) Foams like a closed cell foam help absorb it's effects but they work best when left exposed. If you cover up a foam then you reduce it's ability to soak up noise and here is where it becomes a little difficult to balance everything with foam and stiffening alone. The final part is Mass. Providing a mass that will help absorb sound is another way to quieten things down. Using dense rubber stuck to the panels underneath a layer of foam will help quite alot. I've used rubber mat's to drop the lower frequency ( bass from a speaker ) from travelling through walls etc. I would use a stiffener to the panel first, then a dense rubber mat and finally a closed cell foam on top. This work's in the cab area very well but it also highlights other problems like the seals around your doors as suddenely they are much more noticable. For the bonnet, i really wouldn't waste any money on it personally. The noise outside the vehicle is not going to change the noise you hear inside..the engine is sat in front of you with a thin piece of metal to stop the noise between you and it. I stripped out my dash and found land rover's idea of sound deadening laughable as it wasn't even covering the multitude of gromets and holes in the bulkhead and of the square meterage of bulkhead, about 40% was covered by their effort from the factory (2011 model ). Landy's were designed to be workhorses, they were never designed to be quiet inside but you can get them to a decent noise level in the cab with some simple practices. A few links to help; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BSBMFBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015RI1GJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. 2 points
    Well , it’s all back together and running fine , heater gets up to toasty pretty quick and stays nice and warm and no leaks so it would appear it’s fixed phew 😁.
  8. 2 points
    Well I gave in and visited the post office, so the 109 is now officially an historic vehicle
  9. 2 points
    Yeah, I think maybe 40 years is a bit too recent to be fair, at that age cars are fairly modern. But I can see why they wouldn't want to have to develop test procedures or do training for testers on leaf spring friction dampers, floor mounted dip switches, gas headlamps, wooden wheels, ignition and mixture controls on the steering wheel, screen washers you pump up etc - I took a '64 mini for test last year and the guy didn't know where to start.
  10. 2 points
    Something that's often forgotten when comparing EVs to gas powered vehicles is that in an EV you always leave home with a full tank - even if that tank is smaller than a gas vehicle. Every time I leave home in the morning I can drive 230km. I have needed to use a public charger three times in the last 6 months when taking longer road trips. Compare that to a gas vehicle when I'd have to stop at least once/week. Mileage is identical. In the times I have used a public charger 20 minutes is plenty. Typically identical to what I need to recharge on a road trip - enough time for a bathroom break, coffee and a leg stretch. It's hard to make the comparison when you haven't lived with an EV for a while. I feel that the quoted negatives of EVs are all perceived negatives and generally do not reflect the reality. Now I've lived with one for a bit I will never go back to gas powered.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    I'd say it will still be worth it as the galvanisers will be happier with what you're bringing - and happy folks are more willing to help you out with any bits you've missed etc. If you drag a big pile of crusty junk in they're not going to be well disposed toward you!
  13. 2 points
    Kettles on biscuits out regards Stephen
  14. 2 points
    This popped across my YouTube feed the other day, illustrates a few of the issues; The relevant parts/facts are that petrol has 13x the energy density by volume, and 50x the energy density by mass - if you could make even a 50-mile battery the size and form-factor of (say) a jerry can, and as easy to swap, EV's would be awesome because you could easily slot a jerry can or two or three into almost any car design and swap batteries in seconds at the petrol station. By comparison...
  15. 2 points
    Yeah but that's a specific operation targeting anti-social behaviour using construction & use legislation to be able to stop/search vehicles and dissuade them from cruising, racing or whatever else they're involved in in that particular area. Other than that, the whole purpose of computerising the MoT system, road tax, and integration with the insurance database, speed cameras, Dart charge, congestion charge, LEZ was to remove that whole layer from police and magistrates courts, have automated payment and issue fines via an automated system. Police will have no interest in stopping an old land rover and sleuthing through something like this as no offence has been committed if the car has an MoT.
  16. 2 points
    Just MOT it. If it is good it will pass, if it's not, well at least you know. This removes all arguments.
  17. 2 points
    I've taken Thursday/Friday off work to get my 19J back together and running again. Then I'm back at the start of 2020 project wise.
  18. 2 points
    Ah you lucky, lucky B******;s...….. What i'd give for the pleasant aroma of diesel and burnt EP90 oil with an aromatic hint of ATF!?!...…... But NO!!!...… I have the expensive Au de toilet HORSE PEE with the strong after tones of intense HORSE POO!!! Thanks to the wife and her four legged friend!?! Many a time I've had to sneak out to the shed just to snort a couple of lines of WD40
  19. 1 point
    I picked one up on Thursday and have given it a try. Very pleased with it. I wasn't sure if my small and old compressor would work with it. It is a 20 plus year old Clarke Jumbo which has no air tank, only 0.65hp and 3.5 CFM. The plasma cutter has a 'restricted' (narrow bore) compressor Quick Connector so you can't get much air through it anyway. It works fine. So far I have tried it on 3mm Ali, 1mm steel, 2mm steel and 7 mm steel. Works great. According to the spec's, it should be able to cut 9mm steel. Hope this helps, Regards, Diff.
  20. 1 point
    JSCS Ashchurch is/or was the central vehicle depot near Gloucester, FD AMB is Field Ambulance units, RAMC is Royal Army medical corps, CSS-BN is Combat services support battalion. I can't find a explanation of CSAT.
  21. 1 point
    Nearly done! Pile of bits to do is much smaller now
  22. 1 point
    Thanks for the input gents, Ill have a talk with my mechanic and see what he says about slotting in a Turner engine.
  23. 1 point
    ATF is a 75W80. 75W80 is just a measurement of the oil's viscosity, not the "type" of oil. If you get a "manual transmission fluid" with a 75W80, that will be fine.
  24. 1 point
    LT77 use ATF only, 75W/80 not the approved fluid.
  25. 1 point
    Nice one Monkie , I bet you are happy - they are a sweet running engine when in good condition cheers Steve b
  26. 1 point
    It lives! It must have been rough before as the thing that I noticed most was how sweet it was ticking over.
  27. 1 point
    .... And just like land rovers, never attempt to add up what you have spent on them over the years
  28. 1 point
    Found a reference on line, I've also seen an article in a mag.
  29. 1 point
    And just like a Land Rover the maintenance and up keep is endless and costly, but you do what you gotta do to keep it running!?! As for optional extras and enhancements, each to his own!?! πŸ˜‚ Well done Steve you should be proud!.... Oh and maybe spoil her, you know, a fresh oil change perhaps!?! And get the wife some chocolates too!
  30. 1 point
    Another one for the genuine stuff, I've had a 2nd hand 300tdi one (i think) installed for the best part of 8 years I guess and its great. Sound proofing is all about increments, people look for a" cure all" sound solution, but its not as simple as that. you have to work at it and chip away, cover any bit of exposed panel, bung up holes, put bits of carpet it, screw everything down as it should be (or add more!) wrap stuff in soft material type tape... list goes on, noise on a landy comes from various places, inc engine drive train, road noise from tyres etc.I got to a point where you could actually hear where the "holes" in the sound deading where, I've worked really hard to combat the sound issues in my truck and I'm pretty chuffed with how it now is.
  31. 1 point
    I have one in the back of the car as well.... Along with a cheap 10m air hose reel, socket set, mixed washers, etc etc etc
  32. 1 point
    Tig would be ideal but years ago before I had tig I repaired with a oversize patch pop riveted onto good stuff worked for me at the time regards Stephen
  33. 1 point
    Got all that stuff, Inc laptop in the workshop. I'm really looking forward to this.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    If you had a gantry you could have secured it with that ... ..I'll get my coat Great work Stephen , I do enjoy your projects . cheers Steve b
  37. 1 point
    Sam It is definately a Petrol and will not be from any vehicle newer than 2001 as I have only broken petrols and of those 3 were Gems and two were Thor
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    They should not do any of those things.
  40. 1 point
    I'm sure that if you took a couple of brave pills you could chop up your nice late style doors, and modify them into what you describe You could keep your push button handles and central locking
  41. 1 point
    Keep at it JU.....it will suddenly "click" and you will be a happy clappy!. TIG is one the of the things I am chuffed to bits to have learnt to do.....its amazingly relaxing too ( until it goes wrong:rofl: ) and really is something you'll love to do. Sadly j dont even bother with the MIG now if I can TIG it !.... When I passed mybknsteuctor ....who was brilliant and a hard as nails northerner with evil sense of humour...handed me my certificates and said " here you go Nige .....like when you passed your driving test ....you have a vague clue ....now yoj learn from now on ....and every weld is a chance to improve ". Thouthtvhe was just being a **** at the time...he wasnt... now welded up.today pegged casing 644.....and I have casing 211 on the bench for the rebuild ...I'll show picture of 644...not 211 !. The difference of practise is everything and you will go all nerdy over welding from now on . Keep at it 101% worth the pain and effort.....and anyone thinking of it ....it IS hard but absolutely do learn ....changes your views on welding forever and gives you the ability to bore people senseless checking things like welds on railings at the beach commenting on the undercut...and having a wife look at you sigh and shake head in utter disbelief:D Here you go casing 644 cast steel pre heated and tigged with mild S275 with specula tungsten and dissimilar rods and post heated and cooled... Love tig !!
  42. 1 point
    Series 3 Stage One Ute, got a ways to go though πŸ˜•
  43. 1 point
    I shall do my best Sir 😊 Haha but noone knows which end comes first πŸ˜‚
  44. 1 point
    You don’t need to trim them down, but you will have gaps down the side of the card around the door latch area.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I bought one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-32V-12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Bus-Bar-Car-Boat-W-Cover-Marine-FuseBox-Holder/264325889467?_trkparms=aid%3D888008%26algo%3DDISC.CARDS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131227121020%26meid%3D1b4caf2107d543f5bf73c69a53544993%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D401772423890%26itm%3D264325889467%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982 and plan to do something like this
  47. 1 point
    Probably the biggest improvement to my welding came when I added a +1.5 cheater lens to my mask. Amazing what you can do when you can actually see it!!! Sean
  48. 1 point
    Well I accelerated all the 2020 jobs into nov/dec 2019... so I'm planning on doing some driving rather than spannering (quite a novel thought) 🀩 will be relocating to near Salisbury... and people tell me theres a bit of offroading to be had around there... πŸ˜‚
  49. 1 point
    Calais...... LR # 2
  50. 1 point
    As it's a Landrover I should say your best bet is to drive with a waterproof coat on and pretend it isn't happening. It'll save you loads of stress and wasted effort long term Julian.

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